Better Buying Index Report Spring 2018 - Purchasing Practices Performance in Apparel, Footwear, and Household Textile Supply Chains
←
→
Page content transcription
If your browser does not render page correctly, please read the page content below
Better Buying Index Report Spring 2018 Purchasing Practices Performance in Apparel, Footwear, and Household Textile Supply Chains
ABOUT BETTER BUYING Better Buying is an initiative that supports industry-wide transformation of buyer purchasing practices to ensure business relationships allow buyers and suppliers to achieve their financial, environmental, and social sustainability goals. Anonymous supplier ratings of buyer purchasing practices are aggregated, scored, and made available to the buyers and suppliers. Ratings are updated every six months and eventually made public along with buyer comments, and examples of best and improving practices. Detailed analytic reports, along with key recommendations, are made available to buyers who have been rated a minimum of five times. Co-founded by Marsha Dickson, Ph.D., and Doug Cahn, Better Buying was launched during an 18-month feasibility study funded by C&A Foundation in 2015 and is currently a project of the University of Delaware. For more information, visit: www.betterbuying.org. Report written by Dr. Marsha A. Dickson, co-founder of Better Buying, with support from Dipti Bhatt, research associate and Doug Cahn, co-founder. Dickson, Marsha A. (2018). Better Buying Purchasing Practices Index, Spring 2018: Purchasing Practices Performance in Apparel, Footwear, and Household Textile Supply Chains. Available at www.betterbuying.org. Copyright 2018, Better Buying. All rights reserved. ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Better Buying appreciates the support of its primary funder, C&A Foundation, and secondary funder, Humanity United. The opinions expressed are those of Better Buying and do not necessarily reflect the views of its funders. Better Buying Index Report Spring 2018
Contents Executive Summary 2 1. Introduction 4 2. Methodology 6 CONTENTS 3. Scores and Ratings 14 4. Key Findings 16 5. Conclusions and Recommendations 32 Appendix 38 Better Buying Index Report Spring 2018 1
Executive Summary In recent years, purchasing practices and their impact on suppliers’ ability to provide decent working conditions have come under increasing scrutiny worldwide. In recognition of the need for buyers such as brands and retailers to improve purchasing practices, Better Buying has been created to support the transformation of buyer-supplier relationships so that all parties can achieve their financial, social, and environmental sustainability goals. Better Buying has now launched 4. Sourcing and Order Placement: 7. C SR Harmonization: measures a first-of-its-kind index – Better measures if buyers are rewarded the internal alignment of buyer Buying Purchasing Practices Index for compliance with their codes of companies on corporate social (BBPPI) – using data submitted conduct and month-to-month order compliance goals and their anonymously by suppliers through fluctuation. contribution to reducing industry- its online platform to rate the 5. P ayment and Terms: measures if wide audit duplication. purchasing practices of buyers suppliers are paid on time and at against seven key categories: the price agreed in the original This report summarizes the results contract. and key findings from the first cycle 1. P lanning and Forecasting: of BBPPI data collection carried out 6. M anagement of the Purchasing measures the extent to which in Q4 2017. It includes ratings from Process: measures the amount buyers include suppliers in 156 suppliers across 24 countries of time offered to the supplier for production plans, as well as and measures the performance the development and production the accuracy of planned orders of 65 buyers within the apparel, phases in which buyers are required compared with orders actually footwear, and household textiles to complete key actions outlined in placed. industries globally. a Time and Action Calendar. 2. D esign and Development: measures the delay or inaccuracy Buyers have been awarded scores of technical and production using a 0 to 5-star rating system. details provided by buyers to suppliers. This category also BETTER BUYING SCORE AVERAGE OF ALL SUBMITTED covers the frequency to which RATINGS (N=218) suppliers receive orders for products they develop. Overall 3. C ost and Cost Negotiation: Planning and Forecasting measures if suppliers are Design and Development given enough funds to meet buyer expectations, Cost and Cost Negotiation including production costs and Sourcing and Order Placement compensation for suppliers to Payment and Terms meet buyer codes of conduct and legal requirements. Management of the Purchasing Process CSR Harmonization x 2 Better Buying Index Report 2017 Methodology Spring 2018 Executive Summary
The scores reveal that while buyers 1. Current business practices are • M ulti-stakeholder initiatives are performing well in some areas, unsustainable and in order to whose members have made improvements are needed in others. facilitate sustainable supply commitments to responsible EXECUTIVE SUMMARY The average overall score for buyers chains, buyers must begin to: purchasing practices and in this cycle was 2.5 stars. The best • Improve the predictability and improving workplace conditions performing category was Payment and consistency of their business with can use the BBPPI to measure Terms with 4.5 stars, while the worst suppliers. their performance across the performing category was Sourcing seven categories of purchasing • Offer and maintain enough time and Order Placement which received practices. for production. an average of 0 stars. • Eliminate financial tactics that 3. The BBPPI is a practical tool for In addition to presenting the overall erode suppliers’ abilities to cover improvement and will spur a ‘race Better Buying scores, the report the costs of business. to the top’ across all categories of delves into the complexities of • Support and incentivize buyers: buyer-supplier relationships (page sustainable business operations. • A ll apparel, footwear, and 14 onwards) across each category household textiles buyers can by taking into account a number of 2. Industry-wide transformation now use the BBPPI to review factors such as geographic location of buyer purchasing practices their own practices and begin to and Buyer Type. demands leadership: change their day-to-day practices, • W hile the BBPPI has created so that performance in purchasing The BBPPI provides an internationally an opportunity for suppliers to practices improves over time. recognized framework for measuring communicate their experiences, • B uyers from under-represented purchasing practices, as well more buyers are needed to types such as General Retail and as an action agenda to promote engage with the process by Department Stores, and their labor standards and sustainable inviting their suppliers to peers within these types, such as purchasing practices within supply participate in upcoming rating footwear or active wear buyers, chains globally. cycles, so they can better should engage with Better Buying understand their purchasing to gain actionable information as a The recommendations of this practices and identify areas of basis for making their categories report are therefore divided into focus for improvement. stand out for best (rather than three parts: first to reveal best and • D epartment stores especially are worst) practices. worst practices and to emphasize encouraged to engage with Better the need for an internationally Buying so that the BBPPI can recognized index such as the BBPPI, reflect the experiences of a more second to highlight the importance representative group of suppliers. of stakeholder engagement with • S uppliers should submit ratings the index, and third to identify rather than waiting for invitations opportunities for buyers to improve from their buyers. By increasing their ratings. the amount of ratings, Better Buying can improve accuracy, identify more trends, and provide a knowledge base from which improvements can be made. Better Buying Index Report Spring 2018 Executive Summary 3
1. Introduction Buyers, such as international brands and retailers, are increasingly concerned about the impact of their purchasing practices on suppliers’ ability to provide decent working conditions. Large and unpredictable order requests with tight timelines at the lowest possible cost are known to place significant hardships on suppliers, often resulting in substandard factory environmental and workplace performance. Poor practices can also prevent suppliers from running sustainable businesses and pose potential risks in supply chains. Therefore, improved purchasing practices not only have a positive impact on the workplace, but they also support buyers’ financial performance and help to maintain stable and responsive supply chains. 4 Better Buying Index Report Spring 2018 Introduction
Better Buying is an independent, other key stakeholders get up-to- reporting will allow stakeholders to third-party initiative with a mission date information about purchasing track improvements in purchasing to transform relationships between practices and how they are practices over time. the suppliers responsible for changing—hopefully for the better— INTRODUCTION manufacturing products and the over time. The BBPPI is the first in a growing companies that buy them, so suite of Better Buying indices that all parties can achieve their This report summarises the results that provides performance data financial, environmental, and and key findings from the first cycle and statistics measuring the social sustainability goals. Better of BBPPI data collection carried performance of buyer companies on Buying provides clear and relevant out in Q4 2017. It identifies best a range of business practices that information, feedback, and analysis practices in purchasing and supply impact their financial, environmental, to buyers about their purchasing chain processes and highlights and social sustainability goals, as practices with the broader goal of those purchasing practices in need well as the goals of their business accelerating improvements in supply of improvement. It is intended to partners. A second tool will be chains globally. 1 broaden stakeholder understanding released soon. Over time, Better of the most challenging day-to- Buying expects to expand its work The first ever Better Buying day business practices faced deeper into supply chains and Purchasing Practices Index (BBPPI) by suppliers working with buyer across multiple sectors, such as measures the performance of 65 companies to bring products to toys, electronics, and food and buyer companies within the apparel, market. The findings gathered can beverages. footwear, and household textiles be used by: industries against seven categories An independent external evaluation of purchasing practices. The BBPPI • Professionals in corporate of Better Buying’s work by Keystone uses data submitted anonymously social responsibility and labor Accountability stated: by suppliers based on their compliance to identify how their business experiences with specific own businesses are contributing “Better Buying could become the customers. to human rights violations. keystone species that supports • Industry professionals focused an entire ecosystem of actors All ratings are aggregated, turned on business operations and working together to improve buyer into scores, and subsequently made profitability to manage their practices. Its ratings could become available to the buyers being rated businesses more efficiently and the informational basis that is the and the suppliers that submitted profitably. flywheel that drives the entire buyer the ratings. Ratings are regularly practices improvement machine.” • Investors, financial institutions, updated by suppliers and are insurers, and auditors who can use eventually made public together the findings to assess potential with comments from buyers supply chain risks, not only about examples of best practice reputational but material risks and steps taken to improve their associated with supply disruption. practices. Suppliers, buyers, and Regular cycles of data collection and 1 Better Buying provides the opportunity for suppliers - as opposed to factories - to rate their buyer. Information pertaining to purchasing practices is most often held in the corporate supplier office in direct contact with the buyer, and not at factory level. A supplier, therefore, is defined as a parent company that owns one or more facilities or places orders in independently owned and operated factories on behalf of their clients, the brands and retailers. It is understood that a factory may also be a supplier if it has direct contact with the buyer’s product creation teams and no other corporate office intervenes in the buyer-supplier relationship. Better Buying Index Report Spring 2018 Introduction 5
2. Methodology 6 Better Buying Index Report Spring 2018 Methodology
HOW WAS BBPPI Better Buying takes a continuous WHAT PURCHASING CREATED? improvement approach, by improving PRACTICES ARE RATED? and refining ratings, scorings, and Better Buying identified the data as more knowledge is acquired. The BBPPI rates buyers against purchasing practices that matter seven different categories of METHODOLOGY most to suppliers. After initial METHODOLODY purchasing practices: desktop research, additional data CHALLENGES was sourced from: 1. Planning and Forecasting Refining the research questions 2. Design and Development • Field research of critical buying down (from hundreds to a few 3. Cost and Cost Negotiation practices in Hong Kong, China, dozen) often involved excluding 4. Sourcing and Order Placement Bangladesh, Cambodia, and questions that stakeholders would 5. Payment and Terms Vietnam. presumably expect to see in 6. Management of the Purchasing evaluating purchasing practices. Process • Input from additional stakeholders Care was taken to avoid duplicate 7. CSR Harmonization through 40+ formal consultations. impact assessment. For example, • Supplier survey results which a question about design changes Suppliers are required to respond determined the availability of to finalized styles or those already to all questions to prevent them information and their willingness in production was not included. from rating buyers only in the areas to rate. This is because the key concerns where performance needs to be • A pilot study testing the ability associated with this practice had improved. This provides a robust to receive supplier ratings and been addressed in questions and fair evaluation of the business the value of the results for relating to whether enough time relationship buyers have with their distinguishing good and bad was offered for production and if suppliers. performance. the buyer was flexible in adjusting ship dates to maintain the necessary HOW ARE THE DATA A short and concise list of questions production time. COLLECTED AND was then drafted to address the VERIFIED? suppliers’ most important concerns. In addition, practices that the supplier could not directly observe Data are collected on an online The question and response were excluded, for example, platform built and hosted by Fair categories were designed to be problems stemming Factories Clearinghouse. High objective and draw on business data from interpersonal relationships levels of hardware and software suppliers already had or could make within buyer companies. The security, coupled with tightly defined available. The response categories supplier may be aware of these operating procedures, protect the of many questions can help to issues, but due to the second-hand data provided by suppliers. distinguish improvements over time. nature of the information are not Questions with a more dichotomous able to properly evaluate the impact ‘yes’ or ‘no’ response are combined on their business. High levels of hardware with extended response questions. and software security, The proprietary scoring applied to a single category of purchasing coupled with tightly defined practices also allows Better Buying operating procedures, to track improvements over time. protect the data provided by suppliers. Better Buying Index Report Spring 2018 Methodology 7
The BBPPI is supplier-centric The proprietary scoring system is HOW ARE THE DATA and focuses on empowering built into the data platform and when ANALYZED AND STARS and amplifying their voices in submitting the rating suppliers can AWARDED? order to address the impact instantly see the stars earned by the of poor purchasing practices buyer they have rated. Suppliers are Better Buying uses a 0 to 100-point on supplier ability to achieve encouraged to rate as many of their scoring system to calculate overall financial, environmental, and social buyers as possible. scores and scores for each category. sustainability goals. To obtain supplier After the Better Buying system participation, effort has gone into Before using the submitted ratings, scores each question and category approaching suppliers directly, Better Buying carries out a data of purchasing practices, a star without the intervention of buyers. verification and cleaning process ‘grading’ is applied to the scores as This has been facilitated through the whereby documents provided by follows (see Table 1). support of industry associations, key the supplier to prove a business relationship are reviewed and the Better Buying awards scores using a individuals in industry, word of mouth, plausibility of data is checked. 0 to 5-star rating system. and other approaches. Additionally, some buyers have engaged with us to invite their suppliers to participate. Supplier participation is completely NUMERICAL SCORE STARS AWARDED STARS AWARDED voluntary. 96-100 points 90-95 points 84-89 points The BBPPI is supplier- centric and focuses on 78-83 points empowering and amplifying 72-77 points their voices in order to 66-71 points address the impact of poor 60-65 points purchasing practices… 54-59 points 46-53 points Suppliers register on the Better Buying platform by creating a basic 37-45 points profile; they may designate up 36 or fewer points to four individuals to input data. Ratings for each buyer are created Table 1. Stars and corresponding numerical scores separately. The supplier chooses to ‘create a new rating’, selects the company they are rating, and uploads a document to demonstrate a business relationship within the last six months. They then complete the questionnaire specific to their business relationships with that buyer. 8 Better Buying Index Report Spring 2018 Methodology
Better Buying uses the weighting system outlined in Figure 1 to determine the weight of each WEIGHT IN OVERALL SCORE purchasing practices category in the overall score. METHODOLOGY CSR Harmonization Planning and After verification, Better Buying Forecasting downloads all approved ratings 10% submitted during the rating cycle Management of 15% the Purchasing and carries out additional analysis Design and Process 15% of the aggregated data. 10% Development Basic descriptive statistical analysis is conducted for the scores and 15% 20% Payment and responses to each question. Terms Cost and Cost Averages for the purchasing practice 15% Negotiation categories are based on scales from 0 to 100. Smaller averages Sourcing and reflect poorer purchasing practices Order Placement while larger averages reflect better purchasing practices. Standard deviation (SD) reflects the variability Figure 1. Weight of seven categories of purchasing practices to the overall Better Buying score of scores around the averages and gives an indication of the spread of buyer performance in a category. A larger SD indicates a wider range of responses and scores. PARTICIPATION IN Q4 A further 15 ratings of buyers whose 2017 RATING CYCLE orders had been products other than Analysis of variance (ANOVA) was apparel, footwear, and household also used to test for differences A total of 243 ratings were submitted textiles were also omitted. These on the basis of characteristics of in the first cycle of BBPPI data ratings have been withheld from this the buyers rated and suppliers collection carried out in Q4 2017. benchmark report as they are out submitting ratings, as well as simple of scope, but have been analyzed Ten ratings were rejected during linear regression examining the separately and made available to the the data verification and cleaning relationship between measures. buyers. phase. Ratings were rejected when duplicates were submitted, the Of the total 243 ratings submitted, supplier could not demonstrate a 218 were used in this benchmark current business relationship, or report. incorrect data was supplied. Better Buying Index Report Spring 2018 Methodology 9
About the buyers that were rated A total of 65 buyers across the industry were rated (see Table 2). Individual buyer ratings are not included in this report but have been made available to the buyer companies in cases where minimum numbers of ratings were received. APPAREL, ACCESSORIES APPAREL RETAIL DEPARTMENT STORES GENERAL RETAIL AND LUXURY GOODS (N=63) (N=9) (N=79) (N=67) 360 Sweater Company Abercrombie & Fitch Debenhams Retail Plc Sainsbury’s Supermarkets Ltd. Armani American Eagle Outfitters House of Fraser (Stores) Target Corporation Ltd. Canada Pooch Benetton S.p.A J.C. Penney Tesco Stores Ltd. Dimensions Bonmarché Ltd. Kohl’s Deparment Stores, Inc. The White Company (UK) Ltd. Fashion Pool GmbH Burberry Ltd. Macy’s, Inc. Walmart Fenix Group C&A Nordstrom, Inc. Hakro GmbH Charles Tyrwhitt Shirts Ltd. Hanes Destination Maternity Coorporation Helly Hansen AS Express Karen Millen Fashions Ltd. Gap Inc. Kate Spade, LLC Hobbs Ltd. L.L. Bean, Inc. Inditex Levi Strauss & Co. J. Crew Group Inc. Mammut Sports Group AG JP Boden & Co Ltd. Masai Clothing Company ApS Mark’s Work Wearhouse Ltd. Mountain Equipment Co-Op Peek & Cloppenburg KG New Balance International Sportsgirl Pty Ltd. Ltd. No Ordinary Designer Label The Cato Corporation Ltd. Pretty Green The Children’s Place PVH Corporation The Edinburgh Woollen Mill Ltd. Ralph Lauren Corporation The Talbots Inc. Rapha Racing Ltd. Urban Outfitters Reiss Ltd. White Stuff Seasalt Ltd. Strategic Partners Sugartown Worldwide LLC Tommy Bahama Group, Inc. Uber A/S VF Corporation W. L. Gore & Associates GmbH Whistles Ltd Table 2. Buyers rated during Q4 2017 by buyer type Note. ‘N’ refers to the number of ratings submitted. Companies in bold font engaged with Better Buying to invite suppliers to participate. 10 Better Buying Index Report Spring 2018 Methodology
Table 3 shows most buyers are LOCATION OF RATED BUYERS located in Europe/United Kingdom REGION AND COUNTRY FREQUENCY % (47.7%) and United States (47.7%). (N=65) Asia Pacific 3 4.6% METHODOLOGY Buyers were classified into Australia 1 1.5 four buyer types according to information from Standard & Poor’s Hong Kong 2 6.2 NetAdvantage Database, which uses Europe/UK 31 47.7 Standard Industrial Classification Denmark 1 1.5 (SIC) and the North American Germany 4 6.2 Industry Classification System Italy 1 1.5 (NAICS) to categorize companies for the purpose of investment research. Norway 2 3.1 Three classifications are taken from Spain 1 1.5 the NetAdvantage Database, while Sweden 1 1.5 ‘General Retail’ has been developed Switzerland 1 1.5 by Better Buying to correctly capture another group of retailers. The four United Kingdom 20 30.8 buyer types include: North America 31 47.7 Canada 3 4.6 • A pparel, Accessories, & Luxury United States 28 4.3 Goods: buyers (or brands) that develop, source, and then Table 3. Location of rated buyers wholesale their products to Note. This information is based on what the supplier submitted. retailers, but may also have direct retail sales. Companies As well as approaching suppliers in this category may also own directly to solicit participation, eight manufacturing facilities. buyers took leadership roles in the • Apparel Retail: buyers who sell Q4 2017 rating cycle (highlighted products they source and develop in bold in Table 2) by providing primarily through their own stores. their full or partial supplier lists and • D epartment Stores: buyers who invitations for their suppliers to sell multiple brands in their retail participate. Better Buying used the stores, and who may also develop information and invitation letters to and source private label products. contact suppliers and urged them to • G eneral Retail: buyers who sell take the opportunity to give honest multiple brands in their stores, and anonymous feedback. Several and may also develop private label buyers engaged in this process products. These buyers stock food, thanks to the encouragement general merchandise, housewares, of multi-stakeholder initiatives or other categories making them making commitments to responsible distinct from apparel retail and purchasing practices. department stores. Better Buying Index Report Spring 2018 Methodology 11
About the suppliers who submitted ratings Better Buying protects the anonymity of suppliers by withholding the identities of those who submit ratings and the raw data they provide. The ratings from 156 suppliers across 24 countries were grouped into regions, analyzed, and included in this benchmark report (see Table 4). SUPPLIER HEADQUARTER REGION AND COUNTRY FREQUENCY (N=156) % Asia Pacific 1 0.64 Australia 1 0.64 East Asia 36 23.08 Cambodia 4 2.56 Korea, Republic of (South Korea) 12 7.69 Malaysia 1 0.64 Taiwan 13 8.33 Thailand 3 1.92 Vietnam 3 1.92 EEMEA (Eastern Europe/Central and 7 4.49 Western Asia, Middle East, Africa) Mauritius 1 0.64 Tunisia 1 0.64 Turkey 5 3.21 China/Hong Kong 51 32.69 China 22 14.10 Hong Kong 29 18.59 South Asia 20 12.82 Bangladesh 1 0.64 India 17 10.90 Pakistan 1 0.64 Sri Lanka 1 0.64 US/Canada 23 14.74 Canada 4 2.56 United States 19 12.18 Western Europe/UK 18 11.54 France 1 0.64 Ireland 1 0.64 Italy 1 0.64 Portugal 7 4.49 Sweden 2 1.28 United Kingdom 6 3.85 Table 4. Location of supplier headquarters 12 Better Buying Index Report Spring 2018 Methodology
Suppliers were asked to indicate SUPPLIER BUSINESS FREQUENCY % their business model (see Table 5). MODEL (N=156) Factory owners 111 71.15 Of those suppliers owning factories, Licensee/Agent/Vendor 59 37.82 METHODOLOGY the average number of factories Brand/Wholesaler 21 13.46 owned was just over four and the average number of workers Table 5. Supplier business model employed in those factories during Note. Suppliers could pick more than one business model. the high season was 5,672 (see Table 6). CHARACTERISTICS AVERAGE SD MINIMUM MAXIMUM Suppliers maintained a fairly large (N=111) number of customers. The average No. of factories owned 4.15 4.74 1 24 is skewed higher because of the Total number of workers 5671.77 10091.78 23 60000 large customer base held by a few at factories owned by suppliers with unique business supplier (during high season) models (see Table 7). The median Total number of workers 5296.93 9618.06 20 55000 number of customers was 20 and at factories owned by the average buyer-supplier business supplier (during low relationship spanned fewer than 10 season) years (see Table 8). Table 6. Factory characteristics CUSTOMERS AVERAGE SD MINIMUM MEDIAN MAXIMUM (N=218) No. of different 39.32 100.94 2 20 1300 customers in the last 12 months Table 7. Number of different customers YEARS AVERAGE SD MINIMUM MAXIMUM (N=218) No. of years of relationship 9.42 7.27 1 37 Table 8. Years of business relationship supplier has with buyer Better Buying Index Report Spring 2018 Methodology 13
3. Scores and Ratings 14 Better Buying Index Report Spring 2018 Scores and Ratings
Table 9 outlines the scores of In Q4 of 2017 the average overall the 218 submitted ratings from Better Buying score for buyers was the Q4 2017 rating cycle. Color 2.5 stars out of 5, but the scores The industry benchmark SCORES AND RATINGS differentiates between good assigned to individual companies does not represent scores of between 4 to 5 stars varied widely, from a low of 0 stars a standard of good (green), average scores of 2 to 3.5 to a high of 4.5 stars (see Table 9). performance, it simply stars (turquoise), and poor scores The best performing category was in indicates average industry of 1.5 stars or less (purple). It is Payment and Terms (4.5 stars), while performance during the important to note that the industry the worst performing category was rating period. benchmark does not represent a in Sourcing and Order Placement standard of good performance, it (0 stars).2 simply indicates average industry performance during the rating As we begin to recognize individual period. companies with higher ratings and identify their best practices, these buyers will provide a roadmap for others to follow. BETTER BUYING SCORE AVERAGE ALL SUBMITTED RATINGS (N=218) Overall Planning and Forecasting Design and Development Cost and Cost Negotiation Sourcing and Order Placement Payment and Terms Management of the Purchasing Process CSR Harmonization Table 9. Overall Better Buying scores and average scores across seven categories of purchasing practices (0 to 5 stars). 2 The numerical scores associated with the star ratings can be found in Table A1 of the Appendix. Better Buying Index Report Spring 2018 Scores and Ratings 15
4. Key Findings In this section, we go beyond the stars and look at purchasing practices in more detail. 16 Better Buying Index Report Spring 2018 Key Findings
BEST BUYER To calculate this rating, suppliers PERFORMANCE IS IN were asked about the various ways Nearly one-quarter of PAYMENT AND TERMS buyers may use to avoid paying in suppliers reported their full. The score indicates whether Payment and Terms, which measures the buyer treats its suppliers fairly buyers used various tactics KEY FINDINGS whether suppliers are paid on when it comes to the payment and to get out of paying in full… time and at the price agreed in the terms of the orders. As is the case in contract, was the best performing many buyer-supplier relationships, Where a bill is paid on time, it category across the board. It failure to adhere to the payment and doesn’t necessarily mean it was received an average score of 4.5 terms of the order can put financial paid in full. Nearly one-quarter of stars, with scores ranging from 0 to strain on suppliers and increase suppliers reported their buyers used 5 stars. risks throughout the supply chain. In various tactics to get out of paying addition, failure to pay on time can in full, for reasons that had nothing be a leading indicator of bankruptcy, to do with supplier performance The best performance was information which will be helpful for (see Table 10). in Payment and Terms, suppliers and financial partners. which measures whether An optional question in the Q4 2017 Most suppliers (92.7%) reported suppliers are paid on time rating cycle asked ‘Beyond paying their buyers paid the bills on time. the bill on time and in full, what do and at the price agreed in For those that were late, delays good Payment and Terms practices the contract. ranged from 10 to 180 days, with an look like?’ The responses indicated average of 38-day delay (SD = 48.75). that going beyond the basics and providing some favorable terms for the supplier would be ideal. Some PAYMENT REDUCTION FREQUENCY % OF ALL favorable practices from buyers PRACTICES (N=218) SUBMITTED RATINGS included: Discounts/rebates required by the buyer 22 10.1% after price was agreed • P aying sample invoices before the Late or unsubstantiated claims of quality 12 5.5 samples ship (8.3%) defects • I ssuing letters of credit so that Requirement to provide discount or switch 10 4.6 suppliers are paid promptly and currency used in the order due to currency avoid having to take an external fluctuations line of credit at high interest rates Reduction in payment due to price drop in 6 2.8 (6.9%) raw materials • P aying for volume orders in full on Reduction of payment for arbitrary 4 1.8 administrative procedures or before shipment (4.1%) Other 15 6.9 • P aying deposits on volume orders (0.9%). Buyer did not use practices to avoid full 167 76.6 payment Table 10. Practices used to avoid full payment Better Buying Index Report Spring 2018 Key Findings 17
Better Buying is making some ORDER changes to the questions and RISK-TO-REWARD scoring of the Payment and Terms North American buyers category for the upcoming rating (0.5) had better scores Order Risk-to-Reward (ORR) measures how much monthly cycle to better capture these good on Sourcing and Order practices. Advance payment and Placement than buyers in unit volume varies from favorable terms will be scored, the average order over the Europe/UK (0 stars) or Asia and a new question on payment year, and provides a clearer of sample invoices will be added. Pacific (0 stars). understanding of the volatility These changes mean scores for this in the month-to-month Do buyers reward suppliers category are likely to differ in the relationship. ORR is based on for compliance to their codes next industry benchmark report. the coefficient of variation, of conduct? More than 60% which is calculated by dividing WORST BUYER of suppliers reported that no SD of the month-to-month PERFORMANCE IS IN incentives were received for their order volume during the year SOURCING AND ORDER compliance to buyers’ codes of by the average of those orders, PLACEMENT conduct (see Table 11). This puts and multiplying the figure by compliant suppliers’ costlier 100 to convert the scores to a Sourcing and order placement operations in head-to-head percentage. encompasses two topics: competition with suppliers who may be doing little to ensure the health The risk part of the equation 1. Do buyers reward suppliers for and safety of their workers. underscores the challenges compliance to their codes of suppliers face in adjusting to conduct? dramatic peaks and troughs of 2. T o what extent do month-to- orders. The reward part of the month orders fluctuate? More than 60% of equation considers the average suppliers reported that no order size received from the Sourcing and Order Placement incentives were received buyer with recognition that was the worst performing category for their compliance to larger volume is generally more across the board, with an average beneficial to suppliers. buyers’ codes of conduct. score of 0 stars and the highest score reaching only 3.5 stars. Suppliers having no risk, or an ORR of 0 would be the best Scores for individual buyers were case scenario. In scoring this, dependent on where the buyer orders that are primarily basic was headquartered. Buyers in products are differentiated from North America (0.5 stars) received those that are primarily fashion better scores in Sourcing and Order products because suppliers Placement than buyers in Europe/UK acknowledge that there are no (0 stars) or in Asia Pacific (0 stars). 3 fashion products without order volatility. 3 Further details on that analysis can be found in Table A2 of the Appendix. 18 Better Buying Index Report Spring 2018 Key Findings
To what extent do month-to-month INCENTIVES FREQUENCY % OF ALL orders fluctuate? Having too much (N=218) SUBMITTED RATINGS business in some months and none Premium prices 7 3.2% or too little in other months makes it difficult for suppliers to plan and Larger volume 55 25.2 KEY FINDINGS maintain a workforce. More favorable mix of products 24 11.0 Consistent minimum volume of production 23 10.6 In sharing information about the per month volume of orders they received every Buyer-paid training for skill building/ 17 7.8 month from their buyers, it becomes capacity development easy to understand how challenging Option to set higher minimum order level 10 4.6 it is for suppliers to plan production Other incentive 4 1.8 with erratic shifts of volume from No incentives were provided 132 60.6 month-to-month. To compare the vastly different volume of orders from buyers, we have calculated Table 11. Incentives provided to suppliers for compliance/CSR the Order Risk-to-Reward (ORR). Across all suppliers, the average ORR was 102% but with quite a bit of variability experienced by suppliers. ORR ranged from a low of 0 to a high of 346% (See Table 12). FREQUENCY (N=218) % OF ALL SUBMITTED RATINGS ORDER RISK TO REWARD % BASIC ORDERS FASHION BASIC ORDERS FASHION (70% OF ORDERS (30% (70% OF ORDERS (30% RATINGS) OF RATINGS) RATINGS) OF RATINGS) (N=153) (N=65) (N=153) (N=65) ORR=0 8 2 5.2% 3.1% ORR=1-20 6 4 3.9 6.1 ORR=21-40 16 8 10.5 12.3 ORR=41-60 26 8 17.0 12.3 ORR=61-80 22 9 14.4 13.8 ORR=81-100 16 6 10.5 9.2 ORR=101-120 15 7 9.8 10.8 ORR=121-140 8 4 5.2 6.2 ORR=141-160 3 2 1.9 3.1 ORR=161 or more 33 15 21.6 23.1 Table 12. ORR for basic and fashion orders Better Buying Index Report Spring 2018 Key Findings 19
Figure 2 shows an example where monthly orders fluctuate from a low MONTHLY ORDER VOLUME FLUCTUATIONS of 20,000 to a high of 800,000 units per month, or 137% according to 900,000 Better Buying’s ORR measure. A high 800,000 ORR indicates inconsistent month- 700,000 to-month ordering; in this case, risk 600,000 Unit volume that is over 100 times the reward. 500,000 400,000 ORR differed by the region where 300,000 buyers were located. More steady 200,000 and consistent business was 100,000 reported as coming from buyers in 0 North America, who had an average 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 ORR of 85.4% (SD=72.5). This Months compares with volatile average orders coming from buyers based in Figure 2. Sample monthly order volume fluctuations Europe/UK (ORR=123.8%, SD=78.9) and Asia Pacific (ORR=144.1%, SD=82.8). 4 What happens as a result of In addition, ORR differed depending inconsistency in monthly volume? on where the suppliers were More steady and consistent Some suppliers indicated they were headquartered. Suppliers located business was reported reluctant to be completely honest in East Asia (all countries except as coming from buyers in about how monthly order fluctuation China/Hong Kong) experienced North America. impacted working conditions (an lower ORR/less volatility in orders optional question in this first rating (average of 73.2%, SD=69.9) than What explains these regional cycle which will be scored in the suppliers located in China/Hong differences? One reason may be future). Over 42% indicated that Kong (average ORR of 116.4%, that suppliers headquartered in the month-to-month variability SD=75.5) and Western Europe/UK, Europe/UK are viewed by European they experienced in buyer orders where suppliers experienced the buyers as ‘domestic’ suppliers, able did not impact working conditions most volatility of all regions (average to quickly respond to unexpected (see Table 13). Others reported of 155.6%, SD=100.4). 5 needs, even though their production a range of impacts, including: may be scattered all over the world. overtime within the law or code In addition, buyers may assume that requirements, overtime in excess the vast capabilities and resources of law or code requirements, hiring of suppliers in China/Hong Kong of temporary workers, unauthorized make them better able to respond subcontracting, reduced hours/ to dramatic peaks and troughs in underemployment, and layoffs/ production. retrenchment of workers. 4 Information about the statistical testing is available in Table A3 of the Appendix. 5 See Table A4 in the Appendix for more information about the statistical testing. 20 Better Buying Index Report Spring 2018 Key Findings
While it is difficult to imagine IMPACTS ON WORKING CONDITIONS FREQUENCY % OF ALL a fashion industry without any (N=218) SUBMITTED RATINGS variability, we did observe some Subcontracting approved by the 14 6.4% low ORR for fashion products in this buyer round of data collection. With this KEY FINDINGS Overtime within the law or code 86 39.4 information, we can start to identify requirements the leading factors which contribute Hiring of temporary/casual labor 45 20.6 to inconsistent orders and work with buyers to help improve their Unauthorized subcontracting 8 3.7 purchasing practices. Overtime in excess of law or code 21 9.6 requirements PLANNING AND Inability to meet wages and social benefit 7 3.2 FORECASTING IS IN requirements CRITICAL NEED OF Reduced hours/underemployment 29 13.3 IMPROVEMENT Layoffs/retrenchment of workers 14 6.4 Other impact 8 3.7 Improvements in the Planning and Forecasting category are needed. No impact on working conditions 93 42.7 Planning and Forecasting measures the extent to which buyers include Table 11. Impacts of month-to-month order variability on working conditions suppliers in product order plans, as well as the accuracy of the buyers’ planned orders compared with orders actually placed. Planning and Forecasting received NUMBER OF DAYS FORECAST WAS RECEIVED IN ADVANCE OF ORDER PLACEMENT an average score of 1.5 stars, with the scores ranging from 0 to 5 stars. While the majority of suppliers 6.4% (83.9%) reported receiving 16.1% 6.4% 180+ days forecasts (or some other form 6% 150-179 days of production insight) from their 120-149 days buyers, they also indicated they had 10.1% not been received far enough in 13.3% 90-119 days 60-89 days advance. About a quarter reported 30-59 days that the forecast was received 23.9% only 30 to 59 days in advance of 17.9% 29 days or less order placement (see Figure 3). No forecast provided in advance In contrast, 18.8% of all supplier ratings reported buyers provided a forecast 120 days or more in advance of order placement. Figure 3. Days forecast was received in advance of order placement Better Buying Index Report Spring 2018 Key Findings 21
In some instances, when capacity WHAT DOES was booked in advance it did not INACCURATE match up with the actual orders What is more concerning FORECASTING LOOK received. Nearly 24% of all suppliers than accuracy of LIKE AND HOW DOES reported that the actual orders forecasting was that IT POTENTIALLY varied by +/- 10% or less, which is nearly 4 out of 10 buyers IMPACT WORKERS? a level of accuracy all buyers should didn’t ask their suppliers strive for. Another 22.5% of the to reserve capacity in If the buyer reserves capacity ratings showed the forecast was for 100,000 units and comes advance. This confirms that within +/- 11-20% (see Figure 4). in 40% over, the supplier now a large amount of business needs to find space to produce comes from buyers chasing What is more concerning than the 40,000 more units. Even with accuracy of forecasting is that nearly last-minute production… 20% difference, the supplier four out of 10 buyers didn’t ask their is still looking for ways to suppliers to reserve capacity in produce 20,000 more than advance. This confirms that a large planned. What are the options? amount of business comes from Overtime… subcontracting… buyers chasing last-minute production hiring temporary labor. for styles they had not anticipated in advance or those selling more Suppliers may be fortunate rapidly than expected. Open-to-buy enough to create capacity by is an increasingly large part of buyers’ pushing back the ship date business and a challenging one for of another order. Or the order suppliers. itself may be much smaller than anticipated. If the supplier commits only a portion of its VARIATION OF ORDERS COMPARED WITH capacity in advance, they may CAPACITY RESERVED FOR THE BUYER be able to accommodate larger than expected orders. This is 40 risky too, as the order may fall 36.7 35 short and leave workers with 30 nothing to do, except look for a % of ratings 25 23.4 22.5 job at a busy factory elsewhere. 20 15 10 7.8 5 3.2 1.8 1.8 0.5 0.9 0.9 0.5 0 0 +/- +/- +/- +/- +/- +/- +/- +/- +/- +/- +100% No 10% 11-20% 21-30% 31-40% 41-50% 51-60% 61-70% 71-80% 81-90% 91-99% or more capacity or less booked in advance Extent of order variation % of all submitted ratings (n=218) Figure 4. Accuracy of capacity booked versus orders received 22 Better Buying Index Report Spring 2018 Key Findings
HELP NEEDED IN DESIGN Half of all suppliers indicated When tech packs are delivered late, AND DEVELOPMENT that 90-100% of tech packs incomplete, or with inaccuracies were delivered accurately and on there are delays in production. Design and Development received an time. Tech packs act as a recipe Subsequent problems arise if the average score of 2.5 out of 5 stars. The book for supplier costing and free on board (FOB) price has already KEY FINDINGS scores ranged from 0 to 5 stars which production. They contain detailed been locked and the specifications indicates some companies are far specifications for materials including require more costly than anticipated outperforming others. fiber content, weight of fabrics, techniques or materials. seam types, stitch counts, trim and Design and Development measures the embellishment details, as well as lateness or inaccuracy of technical and size measurements and quality production details provided to suppliers control indicators. by buyers. This category also covers the frequency with which suppliers receive orders for products they develop. More than one-third of suppliers indicated that they received orders for fewer than 40% of the products Scores in Design and Development they developed. This is a low hit rate given the time and varied according to the region where resources that go into development. the supplier was headquartered. Suppliers based in China/Hong Kong suffered from lower buyer performance % OF ORDERS RECEIVED AS COMPARED in Design and Development (2 stars), WITH PRODUCTS DEVELOPED (HIT RATE) 40 as compared with suppliers based in 35 36.2 South Asia (3 stars) and in Western 30 % of ratings 25 Europe/UK (3 stars). 6 20 15 13.3 10.1 10 7.8 8.7 7.3 6 6.4 4.1 The vast majority of suppliers (95.9%) 5 0 were developing products for the buyers 100% 90-99% 80-89% 70-79% 60-69% 50-59% 40-49% 39% Did not they rated, yet infrequently won the Orders received for products developed (hit rate) or less develop products volume order for those products. Over % of all submitted ratings (n=218) for the buyer a third of suppliers indicated that they Figure 5. Hit rate on products developed for the buyer received orders for fewer than 40% of the products they developed, a low hit rate given all the time and resources that go into development. In contrast, % OF TECH PACKS DELIVERED ACCURATELY AND ON TIME just 6% of suppliers received orders 38.5 for every product they developed for a 40 35 buyer and a further 13.3% of suppliers 30 % of ratings 25 22.9 reported receiving orders on nine out of 20 10 products they had developed. 7 15 12.4 11 10 5.5 5 4.1 2.3 1.8 0.9 0.5 0 0 6 See Table A5 in the Appendix for details. 100% 90-99% 80-89% 70-79% 60-69% 50-59% 40-49% 30-39% 20-29% 10-19% Less than 7 Some suppliers produce samples for pay 10% % of tech packs without an expectation of receiving volume orders. Currently, however, Better Buying % of all submitted ratings (n=218) requires suppliers to have volume orders to demonstrate a business relationship with the Figure 6. Accurate and on time delivery of tech packs buyer being rated. Better Buying Index Report Spring 2018 Key Findings 23
DO PRICES SET BY NEGOTIATION STRATEGIES THAT PRESSURE BUYERS COVER SUPPLIERS TO ACCEPT LOWER PRICES COMPLIANT PRODUCTION? • Take it or leave it—meet the • Continuing to negotiate prices target cost or the supplier will after bulk production has started The Cost and Cost Negotiation not win the order • Threatening to move production category evaluates whether suppliers • Allowing short response times of existing programs or cutting are given enough funds to meet all to price demands orders in the future the buyer’s expectations, including production costs, and compensation • Using an online bidding strategy • Asking for price commitments for workers that meet buyer codes of versus a ‘partnership’ negotiation based on a larger volume than conduct and legal requirements. strategy actual quantity ordered • Comparing suppliers only on • Making changes to product Cost and Cost Negotiation received an price instead of a full range of specifications after FOB price is average score of 3.5 stars, with scores attributes locked ranging from 0 to 5 stars. • Sharing competitors’ bids or • Making changes to terms (e.g., pressure to meet competitor payment, ship dates, quantities, Under half of suppliers (38.1%) costs from across different factories) after issuing purchase indicated that the prices they received countries order for all of their products covered • Requiring supplier to meet • Persistently calling or emailing, compliant production. An additional specific elements of other asking for lower price, multiple four out of 10 said 80 to 99% of their suppliers’ cost structure rounds of negotiation, or other orders were priced to cover compliant • Demanding across the board fatigue producing tactics production. The remaining 20.6% price cuts from previous orders • Using threatening language or received a large amount of orders or years negotiating in an angry tone where the costs were too low to cover compliant production (see Figure 7). • Demanding level prices be maintained from year to year with How do suppliers end up with orders no consideration for inflation that don’t cover all the costs of production? A supplier may accept an order at a lower price in the hope of snagging a major buyer’s business for the future, or they may do so in order Over 43% of suppliers to keep their workforce employed in reported experiencing periods where orders were less than high pressure negotiating anticipated. strategies. Buyers’ negotiation strategies are also a leading factor in Cost and Cost Negotiation ratings. Over 43% of suppliers reported experiencing high pressure negotiating strategies (see box to the left). Negotiation strategies were not taken into consideration in this cycle of data collection but will be 24 Better Buying Index Report Spring 2018 Key Findings
incorporated when calculating Cost and Cost Negotiation scores moving PERCENT OF ORDERS RECEIVED AS COMPARED forward. WITH PRODUCTS DEVELOPED (HIT RATE) 40 38.1 35 Some regional differences were KEY FINDINGS 30 % of ratings 25 22 observed in the ratings for Cost 20 19.3 and Cost Negotiation. First, scores 15 7.9 10 varied depending on the region in 5 3.7 2.8 0.9 1.4 0.9 3.7 0 0.5 0 which the buyer was headquartered. 100% 90-99% 80-89% 70-79% 60-69% 50-59%40-49% 30-39%20-29% 10-19% 5-9% Less Buyers headquartered in Europe/ than Percent of orders 5% UK (4 stars) had better costing % of all submitted ratings (n=218) practices than those headquartered in North America (3.5 stars). 8 Figure 7. Orders priced for compliant production may suggest that buyers are not Scores on Cost and Cost Negotiation Buyers headquartered in complying with increased labor also varied significantly according to Europe/UK (4 stars) had costs. Better Buying was unable to the region where the supplier was better costing practices determine whether the largest orders headquartered. Suppliers based in than those headquartered placed in the countries outlined in East Asia reported that their buyers’ in North America (3.5 table A7 (Appendix) was due to buyers Cost and Cost Negotiation strategies directing them to do so, or because were the worst (2.5 stars). Buyers stars). the suppliers were turning to their whose suppliers were based in lowest price options. Nevertheless, China/Hong Kong, US/Canada and Second, scores varied according to price pressures are being felt more Western Europe/UK all received 4 the region of the world in which the acutely by the factories and workers in stars and buyers whose suppliers buyer’s largest order was placed.9 these countries. were based in South Asia earned Suppliers reported more price 3.5 stars. Suppliers in East Asia may pressure coming from buyers whose have higher overhead costs, making largest orders were placed in East compliant pricing even more difficult Asia (Cambodia, Indonesia, Malaysia, The larger number of when buyers negotiate prices across Thailand, and Vietnam). The scores orders being produced in multiple regions. were significantly lower (2.5 stars) Cambodia and Vietnam… than when the largest orders were where labor costs have placed in China/Hong Kong (4 stars), risen dramatically suggests South Asia (4 stars), or US/Canada (4 stars).10 The higher volume of orders that buyers’ pricing may being produced in Cambodia and not be keeping up with Vietnam (East Asia region), where the inflationary changes in labor costs have risen dramatically, these producing countries. 8 Refer to Table A2 of the Appendix. 9 Statistical details can be found in Table A6 of the Appendix. 10 Details of the locations where rated buyers’ largest orders were produced is in Table A7 of the Appendix. Better Buying Index Report Spring 2018 Key Findings 25
HOW ARE BUYERS MANAGING THE KEY MILESTONES IN TIME AND ACTION CALENDARS PURCHASING PROCESS? • Hand-off of detailed style • H and off of tech pack for bulk Managing the Purchasing Process information for design proto production received an average score of 3.5 with samples (e.g. initial Tech Pack • R elease of purchase order scores ranging from 0 to 5 stars. or detailed sketch and material • O rdering bulk production descriptions) materials This category assesses the amount • Ordering proto sample materials • O rdering or technical details for of time offered to the supplier during • Comments on fit/proto samples packaging (e.g. labels, hang tags, development and production. Buyers • Trims and artwork sample instructions) for bulk production are required to complete all key actions approvals • F it sample approval outlined in a Time and Action (TNA) Calendar specific to the production • Lab dips/color sample approvals • M aterial/s approval cycle. • Wash/finishing sample approvals • S ize set appoval • Style consolidation and release • F inal pre-production sample Nearly all suppliers (95.9%) reported of sale sample order sign-off that TNA calendars were used by their • Ordering sales sample materials • Q uality testing approvals buyers and the majority (86.2%) found • Sales sample approvals (production test of fabric, that the calendar, or the contract terms, • Quality testing approvals material, garment, etc.) provided enough time for production. These figures provide a good starting (development test of fabric, • T op of production sample point. However, it is concerning that material, garment, etc) approvals nearly 14% of ratings indicate there is • Bulk order confirmation • F inal inspection approval not enough time for production from • Bulk order quantity forecast • S hipping sign-off the start. It is concerning that To ensure a smooth production Suppliers revealed that it is often process, buyers should meet the deadlines in the development or pre- nearly 14% of ratings deadlines as outlined in the TNA production stages that are missed. To indicate there is not calendar. The ratings indicated that just better understand which deadlines are enough time for production half of all buyers met their deadlines most often missed and to help buyers from the start. 90% or more of the time (applicable improve in this category, this measure to a buyers largest orders only), and will be altered for future rating cycles. 15.6% of those met all the deadlines in their TNA calendars (see Figure 8). Worryingly, 22% of buyers failed to meet deadlines more than 79% of the time. 26 Better Buying Index Report Spring 2018 Key Findings
From the data, we can see that PERCENT OF CALENDAR DEADLINES MET most buyers are adhering to their 40 responsibilities of providing enough 34.4 time for production and adjusting 35 shipping dates or prices when KEY FINDINGS 30 28 needed. Just 8.7% of the buyers 25 responsible for delays did not 20 15.6 amend the ship dates or prices % of ratings 15 (see Table 14). 10 7.3 6 5 4.1 2.3 2.3 0 100% 90-99% 80-89% 70-79% 60-69% 50-59% 40-49% Less From the data, we can than 5% see that most buyers Percent of calendar deadlines met are adhering to their % of all submitted ratings (n=218) responsibilities of Figure 8. Calendar deadlines met providing enough time for production and adjusting shipping dates or prices when needed. FLEXIBILITY AND ACCOUNTABILITY FREQUENCY % OF ALL FOR DELAYS (N=218) SUBMITTED RATINGS When buyers are not accountable No changes/requirements/performance 79 36.2% in ensuring adequate production failures made by the buyer or nominated time, suppliers incur the unexpected suppliers necessitated flexibility/ accountability to ensure adequate costs and associated risks to make production time up for lost time. This can often lead The buyer was flexible in adjusting 120 55.0 to unauthorized subcontracting, shipping dates and/or prices to ensure unpaid overtime, or the supplier adequate production time having to pay for costly air shipment. The buyer was responsible for delays but 19 8.7 did not amend ship dates or prices Table 14. Buyer flexibility and accountability for delays Better Buying Index Report Spring 2018 Key Findings 27
You can also read