Australian Free-range Snail Production - Snail Farming Information Service
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This visual presentation demonstrates the technique of establishing a free-range snail farm in Australia. It explains the value of the biological cycle of breeding snails as the most ethical and sustainable method of raising snails and how to purge and process snails to ensure a high-quality end product. It provides insight on how to produce better tasting snails than those raised in overcrowded enclosures by optimising the welfare and health of snails. It complements the CODE OF PRACTICE Australian Free- range Snail Farming and Australian Free-range Snail MARKETING STRATEGIES Read these documents at www.snailfarming.net Scroll down to ‘Information’. 2
Aim of the Code of Practice To emphasise that free-range snail production is a sustainable farming practice. Please read To highlight free-range snail farming as the most acceptable and moral method of snail production and has a positive influence on the quality of snails. To encourage the application of organic and biodynamic principles to further enhance the biological cycle of raising snails. To discourage intensive snail growing and fattening in overcrowded conditions in small enclosures or greenhouses (backyard operations). 3
Reason for free-range snail production The natural physiological characteristics of snails are enriched by a free-range environment. It it promotes excellent metabolic and respiratory functions for the snails ― plenty of space and natural air circulation. To understand the needs of the physiology, growth, reproduction, nutrition and snail behavior. 4
Free-range versus intensive snail production Improved breeding environment. No overcrowding problems Higher reproduction rates. Lower mortality. Clean environment, so no excess slime, faeces or odour. Optimises the health and welfare of the snails. Produces wholesome, consistent sized, top-quality snails. Results in a better product. Fine example of snails bred in free-range snail production unit 5
Optimising welfare and health of snails Space to roam free prevents over-crowding. Benefit of natural ventilation, sun and moon light, rain and the evening dew. Allowed to live according to nature, creating ecological balance between soil, plants and snails. Moral and ethical method of farming snails. Stress-free environment due to the natural biological cycle of breeding snails. Less human handling. Produces large numbers of consistent high-quality snail livestock. Foraging makes snails more tender 6
Compare the difference Snails raised in overcrowded Snails raised in free-range or open pastures conditions in small enclosures 7
Snails suitable for free-range snail production in Australia In Australia the domestic production of edible snails for the commercial market is Cantareus aspersus ─ formerly Helix aspersa — first described in Italy by Müller in 1774. It is a terrestrial snail and is herbivorous. It is known in Australia as the common brown garden snail (or ‘petit-gris’, meaning ‘little grey’). It is one of the most popular snails eaten snail in France, Italy and other European countries. 8
Climatic conditions C. aspersus adapt well to cooler regions up to 750m above sea level and endure frost and snow if given adequate crop shelter. Temperate regions of Australia and New Zealand with yearly temperature within the range minimum -4ºC to maximum 30ºC. C. aspersus are induced to aestivate when drought, heat and extreme cold slows their metabolic activity. They are not suitable for breeding in tropical or desert areas of Australia. 10
Benefits of applying organic principles Applying organic principles is an integral part of a free-range snail farm. An organic production system sustains the health of soils, ecosystems and snails. ◘ Crops are planted without the use ◘ Finished crops are ploughed back into of synthetic fertilisers. the ground as ‘green manure’ crops. ◘ No chemicals are used in the snail ◘ Physical controls are maintained for fields. unwanted weeds and pests. ◘ Crops are rotated to disrupt any ◘ Biological control using insectary soil-born diseases. plants attract ‘beneficial bugs’. ◘ Companion planting is encouraged. ◘ Working with the appropriate rhythmic influences of the moon for planting, ◘ Crops are planted densely to help cultivation, and harvesting snails. prevent weed growth and bird predation. ◘ Ecological benefits of natural sun and moon light, organic soil, rain and the evening dew. 11
Planting crops by the moon To follow biodynamic principles, plan the sowing of seeds to coincide with the fertile phases of the moon. Plans for seeding can be formulated by using lunar phases for sowing seeds so the connection between the solar system and natural biological cycles is maximized. Plant leafy vegetables when the moon is waxing and root vegetables when the moon is waning. Because the lunar phase is said to control the moisture in the soil, you will find that the seeds germinate quickly and the plants grow Use an astrological calendar as an strong and healthy in a relatively short time. easy guide to planting crops. 12
Good bug bed – Biological control of unwanted plant pests Improves natural balance and reduce harmful insect pest outbreaks. A ‘good bug bed’ is an excellent biological method of controlling aphids, scale, red spider mite, caterpillar and other pests without the use of chemicals. It also provides a natural nectar source that attracts the beneficial insects to help control unwanted pests. Some of the plants in the mix The best time to plant a ‘good bug bed’ is in late include annual and perennial winter so its biological control will be successful in flowers such as marigolds, controlling any pests that may appear in the crops alyssum, cosmos, Queen Anne’s grown for snails in mid-spring and summer. lace, red clover, dill and caraway. Plant the ‘good bug bed’ either inside the perimeter fence or outside it, as long as it’s close to the snail production area. 13
Minimum space requirements To ensure viable, commercial snail production, a minimum of 850 square metres to one hectare is needed to breed around 50,000 snails each season. This area allows room for crop and snail rotation and fallow areas. 14
Position of site North facing, level to slightly undulating land. Good drainage and protection from prevailing winds. 15
Preparing the site ◘ Mark out the designated area and clear land of weeds and other vegetation. ◘ Determine soil acidity by conducting a soil test. ◘ Add organic soil conditioner and composted material if necessary. ◘ Include fine grade garden limestone (calcium carbonate) if necessary. Soil should be slightly alkaline at pH level of around 7.5-8. Good preparation of the soil during initial establishment will prevent the germination of weed seeds and give a good base for planting of feed and shelter crops for the snails. 16
The perimeter fence After clearing the land, build the perimeter fence. The perimeter fence is the most important part of construction. It keeps burrowing animals, rodents and snakes and other unwanted pests out of the snail production area. Producers who have not erected an external fence have reported problems with rabbits and rodents. The outside of the galvanized fence must always be completely free of anything that climbing animals may use as a form of entry. All posts and other fencing materials should be attached to the inside surface of the galvanised iron sheets. There must be no holes or gaps so predators (large and very small) are able to get through. Once the area is clear of all weeds, the perimeter fence is placed around the entire area selected for snail production. Allow enough room for at least one metre of clear pathways on each side of the perimeter fence. 17
Constructing the perimeter fence This fence is important ◘ Construct an external fence of corrugated galvanised iron sheeting around the entire perimeter of the area designated for the snail production unit. Allow for future internal expansion. ◘ The galvanised sheeting should be at least 85cm in height and buried to a depth of 30cm. 18
Setting the perimeter fence into the ground Use a trenching Place the galvanized Attach the galvanized sheets machine to dig a trench iron sheets in the trench butt-joined in the corner with 30cm deep around the and drive in iron star pop-rivets over the right-angled perimeter. posts where the sheets sections of aluminium so there meet. are no gaps in the corners. ◘ Use pop-rivets to join the galvanized sheets and then bolt to the star posts. ◘ Use square section 100mm x100mm steel post in the corners. ◘ Pop-rivet right-angled sections of aluminum to the 100mm x 100mm posts. ◘ Allow enough room for at least one metre of clear pathways on each side of the perimeter fence. 19
Corners of the perimeter fence ◘ Butt the gal-iron panels closely to steel posts in each corner and seal behind with silicone (see arrow) so there are absolutely no gaps (even small ones) to be seen. 20
Adding a predator-free gate to perimeter fence ◘ Make two vertical cuts with tin snips into the middle of one of the galvanised iron panels of the perimeter fence – wide enough to 1 2 allow a rotary hoe to enter. ◘ The cuts are made from the top edge to just above ground level, so that this panel can be folded down to make a ramp. (see next page). ◘ Place two flat aluminium strips 75mm wide and 2mm thick each side of the cut panel – on the inside of the fence – so that half the strip is pop-riveted to the fixed panel and the other half bolted to the opening panel. ◘ The strips are necessary to cover the cuts so mice and other small predators cannot get through. 21
Gate access details ◘ To access the free-range area, the bolts on the opening panel only are undone, leaving the aluminium strip attached to the fixed panel. ◘ The panel is folded downwards to the ground that forms a temporary ramp for the rotary hoe to be wheeled into the free-range area. ◘ The ramp should never be left down for any length of time, even when operating machinery in the free-range area, to prevent predators or other animals entering. Perimeter fence — outside surface Perimeter fence— inside surface Aluminium strips bolted to fixed Panel folds outwards to make a and cut sides of panel on inside ramp on outside of fence of fence, so there are no gaps 22
Perimeter fence option ◘ Kangaroos are rarely a problem but if they are, a cyclone wire extension can be added above the galvanized iron fence. ◘ As an extra precaution, the addition of an electric out-rigger wire is recommended. ◘ Crops may offer a tempting meal for kangaroos and rabbits. Out-rigger hot wire attached to cyclone netting Cyclone netting above galvanised fence The outside of the galvanized area of the perimeter fence should be completely clear of any materials to prevent climbing predators 23
Internal fencing (snail fields) Once the perimeter fence is in place start constructing the internal fields. Internal fields or paddocks for housing are fenced with open weave shade cloth or wind break material to provide adequate air circulation and ventilation for essential respiration of the snails. The number of internal fields in this project is 10 to maximise the space and take advantage of north/south layout. Any number of fences can be constructed according to the Plan to join the mesh at the end of field so it can be allocated area. opened easily to allow rotary hoeing. NB: All internal fences can be erected at once or if time is an issue, construct only the first field for the breeders (reproduction field) and finish the rest later in the season (optional). 24
Setting out the internal fences ◘ As a guide, you need three growing fields for each reproduction field. ◘ Leave one metre of space between the perimeter fence and one metre of space between all the netting fields. ◘ Place iron posts a minimum of 2 metres apart. Reproduction field Growing field ‘Good bug bed’ 25
Constructing the internal fences ◘ Have a top pocket and two downward facing flaps sewn into the mesh by the shade cloth supplier while it is still in the roll. (The flaps help prevent snails going over the side). top pocket and top flap ◘ Incorporate the pocket and flap at the top and thread pocket with fencing wire so it can be attached to iron posts. ◘ Flaps should measure 20cm and are sewn in as pleats ― 40cm of material is allowed for each pleat. Second flap ◘ Dig a trench around the perimeter of each field. ◘ Place iron posts a minimum of 2 metres apart to support the mesh. Attach mesh to posts with remainder twitching wire. buried ◘ Roll up and bury the remainder of mesh material into the trench so the completed fence stands at least 70cm high. (You need to be able to climb over the netting). 26
Details of internal fencing mesh ◘ Buy good quality open-weave windbreak or shade cloth mesh with ultra violet block out. ◘ It can be purchased in rolls Flap 1 measuring 1.8m x 50m. Flap 2 ◘ Cheaper quality mesh is subject to stretching and damage from the elements. ◘ Use green or cream coloured mesh (black attracts heat). Remainder of material buried into the trench ◘ If using shade cloth buy minimum density usually around 30-50%. It’s not shade that is required but good air circulation. ◘ Ask the manufacturer of shade Pocket for wire cloth products to sew the flaps in as pleats. 27
Pathways ◘ Keep the pathways around the outside and inside of the perimeter fence and in between internal fields clear of any weeds or vegetation. ◘ Remove the weeds by hand or if necessary, spray the weeds with an organic herbicide. ◘ Some snails manage to climb out of the netting enclosures but they will usually return by daylight because of their territorial nature. ◘ However, if there is a clump of vegetation they are inclined to go only as far as the weeds rather than back to their field. 28
Water requirements for snail production Snails love rain and need water for hydration. Yes, we The soil needs to be kept like lots of moist for egg laying and water hatching. Sufficient water is needed to grow crops successfully. Water keeps the snails active (eating, breeding, growing). 29
Irrigation An irrigation system is recommended for watering plants and to encourage night-time activity of the snails. Overhead sprinklers, providing light misting, are more suitable than heavy watering to prevent the soil from becoming saturated. Incorporate the irrigation system in the early stage of establishment, either before or after erecting the internal fences. A filter should be attached to the irrigation system if water is sourced from a dam. 30
Food for free-range snails Snails require protein, fibre, vitamins and minerals including extra calcium for shell development. All snails need ad lib access to naturally-grown food, moisture and the advantage of the evening dew. Plants such as forage brassicas (cabbage family), hybrid turnip, plantain, dandelion, wild turnip, clover and silver beet contain necessary nutriments and are ideal for planting inside fields as a food source and habitat. Along with growing suitable plants for food, dry organic animal foods such crushed corn, bran, oats, full-fat soy mixture is an added supplement if necessary, and can be given to snails bred for human consumption as long as the formula does not contain antibiotics or any added chemicals. 31
Suitable food and shelter crops for free-range snails FOOD SHELTER ◘ White clover (Trifolium repens) (only newly hatched snails) ◘ White clover (Trifolium repens) ◘ Strawberry clover (Trifolium fragiferum) (only newly hatched snails) ◘ Strawberry clover (Trifolium fragiferum) ◘ Forage rape (Brassica napus) ◘ Chickory (Cichorium intybus) ◘ Forage brassica hybrids (Brassica campestris spp) ◘ Silverbeet (Beta vulgaris) ◘ Plantain (Plantago lanceolata) ◘ Sunflower (Helianthus annuus) ◘ Sunflower (Helianthus annuus) ◘ Lettuce (Lactuca sativa) ◘ White Radish (Raphanus sativus longipinnatus) (root only) ◘ Wild Turnip (Brassica rapa spp. Silvestris) ◘ Purple-top Turnip (Brassica rapa) 32
The most accepted plants by free-range snails ◘ Forage brassica ◘ Leafy turnip ◘ Cabbage and other plants from the Brassica family ◘ Plantain ◘ Silverbeet ◘ Lettuce ◘ Red or white clover ◘ Dandelion ◘ Chickory 33
Supplementary food with fresh vegetables During times of low feed or high density of juvenile snails, supplementary crops can be grown outside the snail production area, or Green waste leaves such as lettuce and cabbage can be sourced from local (preferably organic) fruit and vegetable suppliers. Purchase second-grade carrots (horse carrots) in 20kg bags as an additional supplement. Carrots are especially useful after snails come out of hibernation and at the start of the breeding season. 34
Supplementary feeding with grain ◘ A mix of grains such as maize, soybean, crushed corn and oats with the addition of calcium carbonate (fine grade garden lime) can be sprinkled onto concrete pavers measuring around 40cm x 40cm. ◘ . Place the pavers flush in the ground randomly in the enclosures for supplementary feeding of cereal grains. ◘ The pavers need to be flush to the level surface of the ground to prevent snails Pavers snails gathering on the sides or underneath the pavers. The pavers can be easily removed later. Never use wooden boards, polystyrene boxes or rocks in free-range snail fields as it encourages snails to congregate. This results in overcrowding and shell rasping and other problems. 35
Preparing the seed bed for snail food crops ◘ Open one end of the field and lay netting flat on the ground to allow a rotary hoe or other equipment to enter. ◘ Prepare the soil by rotary hoeing and rake over to prepare a seed bed. ◘ Plant seed in rills at 30cm row spacing. (Rill seeding takes a little more time than broadcasting but germination is better). ◘ Use the end of a broom handle to make rills and sprinkle the seeds quite heavily into the furrows. ◘ Cover with a thin layer of soil and then water gently. 36
Planting the seeds ◘ Planting seeds rather than seedlings is more economical for large areas that need to be planted densely. ◘ Rotate crops for each planting so the same plants are not planted in the same area of soil. ◘ ◘ Each field can have two different crops planted that can be rotated the following year ― e.g. brassica on one side, Plant seeds densely spinach on the other side – then rotated at the next planting. 37
Selective and controlled breeding of free-range snails Selective breeding Controlled breeding Like any animal raising activity, The traits you desire in your genetics in snail reproduction plays a snails must be conserved and major role in homogeneous the undesirable ones appearance and consistency in size. suppressed. Selective breeding is based on the This is done by repeatedly choice of parents with desirable traits selecting the best snails from to produce improved progeny ― size each generation to be the first, then colour of shell or flesh. parents of the next. Any mature snails that are undersize must be Selective breeding may not be a long- discarded. term panacea due to possible genetic throwbacks, so it’s important to focus Close monitoring for undesirable on the traits that you are looking for in traits (usually after about three – a snail and this is where ‘controlled four years) may require an breeding’ comes in. injection of a different strain to reduce any recessive genes that Fact: The colour of the flesh of snails is may occur. most influenced by genetics, not by the food it is given. 38
Selecting initial breeding stock Sourcing breeding stock The Biological cycle of breeding snails Initial breeding stock can be sourced from suburban gardens to create a genetic base. ◘ The biological cycle starts with the snails first selected for the Select only healthy-looking snails measuring initial breeding program. 30-32mm that display even growth patterns. Big snails breed bigger snails so it’s ◘ These are the snails that will important that only large snails are kept for form the foundation for a solid initial breeding. Discard undersize snails. genetic base. The progeny of this initial breeding stock ◘ It begins at conception and judged to have the best growth rates and finishes when adulthood is size are chosen for the next batch of reached and the snails starts breeders. to produce their own progeny. ◘ When the progeny reach Make sure the snails adulthood, the cycle begins again. selected for breeding have a hard edge on ◘ Snails must complete their the lips of their shells – to indicate maturity. biological cycle including winter hibernation, to ensure high fecundity and fertility. 39
Reproduction Mating begins in spring but can continue through to autumn if environmental conditions are met. Snails usually mate during the night and can take four to fourteen hours to complete. Around six to ten days after mating, the snail makes a hole in the soil where it lays its eggs in batches of any number from around 30-100 eggs at a time. C.aspersus is an hermaphrodite and each individual snail possesses both male and It then covers the hole with a female reproductive organs. mixture of soil and mucus before leaving to rest. During mating, mutual fertilisation takes place and one or both snails will usually lay eggs. 40
Oviposition – egg laying Soil needs to be friable for efficient oviposition The eggs are round and measure approximately 3mm in diameter. They are pearly white in colour and have a rubbery texture. The eggs usually hatch within three weeks of being laid and the newly hatched baby snails are exact replicas of the adult snails. The frequency of egg laying is subject to temperature, humidity and soil conditions. It’s estimated snails can lay several times during the breeding season under favorable environmental conditions ― let your snails breed at their own pace. 41
Stocking density Maximum ‘on ground’ stocking density Breeding snails 20 per sq m (Reproduction field) Juvenile snails 140 per sq m (Growing fields) Adult snails 80 per sq m (Holding fields) Free-range is about the maximum population size of the species that the environment (soil space) can sustain indefinitely. The freedom of enough ground area allows the snails to avoid each other’s slime trails and enjoy uncongested living space. Over-slimed ground and excess faeces can modify snail behaviour by putting out chemical signals like pheromones — detrimental to reproduction and growth rates in terrestrial snails. Snails raised in overcrowded enclosures produce fewer clutches of eggs or yield fewer eggs per clutch resulting in inferior adult snails. If you follow the ‘on ground’ stocking density recommendations, there will be no over-crowding problems as often is the case in intensive or greenhouse snail farming units. To avoid any unwanted traits that may result in decreased size and fertility from continuous line- breeding, a number of snails from another free-range breeder source can be introduced around every three to five years. 42
Factors that influence the growth of snails Many factors greatly influence reproduction and the growth of snails ◘ Population density ◘ Food ◘ Temperature and moisture ◘ Breeding technology. ◘ Stress Snails suffer stress as they are sensitive to noise and vibration, unhygienic and overcrowded conditions, irregular feeding and human handling. 43
Schedule for managing free-range snail production This schedule is a guide only. Planting of crops, reproduction and growing differ according to the climate and can be delayed if unsuitable climatic conditions prevail. It usually takes around six to eight weeks for crops to grow to suitable size for introducing or transferring snails FIRST SEASON April to July August/September ◘ Clear land and prepare soil. ◘ Construct internal fences. ◘ Erect perimeter fence. ◘ Work up soil with addition of garden lime (calcium carbonate) to prepare seed bed in preparation for planting. ◘ Plant out field 1 for reproduction. ◘ Plant ‘good bug bed’. Contd…. 44
Schedule for managing free-range snail production ...contd October (mid) ◘ When crops are around 25-30cm high introduce breeding stock. ◘ Don’t introduce new snails if it is raining and put off irrigating or watering on the first day/evening ―watering encourages them to escape. ◘ Monitor enclosures for any escapees and return them to the field. Brassica crop about 35-30cm and introducing ◘ The newly introduced snails should breeding snails. only take a few days to settle in and then the fields will become their territory. Only 20 breeding ◘ Place snails into the plants growing snails to the square metre in the middle of the fields. please! Contd…. 45
Schedule for managing free-range snail production ...contd February November ◘ Allow baby snails to grow ◘ Plant out fields 2, 3 and 4 for through March and April. growing out baby snails when they hatch. ◘ Towards the end of February and when all the juvenile snails have ◘ Breeding snails should be mating been transferred, harvest any and starting to lay eggs. mature snails for purging and cooking. Allow juvenile snails to December continue growing. ◘ Hatchlings and baby snails should be visible. Leave to grow until big March enough to transfer (about the size ◘ Supply supplementary food for of a five-cent piece). juvenile snails if necessary. January ◘. Clear all snails and old crops ◘ At the end of January/early from out field 1 and cover with February, transfer and distribute weed matting. baby snails that have hatched in field 1 to fields 2, 3 and 4 for ◘ Early in the month plant out fields growing. 5, 6 and 7 for snails that will be over-wintering. 46 Contd….
Schedule for managing free-range snail production ...contd April June ◘ Harvest any juvenile snails that ◘ At beginning of June, clear out all have reached maturity for purging empty fields and cover with weed and cooking. matting and leave fallow until ready to plant again. ◘ Keep the largest snails for next year’s breeders. ◘ Cover the fallow fields with weed matting to help deter weeds from May growing. ◘ Transfer snails kept for breeding next year to field 5 for over July/August wintering. ◘ Snails are in winter hibernation. ◘ Transfer other remaining snails to ◘ Cover the hibernating snails with fields 6 and 7. This is where the enviro-cloth. snails will remain for winter hibernation until transfer in spring ◘ Carry out field maintenance. for final growing out. The second season of production follows the pattern of the first year and for the following years to come. Remember to rotate crops and snails. 47
Winter hibernation When the temperature drops below ◘ Cover the snail fields with enviro-cloth around 5-6°C, snails start to close off (frost guard). It keeps the temperature the opening of their shells. of the soil up to approximately 7°C The cover is called an epiphragm warmer. and becomes hard and calcareous. ◘ Cover the fallow fields with weed matting Snails stay in hibernation until spring and is an important part of the biological cycle. Snail in hibernation Enviro-cloth cover Weed cloth cover 48
Maintenance management during snail season ◘ Trim crops that start to ◘ Monitor perimeter ◘ Remove any dead or go to seed to encourage fence for holes that decaying leaves from new growth. may indicate intrusion crops of frogs or mice. ◘ Keep pathways clear of weeds. ◘ Check internal fences for holes or weeds growing at the base. ◘ Return any snails that have climbed to top of internal fences. ◘ Check irrigation and spray nozzles. Flush filters. 49
Snail predators ◘ Lizards, especially blue-tongue lizards. Warning . ◘ Rodents (rats and mice). ◘ Frogs (some varieties). ◘ Toads. ◘ Ducks. ◘ Currawongs, butcherbirds, chicken hawks, owls and other birds. Predatory snail, Strangesta ◘ Beetles and centipedes. capillacea. The whorl and shell of this cannibalistic snail ◘ Carnivorous snails (shown here). is flatter than C. aspersus. It has a definite hole for its umbilicus – found on the underside of the shell. 50
Dealing with snail predators Birds ― threat from birds is unusual if crops are planted densely. Snails are nocturnal and retreat into the crops during the day, so are not visible to birds. Carnivorous snails ― make sure there are no carnivorous snails among the collected snails you introduce as initial breeding stock. Frogs ― remove by hand and relocate. Mice ― trap and remove. Using baits is not recommended. Lizards ― are never a problem if the perimeter fence has been constructed as described. Beetles Carabids ― members of this beetle Staphylinid beetles ― known for family are fast-moving predators and feeding on larvae and slug and are usually recognized by their prominent snail eggs. They are sometimes mandibles, large round eyes, slender, confused with earwigs but do not simple antennae and pungent odor. If have pincers. Remove by hand seen remove by hand and destroy. and destroy. 51
Harvesting snails ◘ Pick up snails by hand and place in ◘ The best time for harvesting is at dawn collection bucket, ready for transfer to and dusk, especially after rain or water purging shed or growing fields. misting. Make sure the shell edge is hard on the snails you pick up. 52
Tips for harvesting snails ◘ Use a measuring guide for snails Measuring guide ready for the market because it’s easy to become “snail blind” and sizing can become quite confusing. Cut notch 30mm wide from piece of wood. Snail should fit snugly in cut out area. If any space between ends of notch and ◘ Throw out some fresh or grain snail, then it’s not big enough. If it’s too big supplementary feed. The snails will to fit — it’s a bonus. gather together and can be easily picked up and transferred to other fields or to the purging bins. ◘ Pick snails off the sides of the netting fences after rain or watering. Fill a bucket with snails and count them as you go. Next time just fill the bucket to the same level and you will know approximately how many snails you are harvesting or transferring. 53
Big is better Soft lip Hard lip Mature snails are ready to harvest for the This snail has not reached maturity market. because the lip of its shell is still soft. It should be left to mature before They should measure 30mm absolute harvesting. mimimum measured across the base of the shell. Snails ready for harvesting should have a hard lip (or edge) of shell. 54
Purging snails – what it’s all about Purging is the removal of any soil and grit from the digestive system of the snails. It is the first step in preparing snails for sale. Snails are purged to make sure they are perfectly clean and safe for human consumption. The snails should remain Don’t trim whole. It is not necessary to trim any part of the snail whorl. This photo shows how snails should look after Process your own snails purging and processing. Perfectly clean and plump. to ensure quality control They are ready to use in recipe of choice. Visceral mass 55
Where to build the purging pod The purging area can be built utilizing the whole area of a shed or built as separate pod within an existing shed. 56
Please note – irrigation cost saving Where to build the purging pod The irrigation shown in the purging buckets was found to be superfluous. Only a hose with adjustable spray is necessary to wash the buckets and rinse the snails at the same time. 57
Inside the purging pod Snails are purged in clean containers without soil. Temperature sensor from Here the evaporative cooler is placed on a stand in front of temperature controller small window at opposite end to stable door that also provides air circulation. Refrigerated air The cooler is modified with a float valve and attached to conditioning is not mains water flow and the temperature controller is placed suitable as it dries out above. the atmosphere. Install a tap and hose inside the purging pod for washing out bins and floors. 58
Purging bins To accommodate the snails during the purging process use 25 litre white plastic bins. These bins are easy to clean and efficient management of snails is maximised. ◘ Drill several holes in the bottom edge of the bins for water and waste drainage. ◘ Cut a hole in the lid of the bins to leave a square hole. Cover with wire mesh (about 10mm) and secure with heavy duty staples on the inside of the lids. ◘ Attach a flexible security cord to the side of the rim of the bins to keep the lid in place. (When large numbers of snails congregate together on the lid, it can 59 easily come off).
Constructing the framework for bins Images next page ◘ Mount the purging bins on timber frames. ◘ Use household guttering along the rear and attached to the wall, to support the bottom edge of the bucket and for drainage from the buckets. ◘ The timber frame is used to support the bucket while it rests on the guttering. ◘ The guttering is sloped to the water outlet. ◘ Allow at least a 15° slope between the front timber edge and the guttering at the back to allow for drainage in the bucket. ◘ The framework holding the purging bins should hold them in a secure position to prevent the containers from rolling around. Otherwise add chocks on either side of the buckets to keep them secure. 60
Framework for bins Slope the frames and guttering towards the drainage outlet Drainage to outside or collection bin Slope the bin 15º towards the guttering for drainage. There should be no pooling of water in the bin. Guttering on back wall. Chock for bin support 61
The purging process ◘ Collect snails from fields and transfer to ◘ The snails are fed a purging mix of clean containers in a cool shed with organic unprocessed bran and/or wheat plenty of air circulation. germ for two days. ◘ Water must be available for misting, ◘ They must continue to be ‘purged’ for cleaning and evaporative cooling (if seven days to rid their digestive systems necessary) to maintain temperature of dirt and grit. around 16-18ºC. 62
Hygiene in the purging pod Hygiene in the purging pod is vitally important to maintain a clean environment for providing food for human consumption. ◘ Hose out bins to ◘ To make sure mice and ◘ Remove any dead and remove faeces, uneaten other unwanted pests dying snails. food and any dead snails. are not attracted to the purging pod, keep the Snails found on their floor clean and contain back are dead or dying. ◘ Thoroughly wash and all cereal food in a scrub bins before new covered bin. If there is a bad smell in the batches of snails are purging pod it usually introduced. indicates dead snails. 63
How to safely purge snails – day-by-day Harvested snails need to be purged for a total of seven days before processing. The best time to for purging process is late in the afternoon, just before dusk if possible. DAY 1 Place harvested snails in bins and spray with water only (anytime of the day) DAY 2 and 3 Remove snails carefully from each bin to the lid on shelf below. The snails will leave a lot of greasy, dark faeces so wash the bins well. Sprinkle purging bran on floor of bins replace snails, mist lightly with water, replace lid firmly. Day 4 Remove snails from each bin to the lid on shelf below. Wash out bins thoroughly. Return snails and mist with water. No purging bran. Day 5 and 6 Leave snails alone without food or water. Contd…. 64
How to safely purge snails – day-by-day …contd Day 7 Pack snails in lots of 50 into mesh bags and hang in a cool area with plenty of air circulation. Day 8 Cook the the snails in the bags of the morning of the eighth day. At the end of processing, pack into sterilised jars and they are ready to sell. Keep ‘in’ and ‘out’ date chart for purging snails. Shelf life from day of processing is nine days for fresh snails packed in spring water and refrigerated at 4 degrees. 65
The reason for processing snails for the market Because of diverse multicultural influences on Australian cuisine today, many chefs request ‘live’ snails. Sometimes those who request ‘live’ snails may feed them on unknown herbs or other food, to keep them longer. Therefore the guarantee of the healthy, properly purged and contaminant-free snails is compromised and the grower no longer has control of the health of the snails. You could be putting your business at risk. To ensure optimum quality and a safe, clean product…process your snails! Uncooked snails MUST NEVER be eaten….EVER Raw, uncooked snails can cause serious health risks. 66
About the preparation of processing snails for sale The purged snails are cooked and shelled. They are soaked in a mix of half salt and half vinegar to remove slime. Then they are rinsed, scraped and packed with spring water into sterilised jars. Processing snails is a specialised part of producing a top- quality fresh snail product. Cutting corners in this process will result in inferior snails. The finished product should look like the snails in the images shown here. 67
Food processing equipment For processing 80 dozen snails – a day’s work for one person ◘ Clean kitchen with smooth work benches ◘ Floors that can be effectively cleaned ◘ Processing area (kitchen) must be free of pests and vermin ◘ Stove ◘ Exhaust fan ◘ Stainless steel sink ◘ Separate sink nearby for hand washing ◘ Dishwasher ◘ Refrigerator ◘ Fire extinguisher ◘ Stainless steel saucepans ◘ Stainless steel or glass bowls ◘ Small-pronged fork for snail extraction ◘ Sieve for draining snails Refer to food handling practices according to Australian and ◘ Paring knife for slime extraction New Zealand Food Standards. ◘ Latex gloves used for food handling Standard 3.2.3 – Food Premises ◘ Glass jars for packing and Equipment (Australia only) 68
How to process snails ◘ Add 1/4 cup white vinegar and 2 ◘ Make slurry of half salt and half vinegar tablespoons salt to 4.5 litres of water in to cover the snails and soak for around a 5 litre saucepan. Boil. two hours. ◘ Then thoroughly rinse at least three times in ◘ Drop a bag of 50 snails into the rapidly cold water. boiling water. ◘ Carefully scrape off any remaining ◘ To cook the snails, boil rapidly for five slime around the lip of the snail with minutes, making sure the water does small paring knife. not go off the boil. ◘ Transfer snails to clean bowl with half The same water can be used for two or three water, half white wine and leave batches (depending on slime). Always have overnight in the refrigerator. (The wine another one or two saucepans ready for the helps to neutralise the salt). next batches. ◘ The following morning, rinse the snails ◘ Drain snails and place in a bowl of cold and pack into glass jars containing water. spring water. ◘ Use a small, two-pronged fork such as Snails that appear thin or flattened in the a cocktail or fondue fork for shelling the centre are inferior and should not be sold. snails. See images on next page. Trim only the snout if it has not retracted ◘ Insert the fork and twist and pull the after cooking. No other trimming is snail out of the shell in one movement. necessary. The whole snail is removed in one 69 piece — not stretched or broken.
Extracting the snail from the shell These directions are for a right-handed person. ◘ Hold the snail in your left hand (as shown here) and the fork in your right hand. ◘ Insert the fork in the retracted foot of the snail, twist fork carefully in an anti-clockwise direction while rotating your hand the opposite way, pulling the snail out of the shell in one movement. ◘ Don’t push the fork all the way through to the shell. ◘ The whole snail is removed in one piece — not stretched or broken. This takes practice - do dummy runs before tackling your snails for market. 70
Quality control ◘ Check processed snails for quality. They must be clean, plump and no sign of slime. Full body, plump, clean Wizened body, slime The snail on the left is seriously inferior and should never be sold. The other snail is a perfect example of a snails produced in free-range snail production. 71
The jobs in a free-range snail farm ◘ Preparing the soil ◘ Clearing out used fields ◘ Building the fences ◘ Transferring snails ◘ Planting crops ◘ Harvesting snails ◘ Selecting snails for reproduction ◘ Purging snails ◘ Maintenance of fields ◘ Processing snails ◘ Watering/weeding ◘ Packing and labelling ◘ Supplementary feeding ◘ Invoicing and accounting ◘ Maintenance of paths ◘ Marketing snails ◘ Trimming crops ◘ Packing and delivery of snails ◘ Rotating crops 72
Costs Figures estimated over two-year establishment period using new materials. Establishment costs can be reduced by utilising second-hand materials and using resources that may already be available. Production fields $17,974 (based on production 50,000 snails) Purging shed (and associated costs) $9,780. Snails are seasonal and there is no income for the first year while establishing the breeding program. Achievable return for establishment investment Sell 60 dozen snails a week at $12.50 per dozen for 20 weeks = $15,000 Sell 100 dozen snails a week at $12.50 per dozen for 20 weeks = $25,000 . Two years after initial establishment, overheads are minimal and you will have a good understanding of snail behaviour and production management. Snails and markets can be increased and profits are boosted. 73
Marketing snails Sonya Begg Orange NSW Australia March 2010 © This document outlines the importance of marketing and strategic planning to provide a focused approach for snail products and services to reach the appropriate target market. Complimentary download from website http://www.snailfarming.net 74
Regulations Development consent from your local Council may be necessary. Check with the Health and Building Department. Preparation of snails must be conducted under the regulatory system of the Food Standards Australia and New Zealand (FSANZ). Laws and rules relating to food processing differ in each local government council and from state to state so it’s necessary to check the FSANZ website for the most current information. A commercial business requires an Australian Business Number (ABN) and business name registered with the Department of Fair Trading. 75
Hints for saving money when setting up ◘ Construct the external fence first as it’s the most expensive component. Build the area as large as practicable for future expansion. ◘ Start with four internal fields. It doesn’t matter if the whole area is not under snails for the first couple of years. ◘ Before the snail season starts you need only to construct one reproduction field and three growing fields. ◘ Use second-hand materials to reduce set-up costs. 76
Health safety Advice is extended to people with a weakened immune system or who have a history of respiratory or lung disease who are considering working with a combination of soil and snails. The use of potting mix and organic soil has been associated with legionnaire’s disease, a respiratory infection which, in susceptible individuals such as the elderly and those with particular respiratory conditions, can prove dangerous to humans. Most infections are acquired by inhalation or from open wounds on the skin and people on chronic steroid therapy, those with cancer, organ or bone marrow transplants, or HIV/AIDS are at risk of contracting these infections. Refer to Department of Employment and Workplace Relations for information regarding Occupational Health and Safety in the workplace. Use mask and gloves when working in organic soil. 77
If you are serious about farming snails commercially in Australia, free-range or open pasture snail farming offers many benefits compared to intensive snail farming methods because it’s sustainable. After more than 26 years of research , development and practical snail farming using many different snail farming systems, I can without hesitation, recommend free-range snail farming as the most viable and moral method of snail production. Today, people care about how the snails they eat are raised, as much as how they taste. The best texture and flavour comes only from snails that have raised in open pastures of living vegetables and forage crops. Free-range snail farming is raising snails as nature intended ― and it’s sustainable and an accepted, agricultural farming Sonya Begg practice. Add some passion and you have a recipe for success. Orange NSW Australia Footnote: Sonya Begg passed away peacefully at Orange, NSW 31 May 2012. 78
References Snail Farming Information Service Code of Practice Marketing Strategies Free-range Snail Farming in Australia Food Standards Australia and New Zealand Good Bug Bed Supported by: 79
© All rights reserved. No part of this presentation may be reproduced or transmitted in any form ― electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, circulated or otherwise, without the prior written permission of the copyright owner. All intellectual property is owned by Sonya Begg, Orange NSW Australia. Modification or use of any of the content for any purpose is illegal. Requests to use photos, quotations or extracts from this presentation should be addressed to the author. The information contained in this document is based on knowledge and understanding at the time of writing. It does not warrant or assume any legal liability or responsibility for the accuracy, completeness, or usefulness of any information, apparatus, product, or process disclosed. 80
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