Better Buying Index Report Spring 2018 - Purchasing Practices Performance in Apparel, Footwear, and Household Textile Supply Chains

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Better Buying Index Report Spring 2018 - Purchasing Practices Performance in Apparel, Footwear, and Household Textile Supply Chains
Better Buying
Index Report Spring 2018
Purchasing Practices Performance in Apparel,
Footwear, and Household Textile Supply Chains
ABOUT BETTER BUYING
Better Buying is an initiative that supports industry-wide transformation of
buyer purchasing practices to ensure business relationships allow buyers and
suppliers to achieve their financial, environmental, and social sustainability
goals. Anonymous supplier ratings of buyer purchasing practices are
aggregated, scored, and made available to the buyers and suppliers. Ratings
are updated every six months and eventually made public along with buyer
comments, and examples of best and improving practices. Detailed analytic
reports, along with key recommendations, are made available to buyers who
have been rated a minimum of five times. Co-founded by Marsha Dickson,
Ph.D., and Doug Cahn, Better Buying was launched during an 18-month
feasibility study funded by C&A Foundation in 2015 and is currently a project of
the University of Delaware. For more information, visit: www.betterbuying.org.

Report written by Dr. Marsha A. Dickson, co-founder of Better Buying,
with support from Dipti Bhatt, research associate and Doug Cahn, co-founder.

Dickson, Marsha A. (2018). Better Buying Purchasing Practices Index, Spring
2018: Purchasing Practices Performance in Apparel, Footwear, and Household
Textile Supply Chains. Available at www.betterbuying.org.

Copyright 2018, Better Buying. All rights reserved.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
Better Buying appreciates the support of its primary funder,
C&A Foundation, and secondary funder, Humanity United.

The opinions expressed are those of Better Buying and do not
necessarily reflect the views of its funders.

Better Buying Index Report Spring 2018
Contents

Executive Summary		                   2

1. Introduction                      4
2. Methodology                       6

                                                                                       CONTENTS
3. Scores and Ratings                14
4. Key Findings                      16
5. Conclusions and Recommendations   32

Appendix                             38

                                          Better Buying Index Report Spring 2018   1
Executive Summary

    In recent years, purchasing practices and their impact on suppliers’ ability
    to provide decent working conditions have come under increasing scrutiny
    worldwide. In recognition of the need for buyers such as brands and
    retailers to improve purchasing practices, Better Buying has been created to
    support the transformation of buyer-supplier relationships so that all parties
    can achieve their financial, social, and environmental sustainability goals.

    Better Buying has now launched             4. Sourcing and Order Placement:        7. C
                                                                                            SR Harmonization: measures
    a first-of-its-kind index – Better             measures if buyers are rewarded         the internal alignment of buyer
    Buying Purchasing Practices Index              for compliance with their codes of      companies on corporate social
    (BBPPI) – using data submitted                 conduct and month-to-month order        compliance goals and their
    anonymously by suppliers through               fluctuation.                            contribution to reducing industry-
    its online platform to rate the            5. P
                                                   ayment and Terms: measures if          wide audit duplication.
    purchasing practices of buyers                suppliers are paid on time and at
    against seven key categories:                 the price agreed in the original      This report summarizes the results
                                                  contract.                             and key findings from the first cycle
    1. P
        lanning and Forecasting:                                                       of BBPPI data collection carried out
                                               6. M
                                                   anagement of the Purchasing
       measures the extent to which                                                     in Q4 2017. It includes ratings from
                                                  Process: measures the amount
       buyers include suppliers in                                                      156 suppliers across 24 countries
                                                  of time offered to the supplier for
       production plans, as well as                                                     and measures the performance
                                                  the development and production
       the accuracy of planned orders                                                   of 65 buyers within the apparel,
                                                  phases in which buyers are required
       compared with orders actually                                                    footwear, and household textiles
                                                  to complete key actions outlined in
       placed.                                                                          industries globally.
                                                  a Time and Action Calendar.
    2. D
        esign and Development:
       measures the delay or inaccuracy                                                 Buyers have been awarded scores
       of technical and production                                                      using a 0 to 5-star rating system.
       details provided by buyers to
       suppliers. This category also
                                                 BETTER BUYING SCORE                          AVERAGE OF ALL SUBMITTED
       covers the frequency to which
                                                                                              RATINGS (N=218)
       suppliers receive orders for
       products they develop.                    Overall

    3. C
        ost and Cost Negotiation:               Planning and Forecasting
       measures if suppliers are                 Design and Development
       given enough funds to
       meet buyer expectations,                  Cost and Cost Negotiation
       including production costs and            Sourcing and Order Placement
       compensation for suppliers to
                                                 Payment and Terms
       meet buyer codes of conduct and
       legal requirements.                       Management of the Purchasing Process
                                                 CSR Harmonization

x
2   Better Buying Index Report 2017 Methodology
                               Spring 2018 Executive Summary
The scores reveal that while buyers     1. Current business practices are        • M
                                                                                      ulti-stakeholder initiatives
are performing well in some areas,           unsustainable and in order to           whose members have made
improvements are needed in others.           facilitate sustainable supply           commitments to responsible

                                                                                                                                  EXECUTIVE SUMMARY
The average overall score for buyers         chains, buyers must begin to:           purchasing practices and
in this cycle was 2.5 stars. The best   • Improve the predictability and            improving workplace conditions
performing category was Payment and        consistency of their business with        can use the BBPPI to measure
Terms with 4.5 stars, while the worst      suppliers.                                their performance across the
performing category was Sourcing                                                     seven categories of purchasing
                                        • Offer and maintain enough time
and Order Placement which received                                                   practices.
                                            for production.
an average of 0 stars.
                                        • Eliminate financial tactics that       3. The BBPPI is a practical tool for
In addition to presenting the overall       erode suppliers’ abilities to cover        improvement and will spur a ‘race
Better Buying scores, the report            the costs of business.                     to the top’ across all categories of
delves into the complexities of         • Support and incentivize                    buyers:
buyer-supplier relationships (page          sustainable business operations.       • A
                                                                                      ll apparel, footwear, and
14 onwards) across each category                                                     household textiles buyers can
by taking into account a number of      2. Industry-wide transformation             now use the BBPPI to review
factors such as geographic location         of buyer purchasing practices            their own practices and begin to
and Buyer Type.                             demands leadership:                      change their day-to-day practices,
                                        • W
                                           hile the BBPPI has created               so that performance in purchasing
The BBPPI provides an internationally     an opportunity for suppliers to            practices improves over time.
recognized framework for measuring        communicate their experiences,           • B
                                                                                      uyers from under-represented
purchasing practices, as well             more buyers are needed to                  types such as General Retail and
as an action agenda to promote            engage with the process by                 Department Stores, and their
labor standards and sustainable           inviting their suppliers to                peers within these types, such as
purchasing practices within supply        participate in upcoming rating             footwear or active wear buyers,
chains globally.                          cycles, so they can better                 should engage with Better Buying
                                          understand their purchasing                to gain actionable information as a
The recommendations of this               practices and identify areas of            basis for making their categories
report are therefore divided into         focus for improvement.                     stand out for best (rather than
three parts: first to reveal best and   • D
                                           epartment stores especially are          worst) practices.
worst practices and to emphasize          encouraged to engage with Better
the need for an internationally           Buying so that the BBPPI can
recognized index such as the BBPPI,       reflect the experiences of a more
second to highlight the importance        representative group of suppliers.
of stakeholder engagement with
                                        • S
                                           uppliers should submit ratings
the index, and third to identify
                                          rather than waiting for invitations
opportunities for buyers to improve
                                          from their buyers. By increasing
their ratings.
                                          the amount of ratings, Better
                                          Buying can improve accuracy,
                                          identify more trends, and provide
                                          a knowledge base from which
                                          improvements can be made.

                                                                  Better Buying Index Report Spring 2018 Executive Summary    3
1. Introduction

    Buyers, such as international brands and retailers,
    are increasingly concerned about the impact of
    their purchasing practices on suppliers’ ability
    to provide decent working conditions. Large and
    unpredictable order requests with tight timelines
    at the lowest possible cost are known to place
    significant hardships on suppliers, often resulting in
    substandard factory environmental and workplace
    performance. Poor practices can also prevent
    suppliers from running sustainable businesses and
    pose potential risks in supply chains. Therefore,
    improved purchasing practices not only have a
    positive impact on the workplace, but they also
    support buyers’ financial performance and help to
    maintain stable and responsive supply chains.

4   Better Buying Index Report Spring 2018 Introduction
Better Buying is an independent,                      other key stakeholders get up-to-                      reporting will allow stakeholders to
third-party initiative with a mission                 date information about purchasing                      track improvements in purchasing
to transform relationships between                    practices and how they are                             practices over time.
the suppliers responsible for                         changing—hopefully for the better—

                                                                                                                                                                 INTRODUCTION
manufacturing products and the                        over time.                                             The BBPPI is the first in a growing
companies that buy them, so                                                                                  suite of Better Buying indices
that all parties can achieve their                    This report summarises the results                     that provides performance data
financial, environmental, and                         and key findings from the first cycle                  and statistics measuring the
social sustainability goals. Better                   of BBPPI data collection carried                       performance of buyer companies on
Buying provides clear and relevant                    out in Q4 2017. It identifies best                     a range of business practices that
information, feedback, and analysis                   practices in purchasing and supply                     impact their financial, environmental,
to buyers about their purchasing                      chain processes and highlights                         and social sustainability goals, as
practices with the broader goal of                    those purchasing practices in need                     well as the goals of their business
accelerating improvements in supply                   of improvement. It is intended to                      partners. A second tool will be
chains globally. 1                                    broaden stakeholder understanding                      released soon. Over time, Better
                                                      of the most challenging day-to-                        Buying expects to expand its work
The first ever Better Buying                          day business practices faced                           deeper into supply chains and
Purchasing Practices Index (BBPPI)                    by suppliers working with buyer                        across multiple sectors, such as
measures the performance of 65                        companies to bring products to                         toys, electronics, and food and
buyer companies within the apparel,                   market. The findings gathered can                      beverages.
footwear, and household textiles                      be used by:
industries against seven categories                                                                          An independent external evaluation
of purchasing practices. The BBPPI                    • Professionals in corporate                          of Better Buying’s work by Keystone
uses data submitted anonymously                          social responsibility and labor                     Accountability stated:
by suppliers based on their                              compliance to identify how their
business experiences with specific                       own businesses are contributing                     “Better Buying could become the
customers.                                               to human rights violations.                         keystone species that supports
                                                      • Industry professionals focused                      an entire ecosystem of actors
All ratings are aggregated, turned                       on business operations and                          working together to improve buyer
into scores, and subsequently made                       profitability to manage their                       practices. Its ratings could become
available to the buyers being rated                      businesses more efficiently and                     the informational basis that is the
and the suppliers that submitted                         profitably.                                         flywheel that drives the entire buyer
the ratings. Ratings are regularly                                                                           practices improvement machine.”
                                                      • Investors, financial institutions,
updated by suppliers and are
                                                         insurers, and auditors who can use
eventually made public together
                                                         the findings to assess potential
with comments from buyers
                                                         supply chain risks, not only
about examples of best practice
                                                         reputational but material risks
and steps taken to improve their
                                                         associated with supply disruption.
practices. Suppliers, buyers, and
                                                      Regular cycles of data collection and

1
 Better Buying provides the opportunity for suppliers - as opposed to factories - to rate their buyer. Information pertaining to purchasing practices is
most often held in the corporate supplier office in direct contact with the buyer, and not at factory level. A supplier, therefore, is defined as a parent
company that owns one or more facilities or places orders in independently owned and operated factories on behalf of their clients, the brands and
retailers. It is understood that a factory may also be a supplier if it has direct contact with the buyer’s product creation teams and no other corporate
office intervenes in the buyer-supplier relationship.

                                                                                                 Better Buying Index Report Spring 2018 Introduction         5
2. Methodology

6   Better Buying Index Report Spring 2018 Methodology
HOW WAS BBPPI                           Better Buying takes a continuous        WHAT PURCHASING
CREATED?                                improvement approach, by improving      PRACTICES ARE RATED?
                                        and refining ratings, scorings, and
Better Buying identified the            data as more knowledge is acquired.     The BBPPI rates buyers against
purchasing practices that matter                                                seven different categories of

                                                                                                                               METHODOLOGY
most to suppliers. After initial        METHODOLODY                             purchasing practices:
desktop research, additional data       CHALLENGES
was sourced from:                                                               1.  Planning and Forecasting
                                        Refining the research questions         2. Design and Development
• Field research of critical buying    down (from hundreds to a few            3. Cost and Cost Negotiation
   practices in Hong Kong, China,       dozen) often involved excluding         4. Sourcing and Order Placement
   Bangladesh, Cambodia, and            questions that stakeholders would       5. Payment and Terms
   Vietnam.                             presumably expect to see in             6. Management of the Purchasing
                                        evaluating purchasing practices.            Process
• Input from additional stakeholders
                                        Care was taken to avoid duplicate       7. CSR Harmonization
   through 40+ formal consultations.
                                        impact assessment. For example,
• Supplier survey results which        a question about design changes         Suppliers are required to respond
   determined the availability of       to finalized styles or those already    to all questions to prevent them
   information and their willingness    in production was not included.         from rating buyers only in the areas
   to rate.                             This is because the key concerns        where performance needs to be
• A pilot study testing the ability    associated with this practice had       improved. This provides a robust
   to receive supplier ratings and      been addressed in questions             and fair evaluation of the business
   the value of the results for         relating to whether enough time         relationship buyers have with their
   distinguishing good and bad          was offered for production and if       suppliers.
   performance.                         the buyer was flexible in adjusting
                                        ship dates to maintain the necessary    HOW ARE THE DATA
A short and concise list of questions   production time.                        COLLECTED AND
was then drafted to address the
                                                                                VERIFIED?
suppliers’ most important concerns.     In addition, practices that the
                                        supplier could not directly observe     Data are collected on an online
The question and response               were excluded, for example,             platform built and hosted by Fair
categories were designed to be          problems stemming                       Factories Clearinghouse. High
objective and draw on business data     from interpersonal relationships        levels of hardware and software
suppliers already had or could make     within buyer companies. The             security, coupled with tightly defined
available. The response categories      supplier may be aware of these          operating procedures, protect the
of many questions can help to           issues, but due to the second-hand      data provided by suppliers.
distinguish improvements over time.     nature of the information are not
Questions with a more dichotomous       able to properly evaluate the impact
‘yes’ or ‘no’ response are combined     on their business.                      High levels of hardware
with extended response questions.
                                                                                and software security,
The proprietary scoring applied to
a single category of purchasing
                                                                                coupled with tightly defined
practices also allows Better Buying                                             operating procedures,
to track improvements over time.                                                protect the data provided
                                                                                by suppliers.

                                                                      Better Buying Index Report Spring 2018 Methodology   7
The BBPPI is supplier-centric               The proprietary scoring system is            HOW ARE THE DATA
    and focuses on empowering                   built into the data platform and when        ANALYZED AND STARS
    and amplifying their voices in              submitting the rating suppliers can          AWARDED?
    order to address the impact                 instantly see the stars earned by the
    of poor purchasing practices                buyer they have rated. Suppliers are         Better Buying uses a 0 to 100-point
    on supplier ability to achieve              encouraged to rate as many of their          scoring system to calculate overall
    financial, environmental, and social        buyers as possible.                          scores and scores for each category.
    sustainability goals. To obtain supplier                                                 After the Better Buying system
    participation, effort has gone into         Before using the submitted ratings,          scores each question and category
    approaching suppliers directly,             Better Buying carries out a data             of purchasing practices, a star
    without the intervention of buyers.         verification and cleaning process            ‘grading’ is applied to the scores as
    This has been facilitated through the       whereby documents provided by                follows (see Table 1).
    support of industry associations, key       the supplier to prove a business
                                                relationship are reviewed and the            Better Buying awards scores using a
    individuals in industry, word of mouth,
                                                plausibility of data is checked.             0 to 5-star rating system.
    and other approaches. Additionally,
    some buyers have engaged with us
    to invite their suppliers to participate.
    Supplier participation is completely          NUMERICAL SCORE                           STARS AWARDED
                                                                                            STARS AWARDED
    voluntary.                                    96-100 points
                                                  90-95 points
                                                  84-89 points
    The BBPPI is supplier-
    centric and focuses on                        78-83 points

    empowering and amplifying                     72-77 points
    their voices in order to                      66-71 points
    address the impact of poor                    60-65 points
    purchasing practices…
                                                  54-59 points
                                                  46-53 points
    Suppliers register on the Better
    Buying platform by creating a basic           37-45 points
    profile; they may designate up                36 or fewer points
    to four individuals to input data.
    Ratings for each buyer are created          Table 1. Stars and corresponding numerical scores
    separately. The supplier chooses
    to ‘create a new rating’, selects
    the company they are rating, and
    uploads a document to demonstrate
    a business relationship within the
    last six months. They then complete
    the questionnaire specific to their
    business relationships with that
    buyer.

8   Better Buying Index Report Spring 2018 Methodology
Better Buying uses the weighting
system outlined in Figure 1 to
determine the weight of each                                      WEIGHT IN OVERALL SCORE
purchasing practices category
in the overall score.

                                                                                                                                  METHODOLOGY
                                                       CSR Harmonization
                                                                                                  Planning and
After verification, Better Buying                                                                 Forecasting
downloads all approved ratings                                             10%
submitted during the rating cycle               Management of                         15%
                                                the Purchasing
and carries out additional analysis                                                                      Design and
                                                       Process    15%
of the aggregated data.                                                                      10%         Development

Basic descriptive statistical analysis
is conducted for the scores and                                   15%                      20%
                                                  Payment and
responses to each question.
                                                       Terms                                           Cost and Cost
Averages for the purchasing practice
                                                                             15%                       Negotiation
categories are based on scales
from 0 to 100. Smaller averages                             Sourcing and
reflect poorer purchasing practices                      Order Placement
while larger averages reflect better
purchasing practices. Standard
deviation (SD) reflects the variability                   Figure 1. Weight of seven categories of purchasing
                                                             practices to the overall Better Buying score
of scores around the averages and
gives an indication of the spread of
buyer performance in a category. A
larger SD indicates a wider range of
responses and scores.
                                          PARTICIPATION IN Q4                       A further 15 ratings of buyers whose
                                          2017 RATING CYCLE                         orders had been products other than
Analysis of variance (ANOVA) was                                                    apparel, footwear, and household
also used to test for differences         A total of 243 ratings were submitted     textiles were also omitted. These
on the basis of characteristics of        in the first cycle of BBPPI data          ratings have been withheld from this
the buyers rated and suppliers            collection carried out in Q4 2017.        benchmark report as they are out
submitting ratings, as well as simple                                               of scope, but have been analyzed
                                          Ten ratings were rejected during
linear regression examining the                                                     separately and made available to the
                                          the data verification and cleaning
relationship between measures.                                                      buyers.
                                          phase. Ratings were rejected when
                                          duplicates were submitted, the            Of the total 243 ratings submitted,
                                          supplier could not demonstrate a          218 were used in this benchmark
                                          current business relationship, or         report.
                                          incorrect data was supplied.

                                                                         Better Buying Index Report Spring 2018 Methodology   9
About the buyers that were rated
     A total of 65 buyers across the industry were rated (see Table 2). Individual buyer
     ratings are not included in this report but have been made available to the buyer
     companies in cases where minimum numbers of ratings were received.

       APPAREL, ACCESSORIES               APPAREL RETAIL                     DEPARTMENT STORES                   GENERAL RETAIL
       AND LUXURY GOODS                   (N=63)                             (N=9)                               (N=79)
       (N=67)
       360 Sweater Company                Abercrombie & Fitch                Debenhams Retail Plc                Sainsbury’s Supermarkets
                                                                                                                 Ltd.
       Armani                             American Eagle Outfitters          House of Fraser (Stores)            Target Corporation
                                                                             Ltd.
       Canada Pooch                       Benetton S.p.A                     J.C. Penney                         Tesco Stores Ltd.
       Dimensions                         Bonmarché Ltd.                     Kohl’s Deparment Stores, Inc.       The White Company (UK) Ltd.
       Fashion Pool GmbH                  Burberry Ltd.                      Macy’s, Inc.                        Walmart
       Fenix Group                        C&A                                Nordstrom, Inc.
       Hakro GmbH                         Charles Tyrwhitt Shirts Ltd.
       Hanes                              Destination Maternity
                                          Coorporation
       Helly Hansen AS                    Express
       Karen Millen Fashions Ltd.         Gap Inc.
       Kate Spade, LLC                    Hobbs Ltd.
       L.L. Bean, Inc.                    Inditex
       Levi Strauss & Co.                 J. Crew Group Inc.
       Mammut Sports Group AG             JP Boden & Co Ltd.
       Masai Clothing Company ApS         Mark’s Work Wearhouse Ltd.
       Mountain Equipment Co-Op           Peek & Cloppenburg KG
       New Balance International          Sportsgirl Pty Ltd.
       Ltd.
       No Ordinary Designer Label         The Cato Corporation
       Ltd.
       Pretty Green                       The Children’s Place
       PVH Corporation                    The Edinburgh Woollen Mill Ltd.
       Ralph Lauren Corporation           The Talbots Inc.
       Rapha Racing Ltd.                  Urban Outfitters
       Reiss Ltd.                         White Stuff
       Seasalt Ltd.
       Strategic Partners
       Sugartown Worldwide LLC
       Tommy Bahama Group, Inc.
       Uber A/S
       VF Corporation
       W. L. Gore & Associates GmbH
       Whistles Ltd

     Table 2. Buyers rated during Q4 2017 by buyer type
     Note. ‘N’ refers to the number of ratings submitted. Companies in bold font engaged with Better Buying to invite suppliers to participate.

10   Better Buying Index Report Spring 2018 Methodology
Table 3 shows most buyers are              LOCATION OF RATED BUYERS
located in Europe/United Kingdom
                                          REGION AND COUNTRY             FREQUENCY                     %
(47.7%) and United States (47.7%).
                                                                         (N=65)
                                          Asia Pacific                   3                             4.6%

                                                                                                                                        METHODOLOGY
Buyers were classified into
                                          Australia                      1                             1.5
four buyer types according to
information from Standard & Poor’s        Hong Kong                      2                             6.2
NetAdvantage Database, which uses         Europe/UK                      31                            47.7
Standard Industrial Classification        Denmark                        1                             1.5
(SIC) and the North American
                                          Germany                        4                             6.2
Industry Classification System
                                          Italy                          1                             1.5
(NAICS) to categorize companies for
the purpose of investment research.       Norway                         2                             3.1
Three classifications are taken from      Spain                          1                             1.5
the NetAdvantage Database, while          Sweden                         1                             1.5
‘General Retail’ has been developed
                                          Switzerland                    1                             1.5
by Better Buying to correctly capture
another group of retailers. The four      United Kingdom                 20                            30.8

buyer types include:                      North America                  31                            47.7
                                          Canada                         3                             4.6
• A
   pparel, Accessories, & Luxury         United States                  28                            4.3
  Goods: buyers (or brands)
  that develop, source, and then         Table 3. Location of rated buyers
  wholesale their products to            Note. This information is based on what the supplier submitted.
  retailers, but may also have
  direct retail sales. Companies
                                         As well as approaching suppliers
  in this category may also own
                                         directly to solicit participation, eight
  manufacturing facilities.
                                         buyers took leadership roles in the
• Apparel Retail: buyers who sell
                                         Q4 2017 rating cycle (highlighted
   products they source and develop
                                         in bold in Table 2) by providing
   primarily through their own stores.
                                         their full or partial supplier lists and
• D
   epartment Stores: buyers who         invitations for their suppliers to
  sell multiple brands in their retail   participate. Better Buying used the
  stores, and who may also develop       information and invitation letters to
  and source private label products.     contact suppliers and urged them to
• G
   eneral Retail: buyers who sell       take the opportunity to give honest
  multiple brands in their stores,       and anonymous feedback. Several
  and may also develop private label     buyers engaged in this process
  products. These buyers stock food,     thanks to the encouragement
  general merchandise, housewares,       of multi-stakeholder initiatives
  or other categories making them        making commitments to responsible
  distinct from apparel retail and       purchasing practices.
  department stores.

                                                                              Better Buying Index Report Spring 2018 Methodology   11
About the suppliers who submitted ratings
     Better Buying protects the anonymity of suppliers by withholding the
     identities of those who submit ratings and the raw data they provide. The
     ratings from 156 suppliers across 24 countries were grouped into regions,
     analyzed, and included in this benchmark report (see Table 4).

       SUPPLIER HEADQUARTER
       REGION AND COUNTRY                         FREQUENCY (N=156)              %
       Asia Pacific                               1                              0.64
       Australia                                  1                              0.64
       East Asia                                  36                             23.08
       Cambodia                                   4                              2.56
       Korea, Republic of (South Korea)           12                             7.69
       Malaysia                                   1                              0.64
       Taiwan                                     13                             8.33
       Thailand                                   3                              1.92
       Vietnam                                    3                              1.92
       EEMEA (Eastern Europe/Central and          7                              4.49
       Western Asia, Middle East, Africa)
       Mauritius                                  1                              0.64
       Tunisia                                    1                              0.64
       Turkey                                     5                              3.21
       China/Hong Kong                            51                             32.69
       China                                      22                             14.10
       Hong Kong                                  29                             18.59
       South Asia                                 20                             12.82
       Bangladesh                                 1                              0.64
       India                                      17                             10.90
       Pakistan                                   1                              0.64
       Sri Lanka                                  1                              0.64
       US/Canada                                  23                             14.74
       Canada                                     4                              2.56
       United States                              19                             12.18
       Western Europe/UK                          18                             11.54
       France                                     1                              0.64
       Ireland                                    1                              0.64
       Italy                                      1                              0.64
       Portugal                                   7                              4.49
       Sweden                                     2                              1.28
       United Kingdom                             6                              3.85

     Table 4. Location of supplier headquarters

12   Better Buying Index Report Spring 2018 Methodology
Suppliers were asked to indicate        SUPPLIER BUSINESS                 FREQUENCY                     %
their business model (see Table 5).     MODEL                             (N=156)
                                        Factory owners                    111                           71.15
Of those suppliers owning factories,    Licensee/Agent/Vendor             59                            37.82

                                                                                                                                         METHODOLOGY
the average number of factories
                                        Brand/Wholesaler                  21                            13.46
owned was just over four and
the average number of workers
                                       Table 5. Supplier business model
employed in those factories during
                                       Note. Suppliers could pick more than one business model.
the high season was 5,672 (see
Table 6).
                                         CHARACTERISTICS                  AVERAGE        SD            MINIMUM       MAXIMUM
Suppliers maintained a fairly large                                       (N=111)
number of customers. The average         No. of factories owned           4.15            4.74          1             24
is skewed higher because of the          Total number of workers          5671.77         10091.78      23            60000
large customer base held by a few        at factories owned by
suppliers with unique business           supplier (during high
                                         season)
models (see Table 7). The median
                                         Total number of workers          5296.93         9618.06       20            55000
number of customers was 20 and
                                         at factories owned by
the average buyer-supplier business      supplier (during low
relationship spanned fewer than 10       season)
years (see Table 8).
                                       Table 6. Factory characteristics

                                        CUSTOMERS          AVERAGE         SD              MINIMUM      MEDIAN        MAXIMUM
                                                           (N=218)
                                        No. of different   39.32            100.94         2                20        1300
                                        customers
                                        in the last 12
                                        months

                                       Table 7. Number of different customers

                                        YEARS                             AVERAGE         SD            MINIMUM       MAXIMUM
                                                                          (N=218)
                                        No. of years of relationship      9.42            7.27          1             37

                                       Table 8. Years of business relationship supplier has with buyer

                                                                               Better Buying Index Report Spring 2018 Methodology   13
3. Scores and Ratings

14   Better Buying Index Report Spring 2018 Scores and Ratings
Table 9 outlines the scores of                         In Q4 of 2017 the average overall
the 218 submitted ratings from                         Better Buying score for buyers was
the Q4 2017 rating cycle. Color                        2.5 stars out of 5, but the scores
                                                                                                        The industry benchmark

                                                                                                                                                        SCORES AND RATINGS
differentiates between good                            assigned to individual companies                 does not represent
scores of between 4 to 5 stars                         varied widely, from a low of 0 stars             a standard of good
(green), average scores of 2 to 3.5                    to a high of 4.5 stars (see Table 9).            performance, it simply
stars (turquoise), and poor scores                     The best performing category was in              indicates average industry
of 1.5 stars or less (purple). It is                   Payment and Terms (4.5 stars), while             performance during the
important to note that the industry                    the worst performing category was
                                                                                                        rating period.
benchmark does not represent a                         in Sourcing and Order Placement
standard of good performance, it                       (0 stars).2
simply indicates average industry
performance during the rating                          As we begin to recognize individual
period.                                                companies with higher ratings and
                                                       identify their best practices, these
                                                       buyers will provide a roadmap for
                                                       others to follow.

     BETTER BUYING SCORE                                      AVERAGE ALL SUBMITTED
                                                              RATINGS (N=218)
     Overall
     Planning and Forecasting
     Design and Development
     Cost and Cost Negotiation
     Sourcing and Order Placement
     Payment and Terms
     Management of the Purchasing Process
     CSR Harmonization

Table 9. Overall Better Buying scores and average scores across seven categories of
purchasing practices (0 to 5 stars).

2
    The numerical scores associated with the star ratings can be found in Table A1 of the Appendix.

                                                                                       Better Buying Index Report Spring 2018 Scores and Ratings   15
4. Key Findings

     In this section, we go beyond the stars
     and look at purchasing practices in more detail.

16   Better Buying Index Report Spring 2018 Key Findings
BEST BUYER                                       To calculate this rating, suppliers
PERFORMANCE IS IN                                were asked about the various ways
                                                                                           Nearly one-quarter of
PAYMENT AND TERMS                                buyers may use to avoid paying in
                                                                                           suppliers reported their
                                                 full. The score indicates whether
Payment and Terms, which measures                the buyer treats its suppliers fairly     buyers used various tactics

                                                                                                                                            KEY FINDINGS
whether suppliers are paid on                    when it comes to the payment and          to get out of paying in full…
time and at the price agreed in the              terms of the orders. As is the case in
contract, was the best performing                many buyer-supplier relationships,
                                                                                           Where a bill is paid on time, it
category across the board. It                    failure to adhere to the payment and
                                                                                           doesn’t necessarily mean it was
received an average score of 4.5                 terms of the order can put financial
                                                                                           paid in full. Nearly one-quarter of
stars, with scores ranging from 0 to             strain on suppliers and increase
                                                                                           suppliers reported their buyers used
5 stars.                                         risks throughout the supply chain. In
                                                                                           various tactics to get out of paying
                                                 addition, failure to pay on time can
                                                                                           in full, for reasons that had nothing
                                                 be a leading indicator of bankruptcy,
                                                                                           to do with supplier performance
The best performance was                         information which will be helpful for
                                                                                           (see Table 10).
in Payment and Terms,                            suppliers and financial partners.

which measures whether                                                                     An optional question in the Q4 2017
                                                 Most suppliers (92.7%) reported
suppliers are paid on time                                                                 rating cycle asked ‘Beyond paying
                                                 their buyers paid the bills on time.
                                                                                           the bill on time and in full, what do
and at the price agreed in                       For those that were late, delays
                                                                                           good Payment and Terms practices
the contract.                                    ranged from 10 to 180 days, with an
                                                                                           look like?’ The responses indicated
                                                 average of 38-day delay (SD = 48.75).
                                                                                           that going beyond the basics and
                                                                                           providing some favorable terms for
                                                                                           the supplier would be ideal. Some
 PAYMENT REDUCTION                                FREQUENCY           % OF ALL             favorable practices from buyers
 PRACTICES                                        (N=218)             SUBMITTED
                                                                      RATINGS              included:
 Discounts/rebates required by the buyer          22                  10.1%
 after price was agreed                                                                    • P
                                                                                              aying sample invoices before the
 Late or unsubstantiated claims of quality        12                  5.5                    samples ship (8.3%)
 defects                                                                                   • I ssuing letters of credit so that
 Requirement to provide discount or switch        10                  4.6                     suppliers are paid promptly and
 currency used in the order due to currency                                                   avoid having to take an external
 fluctuations
                                                                                              line of credit at high interest rates
 Reduction in payment due to price drop in        6                   2.8                     (6.9%)
 raw materials
                                                                                           • P
                                                                                              aying for volume orders in full on
 Reduction of payment for arbitrary               4                   1.8
 administrative procedures                                                                   or before shipment (4.1%)

 Other                                            15                  6.9                  • P
                                                                                              aying deposits on volume orders
                                                                                             (0.9%).
 Buyer did not use practices to avoid full        167                 76.6
 payment

Table 10. Practices used to avoid full payment

                                                                                 Better Buying Index Report Spring 2018 Key Findings   17
Better Buying is making some
       ORDER                                     changes to the questions and
       RISK-TO-REWARD                            scoring of the Payment and Terms                        North American buyers
                                                 category for the upcoming rating                        (0.5) had better scores
       Order Risk-to-Reward (ORR)
       measures how much monthly
                                                 cycle to better capture these good                      on Sourcing and Order
                                                 practices. Advance payment and                          Placement than buyers in
       unit volume varies from
                                                 favorable terms will be scored,
       the average order over the                                                                        Europe/UK (0 stars) or Asia
                                                 and a new question on payment
       year, and provides a clearer
                                                 of sample invoices will be added.
                                                                                                         Pacific (0 stars).
       understanding of the volatility
                                                 These changes mean scores for this
       in the month-to-month                                                                             Do buyers reward suppliers
                                                 category are likely to differ in the
       relationship. ORR is based on                                                                     for compliance to their codes
                                                 next industry benchmark report.
       the coefficient of variation,                                                                     of conduct? More than 60%
       which is calculated by dividing
                                                 WORST BUYER                                             of suppliers reported that no
       SD of the month-to-month
                                                 PERFORMANCE IS IN                                       incentives were received for their
       order volume during the year
                                                 SOURCING AND ORDER                                      compliance to buyers’ codes of
       by the average of those orders,
                                                 PLACEMENT                                               conduct (see Table 11). This puts
       and multiplying the figure by                                                                     compliant suppliers’ costlier
       100 to convert the scores to a            Sourcing and order placement                            operations in head-to-head
       percentage.                               encompasses two topics:                                 competition with suppliers who may
                                                                                                         be doing little to ensure the health
       The risk part of the equation             1. Do buyers reward suppliers for                     and safety of their workers.
       underscores the challenges                     compliance to their codes of
       suppliers face in adjusting to                 conduct?
       dramatic peaks and troughs of             2. T
                                                     o what extent do month-to-
       orders. The reward part of the               month orders fluctuate?                              More than 60% of
       equation considers the average                                                                    suppliers reported that no
       order size received from the              Sourcing and Order Placement                            incentives were received
       buyer with recognition that               was the worst performing category                       for their compliance to
       larger volume is generally more           across the board, with an average
       beneficial to suppliers.                                                                          buyers’ codes of conduct.
                                                 score of 0 stars and the highest
                                                 score reaching only 3.5 stars.
       Suppliers having no risk, or an
       ORR of 0 would be the best                Scores for individual buyers were
       case scenario. In scoring this,           dependent on where the buyer
       orders that are primarily basic           was headquartered. Buyers in
       products are differentiated from          North America (0.5 stars) received
       those that are primarily fashion          better scores in Sourcing and Order
       products because suppliers                Placement than buyers in Europe/UK
       acknowledge that there are no             (0 stars) or in Asia Pacific (0 stars). 3
       fashion products without order
       volatility.

                                                 3
                                                     Further details on that analysis can be found in Table A2 of the Appendix.

18   Better Buying Index Report Spring 2018 Key Findings
To what extent do month-to-month              INCENTIVES                                     FREQUENCY            % OF ALL
orders fluctuate? Having too much                                                            (N=218)              SUBMITTED
                                                                                                                  RATINGS
business in some months and none
                                               Premium prices                                7                    3.2%
or too little in other months makes
it difficult for suppliers to plan and         Larger volume                                 55                   25.2

                                                                                                                                            KEY FINDINGS
maintain a workforce.                          More favorable mix of products                24                   11.0
                                              Consistent minimum volume of production       23                   10.6
In sharing information about the              per month
volume of orders they received every          Buyer-paid training for skill building/       17                   7.8
month from their buyers, it becomes           capacity development
easy to understand how challenging             Option to set higher minimum order level      10                   4.6
it is for suppliers to plan production
                                               Other incentive                               4                    1.8
with erratic shifts of volume from
                                               No incentives were provided                   132                  60.6
month-to-month. To compare the
vastly different volume of orders
from buyers, we have calculated              Table 11. Incentives provided to suppliers for compliance/CSR

the Order Risk-to-Reward (ORR).
Across all suppliers, the average
ORR was 102% but with quite a bit of
variability experienced by suppliers.
ORR ranged from a low of 0 to a high
of 346% (See Table 12).

                                              FREQUENCY (N=218)                            % OF ALL SUBMITTED RATINGS

  ORDER RISK TO REWARD %                      BASIC ORDERS           FASHION               BASIC ORDERS          FASHION
                                              (70% OF                ORDERS (30%           (70% OF               ORDERS (30%
                                              RATINGS)               OF RATINGS)           RATINGS)              OF RATINGS)
                                              (N=153)                (N=65)                (N=153)               (N=65)
  ORR=0                                       8                      2                     5.2%                  3.1%
  ORR=1-20                                    6                      4                     3.9                   6.1
  ORR=21-40                                   16                     8                     10.5                  12.3
  ORR=41-60                                   26                     8                     17.0                  12.3
  ORR=61-80                                   22                     9                     14.4                  13.8
  ORR=81-100                                  16                     6                     10.5                  9.2
  ORR=101-120                                 15                     7                     9.8                   10.8
  ORR=121-140                                 8                      4                     5.2                   6.2
  ORR=141-160                                 3                      2                     1.9                   3.1
  ORR=161 or more                             33                     15                    21.6                  23.1

Table 12. ORR for basic and fashion orders

                                                                                 Better Buying Index Report Spring 2018 Key Findings   19
Figure 2 shows an example where
     monthly orders fluctuate from a low                                                MONTHLY ORDER VOLUME FLUCTUATIONS
     of 20,000 to a high of 800,000 units
     per month, or 137% according to
                                                                              900,000
     Better Buying’s ORR measure. A high
                                                                              800,000
     ORR indicates inconsistent month-
                                                                              700,000
     to-month ordering; in this case, risk
                                                                              600,000
                                                                Unit volume

     that is over 100 times the reward.
                                                                              500,000
                                                                              400,000
     ORR differed by the region where
                                                                              300,000
     buyers were located. More steady
                                                                              200,000
     and consistent business was
                                                                              100,000
     reported as coming from buyers in
                                                                                   0
     North America, who had an average                                                  1   2     3    4     5     6    7     8    9    10   11   12
     ORR of 85.4% (SD=72.5). This                                                                                  Months
     compares with volatile average
     orders coming from buyers based in
                                                                                        Figure 2. Sample monthly order volume fluctuations
     Europe/UK (ORR=123.8%, SD=78.9)
     and Asia Pacific (ORR=144.1%,
     SD=82.8). 4

                                                                                                                   What happens as a result of
     In addition, ORR differed depending
                                                                                                                   inconsistency in monthly volume?
     on where the suppliers were                              More steady and consistent
                                                                                                                   Some suppliers indicated they were
     headquartered. Suppliers located                         business was reported                                reluctant to be completely honest
     in East Asia (all countries except                       as coming from buyers in                             about how monthly order fluctuation
     China/Hong Kong) experienced                             North America.                                       impacted working conditions (an
     lower ORR/less volatility in orders
                                                                                                                   optional question in this first rating
     (average of 73.2%, SD=69.9) than
                                                              What explains these regional                         cycle which will be scored in the
     suppliers located in China/Hong
                                                              differences? One reason may be                       future). Over 42% indicated that
     Kong (average ORR of 116.4%,
                                                              that suppliers headquartered in                      the month-to-month variability
     SD=75.5) and Western Europe/UK,
                                                              Europe/UK are viewed by European                     they experienced in buyer orders
     where suppliers experienced the
                                                              buyers as ‘domestic’ suppliers, able                 did not impact working conditions
     most volatility of all regions (average
                                                              to quickly respond to unexpected                     (see Table 13). Others reported
     of 155.6%, SD=100.4). 5
                                                              needs, even though their production                  a range of impacts, including:
                                                              may be scattered all over the world.                 overtime within the law or code
                                                              In addition, buyers may assume that                  requirements, overtime in excess
                                                              the vast capabilities and resources                  of law or code requirements, hiring
                                                              of suppliers in China/Hong Kong                      of temporary workers, unauthorized
                                                              make them better able to respond                     subcontracting, reduced hours/
                                                              to dramatic peaks and troughs in                     underemployment, and layoffs/
                                                              production.                                          retrenchment of workers.

     4
         Information about the statistical testing is available in Table A3 of the Appendix.
     5
         See Table A4 in the Appendix for more information about the statistical testing.

20   Better Buying Index Report Spring 2018 Key Findings
While it is difficult to imagine         IMPACTS ON WORKING CONDITIONS                   FREQUENCY               % OF ALL
a fashion industry without any                                                           (N=218)                 SUBMITTED
                                                                                                                 RATINGS
variability, we did observe some
                                         Subcontracting approved by the                 14                      6.4%
low ORR for fashion products in this
                                         buyer
round of data collection. With this

                                                                                                                                          KEY FINDINGS
                                         Overtime within the law or code                86                      39.4
information, we can start to identify
                                         requirements
the leading factors which contribute
                                          Hiring of temporary/casual labor               45                      20.6
to inconsistent orders and work
with buyers to help improve their         Unauthorized subcontracting                    8                       3.7

purchasing practices.                    Overtime in excess of law or code              21                      9.6
                                         requirements

PLANNING AND                             Inability to meet wages and social benefit     7                       3.2
FORECASTING IS IN                        requirements

CRITICAL NEED OF                          Reduced hours/underemployment                  29                      13.3
IMPROVEMENT                               Layoffs/retrenchment of workers                14                      6.4
                                          Other impact                                   8                       3.7
Improvements in the Planning and
Forecasting category are needed.          No impact on working conditions                93                      42.7
Planning and Forecasting measures
the extent to which buyers include      Table 11. Impacts of month-to-month order variability on working conditions
suppliers in product order plans, as
well as the accuracy of the buyers’
planned orders compared with
orders actually placed.

Planning and Forecasting received                        NUMBER OF DAYS FORECAST WAS RECEIVED
                                                            IN ADVANCE OF ORDER PLACEMENT
an average score of 1.5 stars, with
the scores ranging from 0 to 5 stars.

While the majority of suppliers                                6.4%
(83.9%) reported receiving                               16.1%    6.4%                             180+ days

forecasts (or some other form                                        6%                            150-179 days
of production insight) from their                                                                  120-149 days
buyers, they also indicated they had            10.1%
not been received far enough in
                                                                               13.3%               90-119 days

                                                                                                   60-89 days
advance. About a quarter reported
                                                                                                   30-59 days
that the forecast was received                      23.9%
only 30 to 59 days in advance of                                      17.9%                        29 days or less

order placement (see Figure 3).                                                                    No forecast provided in advance
In contrast, 18.8% of all supplier
ratings reported buyers provided
a forecast 120 days or more in
advance of order placement.                      Figure 3. Days forecast was received in advance of order placement

                                                                             Better Buying Index Report Spring 2018 Key Findings     21
In some instances, when capacity
       WHAT DOES                                 was booked in advance it did not
       INACCURATE                                match up with the actual orders
                                                                                                                 What is more concerning
       FORECASTING LOOK                          received. Nearly 24% of all suppliers                           than accuracy of
       LIKE AND HOW DOES                         reported that the actual orders                                 forecasting was that
       IT POTENTIALLY                            varied by +/- 10% or less, which is                             nearly 4 out of 10 buyers
       IMPACT WORKERS?                           a level of accuracy all buyers should                           didn’t ask their suppliers
                                                 strive for. Another 22.5% of the                                to reserve capacity in
       If the buyer reserves capacity
                                                 ratings showed the forecast was
       for 100,000 units and comes                                                                               advance. This confirms that
                                                 within +/- 11-20% (see Figure 4).
       in 40% over, the supplier now                                                                             a large amount of business
       needs to find space to produce                                                                            comes from buyers chasing
                                                 What is more concerning than the
       40,000 more units. Even with
                                                 accuracy of forecasting is that nearly                          last-minute production…
       20% difference, the supplier
                                                 four out of 10 buyers didn’t ask their
       is still looking for ways to
                                                 suppliers to reserve capacity in
       produce 20,000 more than
                                                 advance. This confirms that a large
       planned. What are the options?
                                                 amount of business comes from
       Overtime… subcontracting…
                                                 buyers chasing last-minute production
       hiring temporary labor.
                                                 for styles they had not anticipated
                                                 in advance or those selling more
       Suppliers may be fortunate
                                                 rapidly than expected. Open-to-buy
       enough to create capacity by
                                                 is an increasingly large part of buyers’
       pushing back the ship date
                                                 business and a challenging one for
       of another order. Or the order
                                                 suppliers.
       itself may be much smaller than
       anticipated. If the supplier
       commits only a portion of its
                                                                                VARIATION OF ORDERS COMPARED WITH
       capacity in advance, they may
                                                                                 CAPACITY RESERVED FOR THE BUYER
       be able to accommodate larger
       than expected orders. This is
                                                                  40
       risky too, as the order may fall                                                                                                             36.7
                                                                  35
       short and leave workers with
                                                                  30
       nothing to do, except look for a
                                                   % of ratings

                                                                  25   23.4   22.5
       job at a busy factory elsewhere.
                                                                  20
                                                                  15
                                                                  10                  7.8

                                                                   5                         3.2
                                                                                                           1.8           1.8
                                                                                                    0.5           0.9              0.9   0.5   0
                                                                  0
                                                                         +/-   +/-   +/-    +/-    +/-    +/-    +/-    +/-    +/-    +/- +100%      No
                                                                        10% 11-20% 21-30% 31-40% 41-50% 51-60% 61-70% 71-80% 81-90% 91-99% or more capacity
                                                                       or less                                                                    booked in
                                                                                                                                                   advance
                                                                                                   Extent of order variation
                                                                                              % of all submitted ratings (n=218)

                                                                           Figure 4. Accuracy of capacity booked versus orders received

22   Better Buying Index Report Spring 2018 Key Findings
HELP NEEDED IN DESIGN                          Half of all suppliers indicated                                    When tech packs are delivered late,
AND DEVELOPMENT                                that 90-100% of tech packs                                         incomplete, or with inaccuracies
                                               were delivered accurately and on                                   there are delays in production.
Design and Development received an             time. Tech packs act as a recipe                                   Subsequent problems arise if the
average score of 2.5 out of 5 stars. The       book for supplier costing and                                      free on board (FOB) price has already

                                                                                                                                                                                KEY FINDINGS
scores ranged from 0 to 5 stars which          production. They contain detailed                                  been locked and the specifications
indicates some companies are far               specifications for materials including                             require more costly than anticipated
outperforming others.                          fiber content, weight of fabrics,                                  techniques or materials.
                                               seam types, stitch counts, trim and
Design and Development measures the            embellishment details, as well as
lateness or inaccuracy of technical and        size measurements and quality
production details provided to suppliers       control indicators.
by buyers. This category also covers the
frequency with which suppliers receive
orders for products they develop.
                                               More than one-third of suppliers indicated that they
                                               received orders for fewer than 40% of the products
Scores in Design and Development               they developed. This is a low hit rate given the time and
varied according to the region where           resources that go into development.
the supplier was headquartered.
Suppliers based in China/Hong Kong
suffered from lower buyer performance                                       % OF ORDERS RECEIVED AS COMPARED
in Design and Development (2 stars),
                                                                            WITH PRODUCTS DEVELOPED (HIT RATE)
                                                               40
as compared with suppliers based in                            35
                                                                                                                                                      36.2

South Asia (3 stars) and in Western                            30
                                                % of ratings

                                                               25
Europe/UK (3 stars). 6                                         20
                                                               15           13.3
                                                                                                                             10.1
                                                               10                          7.8           8.7                              7.3
                                                                     6                                             6.4                                           4.1
The vast majority of suppliers (95.9%)                          5
                                                                0
were developing products for the buyers                             100%   90-99%     80-89%           70-79%    60-69%   50-59%      40-49%           39%       Did not
they rated, yet infrequently won the                                                Orders received for products developed (hit rate)
                                                                                                                                                      or less   develop
                                                                                                                                                                products
volume order for those products. Over                                                            % of all submitted ratings (n=218)                              for the
                                                                                                                                                                  buyer
a third of suppliers indicated that they
                                                                           Figure 5. Hit rate on products developed for the buyer
received orders for fewer than 40% of
the products they developed, a low hit
rate given all the time and resources
that go into development. In contrast,                          % OF TECH PACKS DELIVERED ACCURATELY AND ON TIME
just 6% of suppliers received orders
                                                                           38.5
for every product they developed for a                         40
                                                               35
buyer and a further 13.3% of suppliers                         30
                                                % of ratings

                                                               25                   22.9
reported receiving orders on nine out of                       20
10 products they had developed. 7                              15   12.4                          11
                                                               10                                                 5.5
                                                                5                                          4.1            2.3                                    1.8
                                                                                                                                    0.9         0.5       0
                                                                0
6
  See Table A5 in the Appendix for details.                         100% 90-99% 80-89% 70-79% 60-69% 50-59% 40-49% 30-39% 20-29% 10-19% Less than
7
  Some suppliers produce samples for pay                                                                                                  10%
                                                                                                           % of tech packs
without an expectation of receiving volume
orders. Currently, however, Better Buying                                                        % of all submitted ratings (n=218)
requires suppliers to have volume orders to
demonstrate a business relationship with the                               Figure 6. Accurate and on time delivery of tech packs
buyer being rated.

                                                                                                       Better Buying Index Report Spring 2018 Key Findings                 23
DO PRICES SET BY
       NEGOTIATION STRATEGIES THAT PRESSURE                                            BUYERS COVER
       SUPPLIERS TO ACCEPT LOWER PRICES                                                COMPLIANT
                                                                                       PRODUCTION?
       • Take it or leave it—meet the          • Continuing to negotiate prices
          target cost or the supplier will         after bulk production has started   The Cost and Cost Negotiation
          not win the order                     • Threatening to move production      category evaluates whether suppliers
       • Allowing short response times            of existing programs or cutting     are given enough funds to meet all
          to price demands                         orders in the future                the buyer’s expectations, including
                                                                                       production costs, and compensation
       • Using an online bidding strategy      • Asking for price commitments
                                                                                       for workers that meet buyer codes of
          versus a ‘partnership’ negotiation       based on a larger volume than
                                                                                       conduct and legal requirements.
          strategy                                 actual quantity ordered
       • Comparing suppliers only on           • Making changes to product
                                                                                       Cost and Cost Negotiation received an
          price instead of a full range of         specifications after FOB price is
                                                                                       average score of 3.5 stars, with scores
          attributes                               locked
                                                                                       ranging from 0 to 5 stars.
       • Sharing competitors’ bids or          • Making changes to terms (e.g.,
          pressure to meet competitor              payment, ship dates, quantities,    Under half of suppliers (38.1%)
          costs from across different              factories) after issuing purchase   indicated that the prices they received
          countries                                order                               for all of their products covered
       • Requiring supplier to meet            • Persistently calling or emailing,   compliant production. An additional
          specific elements of other               asking for lower price, multiple    four out of 10 said 80 to 99% of their
          suppliers’ cost structure                rounds of negotiation, or other     orders were priced to cover compliant
       • Demanding across the board               fatigue producing tactics           production. The remaining 20.6%
          price cuts from previous orders       • Using threatening language or       received a large amount of orders
          or years                                 negotiating in an angry tone        where the costs were too low to cover
                                                                                       compliant production (see Figure 7).
       • Demanding level prices be
          maintained from year to year with
                                                                                       How do suppliers end up with orders
          no consideration for inflation
                                                                                       that don’t cover all the costs of
                                                                                       production? A supplier may accept an
                                                                                       order at a lower price in the hope of
                                                                                       snagging a major buyer’s business for
                                                                                       the future, or they may do so in order
     Over 43% of suppliers                                                             to keep their workforce employed in
     reported experiencing                                                             periods where orders were less than
     high pressure negotiating                                                         anticipated.
     strategies.
                                                                                       Buyers’ negotiation strategies are
                                                                                       also a leading factor in Cost and Cost
                                                                                       Negotiation ratings. Over 43% of
                                                                                       suppliers reported experiencing high
                                                                                       pressure negotiating strategies (see
                                                                                       box to the left). Negotiation strategies
                                                                                       were not taken into consideration in
                                                                                       this cycle of data collection but will be

24   Better Buying Index Report Spring 2018 Key Findings
incorporated when calculating Cost
and Cost Negotiation scores moving                                                 PERCENT OF ORDERS RECEIVED AS COMPARED
forward.                                                                              WITH PRODUCTS DEVELOPED (HIT RATE)
                                                                       40   38.1
                                                                       35
Some regional differences were

                                                                                                                                                                         KEY FINDINGS
                                                                       30
                                                        % of ratings   25                     22
observed in the ratings for Cost                                       20
                                                                                    19.3

and Cost Negotiation. First, scores                                    15
                                                                                                    7.9
                                                                       10
varied depending on the region in                                       5                                  3.7       2.8             0.9   1.4   0.9
                                                                                                                                                             3.7
                                                                                                                             0                         0.5
                                                                        0
which the buyer was headquartered.
                                                                            100% 90-99% 80-89% 70-79% 60-69% 50-59%40-49% 30-39%20-29% 10-19% 5-9%           Less
Buyers headquartered in Europe/                                                                                                                              than
                                                                                                                 Percent of orders                            5%
UK (4 stars) had better costing                                                                      % of all submitted ratings (n=218)
practices than those headquartered
in North America (3.5 stars). 8                                                            Figure 7. Orders priced for compliant production

                                                     may suggest that buyers are not                                       Scores on Cost and Cost Negotiation
Buyers headquartered in                              complying with increased labor                                        also varied significantly according to
Europe/UK (4 stars) had                              costs. Better Buying was unable to                                    the region where the supplier was
better costing practices                             determine whether the largest orders                                  headquartered. Suppliers based in
than those headquartered                             placed in the countries outlined in                                   East Asia reported that their buyers’
in North America (3.5                                table A7 (Appendix) was due to buyers                                 Cost and Cost Negotiation strategies
                                                     directing them to do so, or because                                   were the worst (2.5 stars). Buyers
stars).
                                                     the suppliers were turning to their                                   whose suppliers were based in
                                                     lowest price options. Nevertheless,                                   China/Hong Kong, US/Canada and
Second, scores varied according to                   price pressures are being felt more                                   Western Europe/UK all received 4
the region of the world in which the                 acutely by the factories and workers in                               stars and buyers whose suppliers
buyer’s largest order was placed.9                   these countries.                                                      were based in South Asia earned
Suppliers reported more price                                                                                              3.5 stars. Suppliers in East Asia may
pressure coming from buyers whose                                                                                          have higher overhead costs, making
largest orders were placed in East                                                                                         compliant pricing even more difficult
Asia (Cambodia, Indonesia, Malaysia,                 The larger number of                                                  when buyers negotiate prices across
Thailand, and Vietnam). The scores                   orders being produced in                                              multiple regions.
were significantly lower (2.5 stars)                 Cambodia and Vietnam…
than when the largest orders were                    where labor costs have
placed in China/Hong Kong (4 stars),
                                                     risen dramatically suggests
South Asia (4 stars), or US/Canada (4
stars).10 The higher volume of orders
                                                     that buyers’ pricing may
being produced in Cambodia and                       not be keeping up with
Vietnam (East Asia region), where                    the inflationary changes in
labor costs have risen dramatically,                 these producing countries.

8
  Refer to Table A2 of the Appendix.
9
  Statistical details can be found in Table A6 of the Appendix.
10
   Details of the locations where rated buyers’ largest orders were produced is in Table A7 of the Appendix.

                                                                                                          Better Buying Index Report Spring 2018 Key Findings       25
HOW ARE BUYERS
     MANAGING THE                                   KEY MILESTONES IN TIME AND ACTION CALENDARS
     PURCHASING PROCESS?                            • Hand-off of detailed style             • H
                                                                                                 and off of tech pack for bulk
     Managing the Purchasing Process                   information for design proto             production
     received an average score of 3.5 with             samples (e.g. initial Tech Pack        • R
                                                                                                 elease of purchase order
     scores ranging from 0 to 5 stars.                 or detailed sketch and material
                                                                                              • O
                                                                                                 rdering bulk production
                                                       descriptions)
                                                                                                materials
     This category assesses the amount              • Ordering proto sample materials
                                                                                              • O
                                                                                                 rdering or technical details for
     of time offered to the supplier during         • Comments on fit/proto samples             packaging (e.g. labels, hang tags,
     development and production. Buyers
                                                    • Trims and artwork sample                 instructions) for bulk production
     are required to complete all key actions
                                                       approvals                              • F
                                                                                                 it sample approval
     outlined in a Time and Action (TNA)
     Calendar specific to the production            • Lab dips/color sample approvals         • M
                                                                                                 aterial/s approval
     cycle.                                         • Wash/finishing sample approvals         • S
                                                                                                 ize set appoval
                                                    • Style consolidation and release        • F
                                                                                                 inal pre-production sample
     Nearly all suppliers (95.9%) reported             of sale sample order                     sign-off
     that TNA calendars were used by their          • Ordering sales sample materials        • Q
                                                                                                 uality testing approvals
     buyers and the majority (86.2%) found
                                                    • Sales sample approvals                   (production test of fabric,
     that the calendar, or the contract terms,
                                                    • Quality testing approvals                material, garment, etc.)
     provided enough time for production.
     These figures provide a good starting             (development test of fabric,           • T
                                                                                                 op of production sample
     point. However, it is concerning that             material, garment, etc)                  approvals
     nearly 14% of ratings indicate there is        • Bulk order confirmation                • F
                                                                                                 inal inspection approval
     not enough time for production from            • Bulk order quantity forecast           • S
                                                                                                 hipping sign-off
     the start.

     It is concerning that                        To ensure a smooth production               Suppliers revealed that it is often
                                                  process, buyers should meet the             deadlines in the development or pre-
     nearly 14% of ratings
                                                  deadlines as outlined in the TNA            production stages that are missed. To
     indicate there is not
                                                  calendar. The ratings indicated that just   better understand which deadlines are
     enough time for production                   half of all buyers met their deadlines      most often missed and to help buyers
     from the start.                              90% or more of the time (applicable         improve in this category, this measure
                                                  to a buyers largest orders only), and       will be altered for future rating cycles.
                                                  15.6% of those met all the deadlines
                                                  in their TNA calendars (see Figure 8).
                                                  Worryingly, 22% of buyers failed to
                                                  meet deadlines more than 79% of the
                                                  time.

26   Better Buying Index Report Spring 2018 Key Findings
From the data, we can see that
                            PERCENT OF CALENDAR DEADLINES MET                                       most buyers are adhering to their
                40
                                                                                                    responsibilities of providing enough
                             34.4                                                                   time for production and adjusting
                35
                                                                                                    shipping dates or prices when

                                                                                                                                                     KEY FINDINGS
                30                      28
                                                                                                    needed. Just 8.7% of the buyers
                25
                                                                                                    responsible for delays did not
                20
                     15.6
                                                                                                    amend the ship dates or prices
 % of ratings

                15                                                                                  (see Table 14).
                10                                                                       7.3
                                                    6
                 5                                              4.1
                                                                         2.3     2.3

                0
                     100%   90-99%    80-89%    70-79%      60-69%     50-59%   40-49%   Less
                                                                                                    From the data, we can
                                                                                         than
                                                                                          5%
                                                                                                    see that most buyers
                                        Percent of calendar deadlines met
                                                                                                    are adhering to their
                                        % of all submitted ratings (n=218)
                                                                                                    responsibilities of
                                     Figure 8. Calendar deadlines met
                                                                                                    providing enough time for
                                                                                                    production and adjusting
                                                                                                    shipping dates or prices
                                                                                                    when needed.
  FLEXIBILITY AND ACCOUNTABILITY                           FREQUENCY             % OF ALL
  FOR DELAYS                                               (N=218)               SUBMITTED
                                                                                 RATINGS            When buyers are not accountable
   No changes/requirements/performance                     79                    36.2%              in ensuring adequate production
   failures made by the buyer or nominated                                                          time, suppliers incur the unexpected
   suppliers necessitated flexibility/
   accountability to ensure adequate
                                                                                                    costs and associated risks to make
   production time                                                                                  up for lost time. This can often lead
   The buyer was flexible in adjusting                     120                   55.0               to unauthorized subcontracting,
   shipping dates and/or prices to ensure                                                           unpaid overtime, or the supplier
   adequate production time                                                                         having to pay for costly air shipment.
  The buyer was responsible for delays but                 19                   8.7
  did not amend ship dates or prices

Table 14. Buyer flexibility and accountability for delays

                                                                                          Better Buying Index Report Spring 2018 Key Findings   27
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