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Park Info National Park Service U.S. Department of the Interior The Novarupta A trip planning and information guide to Alagnak Wild River Aniakchak National Monument and Preserve Katmai National Park and Preserve Issue Number 2021 ANELA KOPSHERVER What’s Inside: Brooks Camp...............6 Katmai Origins............14 Backcountry Travel....20 NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC SOCIETY NPS PHOTO LIAN LAW
Three National Parks, Many Amazing Experiences Welcome to Katmai Country National Park Service Welcome to Katmai! eruption of Novarupta in 1912 took place U.S. Department of the Interior long ago when compared to a human Katmai National Park and Preserve lifespan, but is geologically recent. The (Katmai) lies within the ancestral resulting ash covered everything for miles homelands of the Alutiit-Sugpiat (Aleut) and even today life is still recovering from Alagnak Wild River people. Human habitation of this region the effects of the eruption. Aniakchak National Monument and goes back many thousands of years and Preserve speaks of thriving communities and Many dedicated individuals from diverse Katmai National Park and Preserve perseverance in the face of challenging walks of life have worked tirelessly over Katmai was declared a National Monument environments. Today, the Alutiit-Sugpiat the years to ensure that wildlife remains in 1918; Aniakchak in 1978. The Alaska people strive to maintain their traditional abundant and diverse throughout this National Interest Lands Conservation Act of lifeways even in light of pressure region. It is in large part because of 1980 established Alagnak Wild River, while brought on by an ever-changing world. these efforts that Katmai today supports Katmai and Aniakchak were expanded to Their connections to these lands are world-class fisheries and outstanding include national preserve areas. Katmai was enduring and worthy of our respect. wildlife viewing opportunities. To observe also redesignated a national park. Together, According, I would like to take a moment an Alaskan brown bear in its natural these lands encompass nearly five million to acknowledge our Alaska Native environment is a testament to the priorities acres of unique landscapes managed by the communities—be they Alutiit-Sugpiat, of our nation. National Park Service. Dena’ina, or Yup’ik—for their enduring legacy as the caretakers of this wonderous Recently, we have all experienced some Mailing Address PO Box 7 land we are fortunate to experience, and very trying times due to the far-reaching King Salmon, AK 99613 today call Katmai. effects of the global coronavirus pandemic. Last year we were able to operate, albeit Park Headquarters Geographically, Katmai is found on the at a reduced operational capacity and this Phone: 907-246-3305 Alaska Peninsula which encompasses a vast year promises to be similar, though we are Fax: 907-246-2116 and beautiful landscape where the National striving to expand visitor services where Park Service also has the privilege of possible during the 2021 season. Thank you Websites managing Aniakchak National Monument for your understanding and cooperation Alagnak: www.nps.gov/alag and Preserve, and the Alagnak Wild River. with Covid-19 related mitigations; your Aniakchak: www.nps.gov/ania Regardless of your interests, collectively adherence to them will help us stay open Katmai: www.nps.gov/katm these different park areas offer a diversity of throughout the season. outstanding Alaskan experiences. We are glad you have come here to The geology of Katmai is both ancient experience for yourself the sights, sounds, and new. The park’s diverse landscapes and feel of this special place and we hope comprise expansive mountains, active that you take home many memories that volcanoes, flowing glaciers and a wild and will last a lifetime. beautiful seacoast that is frequently fed by sparkling rivers and lakes. The cataclysmic Mark Sturm, Superintendent Contents: Southwest Alaska’s Parklands.................................................2-3 Katmai and the National Park Idea......................................14-15 Essential Information...................................................................4 Exploring the Human History of Katmai..................................16 Getting Here, Getting Around....................................................5 Cycle of the Salmon...................................................................17 Welcome to Brooks Camp........................................................6-7 Fishing Information...................................................................18 Camping at Brooks Camp............................................................8 Backcountry Travel................................................................20-21 Brooks Camp Map........................................................................9 Aniakchak National Monument...........................................22-23 Bear Viewing.........................................................................10-11 Alagnak Wild River...............................................................24-25 Safe Travels in Bear Country.....................................................12 Park Neighbors......................................................................26-27 Live Bearcams.............................................................................13 Support Your Public Lands........................................................28 2 The Novarupta
Alagnak Aniakchak Katmai Wild River National Monument and Preserve National Park and Preserve Unbounded by dams or artificial channels, Midway down the wild, remote, and On June 6, 1912 residents of the northern the Alagnak River meanders its way from mostly roadless Alaska Peninsula lies Alaska Peninsula experienced one of the headwaters in the Aleutian Range across one of the nation’s most fascinating, but largest volcanic eruptions in recorded the Alaska Peninsula to Bristol Bay and the least visited, volcanic features. Aniakchak history. The eruption at Novarupta Bering Sea. The upper 69 miles of river are National Monument and Preserve volcano sent ash over 100,000 feet into the designated a national wild river, meaning surrounds a large caldera formed by the atmosphere, led to the collapse of Mount free flow, no dams, and little human impact. collapse of a 7,000 foot volcano. Set inland Katmai, and created the Valley of Ten in a place of frequent clouds and fierce Thousand Smokes. From the time of the earliest Alaskans, the storms, Aniakchak was unknown to all river has given much to those willing to but area residents until the 1920s, and had Katmai National Monument was learn its ways. In summer, the river teems its last eruption in 1931. Nestled inside established in 1918 to protect the with salmon. Falls brings migrating caribou the caldera is Surprise Lake, a remnant of volcanically devastated region surrounding and berries. It traverses the beautiful Alaska a much larger lake that catastrophically Mount Katmai and the Valley of Ten Peninsula, providing opportunities to drained in a massive flood. Warm springs, Thousand Smokes. Today, Katmai National experience the unique wilderness, wildlife, melting snow, and glaciers feed Surprise Park and Preserve is still an active volcanic and cultural heritage of the area. Lake, which in turn gives rise to the landscape, which also protects 9,000 years Aniakchak Wild River. of human history as well as important This river is one of the most popular habitat for salmon and the thousands of sport fishing destinations in all of Alaska. This narrow stretch of the Alaska brown bears that feed on them. Alagnak’s extraordinary rainbow trout, Peninsula boasts a rich human history. char, grayling, and abundant salmon are Volcanoes, earthquakes, and tsunamis Katmai is a rugged and diverse land where some of the most attractive sport fish in the have interrupted the human story, yet bears are plentiful, salmon leap watefalls on world, and the river has become the most the land abides as a wild place where their journey to spawn, steaming volcanoes popular fly-in fishing destination in all of people can experience independence and serve as a reminder of the earth’s power, Southwest Alaska. interdependence. Life has persisted here and where cultural change continues. in the face of catastrophic change. See pages 24-25 for more information. See pages 6-21 for more information. See pages 22-23 for more information. M. FITZ Glacially shrouded volcanoes, like Mount Mageik, form the geologic backbone of the Alaska Peninsula. Katmai National Park is the site of the largest volcanic eruption of the 20th century (see pages 14-15). The Novarupta 3
Essential Information Dates and Hours of Operation page 12 for bear safety information. Only non-guided sport hunting is allowed in Alagnak, Aniakchak, and Katmai are open 24 the Alagnak Wild River corridor. In all other hours a day every day of the year. Most services Visitors to Brooks Camp are required, upon areas, sport hunting is prohibited. All hunting such as lodges and air taxis operate seasonally. arrival, to participate in a brief, mandatory bear activities require a license and are subject to safety talk at the Brooks Camp Visitor Center. National Park Service and Alaska Department National Park Service and concessionaire of Fish and Game regulations and restrictions. operated facilities at Brooks Camp are open Food Storage from June 1 through September 17. All food, beverages, garbage, equipment used Weather to cook or store food, and/or any odorous Even during summer, visitors to the Alaska Camping items must be properly stored in an approved Peninsula should be prepared for cool and Within 1.5 miles (2.4 km) of Brooks Falls (i.e., bear-resistant container (BRC) or one of the stormy conditions with frequent strong the Brooks Camp Developed Area), camping food/gear caches at Brooks Camp. Certified winds. Clear skies occur about 20 percent of is only allowed at Brooks Camp Campground. bear-resistant products approved by the days. Visitors traveling to the Aniakchak area Camping is permitted elsewhere in Katmai with Department of Interior and Agriculture‘s should expect significantly cooler, stormier, some seasonal exceptions (see Hallo Bay, page Interagency Grizzly Bear Committee can and windier conditions. Wherever you travel, 20) and on any public lands within Aniakchak be found at http://igbconline.org/certified- remain aware of the dangers and treatments and Alagnak. products-list/. The Alaska Department of for hypothermia and be equipped with Fish and Game has an additional list of appropriate clothing and a shelter. Fees and Reservations approved items at www.adfg.alaska.gov/index. There are no entrance fees associated with cfm?adfg=livingwithbears.bearcontainers. Pets public use of Alagnak, Aniakchak, and Katmai. Pets are not allowed within 1.5 miles (2.4 km) Hunting of Brooks Falls (i.e. the Brooks Camp Reservations and fees are required for camping Sport hunting is only permitted in Preserve Developed Area). In other areas, pets must be in Brooks Camp Campground and must be areas of Katmai National Park and Preserve and leashed or physically restrained at all times. made by telepone or online prior to arrival. See Aniakchak National Monument and Preserve. pages 8-9 for more camping information. Reservations and fees also apply for public use of Fure’s Cabin at the northeast corner of the Bay of Islands on Naknek Lake. Reservations can be made through www.recreation.gov. Visitor Centers The Brooks Camp Visitor Center, open June 1 until late September, is the point of entry for all visitors to Brooks Camp. A park ranger is on duty to provide information, campground check-in, bear safety talks, and backcountry Weather Information for King Salmon, Alaska planning. An Alaska Geographic Association (AKGeo) bookstore offers books, maps, and Month Average High Average Low Average Precip. other Katmai-related items (see page 28). January 22.8°F (-5.1°C) 8.0°F (-13.3°C) 1.03” (26.2 mm) Located next door to the King Salmon Airport, February 23.8°F (-4.6°C) 7.4°F (-13.7°C) .72” (18.3 mm) the King Salmon Visitor Center provides March 32.0°F (0°C) 15.1°F (-9.4°C) .79” (20.1 mm) information on the many federal public lands April 41.3°F (5.2°C) 24.9°F (-3.9°C) .94” (22.9 mm) in Southwest Alaska, particularly those in the Bristol Bay area. A large collection of films is May 52.1°F (11.2°C) 34.8°F (1.6°C) 1.35” (34.3 mm) available for viewing and an AKGeo bookstore June 59.5°F (15.3°C) 42.2°F (5.7°C) 1.70” (43.2 mm) sells maps, marine charts, videos, posters, July 63.8°F (17.7°C) 47.5°F (8.6°C) 2.15” (54.6 mm) clothing, and more. Contact the King Salmon Visitor Center at 907-246-4250. August 62.2°F (16.8°C) 47.4°F (8.6°C) 2.89” (73.4 mm) September 54.9°F (12.7°C) 40.3°F (4.6°C) 2.81” (71.4 mm) Bears October 40.5°F (4.7°C) 26.0°F (-3.3°C) 2.10” (53.3 mm) This is bear country! Be prepared for a bear encounter! The Alaska Peninsula has a November 30.5°F (-0.8°C) 15.9°F (-8.9°C) 1.54” (39.1 mm) substantial population of brown bears. See December 25.1°F (-3.8°C) 9.3°F (-12.6°C) 1.39” (35.3 mm) 4 The Novarupta
Getting Here, Getting Around Quick Tips for Accessing Three of the Most Remote National Park Units Many people consider Southwest Aniakchak, and Katmai—provide a variety Brooks Camp and other locations along the Alaska’s remoteness to be an attractive of commercial visitor services, including Naknek River drainage can be reached by characteristic, but the remote nature of transportation, guided day trips, guided both motorized and non-motorized boats the area necessitates careful planning multi-day trips, overnight accommodations from Naknek and King Salmon, located in order to overcome certain logistical and food services. Commercial partners west of the Katmai. Boats can access the and accessibility challenges. Unlike are authorized by permit to operate in Alagnak River from towns and villages most national parks in the United States, the parks. A complete list of services is along Bristol Bay and the Kvichak River. Alagnak, Aniakchak, and Katmai are available at go.nps.gov/AKComm. almost exclusively accessed by plane or Aniakchak National Monument and boat. Much of this area is rarely visited and Katmai National Park and Preserve and Preserve opportunities for incredible wilderness Alagnak Wild River Aniakchak is one of the least visited and experiences abound. Other areas, such as Katmai is located on the Alaska Peninsula, most remote of all national park areas Brooks Camp, are more easily accessed and west of the Shelikof Strait and Afognak in the United States. It is located on the have amenities like lodging and hot meals. and Kodiak Islands. The Alagnak River is Alaska Peninsula about 450 miles (724 km) located on the Alaska Peninsula about 260 southwest of Anchorage and 150 miles (241 The National Park Service headquarters for miles (418 km) southwest of Anchorage. km) southwest of King Salmon. Alagnak, Aniakchak, and Katmai is located Most destinations in the Katmai region, about 290 miles southwest of Anchorage including Brooks Camp and Alagnak River, Most people access Aniakchak by chartered in King Salmon. Regularly scheduled may be directly accessed via air taxi flights airplanes departing from King Salmon and commercial flights to King Salmon are originating from Anchorage, Dillingham, other nearby towns and villages. Boats available from the Ted Stevens Anchorage Homer, Iliamna, King Salmon, Kodiak, can access the monument and preserve International Airport. Soldotna, and other nearby towns and from the Pacific Ocean coastline. A few villages. adventurous groups have also hiked into These parklands are open year-round for the Aniakchak Caldera via a cross-country the adventurous. Numerous companies— Boats can access Katmai from villages and route from Port Heiden. over 115 in and around Alagnak, towns along the Pacific Ocean coastline. To view a map turn to page 26. NPS/M. FITZ The Novarupta 5
Welcome to Brooks Camp A. KOPSHEVER Brooks Camp is renowned for its remarkable bear viewing opportunities. For information about bear viewing at Brooks Camp, see page 10. Brooks Lodge The Bear Essentials: Lodging, meals, flights, and many other services at Brooks Camp are provided Brooks Camp attracts people from all over Naknek Lake (the largest lake within any by Katmailand, the park’s authorized the world to fish for trout and salmon, to national park in the United States). From concessioner view brown bears, explore the Valley of Ten June 1 to September 17, the NPS operates a For information on Katmailand’s sport Thousand Smokes, and to learn about the visitor center, ranger station, campground, fishing, bear viewing, air services, and long human history of the area. and auditorium. Check at the Brooks Camp lodging and meal service opportunities go to Visitor Center for any scheduled ranger www.katmailand.com or call Brooks Camp is situated at the mouth programs. 1-800-544-0551. of the Brooks River, along the shore of Please Remember... Food Storage Do not carry food, beverages, or any other Camping Within 1.5 miles (2.4 km) of Brooks Falls, Upon Your Arrival odorous items around Brooks Camp. All food camping is only allowed in the Brooks Camp Visitors to Brooks Camp are required to check and drinks, except plain water, must be stored Campground (see pages 8-9). in at the visitor center for a brief bear safety inside a building or in a designated food cache. talk outlining park regulations. These important Eat and drink only in buildings or at designated Bear Viewing regulations are designed specifically to keep picnic areas. Only water can be consumed Viewing platforms are situated to provide bears and people safe in Brooks Camp. outside designated picnic areas. exceptional opportunities for observing bears. Three platforms are located at the mouth of Accessibility Gear and Equipment Storage Brooks River. Two other platforms—Falls and While most trails around Brooks Camp and the All gear and equipment must be attended Riffles—are located at Brooks Falls. Note: trail to Brooks Falls are wheelchair accessible, or properly stored inside a building. Gear or these platforms are closed between 10:00 they are not paved and are frequently muddy. equipment cannot be left unattended at any pm and 7:00 am, June 15 to August 15. The walk to Brooks Falls can be arduous for time. Storage caches for gear are located at some people with limited mobility. A limited the Brooks Camp Visitor Center, Lake Brooks, Outdoor Recreational Opportunities number of wheelchairs are available to borrow and in the campground. A variety of hiking, fishing, and boating from the visitor center. opportunities are available at Brooks Camp. For information visit https://go.nps.gov/rn68sz. 6 The Novarupta
Programs Junior Ranger Program Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes Tour Evening Slide Show Programs Learn about Katmai’s natural and cultural A park ranger leads this scenic bus ride Join a park ranger for a 45-minute illustrated resources by completeing activities designed through some of Katmai’s spectacular program offering information and interesting to help you engage with the park. While backcountry. After lunch at the Robert F. perspectives on Katmai’s special features, geared toward children 5 to 13, all ages can Griggs Visitor Center overlooking the Valley of history, and wildlife. Inquire at the visitor participate. Free Junior Ranger books are Ten Thousand Smokes, join an optional park center for times and topics. available at the King Salmon and Brooks Camp ranger-led hike into the Valley. The hike is 3.4 visitor centers or online https://go.nps.gov/ miles (5.5 km) round-trip, with 1,000 feet (305 Cultural History Walk katmranger. Turn in completed books to either m) of elevation change. Sturdy boots, water, A park ranger leads this short .25 mile (0.4 km) visitor center where a ranger will swear you in, raingear, and warm clothes are recommended. walk sharing the human history of Brooks River sign your certificate, and present you with your The tour is 7–8 hours. Inquire at Brooks Lodge Archeological District and National Historic official badge. Books can also be mailed to: for reservations or contact Katmailand at Landmark, including traditional Alaska Native Katmai National Park and Preserve 1-800-544-0551 and www.katmailand.com. uses of plants and animals. The walk lasts Division of Interpretation about an hour and leads to a reconstructed PO Box 7 Alutiiq/Sugpiaq dwelling. King Salmon, AK 99613 NPS NPS NPS Creature Comforts: Braving Alaska’s Infamous Insects Rain, cold winds, and the unrelenting early summer. No-see-ums (very small percent of the summer. The best defense is onslaught of biting insects—the beauty of biting midges) peak in August. Population to cover up. Many people report that insect Alaska does indeed come at a price. sizes vary each year depending on weather repellent containing DEET is not always and temperatures. No-see-ums could reign effective. Therefore, it is wise to invest in While photographers are busy lining up supreme one year and seem nonexistent a good head net, wear long sleeved shirts, the perfect shot at Brooks Falls, black flies the next. Everyone reacts differently to and be prepared to tuck your pant legs into and mosquitoes are working at an equally insect bites and thus there are differing your socks on particularly buggy days. frantic pace to find the perfect shot into the opinions on which insect is the peskiest. photographers’ skin. So what do you need It may be difficult to see value in the Class to know in order to survive with your skin One of the most despised insects around Insecta, but consider the indispensable role intact? For starters, don’t plan on being Brooks Camp is the white sock. A species these insects play in the ecosystem. Male attacked by mosquitoes alone. of small biting black fly, they are nicknamed mosquitos and black flies are pollinators. for characteristic white stripes on their They all serve as food sources for other At Katmai, mosquitos and black flies are legs. Swarms can be brutal and persistent, animals. Furthermore, they respond more typically most abundant in late spring and working their way under clothing. Female quickly to environmental changes than flies rasp into the skin of their hosts, unlike vertebrates do, which can help provide mosquitoes that merely pierce the skin with early detection of ecological changes. their needle-like proboscis. Bites can be identified by a characteristic red incision Regardless of their ecological importance, mark in the middle of the swollen bite area. the insects of Katmai provide visitors with something else: stories to take back home— Relief from biting insects usually arrives battle scars, even—to remind us that the on days when the weather is windy, rainy, beauty of Alaska can’t be won without M. FITZ Biting insects, like mosquitoes and black flies, are and just generally dismal. Fortunately, skies persevering through hardships, however ubiquitous in Katmai. Expect close encounters! around Brooks Camp are clear for only 20 large, or small, they may be. The Novarupta 7
Brooks Camp Campground The only developed campground in Katmai National Park and Preserve is located at Brooks Camp. With its wildlife viewing opportunities, access to Naknek Lake, and stunning views of nearby mountains, the Brooks Camp Campground is considered by many to be one of the top campgrounds in North America. NPS/B. LUTES Because of the high numbers of bears in the NPS/M. FITZ Brooks Camp area, the campground is specially managed to minimize human–bear conflicts. Facilities in the campground include cooking and eating shelters as well as food and gear caches. Campers must take special precautions to reduce odors from food, garbage, and Cooking which also contains a trash receptacle. In order anything else that could appeal to a bear’s All cooking and eating must take place within to prevent curious bears from investigating, strong sense of smell. one of the three shared cooking shelters. (As please store any unused equipment in the gear a safety precaution, campers arriving by air storage cache adjacent to the food cache. A Campground reservations are required May to with portable camp stoves should bring empty fireproof locker is available to store flammable October and must be made in advance. The fuel bottles and purchase fuel at the Brooks materials, such as stove fuel. campground has a limit of 60 people. See page Lodge Trading Post.) Wash dishes and cooking 9 for more information. utensils at the water spigot near the food Electrified Fence storage cache. Brooks Camp Campground is enclosed within Campfires an electric fence designed to deter bears from Campfires are allowed in the three designated Food and Gear Storage entering. The fence is not bear proof, although fire rings near each cooking shelter. Only All food, refuse, and any other odorous items once “shocked,” bears tend to avoid any dead and downed wood may be collected for (e.g., toothpaste, deodorant, etc.) must be subsequent contact with these fences. firewood. Please do not cook over open fires. stored in the centrally located food cache How Far is the Walk to... (one way distances) Visitor Center Falls Platform Brooks Camp Campground Cultural Site Lake Brooks Outhouse Falls Trail Platform South 0.3 mi 0.25 mi 0.3 mi 0.6 mi 1.2 mi 1.2 mi Visitor Center 0 (0.5 km) (0.4 km) (0.5 km) (1 km) (1.9 km) (1.9 km) Brooks Camp 0.3 mi 0.55mi 0.6 mi 0.9 mi 1.4 mi 1.5 mi 0 Campground (0.5 km) (0.9 km) (1 km) (1.4 km) (2.3 km) (2.4 km) 0.25 mi 0.55 mi 0.55 mi 0.85 mi 1.45 mi 1.55 mi Cultural Site 0 (0.4 km) (0.9 km) (0.9 km) (1.4 km) (2.3 km) (2.5 km) 0.3 mi 0.6 mi 0.55 mi 0.3 mi 0.9 mi 1 mi South Platform 0 (0.5 km) (1 km) (0.9 km) (.5 km) (1.4 km) (1.6 km) 0.6 mi 0.9 mi 0.85mi 0.3 mi 0.6 mi 0.7 mi Falls Trail Outhouse 0 (1 km) (1.4 km) (1.4 km) (0.5 km) (1 km) (1.1 km) 1.2 mi 1.4 mi 1.45 mi 0.9 mi 0.6 mi 1.3 mi Brooks Falls Platform 0 (1.9 km) (2.3 km) (2.3 km) (1.4 km) (1 km) (2.1 km) 1.2 mi 1.5 mi 1.55 mi 1 mi 0.7 mi 1.3 mi Lake Brooks 0 (1.9 km) (2.4 km) (2.5 km) (1.6 km) (1.1 km) (2.1 km) 8 The Novarupta
Campground Reservations Reservations are required for the Brooks campground is usually full, must be prepared Camp Campground from May to October. to backcountry camp outside of the Brooks Reservations can be made beginning January Camp Developed Area—defined as the area 5 each year. Telephone and internet access are within 1.5 miles (2.4 km) of Brooks Falls. not available at Brooks Camp, so campground reservations must be made prior to your arrival. Reservations cost $12.00 per person per night NPS/M. FITZ from June 1–September 17 and $6 per person During the month of July, campsites may per night in May and September 18 to October be reserved for a maximum of seven nights, 31. Please visit www.recreation.gov or call Brooks Camp Campground is surrounded by an electric fence. It is bear-resistant, but not bear- cumulatively. Campers arriving without a 877-444-6777 (within United States), 518-885- proof. Campers must take precautions so that bears reservation, especially during July when the 3639 (international). are not tempted to enter the campground. Brooks Camp Area Map Bear Jam! Bear activity may delay travel in Brooks Camp at any time. Be prepared to wait in windy and/or rainy conditions and allow yourself ample time to meet meal services and/or your departing flight. The Novarupta 9
Bear Viewing at Brooks Camp Bears Galore Brooks Camp is world famous for its bear viewing opportunities. It is one of the most accessible and popular bear watching sites in Katmai National Park. Watching bears at Brooks Camp is an unforgettable experience, but timing your trip properly is critical because the overall number of bears as well as their general behavior varies with the seasons. When can bears be seen at Brooks Camp? Bear viewing at Brooks Camp is best from very late June through the end of July and again in September. At other times of the year, like June and August, less food is available along the Brooks River so bears are not seen as frequently. NPS/M. FITZ Springtime is a lean season for bears. Little food is typically available to bears in the Watching a mother bear play with her cub is an unforgettable experience. spring so bears are dispersed throughout The behavior and appearance of the bears Brooks Falls. the area and are only infrequently seen at also varies with the season. In July, more Brooks Camp in May and June. aggressive interactions between bears In July, many of the bears that cannot are observed, especially at the beginning compete for fishing spots at Brooks Falls When the salmon begin to arrive in late of the month. Bears are also thinner and will fish the lower half of the Brooks River. June, bears migrate to the Brooks River. many will shed their fur at this time. In At this time of the year, females with cubs Bears can be seen fishing at Brooks Falls September, bears at Brooks Camp are are usually easiest to see near the mouth of and in the lower Brooks River throughout typically less aggressive towards each the Brooks River. the month of July. Mid-July is typically other. In contrast to early summer, bears in when the largest number of bears can be September and later in the fall are usually After the salmon begin to spawn and die in seen along the river. In late July, after the fat and covered with a new coat of fur. late summer, bear activity is concentrated salmon run peaks, bears begin to disperse in the lower half of the Brooks River. In to feed in other areas. Where can bears be seen at Brooks Camp? some years a few bears may still fish at The brown bears of Katmai are eating Brooks Falls and the upper Brooks River In August, salmon are beginning to spawn machines. A Katmai bear must eat a in September and October, but most will in the Brooks River, but they are less full year’s worth of food in 6-8 months patrol the slower moving waters of the concentrated, remain energetic, and are to ensure its survival. Katmai’s bears lower Brooks River as they search for dead no longer migrating. This creates difficult predictably congregate around rich and and dying salmon that collect in the slow fishing conditions for bears and almost all concentrated sources of food. At Brooks moving currents and eddies near the river of the bears will leave the area. Like June, Camp this means salmon. mouth and bridge. there are typically days in August when no bears are seen at Brooks Camp. During the peak of the salmon migration Five wildlife viewing platforms can be in July, bears will fish for salmon all found along the river – one at Brooks Falls, By late August, many salmon have already along the Brooks River, but bears will be one downstream of the falls, and three at spawned and will begin to die. As the fish especially concentrated at Brooks Falls. the mouth of Brooks River. Each one can weaken and die, bears will again migrate The falls creates a temporary barrier to offer unique bear watching experiences in to the Brooks River to feed. In September, migrating salmon which gives some bears season. bears are usually present in high numbers the opportunity to catch many fish with as they search for dead and dying salmon. little effort. Typically, the largest and most Other Considerations dominant bears along the river fish at Brooks Camp is a unique place with special 10 The Novarupta
regulations designed to protect bears and as well as biting insects like mosquitos and Give yourself extra time to walk to and people. black flies. from Brooks Falls, especially in July and September. Everyone who arrives at Brooks Camp is Weather and bear encounters can required to check in at the Brooks Camp sometimes delay the arrival and departure More people visit Brooks Camp in July Visitor Center for a brief bear safety talk of float planes, so it is usually best to than any other month. If you come at this outlining park regulations and proper incorporate some extra time into your time, expect crowded conditions especially behavior at Brooks Camp. itinerary in case of any delays. at Brooks Falls Platform. Wait times to access Brooks Falls Platform commonly Be sure to dress and pack in anticipation of Access to the elevated boardwalk exceed 1.5 hours in July, especially midday. diverse and changing weather conditions. across Brooks River can temporarily The Platform is closed 10pm to 7am June Whether staying for just a few hours or close because of bear activity near the 15–August 15. for several days, you should expect to boardwalk entrances. Bear activity on the encounter windy, cool, and wet weather trail to Brooks Falls can also delay tavel. Other Bear Viewing Opportunities in Katmai A bear’s waking hours are often dominated by their search for food. Outside of their denning Where the Wild Things Are: A Bear Viewing Calendar for season, bears predictably congregate in food Katmai National Park and Preserve rich areas throughout the Katmai region. Some areas of Katmai National Park, like the food Location June July August September (primary food) rich Pacific coast, support some of the highest densities of bears ever documented. Other areas of the park with little food, such as the Brooks Camp (salmon) Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes, support only a few bears in any season. Hallo Bay (vegetation, If you know what foods bears prefer to clams) eat and when that food is most abundant, Geographic accessible, and nutritious, then you will be Harbor able to find many areas in Katmai to observe (salmon) these fascinating animals. Many guided trips Swikshak to observe bears in Katmai’s backcountry are Lagoon available. See the link on page 5. (vegetation) Moraine Creek/ Funnel Creek (salmon) = Few Bears; = Some Bears; = Many Bears NPS/C. TURNER Exceptional wildlife watching opportunities can be found throughout Katmai, like Hallo Bay. The Novarupta 11
You are in Brown Bear Country Prepare for Bear Encounters Anywhere You Go Bears are fascinating animals that add are usually noisier and smellier than a single excitement and risk to any trip in bear person. Therefore, bears often become aware country. Katmai National Park and of groups of people at greater distances, and Preserve, and the surrounding lands in because of their cumulative size groups of people are also passively intimidating to bears. Southwest Alaska, support some of the Hiking and traveling in groups is typically the highest densities of bears on earth, so the best way to increase your level of safety in bear chances of encountering a bear in Katmai country. are very high. Before you begin your visit, learn as much about bears as you can. Remain Calm You need not fear bears, but you do need A bear may approach closely or rear up on its to respect them. Follow these general hind legs to identify you. Back away slowly, = Few Bears; guidelines during your stay and don’t moving out of its line of travel if necessary. hesitate to ask your guide or a ranger for et Too Don’t G You may need to leave a trail temporarily to omfort! more information. allow a bear to pass. If a bear follows you, stop s e f o r C Clo and hold your ground. If a bear continues to approach, make noise, wave your arms, and try Avoid Surprise Encounters Take appropriate steps to avoid surprising to appear as large as possible. bears. Where visibility is limited or where windy conditions prevail, make noise to warn bears If A Bear Makes Contact, Play Dead Give Bears Space of your approach. The human voice is the best Fall to the ground on your stomach with your Do not approach bears within 50 yards (46 tool for this. Bears may not associate other legs apart. Lock your hands behind your neck m), or as otherwise directed by National Park noise makers, such as bells, with people. If to protect your neck and face. If you do get Service personnel. Some bears need more you see a bear that is unaware of you and/or rolled over, keep rolling until you’re face down space than others. To lessen your impact far away, back away slowly and quietly while again. Stay quietly in this position until the on the animals, avoid actions that interfere observing the bear’s behavior. bear has left the area. If the attack continues with bear movement, behavior, or foraging long after you have assumed the protective activities. Please check with a park ranger if Avoid Food Sources That Attract Bears position, fight back vigorously. you’re unsure about a situation. In general, the Bears can be especially protective of greater the distance between yourself and a concentrated food sources like salmon and For More Information and Regulations bear, the safer you can be. animal carcasses, so be especially cautious in Special regulations designed to keep bears areas where bears are likely to gather and feed. and people safe apply in Katmai. See page Hike and Travel in Groups Stay far away from animal carcasses. Bears 6 and Katmai’s bear safety pages at go.nps. Groups of four or more people are typically often defend these aggressively. gov/Katmai_bearsafety for more in-depth very safe in bear country. Groups of people information. Do Not Run Running may encourage a bear to pursue you. Bears can run faster than 30 mph (50 km/hr). You cannot outrun them. If you are charged, try to appear non-threatening. Stand your ground and speak to the bear in a calm voice. Bears sometimes come within a few feet of people before stopping. NPS 12 The Novarupta
Bearcam! Watch Live Streaming Video of Brooks River and Its Famous Bears Watch live footage of brown bears fishing for salmon anywhere with an internet connection. Katmai’s bearcams are live and freely accessible. Cameras are located at Brooks Falls, at the outlet of the Brooks River, near the summit of Dumpling Mountain, and even underwater. Don’t miss a second of the action. Go to go.nps.gov/bearcam and follow the links to these world famous bearcams. Join the Bearcam Community Connect with the growing online community of Katmai and brown bear stewards. Discuss recent and past bearcam events with other fans, share your thoughts on national parks and wildlife conservation, and upload your favorite Streaming webcams at Brooks River take you right bearcam screen shots for others to enjoy. to the action at Brooks Falls. Watch the cams at On social media, use #bearcam and join the go.nps.gov/bearcam. real-time chat at the bottom of any bearcam KATM_calendar or social media pages for Funding for the installation, maintenance, page on www.explore.org/bears. the live chat schedule. and technical support for the bearcams is proudly provided by explore.org. Explore.org Ranger Live Chats is a philanthropic organization with a mission Throughout the year, rangers host live web to champion the selfless acts of others, chats on the bearcams to discuss the create a portal into the soul of humanity, and biology, behavior, and ecology of bears inspire lifelong learning. Katmai was granted and the salmon they depend on. Check the $150,000 by explore.org to further fund park’s calendar of events at go.nps.gov/ educational efforts related to the bearcams. Bears of Brooks River ebook Every bear at Brooks River has a story. Since 2001, biologists at Katmai have conducted in-depth monitoring sessions along Brooks River to record data on bear and human use of the area. Over time, this information has grown into one of the most comprehensive data sets about bear use of a particular place ever recorded and provides you with the opportunity to learn more about the lives of these amazing animals. Brown Bears of Brooks River, a free ebook, provides life history and identification information on the most commonly seen Brooks River bears as well as stories about bear research, biology, and behavior. Visit go.nps.gov/katmai_ebooks to download the latest edition of Brown Bears of Brooks River. The Novarupta 13
Katmai and the National Park Idea NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC SOCIETY The Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes filled its discoverers with wonder, awe, curiosity, and a sense of stewardship. Robert Griggs: Katmai’s First Champion On June 6, 1912, Novarupta Volcano the National Geographic Society into the “The sight that flashed into view...was one exploded in a remote valley on the heart of the area. He discovered far more of the most amazing visions ever beheld by northern Alaska Peninsula. For 60 hours, than he imagined. mortal eye. The whole valley as far as the ash and pumice darkened skies across eye could reach was full of hundreds, no the region, pyroclastic flows and surges In July 1916, Griggs and his team suffered thousands—literally tens of thousands—of buried Ukak River valley, and the summit through exhaustive slogs in quicksand, smokes curling up from its fissured floor. of Mount Katmai collapsed forming a 2000 punishing wind storms, and two Continues on page 15 feet (600 m) deep caldera. treacherous climbs to reach the rim of Mount Katmai’s newly formed caldera. On The ash and pumice released during the July 31, the day after their second Mount eruption represents over 3 mi3 (13.5 km3) Katmai ascent, Griggs continued toward of magma beneath the earth, 30 times more Katmai Pass. Temporarily leaving behind magma than the 1980 Mount Saint Helens one companion who “was incapacitated by eruption. The Novarupta-Katmai eruption too many flapjacks,” he and L.G. Folsom was the largest of the 1900s and one of the traversed a deeply gullied notch between five largest in recorded history. Mount Trident and Mount Mageik. The eruption created a harsh land Just as Griggs was ready to turn back, he E.C. KOLB / NAU CLINE LIBRARY of abandoned villages, ghost forests, caught sight of a small volcanic steam vent quicksand, and ash covered mountains. in Katmai Pass. After warming his hands Even so, a few people were eager to in this small fumarole, he spotted another, explore the transformed terrain. Curious much larger one nearby. Curiosity hastened about vegetative recovery in the wake of him forward. In the January 1917 issue of Robert Griggs (1881-1961) led several National such a large scale eruption, Robert Griggs National Geographic Magazine, Griggs Geographic Society expeditions that brought organized and led expeditions funded by described what he saw next. world-wide attention to the Katmai region. 14 The Novarupta
Continued from page 14 It was as though all the steam engines in the world, assembled together, had popped their safety valves at once and were letting off steam in concert.” Griggs discovered the Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes, an amazing 46 mi2 (120 km2) steaming landscape. Later that night, he found sleep impossible—his mind restless with thoughts. Griggs later described himself as “overawed” but he “had seen enough to know that we had accidentally discovered one of the great wonders of the world.” What to do with such a place? Citing Yellowstone as an example Griggs answered, “I recognized at once that the Katmai district must be made a great national park accessible to all the people.” Through the National Geographic Society, Griggs lobbied for permanent protection of the Katmai region. Two years after the discovery of the Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes, Katmai National Monument was established by presidential proclamation. The National Park Service entered its second century in 2017, but the national park idea was born long before the creation of the National Park Service, NPS/M. FITZ in the minds and actions of citizens. It lived in the mind of Robert Griggs during Volcanic gas vents, or fumaroles, in the Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes formed where water became his explorations of Katmai. He “found” superheated by heat trapped within the 1912 ash flow. Today, fossil fumaroles are recognized by their Katmai and became Katmai’s first modern colorful halos. Most of these fumaroles cooled by the late 1920s. day champion. Robert Griggs’s discovery of and subsequent efforts to protect the Gilbert Grosvenor Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes exemplifies Robert Griggs received enthusiastic support the national park idea. This idea continues from Gilbert H. Grosvenor, then President of the to live in the hearts and minds of National Geographic Society, to explore Katmai. people all over the world. How will you Did Grosvenor plant the seeds of the national #FindYourPark? park idea in Griggs’s mind? Shortly before Griggs discovered the grandeur of Katmai, Grosvenor discovered the importance of national parks. In 1915, Stephen Mather Gilbert H. Grosvenor invited Grosvenor to the Sierra Nevada in a bid to garner support for the fledgling national park idea. Grosvenor was overwhelmed by the trip and quickly became a staunch supporter of national parks. He helped Mather draft the Organic Act of 1916 which established the National Park Service. NPS/B. PLOG Griggs was likely familiar with Grosvenor’s support of national parks since the entire April 1916 edition of National Geographic Magazine was devoted to national parks. Grosvenor also fully Several hundred feet of ash and pumice cover the supported Griggs’s efforts to protect Katmai. Today, Grosvenor Camp and Lake Grosvenor bear Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes near Novarupta. his name—a tribute to an influential national park supporter. The Novarupta 15
Explore Katmai’s Human History NPS/M. HORNER Katmai Village was once a major center of trade on the Alaska Peninsula. Volcanic unrest forced residents to flee the area and abandon their homes in June, 1912. This is the village as it looked in 1913. Learn about Katmai’s People, Past and Present The Alaska Peninsula may seem like The human story of Katmai is also Learn about their experiences in Witness: untouched wilderness, but when you visit intertwined with the geologic landscape. First Hand Accounts of the Largest Volcanic Alagnak, Aniakchak, or Katmai, you are In the past, volcanic eruptions disrupted Eruption in the 20th Century. following in the footsteps of thousands and displaced people—even whole of people. Certain places, like the Brooks communities on the Alaska Peninsula. For more on Katmai’s human history and River area and Katmai’s Pacific coastline, The 1912 Novarupta-Katmai eruption to download these books go to have been a bustling hub of human activity irreparably altered the lives of the people go.nps.gov/katmaihistory. for millennia. who called this area home. People have used the rich resources available in the Brooks River for nearly 5,000 years. In Story of a House, archeologist Don Dumond illuminates this rich history by recounting the discovery, excavation, and reconstruction of a semi- subterranean homesite along Brooks River. Katmai’s Heartbeat Every spring, the Bristol Bay region bustles with activity. After a long winter in dry dock, fishing boats are moved into the water and working women and men flock to the area. Why? Because the salmon will soon arrive. Katmai National Park and Preserve and Alagnak Wild River protect critical spawning and rearing habitat for sockeye and other salmon. These fish are the foundation of a complex ecological system, and they are intricately woven into the cultural and economic fabric of the area. Salmon are the heartbeat of the ecology, economy, culture, and history of the Katmai region. NPS 16 The Novarupta
Cycle of the Salmon 1 USFWS 8 2 S F W US 3 7 4 6 NPS / R. WOOD USFWS 5 Salmon overcome tremendous obstacles in order to reproduce. During winter, when the Alaska Peninsula ocean. Along this journey, they undergo and other factors may all determine the is locked under ice and snow, salmon eggs many physiological changes to prepare precise timing and pattern of the migration. incubate quietly in well oxygenated steams for a saltwater existence. Salmon prepare and lakes 1 . Months before, adult salmon to enter a totally new environment, with Upon returning to freshwater, salmon struggled against nearly insurmountable conditions they cannot know until they get stop eating. 95-99% of spawning salmon obstacles in order to spawn. Every stage there. Substantial changes to the kidneys return to the same lakes, rivers, and streams in a salmon’s life illustrates their ability to and gills are required for these fish to where they were born. They smell their survive and their drive to reproduce. survive the harsh transition from freshwater way upstream following the odors of the to the salty ocean. water they imprinted upon as fry and smolt. After incubating, salmon eggs hatch in Pigments from salmon flesh are transferred mid-winter. The larva, called alevins 2 , Salmon spend one to four years in the to the skin and eggs. Their bones soften and remain in the nest feeding on a yolk sac still ocean 5 , depending on the species. they develop distinctive humped backs and attached to their bodies. They may even Salmon in the ocean are bright and silvery elongated jaws 7 . migrate deeper into the stream gravel for in color to hide them from predators like protection during this vulnerable period. orcas, seals, and sharks. In offshore waters, Female salmon excavate several gravel salmon are among the most abundant fish nests, collectively called a redd. To do Salmon fry 3 emerge from the gravel and use keen eyesight to find and catch this, she fans the gravel violently with her between April and June. Most salmon live prey. tail to winnow away sand and silt which in freshwater for one to two years while would smother her eggs. Males and females feeding on zooplankton. Vertical stripes, Most salmon are between one and six years release milt and eggs simultaneously. Up called parr marks, help camouflage them old when they begin migrating back to to 1,000 eggs are laid in each nest. Salmon from predators. the watersheds where they were born 6 . spawn across the Alaska Peninsula from Sockeye salmon may travel 37 miles (60 km) midsummer to fall. They die shortly there Salmon smolt 4 imprint on their natal or more each day during this long journey. after, and nutrients from their decaying streams and lakes while migrating to the Water temperature, ocean currents, day bodies drive the cycle once again 8 . length, the earth’s magnetic field, genetics, The Novarupta 17
Gone Fishing? Fishing in the Katmai Region A visit to Alagnak and Katmai offers surprisingly quiet and difficult to see in dense A short video, Letting Go: The Art of Catch and tremendous fishing opportunities for grass or tall brush, so always have someone Release, is available to watch online at rainbow trout, arctic char, grayling, and spot bears for you. At minimum, keep 50 yards https://youtu.be/snKzEskc_OY and in the salmon. Katmai’s runs of salmon, in between yourself and all bears. Stop fishing Brooks Camp Visitor Center. This video, written and move away well before a bear approaches and produced by experienced local fishing particular, also support some of the greatest within 50 yards, or you may find yourself in a guides, succinctly highlights proper catch and gatherings of brown bears on earth. No situation with a fish on the line and a bear in release techniques. matter when or where you choose to fish, pursuit. extra care and responsibility are necessary Regulations to protect people, wildlife, and the Catch and Release Ethics Fishing in Katmai, Aniakchak, and the Alagnak experience. Many areas in the Katmai region experience is subject to Alaska Department of Fish and heavy fishing pressure each year. Fish are often Game (ADF&G) regulations and restrictions. Fishing Around Bears caught multiple times per season. Therefore, Additional federal regulations apply to Brooks When salmon spawning activity peaks in a anglers must release fish as quickly and gently River. Alaska state fishing licenses are required. stream, bears and anglers compete for the as possible to ensure their continued survival. For more fishing information, ask a park ranger same resources. Expect to spend more time out or visit the ADF&G website at www.adfg.state. of the water than in, and be prepared to give Avoid playing a fish to exhaustion. As a fish is ak.us/. up your fishing hole to a bear at some time landed, keep it in the water when removing during your trip. the hook. Fish can quickly suffocate when removed from water, especially after battling Splashing fish sound like food to bears. Bears the forces of rod and reel. Use barbless hooks will often move in your direction to investigate as much as possible. They are easier to remove a fish on a line. Always be prepared to cut or and less injurious to fish. break your fishing line, so that you can free the fish and move out of the water until the bear The slime on fish helps to protect it from passes. Never let a bear acquire a fish from disease and parasites. Handling a fish roughly, you. with dry hands, or dragging it onto the shore removes this slime and reduces its chances for It is easy to become so engaged in fishing survival. that you forget to be alert for bears. They are NPS/ROY WOOD 18 The Novarupta
Photographing a Wild Heritage • Learn the rules and laws of the them in engaging in inappropriate location. If minimum distances exist for or harmful behavior. Many people approaching wildlife, follow them. unknowingly endanger themselves and • In the absence of management authority, animals. use good judgment. Treat the wildlife, • Report inappropriate behavior to proper plants and places as if you were their authorities. Don’t argue with those who You are encouraged to enjoy Katmai’s wildlife, guest. don’t care; report them. but please do it with respect and care. National • Prepare yourself and your equipment • Be a good role model, both as a parks are symbols of our wild heritage. The for unexpected events. Avoid exposing photographer and a citizen. Educate forethought of past generations has given yourself and others to preventable others by your actions; enhance their us the special places we enjoy today. Help mishaps. understanding. protect and preserve the natural wonders of Katmai, Aniakchak, and the Alagnak for the Individual: Expertise and Responsibility This copyrighted information has been future by maintaining standards of ethical • Treat others courteously. Ask before reprinted with permission from the North photography—it’s up to each of us. joining others already shooting in an American Nature Photography Association. For area. more information, please visit www.nanpa.org. The North American Nature Photography • Tactfully inform others if you observe Association (NANPA) encourages adherence to the following Principles of Ethical Field Practices: Environment: Knowledge of Subject and Place • Learn patterns of animal behaviors so as not to interfere with animal life cycles. • Do not distress wildlife or their habitat. Respect the routine needs of animals. • Use appropriate lenses to photograph wild animals. If an animal shows stress, move back and use a longer lens. • Acquaint yourself with the fragility of the ecosystem. Stay on trails that are intended to lessen impact. Social: Knowledge of Rules and Laws NPS/M. FITZ • When appropriate, inform managers or other authorities of your presence If people behave consistently, then animals may learn to behave consistently around people. Your potential and purpose. Help minimize cumulative impact on animals can be minimized by photographing from predictable places like the wildlife viewing impacts and maintain safety. platforms at Brooks Camp. Katmai’s Abundent Wildlife Katmai was designated a National Monument regions, dense spruce forests, rolling tundra, a in 1918 to preserve features associated with variety of water features and nearly 500 miles one of the most powerful volcanic eruptions of coastline. While bears tend to dominate ever recorded. However, later expansions and the animal conversation, the varied landscape the change in status to Katmai did not focus on provides habitat for a whole host of wildlife. geologic activity but rather on the importance of wildlife. Today, one of the primary purposes From coast to tundra, Katmai is one of the NPS/M.BRADBURN of Katmai National Park and Preserve is to best areas in North America to watch birds, protect habitats for and populations of fish, especially during the spring migratory and brown bears, and other wildlife. summer breeding seasons. Fish from salmon to While little is known about Katmai’s wolf sculpin are a crucial part of Katmai’s ecosystem population, wolves have been seen throughout the Katmai encompasses 4.1 million acres of and over 40 mammals call the park home. park; along the coast hunting sea otter and harbors seals, and in Brooks Camp fishing alongside bears. pristine land that includes mountainous What will you see on a visit to Katmai? The Novarupta 19
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