TOWARDS A MORE CONNECTED AND ENGAGED LUXURY

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TOWARDS A MORE CONNECTED AND ENGAGED LUXURY
TOWARDS A MORE
CONNECTED AND
ENGAGED LUXURY
The crisis is encouraging luxury companies to implement new
strategies that are more efficient, more resilient and more
customer-centric. But they cannot succeed in accelerating their
digital transformation without a perfect command of these
issues.
TOWARDS A MORE CONNECTED AND ENGAGED LUXURY
TOWARDS A MORE CONNECTED AND ENGAGED LUXURY                                                                                                                                          SALESFORCE, PUBLICIS LUXE & EPSILON

CONTENTS                                                                                                                                    FROM THE EDITOR
04       Chapter 1 • The luxury sector faced                            32       Chapter 3 • The fine challenges of
         with the health crisis                                                  luxury houses

06       Nicolas Zunz & Denis Terrien                                   34       Laure Debos
         “It has become impossible to separate                                   Customer-centric strategy: pitfalls to
         meaning and growth”                                                     avoid and quick wins to secure
                                                                                                                                             At the end of the first lockdown, 2020 seemed like a
11       Luca Solca                                                              Déborah Marino
                                                                                                                                             perilous year for luxury houses. Consumer confidence
                                                                        37
         “Luxury houses must streamline their                                    In China, the enchantment that money                        was low, stores were closing their doors, fashion weeks
         physical networks”                                                      can’t buy (anymore)                                         went digital by mandate, with no beautiful clothes in
                                                                                                                                             the front rows. Fortunately, the year ended with an
14       Chapter 2 • Reinventing the customer                           41       Generation Z, a taste for unadorned                         encouraging rebound, proving that the major luxury
         relationship                                                            luxury                                                      houses have more than one trick up their sleeve.

16       Nicolas André                                                  44       Values are no longer a luxury
                                                                                                                                             At Epsilon, Publicis Luxe and Salesforce, we believe
         Data for a new customer relationship
                                                                                                                                             that every crisis is an opportunity to learn and evolve
                                                                                                                                             towards new, more efficient and more resilient models.
18       The return of clienteling in luxury                                                    Salesforce, the global leader in             That’s why we turned to the experts to discover their
                                                                                                CRM, enables companies of all
                                                                                                sizes and in all industries to drive         analysis of the situation. For these experts, major
20       David Nijaki                                                                           their digital transformation and             luxury houses must step up their efforts to redesign
         Mercedes-Benz: “Unifying data is a                                                     gain a 360-degree view of their
         capital challenge”                                                                     customers.                                   the customer experience. Data will fuel customer
                                                                                                                                             relationships over the long term, applying all the charm
23       Breitling in the time of customer                                                      Publicis Luxe aims to work with              of customer care across every stage in the customer
                                                                                                luxury brands to create innovative
         advocacy                                                                               experiences that enrich products,
                                                                                                                                             experience. Brick-and-mortar storefronts and online
                                                                                                services and storytelling to create          shopping sites are converging through an omnichannel
                                                                                                a special emotion in every moment
25       Accor Luxe & Premium consolidate data                                                  and build unique relationships over
                                                                                                                                             logic.
         for the customer experience                                                            time.

                                                                                                                                             While the big luxury houses have already embraced
26       Arthur Barbey                                                                                                                       these new values, many challenges still remain: avoiding
                                                                                                Epsilon France is the Publicis
         Omnichannel: technology to kick-start                                                  Group’s data marketing entity                the pitfalls associated with omnichannel strategies,
         the customer relationship                                                              with 750 Adtech and Martech
                                                                                                employees. Its mission is to help            interacting authentically with the powerful Generation
                                                                                                brands sustain their growth by               Z, understanding the changing expectations of Chinese
30       Brunello Cucinelli, Delvaux, Hotel Group                                               leveraging their data assets and
         Omnichannel, a necessary luxury                                                        quality customer relationships               consumers, committing to environmental and social
                                                                                                within a world dominated by                  guarantees... Discover these trends now in the following
                                                                                                platforms.
                                                                                                                                             pages.

Photo credits: ©Ryoji Iwata on Unsplash, ©Joachim Lesne on Unsplash, ©Flaunter LI on Unsplash, ©Ke Atlas on Unsplash, ©Olive on Unsplash,
©Markus Spiske on Unsplash, ©Hunters Race on Unsplash                                                                                        Enjoy the read.

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TOWARDS A MORE CONNECTED AND ENGAGED LUXURY
TOWARDS A MORE CONNECTED AND ENGAGED LUXURY                                 SALESFORCE, PUBLICIS LUXE & EPSILON

                                              CHAPTER 1

                                              THE LUXURY
                                              SECTOR FACED
                                              WITH THE
                                              HEALTH CRISIS
                                                          ALTHOUGH THE LUXURY SECTOR ENJOYED A

                                                          CLEAR REBOUND IN THE FOURTH QUARTER OF

                                                          2020, THE HEALTH CRISIS HAS NONETHELESS

                                                          SHIFTED THE BALANCE , TURNING STRATEGIC

                                                          INTUITIONS INTO CERTAINTIES. FOR THE MAJOR

                                                          LUXURY HOUSES, IT HAS BECOME VITAL TO

                                                          FOCUS THEIR EFFORTS ON THE CUSTOMER

                                                          EXPERIENCE AND AN OMNICHANNEL APPROACH,

                                                          WHILE STREAMLINING THEIR STORE NETWORKS.

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TOWARDS A MORE CONNECTED AND ENGAGED LUXURY
TOWARDS A MORE CONNECTED AND ENGAGED LUXURY                                                                               SALESFORCE, PUBLICIS LUXE & EPSILON

“IT HAS BECOME                                                           Beyond its severe financial
                                                                         consequences, is the Covid-19
                                                                                                                On the business side, the drop in
                                                                                                                tourism (especially from China)

IMPOSSIBLE TO SEPARATE                                                   crisis also calling into question
                                                                         the standard business model at
                                                                                                                has a direct impact on store
                                                                                                                networks. How does this change

MEANING AND GROWTH”                                                      luxury houses?                         the strategies of luxury houses?

                                                                         Nicolas Zunz: This is one of the       D. T.: The current crisis has
                                                                         key lessons from the current           revealed the value of having
                                                                         crisis: customers are increasingly     a centralized IT and global
                                                                         looking for meaning in all their       marketing organization. Some
                                                                         purchases. Though it applies           houses were better equipped
                                                                         across every sector, this trend        than others to absorb the shock
                                                                         is even more pronounced in the         of this crisis. They were able to
                                                                         luxury sector, which is expected       bounce back quickly and focus
                                                                         to be exemplary. This is even          their marketing communications
                                                                         more true for Generation Z, which      efforts on regions that were less
                                                                         will account for at least half of      affected by the health crisis. We
                                                                         luxury purchases in 20 years.          should remember that the luxury
                                                                         For this generation, a brand’s lack    industry, especially hospitality,
              Nicolas Zunz                    Denis Terrien              of ethics or commitments may           is used to geopolitical crises
              Vice President of Publicis      Executive Vice President   represent a true casus belli.          leading to lockdowns across
              Groupe in France and            Southern Europe at                                                entire regions. When tourists no
              President of Epsilon France     Salesforce                                                        longer travel, we have to know
                                                                         Denis Terrien: Faced with rising
                                                                         social inequality around the world,    how to reach them in their home
                                                                         luxury brands, perceived as being      countries!
                                                                         privileged services, must show
              As e-commerce emerges as an essential growth
                                                                         vigilance and amplify their efforts.
              driver during the crisis impacting the luxury sector,
                                                                         Covid-19 has urged the luxury
              luxury houses must focus their efforts on the
                                                                         sector to redefine itself. More than
              customer experience and omnichannel approach,
                                                                         ever, it must find ways to present
              without compromising their values. We hear from
                                                                         itself clearly in order to generate
              Nicolas Zunz, Vice President of Publicis Groupe in
                                                                         interest rather than distrust.
              France and President of Epsilon France, and Denis
                                                                         Today, it has become impossible
              Terrien, Executive Vice President Southern Europe at
                                                                         to separate meaning and growth.
              Salesforce.

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TOWARDS A MORE CONNECTED AND ENGAGED LUXURY
TOWARDS A MORE CONNECTED AND ENGAGED LUXURY                                                                                        SALESFORCE, PUBLICIS LUXE & EPSILON

              What growth drivers should be           experience online as in-store,        Are you optimistic about the
              preferred?                              meaning an ultra-personalized         luxury sector’s ability to succeed
                                                      experience. In many cases,            in its digital transformation?
              N.Z.: E-commerce is the preferred       brands have yet to offer even a
              growth driver. Today, it represents     personalized homepage for their       N.Z.: I’m fairly optimistic because
              more than 10% of revenue at             regular customers.                    consumers are much less hesitant
              luxury houses*, although it was                                               to use digital than before, even for
              non-existent 15 years ago. It is a      D. T.: We are seeing that luxury      big purchases. Ten years ago, no
              completely exponential market.          is no longer an exception to the      one would have bet that $1,000
              However, I don’t believe that           notion that service is just as        dresses could be sold online
              luxury is behind in this area. Recall   important as the product. Product     without a fitting. Today, live sales
              the creation of Net-a-porter in the     quality must be combined with         for luxury goods are booming
              2000s, the first Hermès website         the best possible customer            in China. Moreover, luxury
              in 2001, Farfetch in 2007, Vestiaire    experience, both during and           customers are more than willing
              Collective in 2009... Very few          after the sale. It’s not just about   to share their data. Studies show
              sectors have such an e-commerce         sales, but also the customer          that 45%* feel that using their
              ecosystem with direct-to-               journey: the customer journey is      personal information is crucial for
              consumer, wholesale, rental and         an omnichannel adventure, both        enhancing their brand experience.
              now even resale platforms. It was       virtual and physical. We have to
              consumers who were not ready            develop a 360-degree view of          To keep up with the desires of
              to shop online for products as          a customer’s entire life with a       a mobile and evolving clientele
              complex as luxury goods. This           company. It’s truly exciting.         and evolving customer base,
              resistance to e-commerce is                                                   it’s essential to own and master
              disappearing.                                                                 certain technologies. That’s where
                                                                                            Salesforce’s tools and support can
              In my view, if there is any delay, it                                         make a big difference.
              would be in the digital customer
              experience. Luxury houses must
              find a way to offer the same

                                                                                            *Source: BCG x Tencent Digital
                                                                                            Luxury Report

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TOWARDS A MORE CONNECTED AND ENGAGED LUXURY
TOWARDS A MORE CONNECTED AND ENGAGED LUXURY                                                                                                SALESFORCE, PUBLICIS LUXE & EPSILON

                                                                                             “LUXURY HOUSES MUST
              What advice do you have for
              brands trying to engage their
              customers?
                                                      The current
              D. T.: The burning question of
                                                      challenge for luxury                   STREAMLINE THEIR
              the moment is how to better
              connect with customers in a
                                                      brands is to match
                                                      the experience and                     PHYSICAL NETWORKS”
              luxury sector where the balance         personalization
              between physical and virtual sales
              is shifting. At Salesforce, we are
                                                      of pure players
              fully capable of helping luxury         and digital native                                                         Luca Solca, Managing Director Luxury
              houses combine the two, within a        vertical brands.                                                           Goods at Bernstein, analyzes the
              single system. That’s our business:                                                                                impact of the Covid-19 crisis on physical
              enabling companies to better                                                                                       store networks operated by luxury
              connect with their employees and        Nicolas Zunz                                                               houses. He also outlines the potential
              customers. This connection has                                                                                     opportunities and risks of shifting to
                                                      N.Z.: The current challenge for
              become more crucial than ever                                                                                      digital.
                                                      luxury brands is to match the
              since the start of the health crisis.
                                                      experience and personalization of
                                                      pure players and DNVBs (digital
              Products will no longer sell            native vertical brands). These new
              themselves. Without taking              experiences have become the
              anything away from their intrinsic      standard and norm for Millennials                                          With the crisis, the future of luxury is
              quality, they must be paired            who are demanding the same                                                 certainly digital, but will the future of
              with a strong and engaging              experience in the luxury sector.                                           luxury houses remain physical?
              multi-channel experience for            This is a huge challenge for luxury
              the customer. When a customer           houses, which have traditionally                                           Luca Solca: Yes. Consumer purchases
              walks through the doors of a            relied on customers coming to                                              have massively shifted online due to
              store, the salesperson who greets       them. Now it’s their turn. This is a                                       the crisis and luxury houses must now
              them must be able to retrace            cultural revolution that has only                                          streamline their physical networks at a
              their entire relationship with          just begun.                                                                much faster pace than expected. How?
              the brand over the past several
                                                                                                                                 By focusing on a leaner network that
              years, whether physical or virtual,
                                                                                                                                 is more impactful and more deeply
              anywhere in the world.
                                                                                                                                 rooted in their DNA – like Apple, whose
                                                                                             Luca Solca                          products and points of sale all speak
                                                                                             Managing Director Luxury Goods at   with one voice.
                                                                                             Bernstein

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TOWARDS A MORE CONNECTED AND ENGAGED LUXURY                                                                                                     SALESFORCE, PUBLICIS LUXE & EPSILON

              Luxury houses have long favored        What are the opportunities and       Lastly, by accelerating digital       We are witnessing an extremely
              vast flagship stores. In my            risks involved when brands shift     distribution, the Covid-19 crisis     rapid evolution. The crisis and
              opinion, we need to question           to digital?                          has raised a major issue: price       scarcity of Chinese consumers
              that model. We should not                                                   discipline. Pricing should be         have only accelerated these
              be asking ourselves if a store         L.S.: Customers have simple          identical both in stores and          trends. It’s like we just
              looks luxurious enough, but if         expectations. They want to           online, including on multi-brand      experienced five years of
              it conveys the right values. For       have the same experience both        platforms like Farfetch.              evolution in only six months.
              example, Fendi recently opened         online and offline. For brands,
              a full studio inside its Rome store.   this means accelerating their        Regarding the rise of digital,
              It’s a brilliant idea in terms of      omnichannel approach in order        are we seeing different
              customer experience.                   to recognize the customer at         strategies emerge in different
                                                     each stage of their journey. In      geographical regions?
              What has changed is that it is         terms of logistics, however, the
              no longer possible to do the           sector should not try to reinvent    L.S.: Until now, China has enjoyed
              same thing as 15 years ago,            what others are already doing        a huge lead, as exemplified by
              when luxury houses built their         very well (such as Amazon or         the Luxury Pavilion launched
              networks with identical stores         Alibaba, which provide same-day      in 2017 by Tmall, the Alibaba
              from one capital to the next.          or next-day delivery). For reasons   Group’s marketplace. This
              For customers, a standardized          of scale, these operational          upscale site offers a selection
              store almost always means a            aspects are not within the reach     of exceptional brands. It’s a
              bad experience. We need to give        of luxury houses. The same goes      concept that has proven itself
              them good reasons to visit stores      for payment, where WeChat            and is now inspiring several
              when they travel. This is precisely    Pay and AliPay offer integrated      American giants. Amazon,
              what Dior is trying to do by           and immediate experiences            Facebook and Instagram are
              reopening its historic address on      that have set the model. Luxury      following the example of Tencent
              Avenue Montaigne in 2021, with         houses should rely on the major      and Alibaba by stepping into
              spaces dedicated to ready-to-          operators and focus on what          multi-brand digital luxury
              wear, lounges for haute couture        they do best: experience and         distribution. In a way, everyone is
              and a restaurant that opens onto       packaging.                           aligning themselves with Chinese
              a garden.                                                                   standards.

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TOWARDS A MORE CONNECTED AND ENGAGED LUXURY                             SALESFORCE, PUBLICIS LUXE & EPSILON

                                              CHAPTER 2

                                              REINVENTING
                                              CUSTOMER
                                              RELATIONS
                                                      WHAT IF LOYALTY IS A GROWING VALUE? THE

                                                      DAYS OF ONE-TIME RELATIONSHIPS BETWEEN

                                                      LUXURY BRANDS ARE OVER. ON DIGITAL

                                                      CHANNELS AS WELL AS IN STORES, DATA IS

                                                      FUELING CUSTOMER RELATIONSHIPS OVER

                                                      THE LONG TERM AND AT EVERY STEP OF THE

                                                      JOURNEY. DID YOU SAY OMNICHANNEL?

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TOWARDS A MORE CONNECTED AND ENGAGED LUXURY                                                                                           SALESFORCE, PUBLICIS LUXE & EPSILON

                                                                              Given this, where can they start
DATA FOR A                                                                    collecting this precious data?
                                                                              Luxury houses, especially in the
                                                                                                                    Technology and data are not
NEW CUSTOMER                                                                  jewelry and watchmaking sectors,
                                                                              do not always have physical           enough. It’s above all a race
RELATIONSHIP                                                                  points of contact with their
                                                                              customers. And when they do,
                                                                                                                    for insight, for understanding
                                                                                                                    customer expectations and
                                                                              they are not always designed to
                                                                              encourage customers to return or
                                                                                                                    demands.
“A glaring lack of customer data.” For Nicolas André, Director
of Strategic Planning at Epsilon France, the situation is clear. As           to collect their data.
luxury brands set out to conquer online customers, it is imperative
that they fill their tanks with data, the true fuel of a personalized         “However, luxury houses no
                                                                                                                    This is good news for luxury
customer relationship.                                                        longer have a choice: they must
                                                                                                                    houses in their battle against
                                                                              become data champions,” says
                                                                                                                    digital giants. “Amazon, which has
                                                                              André. This is a major challenge
                             A customer database is an asset as                                                     its sights set on the luxury sector,
                                                                              for a sector that is traditionally
                             essential as it is difficult to build. In this                                         does not generate any emotion
                                                                              not very tech-savvy and is
                             area, luxury houses are often starting                                                 and is ranked by Generation
                                                                              unfamiliar with data marketing,
                             from scratch. They need to move on                                                     Z as one of the most boring
                                                                              where many players, despite their
                             from the one-shot aspect of one-time                                                   companies. Luxury, with its DNA
                                                                              financial power, are starting from
                             relationships they have long had with                                                  woven with passion and values,
                                                                              scratch.
                             tourist clientele, particularly from China,                                            has a bright future ahead.”
                             who often walk out the door with a
                                                                              MORE THAN A RACE FOR
                             beautiful piece, never to come back.
                                                                              TECHNOLOGY, A RACE FOR
                                                                              INSIGHT
Nicolas André                With the onset of Covid-19, luxury houses
Director of Strategic        soon found themselves cut off from this
                                                                              More than just a shift to
Planning at Epsilon France   foreign clientele, which accounted for
                                                                              e-commerce, the priority is
                             up to 70% of their sales. “The European
                                                                              to move from an ephemeral
                             luxury houses must today capitalize
                                                                              customer relationship to one
                             on their domestic markets by turning
                                                                              that is deep and lasting. “To
                             towards a local clientele,” explains
                                                                              do this, technology and data
                             Nicolas André, “thereby reducing their
                                                                              are not enough,” says André.
                             dependence on foreign buyers.”
                                                                              “It’s above all a race for insight,
                                                                              for understanding customer
                                                                              expectations and demands.”

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TOWARDS A MORE CONNECTED AND ENGAGED LUXURY                                                                                                    SALESFORCE, PUBLICIS LUXE & EPSILON

                                                                                       Clienteling in the data age is first
                                                                                       and foremost a tool allowing
                                                                                       companies to connect with
                                                                                       customers with perfectly updated
                                                                                                                              Classic phone calls had fallen
                                                                                                                              out of fashion in favor of
THE RETURN OF                                                                          files, in order to address them in
                                                                                       a personalized way, in all stores,     hip events and engagement
CLIENTELING IN                                                                         even if their dedicated consultant
                                                                                       is absent. At the point of sale,
                                                                                                                              strategies. It is now valued as
                                                                                                                              the preferred vehicle for one-
LUXURY                                                                                 this involves sharing customer
                                                                                       data, with their consent, in           on-one contact, especially
                                                                                       order to feed the CRM with total       for VIP customers in the
                                                                                       confidence. To make future visits      luxury world.
What’s better than knowing a customer?           At a time when customer               even more personalized, it is also
Recognizing a customer. As the industry goes     relations need a total overhaul,      possible to also add wish lists,
through its digital transformation, luxury       clienteling is experiencing a         measurements, etc.
houses are revisiting the recipe that has long   resurgence of interest among                                                 Emanuela Prandelli
underpinned their success: the fine art of       luxury brands. Clienteling is the     Using a fully detailed database, it    Associate Professor at SDA Bocconi School of
clienteling.                                     fine art of long-term customer        becomes possible to orchestrate        Management, quoted by Fashion Network
                                                 relationships, nurtured by a          marketing campaigns that
                                                 detailed knowledge of their           proactively address the 20%
                                                 preferences and purchasing            of customers with the highest
                                                 behavior. This is a relationship of   spending power by offering
                                                 trust and reciprocity, in which the   new services. For example, a
                                                 consumer and the brand know           custom shoe designer can ensure
                                                 and recognize each other. In          customer satisfaction by sending
                                                 short, luxury brands must be able     a personalized email a few weeks
                                                 to offer the customer a friendly,     after the purchase. Even by email,
                                                 intimate relationship. In short,      the designer can provide valuable
                                                 a hyper-premium relationship.         maintenance tips, or even suggest
                                                 Mass-market brands have already       a new appointment in store for a
                                                 understood that this is the best      personalized polish or repair, all
                                                 way to respond to Millennials         thanks to Salesforce Marketing
                                                 desire for personalization. This      Cloud.
                                                 means luxury brands must raise
                                                 the bar even higher.

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TOWARDS A MORE CONNECTED AND ENGAGED LUXURY                                                                                              SALESFORCE, PUBLICIS LUXE & EPSILON

                                                                                                                               For non-financed customers,
MERCEDES-BENZ:
                                                                                         What paths do your customers
                                                                                         take when purchasing a new            data is crucial for analyzing
                                                                                                                               purchasing paths. It allows us
“UNIFYING DATA IS A
                                                                                         vehicle?
                                                                                                                               to detect purchase intentions
                                                                                                                               and encourage renewals, thanks
CAPITAL CHALLENGE”
                                                                                         Ninety percent of them start their
                                                                                         journey on the digital platform       to a history of interactions with
                                                                                         before visiting a dealership.         the brand and analysis of online
                                                                                         Accelerated by the health             behavior. We use this data to
                                                                                         crisis, digitization has become       increase the intensity of our
                                                                                         an essential complement to a          communications to relevant
                                                                                         physical network, which remains       customers.
                                                                                         of vital importance. Moreover,
                                                                                         manufacturers with online             For these reasons, we invest in
                                                                                         sales tools have weathered the        digital and CRM in order to send
                                                                                         crisis much better. Nowadays,         each customer personalized
                                                                                         customers get information online,     commercial offers, test drive
                                                                                         make a short list of two or three     suggestions and more. Once
                                                                                         brands, only to visit one or two in   identified, leads are shared with
                                                                                         the end. Across all manufacturers,    our network of dealers, who are
                                                                                         60% of customers make up              responsible for conversion.
                                              It’s a genuine race against the clock.     their minds within a month. The
                                              To convince their customers to remain      challenge for Mercedes-Benz is        How do your prospects begin
                                              loyal, premium car manufacturers           to make it onto this list in a very   their purchasing journey?
                                              have an extremely short window of          short timeframe.
                                              opportunity when customers are
                                                                                                                               The main channel our prospects
                                              changing vehicles: a few weeks at most.    How do you use data to detect         use is our official website,
                                              But thanks to data, they can make          purchase intentions and interact      www.mercedes-benz.fr. This is
                                              sure they have the best position at the    with your targets?                    where they can find complete
                                              starting line. This is a key issue, even
                                                                                                                               information about our line. Social
                                              as loyalty rates vary between 50% and
                                                                                         At Mercedes-Benz, a large share       media also has an influence,
                                              65% according to studies. David Nijaki,
                                                                                         of our customers have signed          although it is only perceived as a
                                              Marketing and Communication Manager
                                                                                         a financing contract, so we           priority source of information by
                                              at Mercedes-Benz, explains.
                                                                                         can anticipate this window of         20% of our customers. However,
David Nijaki                                                                             opportunity. We know when we          Facebook users have become
Marketing and Communication Manager at                                                   need to act to convince them to       older and its audience is more
Mercedes-Benz France                                                                     buy with us again.                    in line with our targets. This
                                                                                                                               platform has therefore become

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TOWARDS A MORE CONNECTED AND ENGAGED LUXURY                                                                                                        SALESFORCE, PUBLICIS LUXE & EPSILON

              a source of traffic in its own right   This real-time analysis is also
              with interesting conversion rates.
              On Instagram, our communication
                                                     important for orchestrating
                                                     communication actions between
                                                                                            BREITLING IN THE TIME OF
              goals have more to do with brand
              presence and engagement than
                                                     the various sales and after-sales
                                                     activities and our network. Let’s
                                                                                            CUSTOMER ADVOCACY
              the bottom of the funnel.              take the example of a customer
                                                     who may wish to receive offers
              Do you feel that the issue today       for the maintenance of their
                                                                                            In the luxury sector, where word of          In a scientific way, Breitling’s marketing
              is no longer data collection, but      vehicle while negotiating with a
                                                                                            mouth plays a decisive role, the famous      and data teams have analyzed the
              real-time data analysis?               distributor for a renewal... This is
                                                                                            Swiss watchmaker is shaking up its           customer data collected in the boutique
                                                     a faux pas to avoid, especially in a
                                                                                            customer advocacy strategy. Here are         network over the past 10 years, as well
                                                     pivotal moment.
              We focus a lot on analysis, but                                               some very conclusive first results on its    as the data generated by its internet
              data collection remains important.                                            e-commerce sales.                            marketing campaigns. On this basis,
              The GDPR law has shaken up our         This unification of data
                                                                                                                                         Breitling is able to personalize its
              practices, particularly in terms       throughout the customer journey
                                                                                            In a recent interview, Breitling CEO         communications and analyze weak
              of how long data is retained. A        is highly complex, but essential. A
                                                                                            Georges Kern pointed out that 70% of         signals that predict purchase intentions
              customer updates their vehicle         key challenge.
                                                                                            purchases are influenced by information      based on customer history. The result?
              every three-to-six years. To retain                                                                                        Increased efficiency of marketing efforts
                                                                                            circulating on the web. To reach its
              their data, we need to continue                                                                                            aimed at improving up-sell and cross-sell.
                                                                                            targets, the watchmaker has chosen to

                                                     90                   %
              to interact with them. The legal
                                                                                            rely on the ability of its customers to
              environment, especially regarding
                                                                                            become ambassadors, in other words           Since implementing this strategy in 2017,
              cookies, may also penalize us for
                                                                                            customer advocates, a trend that is          Breitling has recorded a sharp rise in
              collecting and analyzing data to
                                                                                            becoming increasingly important in the       e-commerce sales, which represent 15%
              reach the right people at the right
                                                                                            strategies of luxury houses. For these       of its total sales (by adding those of its
              time.
                                                                                            houses, it has become an invaluable          e-commerce site and those of it of its
                                                     OF CUSTOMERS START
                                                                                            central asset, together with brand           resellers). And it’s only just begun: “We
                                                     THEIR BUYING PATH ON                                                                now intend to triple our online sales,”
                                                                                            prestige and the notoriety of its creative
                                                     DIGITAL                                director.                                    says Antonio Carriero, Chief Digital &
                                                                                                                                         Technology Officer at Breitling.

22                                                                                                                                                                                  23
SALESFORCE, PUBLICIS LUXE & EPSILON
A FLAWLESS CUSTOMER JOURNEY

                                                                                                ACCOR LUXE & PREMIUM
                                                                                                CONSOLIDATE DATA
 01                                              07
                                                                                                FOR THE CUSTOMER
Infatuation. The customer discovers the
brand via a social network and makes a first
                                                Assessment. The customer is active on
                                                social media and mentions the brand, their      EXPERIENCE
purchase.                                       feedback is identified and enriches their
                                                profile.

              02                                                                                Within the Accor galaxy, the Luxury &       “Time spent updating and delivering
                                                                                                Premium brands represent a portfolio        reports went from 10 days to just two
             Invitation. The brand                                                              of nine world-class brands and over         hours,” notes Nicolas Leseurre, Director
             personally invites the customer                                                    600 hotels. To leverage its data- and       of Planning and Analytics. “We also used
             to a fashion show. A personal       06
                                                                                                offer-optimized experiences, the            Tableau Bridge (which connects Tableau
             shopper makes sure the
                                                                                                upscale hotel giant has chosen to           Online to firewall-protected data sources)
             customer attends.                  Regular updates from order to delivery.
                                                                                                deploy Tableau.                             to create a single reporting process for
                                                The customer is regularly updated at each
                                                stage in product delivery. Each update                                                      all hotels, further amplifying its impact
                                                includes personalized content (new looks,       “For our Luxury & Premium brands,           across the company.”
                                                an inside look at the brand’s studios).
                                                                                                we had already succeeded in unifying
                                                                                                data as diverse as finance, quality,        Accor Luxury & Premium end users now
                                                                                                distribution and social media with          have quick and easy access to a wide
                                                                                                Tableau Online,” recalls Geoffray           range of diversified key performance
 03                                                                                             Maugin, SVP Global Guest Experience         indicators in Tableau Online, giving them
                                                                 05
                                                                                                & Business Performance. “Soon, we will      a 360 degree vision of every aspect in a
                                                                                                add data sources from other business        single space, as opposed to using several
Personalized support. A digital platform
                                                                An immersive experience.
allows the customer to attend the fashion                                                       areas such as sustainability, loyalty or    platforms like before.
                                                                The customer meets their
show with their personal shopper, who                                                           food and beverage sourcing. These
                                                                personal shopper in the
provides advice and prepares a shopping list.                                                   consolidated insights on the country,
                                                                brand’s private showroom.                                                   “We’ve also used Tableau Online’s
                                                                Using augmented reality,        regional and global levels will help us     extensive functionality to reorganize the
                                                                the customer can visualize      drive better performance at all levels,     way we build and present our reports.
                                                                products that are still being
                   04                                                                           which is significant.” Centralizing data    With this visualization, we can count on
                                                                made.
                                                                                                through Tableau Online has quickly led to   tables that will speak to everyone.”
                Order confirmed! The customer can find their                                    spectacular improvements.
                selection on the brand’s application. They
                can choose which pieces they like, indicate a
                delivery address and confirm their order.

                                                                                                                                                                                       25
TOWARDS A MORE CONNECTED AND ENGAGED LUXURY                                                                                           SALESFORCE, PUBLICIS LUXE & EPSILON

              TECHNOLOGY
                                                                                      As market trends and consumer habits
              TO KICKSTART                                                            show, the ultra-personalized experience
              THE CUSTOMER                                                            across all channels is a priority for houses.

              RELATIONSHIP

                                              Throughout their buying journey,                                              At the point of sale, a digital
                                              consumers have become                                                         clienteling application is
                                              accustomed to switching from one        Impeccable, fast, pertinent and       a practical way to build
                                              channel to another, depending on        efficient customer service has        a personalized customer
                                              what they find most convenient.         become much more than a mere          relationship with immediate
                                              Adding to this is an aspect that        advantage for companies. It has       access to customer files and
                                              is specific to luxury customers:        become a requirement and a            inventory. As a result, sales
                                              their ability to jet from one capital   criterion of choice for consumers,    staff can get answers to all
                                              to another (when world health           in the same way as product or         their questions and collect new
                                              allows it). This leaves only one        service quality.                      information that can be used
              Arthur Barbey                   answer: commit to an omnichannel                                              for future visits as well as for
              Distinguished Solution          strategy.                                                                     customer service. Sales staff
                                                                                      DATA, THE FUEL OF A
              Engineer Salesforce                                                                                           can even use this tool to keep in
                                                                                      PERSONALIZED RELATIONSHIP
                                              It is widely known that luxury                                                touch by sending emails or texts
                                              customers demand highly                                                       to customers, according to their
                                                                                      To meet this challenge, companies
                                              personalized service, immediate                                               preferences. And in the event
                                                                                      collect a lot of information about
                                              attention to their requests and an                                            of turnover or absence within
                                                                                      their customers throughout
                                              equally fast response. What was                                               the teams, there is no risk that
                                                                                      their interactions, thanks to their
                                              already true in stores is now true                                            a customer will be left on their
                                                                                      personal shoppers working in
                                              online. And this expanded scope of                                            own, since all their information is
                                                                                      store and remotely. Customer
                                              action makes the task at hand for                                             centralized in the CRM and easily
                                                                                      activity on social media and
                                              luxury houses considerably more                                               accessible to everyone.
                                                                                      e-commerce sites also provide
                                              difficult. Their customers will not
                                                                                      valuable indicators for gauging
                                              wait, they do not expect to speak                                             All this data also plays a decisive
                                                                                      their tastes, expectations and
                                              to several representatives, and they                                          role in customer acquisition
                                                                                      satisfaction.
                                              certainly don’t want to repeat their                                          and activation, as well as
                                              requests at each step.                                                        personalized customer journeys

26                                                                                                                                                                     27
TOWARDS A MORE CONNECTED AND ENGAGED LUXURY                                                                                              SALESFORCE, PUBLICIS LUXE & EPSILON

              and retargeting strategies. On the      from the nearest store, to reduce      campaign or in during customer
              digital side, artificial intelligence
              can also support teams.
                                                      wait times and shipping costs.
                                                      In this way, thanks to the OMS,
                                                                                             service, the experience must be
                                                                                             the same for the consumer.
                                                                                                                                  + 11
              By offering style
                                                      the company can respond to the
                                                      most frequent requests of its          Using a digital platform like
                                                                                                                                  POINTS
              recommendations adapted to              customers: to pick up an item in       Salesforce makes it possible to
              the customer profile, marketing         the nearest store, to know if an       tailor marketing campaigns to a      The share of online luxury
                                                      item is available in a certain color
              campaigns, purchase journey and                                                customer’s profile and journey.      goods purchases increased
              intentions, AI can increase the         and size, and if it is possible to     Customer service can converse        from 12% in 2019 to 23% in
              customer’s shopping cart through        have it delivered within a day.        directly with the consumer on
                                                                                                                                  2020, reaching 49 billion
              cross-selling logic.                                                           messaging channels such as
                                                      A SEAMLESS OMNICHANNEL                 Messenger or WhatsApp. It also
                                                                                                                                  euros (Bain & Company,
              UNIFIED INVENTORY, SATISFIED            EXPERIENCE                             contributes to drive-to-store        Luxury Study 2020).
              CUSTOMERS                                                                      advertising, thus facilitating the
                                                                                             selling ceremony. It can also

                                                                                                                                  2025
                                                      As market trends and consumer
                                                      habits show, this ultra-               function as a source of profit
              By using an order management
                                                      personalized experience across         by taking the order directly
              system (OMS), companies can
                                                      every channel is a priority for        on the same channel through
              easily handle exceptionally
                                                      luxury houses, whether it is           native integration of Salesforce     By this date, online sales
              complex processes in a way
              that speeds up purchasing. It           on digital channels like the           e-commerce, customer service         will have become the main
              provides a quick and easy way to        e-commerce site, in store with         and OMS systems with the             purchasing channel for
                                                      sales staff, following a marketing     payment ecosystem.                   luxury products, according
              answer all the questions on their
              customers’ lips: “Is the product I                                                                                  to Bain & Company.
              want in stock?”; “Is the product I
              want available for pickup in store
              today?”; “How can I benefit from
              concierge service?”                     As market trends
                                                      and consumer
              A crucial link in any omnichannel       habits show, the
              approach, the OMS system
              organizes distribution so that the
                                                      ultra-personalized
              product reaches the customer as         experience across all
              quickly as possible. It streamlines     channels is a priority
              shipments by analyzing store and        for houses.
              warehouse inventories. In this
              way, the OMS system facilitates
              ship-from-store processes to
              deliver to customers directly

28                                                                                                                                                                       29
TOWARDS A MORE CONNECTED AND ENGAGED LUXURY                                                                                                            SALESFORCE, PUBLICIS LUXE & EPSILON

                                                                                               To achieve its digital ambitions,             “Our ambition is to have a comprehensive
OMNICHANNEL,                                                                                   Delvaux has deployed Sales Cloud
                                                                                               and Marketing Cloud, as well as an
                                                                                                                                             view of our customers and all their
                                                                                                                                             interactions with the Chinachem
A NECESSARY LUXURY                                                                             integrated personalized application,
                                                                                               Diamond, dedicated to its store staff.
                                                                                                                                             group, whether they stay in a hotel,
                                                                                                                                             visit a shopping mall or support a
                                                                                               Like many companies, the Covid-19             charity organization,” explains Sylvia
                                                                                               pandemic accelerated Delvaux’s move           Chung, Deputy CEO of the Hotel
                                                                                               to digital, and the data centralized in       Group. “Salesforce helps us gain new
Whether they operate in the leather,            It’s not easy to roll out the authenticity
                                                                                               Salesforce provided it with real-time         insights from this data to improve the
fashion or hotel sectors, the leading           of a company that is closely tied to its
                                                                                               information to help adapt its strategy. As    effectiveness of our campaigns and
players in luxury goods are investing           home territory, Umbria, on a global scale.
                                                                                               a result, despite closing its stores during   enhance the customer experience.”
in omnichannel strategies to offer the          With Salesforce, Brunello Cucinelli has
                                                                                               lockdown, staff were able to continue
online experience their customers               achieved this feat with a digital storefront
                                                                                               maintaining customer relationships and        Service Cloud provides a comprehensive
demand. Here are some inspiring                 available in 50 countries. Thanks to
                                                                                               sell remotely through the Diamond app.        view of each customer. Hotel Group can
examples.                                       Marketing Cloud, every communication
                                                                                                                                             use this information to design, develop,
                                                has a personal dimension, and recipients
                                                                                               Digital marketing is an important part of     personalize and measure all future
Brunello Cucinelli • Digital with more          often respond to e-mails by addressing
                                                                                               Delvaux’s strategy.                           marketing campaigns through Marketing
soul                                            Brunello directly. The result: since
                                                                                               “With richer information, we can bring        Cloud. “In the past, we would send very
                                                migrating the company’s e-commerce to
                                                                                               more value-added content to our               standard emails to promote rooms
                                                Commerce Cloud in 2016, the company
“If you don’t accept the changes of your                                                       customers, for example by sending them        and rates. Now, the marketing is much
                                                has quadrupled its online revenue.
time, you will probably miss out on most                                                       details on products that match their past     more personalized and dynamic, while
of them.”                                                                                      purchases or browsing history,” says Paul     saving our teams a lot of time,” says Jack
                                                Delvaux • An online experience as
                                                                                               Flacassier, Head of CRM.                      Tam, Director of Innovation and Digital
                                                perfect as in-store
For the Italian stylist and entrepreneur                                                                                                     Transformation at Hotel Group.
Brunello Cucinelli, new technologies must                                                      Hotel Group • Dynamic and
be used but “in a graceful way, without         Founded in Belgium in 1829, Delvaux is
                                                                                               personalized marketing
stealing our souls”. With Salesforce, the       the oldest luxury leather goods company
iconic Italian luxury company has found a       in the world and now has 42 stores in
                                                                                               Hotel Group consists of seven hotel
way to marry craftsmanship and service          Europe, Asia and the United States.
                                                                                               properties and serviced apartments
with technology that helps employees            Upon taking the helm of the company in
                                                                                               in Hong Kong – or more than 2,800
elevate the luxury experience.                  2019, CEO Marco Probst implemented a
                                                                                               rooms. To provide a truly personalized
                                                strategy to digitize the company in order
                                                                                               experience, the subsidiary of the
                                                to meet customers’ growing expectations
“Digital is by nature a little cold, a little                                                  Chinachem real estate group needed a
                                                for omnichannel engagement. “We
impersonal,” says Francesca Picchiò,                                                           solution to centralize its data.
                                                wanted to gain complete visibility into
Digital & CRM Program Manager. “Thanks
                                                the customer journey and recreate our
to Salesforce, we’ve been able to build
                                                unique and refined boutique experience
customer journeys that are as close as
                                                across all digital channels,” says Nelson
possible to our customers’ expectations
                                                Bastos, Delvaux’s CIO.
and desires.”

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TOWARDS A MORE CONNECTED AND ENGAGED LUXURY                              SALESFORCE, PUBLICIS LUXE & EPSILON

                                              CHAPTER 3

                                              THE FINE
                                              CHALLENGES
                                              OF LUXURY
                                              HOUSES
                                                      THE ROAD IS STRAIGHT BUT THE INCLINE IS

                                                      STEEP. EMBARKING ON AN OMNICHANNEL

                                                      STRATEGY, TACTFULLY ADDRESSING THE

                                                      POWERFUL GENERATION Z, UNDERSTANDING

                                                      THE CHANGING EXPECTATIONS OF CHINESE

                                                      CONSUMERS, PLEDGING A COMMITMENT TO THE

                                                      ENVIRONMENT AND SOCIETY... LUXURY BRANDS

                                                      FACE MANY DIFFERENT CHALLENGES.

32                                                                                                       33
TOWARDS A MORE CONNECTED AND ENGAGED LUXURY                                                                                                  SALESFORCE, PUBLICIS LUXE & EPSILON

       CUSTOMER-CENTRIC
       STRATEGY: PITFALLS TO
       AVOID AND QUICK WINS                                                                moment they connect online. This

       TO SECURE                                                                           means having information on their
                                                                                           measurements, favorite cuts and         The houses that are
                                                                                           colors, latest purchases, products      doing well are the ones
                                                                                           they’ve liked on Instagram and          that have invested in
                                                                                           others that leave them cold, all at
                                                                                                                                   their CRM
                                                                                           their fingertips.

                                                                                           “Luxury house customers are, by         There are many pitfalls to avoid
                                              With the Covid-19 crisis and the rise        nature, hyper demanding, hyper          when starting from scratch.
                                              of Generation Z, luxury brands are no        mobile, highly informed and multi-      Setting up a CRM impacts the
                                              longer just an object of desire. They        channel. We need to document all        fundamental organization of
                                              now have to take the perilous step of        their interactions and purchases        the company, notably mixing
                                              making the first move. To make sure the      to develop a hyper-personalized         business, technological and
                                              odds are in their favor, they can rely on    relationship and avoid, for             legal. “Today, the houses that
                                              data. Here is our guide.                     example, offering a product that        are doing well are the ones that
                                                                                           has already been purchased,”            already invested in CRM five to
                                                                                           says Laure Debos, Executive Vice        10 years ago and have had the
                                                                                           President of Epsilon France.            time to improve, rethink their
       Laure Debos
                                              While widespread use of CRM is already                                               distribution network and train
       Executive Vice President of
       Epsilon France                         a matter of fact for many players in the     “Today, it is difficult for companies   their employees. In essence,
                                              retail industry, the same is not always      to set this all up on their own.        digital transformation is a cross-
                                              true for luxury houses. But the current      They will only succeed if they          functional, global project that
                                              health crisis is about to change all that.   rely on partners, even if it means      requires the support of top
                                              With online sales soaring, luxury players    bringing this expertise back in-        management.”
                                              are rethinking clienteling and long-term     house at a later stage, perhaps
                                              relationships. To do so, they must be        after two or three years of             The idea of putting the customer
                                              able to recognize their customers at         operation.”                             at the center was not always the
                                              every interaction, from the moment they                                              norm in the luxury sector. Since
                                              walk through the door of a store, to the                                             the 19th century, it has cultivated
                                                                                                                                   distance and secrecy, an elitist

34                                                                                                                                                                           35
TOWARDS A MORE CONNECTED AND ENGAGED LUXURY                                                                                        SALESFORCE, PUBLICIS LUXE & EPSILON

       approach. Today, the digital            How can they interact effectively
       revolution, Generation Z and the
       Covid-19 crisis are reversing the
                                               with customers on social media?
                                               How can they scale up through an
                                                                                    IN CHINA,
       poles: “They impose a logic of
       proximity rather than distance, of
                                               omnichannel strategy?                THE ENCHANTMENT
       transparency rather than opacity,
       of interactivity rather than one-
                                               To do all this, companies must       THAT MONEY CAN’T BUY
                                                                                    (ANYMORE)
                                               break down organizational silos.
       way relationships. It’s a disruption.   Sharing information between
       We are moving from a brand-             businesses requires a single
       centric logic to a customer-centric     customer database, a customer
       logic, even if luxury may never go      management platform that
       as far as retail.”                      guarantees access to data for all
                                               employees from a single entry
       QUICK WINS                              point, a single platform. A single                               After the bling years, young Chinese
                                               source of truth.                                                 consumers are adopting a more informed
       How many years will it take                                                                              relationship with luxury houses. Does this
       to get there? It depends on                                                                              mean that the balance of power has shifted?
       the size of the house and its                                                                            An interview with Déborah Marino, Director of
       organization. Under one year is                                                                          Strategic Planning at Publicis Luxe.
       unrealistic. But between 12 and
       36 months, anything is possible.
                                                                                                                How do young Chinese consumers define
       After the evaluation (two to four
                                                                                                                luxury?
       months), a phase of vision based
       on different methodologies                                                   Déborah Marino
                                               The Covid-19 crisis                  Director of Strategic       For a growing proportion of young, educated
       such as design thinking. It is
       then necessary to embark on             imposes a logic of                   Planning at Publicis Luxe   and affluent Chinese “influencers”, luxury is no
       the bold task of explaining this        proximity rather than                                            longer just something that can be bought. Far
       vision by mobilizing executive          distance, of transparency                                        from being an exception, in a country where
       management. A road map will                                                                              material success remains a major objective, this
                                               rather than opacity, of                                          new “golden generation” roots its unique nature
       allow companies to achieve
       various quick wins. How can             interactivity rather than                                        in its rejection of a strictly materialistic vision of
       they quickly optimize e-mailing         one-way relationships.                                           luxury, which it considers inconsistent with its
       campaigns? How can they                 It’s a disruption.                                               values, passions and aspirations. In the eyes of
       improve customer recognition?                                                                            these new consumers, social and cultural capital
                                                                                                                is as important as economic and financial capital.
                                                                                                                That allows them to give meaning to their
                                                                                                                purchases.

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TOWARDS A MORE CONNECTED AND ENGAGED LUXURY                                                                                        SALESFORCE, PUBLICIS LUXE & EPSILON

                                              Simply put, they don’t just want
                                              to feel rich. For them, the true
                                              mark of success is to get what
                                                                                   ONLY 20%
                                              money can’t buy. For example,
                                              exclusive access to an auction,      OF GENERATION Z IN THE US SAY THEY ARE FANS
                                              to a network, or to specific         OF LUXURY ACCORDING TO THE #ZGENERATION
                                              knowledge and skills... This is      STUDY CONDUCTED BY IFOP AND DARKPLANNEUR
                                              the idea that “money can’t buy       (2018).
                                              everything” – that true riches are
                                              knowledge, culture and privilege,
                                              not just the fact of being able
                                              to acquire an object. They want      This new vision of luxury is           story and the more sophisticated
                                              purchasing knowledge instead of      accompanied by another                 the journey, the richer things
                                              just purchasing power.               phenomenon: the rise and               become for the brand. It may
                                                                                   justification of a new line of         seem counterintuitive to Western
                                                                                   upscale Chinese and Asian brands       eyes, but the customer journey in
                                              Where do these developments
                                                                                   and products. Korean luxury            China is like an adventure, where
                                              stem from?
                                                                                   brands – in fashion, beauty and        the notions of discovery and
                                                                                   even culture – are very successful     learning are key.
                                              In China, we are currently
                                                                                   in China. We can even talk about
                                              witnessing a true cultural
                                                                                   Chinese pride. China no longer         In the luxury sector in China,
                                              reversal among the most socially
                                                                                   has an inferiority complex. It is no   companies should not sell
                                              influential classes and, in terms
                                                                                   longer the world’s factory and the     but tell. Each journey must be
                                              of consumption, the rise of
                                                                                   Chinese no longer feel the need to     personalized, structured and
                                              discretion or understatement.
                                                                                   go abroad to buy luxury products.      enriched to the extreme. For
                                              For them, the signs of success no
                                                                                   Their history, know-how and            example, a purchase process
                                              longer lie in the mere possession
                                                                                   values are also fabulous sources       may last several years. Behind
                                              of money. The anti-corruption
                                                                                   of value for a more nationalistic      each object is a long history and
                                              campaign launched by Xi Jinping
                                                                                   consumer.                              legacy. But be careful: while the
                                              in 2012 has left its mark on
                                                                                                                          ecosystems must be complex, the
                                              Chinese society and its elites.
                                                                                   You explain that in China, “it is      transaction must remain simple
                                              The limitless and ostentatious
                                                                                   no longer necessary to sell but        and easy. In short, companies
                                              staging of luxury brands is no
                                                                                   to tell”. What does this mean?         must market products with a
                                              longer successful. The purchase
                                                                                                                          beautiful story, like a Gallimard
                                              as an end in itself is no longer
                                                                                   This generation is very                book, combined with a simple
                                              appreciated by this new, more
                                                                                   comfortable with the complex           transaction like on Amazon.
                                              educated generation, which feels
                                              it knows why it chooses a certain    ecosystems typical of the media
                                              brand, product or experience.        journey in China and Asia in
                                                                                   general. The more layered the

38                                                                                                                                                                 39
TOWARDS A MORE CONNECTED AND ENGAGED LUXURY                                                                                        SALESFORCE, PUBLICIS LUXE & EPSILON

       Listening to you, China is quite a      ourselves if the new Chinese
       challenge for luxury houses …           way of telling the story of luxury
                                               products will be the future of the
                                                                                    GENERATION Z,
       Yes, China is a real laboratory         sector’s communication in the
                                               West.
                                                                                    A TASTE FOR
                                                                                    UNADORNED LUXURY
       for them. It’s necessary to
       observe behavioral changes
       closely because it is impossible
       to anticipate the creation of new
       formats. In this market, there is a
       need for an avant-garde approach                                             Breaking with Millennials’           affinity groups, as Eric Briones
       that demands incredible effort                                               fascination for all that glitters,   and Nicolas André described
       and imagination from brands.                                                 Generation Z is forcing luxury       perfectly in their recent book,
                                                                                    houses not only to rethink           Le Choc Z (Dunod, 2020). The
       To conclude, I think it is absolutely                                        their values, but also their         Zs unite around the values of
       necessary to establish an                                                    pricing policies. A necessary        inclusiveness, gender neutrality,
       observatory on the cultural                                                  reconsideration for the future.      entrepreneurship... If Millennials
       distribution of certain practices.                                                                                betrayed (especially on social
       What luxury houses must do in                                                They are called Generation Z.        media) an unbridled adoration
       China to attract these new types                                             They were born between 1995          for anything remotely resembling
       of consumers will generate a                                                 and 2010 and will account            luxury, Generation Z is distancing
       unique skillset. We can then ask                                             for one-third of the world’s         itself from the term. Less
                                                                                    population in 2020. Taken            impressionable, often less spendy,
                                                                                    on their own, Zs spend the           they don’t hesitate to question
                                                                                    equivalent of 3 trillion euros       luxury brands by putting their
                                                                                    globally each year and, in France,   finger where it hurts: values,
                                                                                    a little over 60 billion euros,      meaning, price...
                                                                                    according to a study published
                                                                                    in 2019 by OC & C Strategy           “The previous generations
                                                                                    Consultants. Its relationship to     bought luxury products as if they
                                                                                    luxury? Reasonable. Forget the       were entering a sacred temple,”
                                                                                    selfie generation of Millennials.    explains Nicolas André, Director
                                                                                    Generation Z is camped out           of Strategic Planning at Epsilon
                                                                                    in the world of the future, one      France. “For Generation Z, it’s
                                                                                    that is more collective, as they     the opposite. It’s up to luxury
                                                                                    navigate seamlessly between          to adapt to them.” The good

40                                                                                                                                                                  41
TOWARDS A MORE CONNECTED AND ENGAGED LUXURY                                                                                     SALESFORCE, PUBLICIS LUXE & EPSILON

       news is that the great struggle of     Secondly, through more                  WAITING FOR GENERATION
       this generation is inclusiveness:      sophisticated tools, such as            ALPHA
       they want a more fluid society,        blockchain, which ensure product                                             GENERATION Z NO LONGER
       with more freedom, parity and          traceability and facilitate the         Another major trend:                 HAS A RELATIONSHIP OF
       equality.                              resale of luxury products between       entrepreneurship, which is a         FASCINATION WITH LUXURY.
                                              individuals. Also according to          leading value for Generation Z.      IT PREFERS PRIVATE SALES
       The luxury sector is one of the        Ifop: 47% of French Zs bought           This generation is conscious of      AND SECOND-HAND ITEMS.
       best placed to provide this            luxury goods at private sales, and      the role companies must play
       fluidity. “For Generation Z, brands    36% bought second-hand luxury           to defend causes. This desire
       can be game-changers and are           goods.                                  for collaboration pushes luxury
       better able to bring about change                                              houses to play the (vital) game
       than political movements,” says        “Luxury houses cannot ignore            of inclusivity, like L’Oréal with
       André.                                 this trend without running the          Nuxe and Biotherm, or LVMH
                                              risk of encouraging counterfeits.       with Fenty, alongside the star
       THE PRICE OF LUXURY                    With total cynicism, Generation         Rihanna… In doing so, luxury
                                              Z will not hesitate to resort to        houses, which have the required
                                              counterfeits if they feel a product     cash flow and financial strength,
       Generation Z is the first to say
                                              is too expensive.”                      are getting a facelift and
       they no longer want to pay the
                                                                                      accelerating their transformation.
       price of luxury: 57% say it is
                                              This generation no longer has a         And what if Generation Z gives
       too high, according to a study
                                              relationship of fascination with        them wings?
       conducted by Ifop for the Grand
       Prix Stratégies du Luxe 2019. And      luxury. In the United States, for
       to question the pricing power          example, only 20% of young
       of luxury is to attack one of its      people from Generation Z
       sacred pillars. The weapons            say they are fans of luxury,
       used to do this are now well           according to the #ZGeneration
       known: the use of second-hand          study conducted by Ifop and
       goods and the circular economy.        Darkplanneur. In other words, you
       First, through community sales         can still lead a successful life even
       platforms (Vinted, Videdressing,       if you’re wearing a counterfeit
       Vestiaire Collective, etc.).           Rolex at age 50.

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TOWARDS A MORE CONNECTED AND ENGAGED LUXURY                                          SALESFORCE, PUBLICIS LUXE & EPSILON

                                              During the crisis, Chanel,
       VALUES                                 Hermès, LVMH and Kering took
                                              remarkable action. Among
       ARE NO                                 their many initiatives, we can
                                              mention the maintenance of
       LONGER                                 their employees’ salaries, the
                                              production of masks and hand
       A LUXURY                               sanitizer, as well as donations to
                                              hospitals.

                                              Salesforce shares the same
                                              vision of its responsibility as a
                                              company. “Leaders can no longer
       What do venerable luxury               afford to separate their business
       houses share with a digital            goals from the societal issues
       transformation pioneer like            that surround them,” writes
       Salesforce? A lot. Including,          Salesforce CEO Marc Benioff in
       certainly, a shared responsibility     the introduction to Trailblazer, his
       to their employees, customers,         latest book published in France
       ecosystem and the society              in 2020.
       around them.
                                              “Their mission can no longer be
                                              a binary choice: grow or give,
                                              turn a profit or promote the
                                              common good, innovate or make
                                              our world more livable.” Marc
                                              Benioff is convinced that we are
                                              on the threshold of a revolution in
                                              trust. “Intellectually, we all know
                                              that the moment you put growth
                                              before trust, a problem will
                                              eventually arise. It can happen to
                                              the best of leaders, to the most
                                              respected of companies.”

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