THE KINKAID SCHOOL January 9 - 24, 2019 - FROSCH Travel
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THE KINKAID SCHOOL January 9 – 24, 2019 BEIJING, PINGYAO, XI’AN, CHENGDU, HANGZHOU & SHANGHAI Day 1 ~ Wednesday, January 9, 2019 HOUSTON/BEIJING Depart Houston flying overnight to Beijing, crossing the International Date Line. Day 2 ~ Thursday, January 10, 2019 BEIJING Arrive Beijing. Meet, assist and transfer to the Grand Mercure Beijing Dongcheng, situated in the heart of the city. Breakfast and time to freshen up before heading out for an introductory orientation tour of Beijing. Beijing has a population of approximately 20 million, ranking it third in population behind Chongqing (33 million) and Shanghai (15 million). As the capital of China, Beijing is the most important city in the country and a great deal of government investment has been poured into developing the city’s infrastructure and preserving what remains of its imperial past. This melding of the new and the old represents the continuum of the ancient Daoist concept of “Yin” and “Yang”– opposing forces in balance to preserve harmony. Beijing is an apt example of this belief. Chang An Boulevard (the longest street in China) is full of glittering high-rise office and apartment towers. Yet just minutes away are neighborhoods that reflect another time and place when emperors ruled from deep within the Forbidden City. Beijing was once described as less a real city than “a series of villages” and in spite of the rapid transformation of the city’s façade, there remains the scatter shot charm of the Chinese village. Neighborhoods (those that remain) retain strong ties to the traditions of Chinese life by preserving the feel of village life where houses stand side by side, people meet at the local market, and the Buddhist temple is open to all. The first stop is Tiananmen Square, the central plaza that has become synonymous with Beijing. The Square is the largest public plaza on earth holding an estimated one million people at one time. Surrounding the square in each of the cardinal directions is a noted city landmark. At the north end of the Square is Chairman Mao’s Memorial Hall, the mausoleum built to hold the body of the late paramount leader, Mao Zedong (1893 – 1976), who was the first communist leader of China and the man credited with “making China stand up”. Despite many terrible mistakes which led to immeasurable suffering for his people, Chairman Mao’s contribution to China’s modern identity is still highly regarded by the Chinese. There is a popular saying that Chairman Mao is “70/30” – 70% good and 30% bad – in other words his contributions to the building of a modern China outweigh the negative aspects of his administration. That considered, the population still recognizes that it was Mao who led the country to its independent status and ended years of corruption and desperate poverty that afflicted the country prior to the communist victory of 1949. At the northern end of the Square stands Tiananmen (literally, “the Gate of Heavenly Peace”) the Ming dynasty (1368 – 1644) Gate that marked the entrance into the imperial and Forbidden cities. Today its imperial grandeur has a modern sensibility – a large portrait of Chairman Mao Zedong hangs for all to see and on each side of the portrait are slogans proclaiming long life to the People’s Republic of China and solidarity to the working people of the world. On the east and west sides of the Square stand two remarkable buildings built in the year 1959 to commemorate the 10th anniversary of the founding of the People’s Republic of China. On the western side is the “Great Hall of the People”, where China’s National People’s Congress meets each March and where visiting heads of state are often received and feted at banquets, while on the eastern side is the Museum of Chinese History. In terms of Chinese history the Square is not old; it was expanded and developed under the Communists after 1949. Since its construction it has become a focal point of activity. On October 1, 1949 Chairman Mao proclaimed the founding of the “People’s Republic of China” before tens of thousands of cheering Chinese. During the months of July and August 1966 hundreds of thousands of young students paraded through the Square pledging their allegiance to Chairman and 1
becoming his “little Red Soldiers” in the war against the old order. This signaled the onslaught of the Cultural Revolution (1966 – 1976), one of the most chaotic and destructive periods of modern China. From the Square, go through the Gate of Heavenly Peace to The Forbidden City. Take a walk through history exploring the palace that was once home to the ruling families of the Ming and Qing dynasties. The Ming (1368 – 1644) and Qing (1644 – 1911) were the two final royal periods in Chinese dynastic history. Much has been written about the Forbidden City; today, learn about its illustrious and infamous history. The palace was first built between the years 1406 – 1420 during a crucial period of Chinese history. The Ming dynasty had overthrown the ruling Mongols (the descendants of Genghis Khan) and set up their capital in Nanjing (which lies along the banks of the Yangzi River far to the south of Beijing) but civil instability and the continued threat from the Mongols caused the third ruler of the Ming, Yong Le (ruled 1402 – 1424) to move the capital back to Beijing. He wanted to proclaim the power of the new dynasty and impress upon people the end of the Mongol period. He initiated the construction of a new palace, one that would surpass anything that had existed in the past. His palace, the Forbidden City, became the defining symbol of Ming (and later Qing) China. Although it is steeped in legend and lore, the Forbidden City remains an overwhelming site. It embodies the spirit and tenets of traditional Chinese thought becoming a potent symbol for many Chinese concepts. The palace covers 72 hectares (approximately 200 acres) and is divided into an outer and inner court. The Outer Court is comprised of the main entrance (the Wumen or Meridian Gate), the Gate of Supreme Harmony, the Hall of Supreme Harmony and the Halls of Middle and Preserving Harmony. Here the emperor presided over the daily workings of royal administration – receiving dignitaries, reviewing troops, and attending to the business of governing. The Inner Court, hidden behind towering purple walls, housed the residential quarters for the royal family, which would include not only the emperor and his chief consort (the empress) but also the residences of the concubines, children and royal attendants. Symbolism plays a pivotal role in the design of the Forbidden City and it is worth remembering the following symbolic numbers and items that figure prominently in the palace layout. Nine brass knobs on the main palace doors is a symbol of the emperor – the number nine being the number before ten, symbol of perfection. There would be no more perfect being than the emperor. Nine in Chinese has the same pronunciation as “Longevity” and so represents a wish for the emperor’s longevity and good health. Five as in five windows and doors is also a symbol of imperial fortune and good luck and was also believed to be a balance for 9. Legend holds that the palace has 9,999 rooms ensuring the emperor a long life and security. A room in Chinese palace design constitutes four pillars or columns that may support the belief in the number of rooms. Notice the eaves on all the roofs – they are decorated by small guardian figures that are believed to be water spirits providing protection against fire, the most destructive force on the Palace. The roof tiles are a rich yellow, the color being the symbol of the earth – the emperor the “Son of Heaven on Earth”. The general population could not use the imperial yellow shade and violation of this edict could result in serious punishment. The red columns supporting the roofs of each building represent good luck and fortune, while the other colors: the green and blue–the royal colors of the Ming–represent heaven (Tian – blue) and wealth and prosperity (green). The symbolism of the palace design was supported by a life of strict adherence to ritual – the emperors became prisoners of their own world strictly adhering to their beliefs. Tour the palace from the south to the north entering into the outer court and exiting from the inner court. The last emperor to live in the Forbidden City was the emperor Hsuan Tong (1908 – 1911) better known as Henry Pu Yi (immortalized in the 1988 film The Last Emperor). After the fall of the Qing dynasty in 1911 he was allowed to reside in the Inner Court until 1924 when he was ejected from the Palace by warlord troops, which had taken over control of Beijing. Following lunch, set off to explore one of the older Hutong neighborhoods of Beijing. The “Hutong” is residential district unique to Beijing. As the city continues to develop and modern office and apartment towers are built the Hutong districts are being lost forever. Hutong is a Chinese term for an ancient Mongolian or Manchurian (remember the last rulers of China during the Qing dynasty were not Han Chinese, they were Manchurians who came from the northeastern region of China) term that means, “water well”. Residential districts of Beijing probably grew up around a source of water (e.g., a well) and grew into a network of alleys. Today the term refers to these alleyways which crisscross sections of the city in a labyrinth-like layout.
One of the most attractive and historic of these districts is the Hou Hai area that lies to the north of the Forbidden City and Beihai Park. While much of the city has changed, the Hou Hai area retains an ambiance that is “Old Beijing” and because of this many leading politicians and writers continue to reside here. The visit into the Hutong area will be via Pedicab, the bicycle taxi that once ruled the roads of Old Beijing. Leaving the crowded streets of modern Beijing, cycle back in time to a century past to explore and visit some of the local houses. The house style of the Hutong district is often called the “The Courtyard” or “Quadrangle House”. These are compounds centered on a courtyard (with housing units bordering each side of the central common area) that provided a central meeting point for extended families (i.e., many generations within the same compound). Visit some selected houses and learn a bit about the traditions of Beijing life. Following lunch, return to the hotel for a special introductory class in Chinese calligraphy before dinner. This is more of an introduction to one of the most beautiful and important of Chinese cultural traditions. Calligraphy is the art of using the “Mao Bi” or brush pen to produce Chinese characters. Calligraphy is more than just the ability to produce Chinese characters – the Chinese believe that calligraphy reveals something of the person wielding the brush pen. It is also worth noting that in Chinese painting tradition that a good painter must be a good calligrapher. The class will be “hands on” with a noted calligrapher. There is, in Chinese culture, a term used, “jun zi” to describe a gentleman (a scholar or learned individual) with the belief that a jun zi must be able to, “paint, read and appreciate poetry, play a musical instrument, appreciate fine wine and have good calligraphy. Since one of the marks of a man is his calligraphy, take a look at the history of this most unique and beautiful of Chinese art forms through the assistance of a calligraphy master. Calligraphy is more than just written script. It is said that a calligraphic poem or comments are essential to a painting, “every poem has a painting and every painting a poem” which means that calligraphy or the power of calligraphy is such that it can conjure up a vision like a painting and that a painting is not complete without the presence of a calligraphic script. Dinner this evening will consist of Beijing Peking Duck, a traditional delicacy. The art of Beijing Duck preparation is among the most highly prized in the country and considered one of the treasures of Chinese cuisine. GRAND MERCURE BEIJING DONGCHENG (B, L, D) Day 3 ~ Friday, January 11, 2019 BEIJING This morning, following breakfast, visit the Temple of Heaven, one of the great monuments built during the reign of the Ming emperors. While it has been rebuilt several times since its original construction in the 15 th century, it remains in its classic Ming form. The Temple of Heaven – called Tian (Heaven) Tan (Platform or dais for sacrificial rites) – is laid out in three sections set within a parkland of pine and cypress trees. The complex is laid out from the south to the north with each section having a specific function. It is important to remember that the Temple of Heaven was one of four ritual temples used by the emperor during the Ming and Qing dynasties. The others – the Temple of the Earth, the Temple of the Sun and the Temple of the Moon – were laid out in each of the cardinal directions around the Forbidden City. These are not religious sites in the western concept of religion but rather ritual sites where the emperor fulfilled the duties of his office as the representative of a greater force on earth. Entering from the south, first visit the “Altar of Heaven”, a beautiful three-tiered dais of marble upon which the emperor would make his petitions to heaven. The emperor was believed to be an intermediary between heaven and earth – a divine being who could transmit the needs of humanity to the greater force of heaven. Continue north to the “Vault of Heaven”, a lovely complex of buildings set with a completely circular wall. The Vault of Heaven was used to store the sacred texts from the emperor’s invocations to heaven. Finally, after a long walk along a magnificent corridor, enter the last and most stunning section of the complex – the Hall of Prayer for Good Harvest. This is a single structure of immense size sitting on a raised dais. Its roof is of deep cobalt – blue being the symbol of heaven. Within its circular structure are four gild-gold columns that represent the four seasons, surrounded by 12 red lacquer columns, which represent the 12 months of the year. These columns are, in turn, surrounded by another 12 lacquer red columns, which symbolize the 12 divisions of the day (the Chinese believed the day was made up of 12 two-hour time units). The Temple of Heaven is truly one of the most beautiful architectural structures and a wonderful example of the sophistication of Chinese architecture in ancient times. 3
Then, visit the Hong Qiao Market or “Silk Alley”, one of Beijing’s most established bargain markets. Originally a vast outdoor labyrinth of market stalls, Silk Alley has been moved indoors into a much more orderly shopping experience. The fun still remains the same – this is a lesson in the traditions of bargaining and vendors show more respect as you barter the costs down. Following lunch at Bao Yu Gong Zhu, set off for a visit to the beautiful Summer Palace. The concept of a “summer palace” has existed in the Beijing area for more than 900 years – as early as the Jin dynasty (1115 – 1234) the imperial family made an annual retreat, during the long, hot summers, to a more favorable location where they could enjoy cooling lake breezes and verdant surroundings. The Yi He Yuan (as it was named after the founding of the People’s Republic of China in 1949) marks the last site of a summer palace in the Beijing area. In 1860 a joint force of British and French troops attacked and razed the existing summer palace looting it of countless treasures. At that time the Empress Dowager, Ci Xi (1835 – 1908) held power over China despite not ruling outright as the recognized sovereign (she ruled through her son and nephews as the regent). The Empress Dowager loved the Summer Palace more than any place and is believed to have ordered funds set aside for the development of the Chinese navy to be used to rebuild her beloved summer retreat in the year 1888. The Summer Palace is not a palace in the traditional sense of the term; rather, it is a garden, an “imperial garden”, the largest of its type in China. In China the concept of the garden is one that brings together the worlds of man and nature. A Chinese garden is steeped in centuries of philosophical and artistic traditions. Daoism, the philosophy of life and nature that originated in China more than 2,500 years ago, infuses Chinese garden design concepts. The term “dao” means, “the way” and refers to man’s need to find the right path of life in terms of Nature. Nature is and will always be more powerful than man and we should not try to overwhelm or dominate nature but should find ways to become one in our journey. This philosophy can be seen in traditional Chinese landscape paintings where scenes of the natural world – mountains, forests, and lakes – overwhelm anything manmade, a suggestion that man (and by extension his works) are insignificant when take in context with nature. The Summer Palace is laid out over 294 hectares (726 acres), of which 75% of the area is water dominated by Kunming Lake. The grounds are laid out like a landscape painting with hills, trees, rockeries, and the lake. This allowed for the imperial residents and their special guests to enjoy an unfolding kaleidoscope of images – interspersed with the natural highlights are pavilions, temples, bridges, and the magnificent “Chang Lang” or “Long Corridor”, an 800 meter long covered walkway that follows the shore of the lake. The walkway is beautifully enhanced with a series of exquisite painted panels. The paintings reflect a variety of themes: scenes from Chinese folk tales, landscapes, and delicate miniatures of birds and flowers. Walking along and taking in the panorama of the natural view (lake, forest, and flowers) and the delightful painted images on the breezeway panels it is not difficult to imagine what this must have been like in former, imperial times. The palace can be divided into four main sections: the Court area; the Front-Hill area; the Front-lake area; and the rear- hill or back-lake area. The overall effect of the palace layout is one of ethereal splendor – where hills, forests, lotus ponds, the lake provide a magical backdrop to the palace buildings. Next, visit Factory 798, which was once a series of abandoned military factories, is now Beijing’s largest and most active art communities. It is comprised of galleries, artists’ studios and art centers. Become immersed in a multifaceted creative experience while encountering thought-provoking exhibitions and works created by some of Chinas most relevant contemporary artists. Following dinner at Da Wan Ju, attend a Kung Fu show, witnessing first hand this amazing sport steeped in Chinese tradition. GRAND MERCURE BEIJING DONGCHENG (B, L, D)
Day 4 ~ Saturday, January 12, 2019 BEIJING This morning, following breakfast, meet Jamie Greenbaum for briefing on the Great Wall. A longtime resident of Beijing, Australian-born Jamie is a specialist in Ming (1368 – 1644) and Qing (1644 – 1911) dynasty history and culture. Enjoy an introduction to the Great Wall and its significance in Chinese culture. Jamie will begin the day with a presentation that introduces the concept of a “Great Wall”, something of its history enriched by anecdotal tales that highlight some important battles and incidents from Chinese history that involved the Great Wall. Questions are welcomed and it is hoped that this introduction will help prepare for the visit to the Wall. Jamie makes his presentation with a number of interesting facts and presents it in a way that is easy to digest and remember. The drive to Mutianyu goes towards the northeast across the Yan Mountains – this is a region of striking beauty. Unlike the more lush landscapes of southern China, the northern regions of China are less green and often broken by rugged mountains and deep valleys. There are at least five areas along the Wall that are within proximity of Beijing. Mutianyu is among the most beautiful offering the visitor pristine scenery and panoramic views. The Wall rides a high crest of the Yan Mountains looking across a series of ridges and onto the plain on which Beijing is located. The Great Wall has a long and rather confusing history – fact and fancy have long been intertwined so it is difficult to ascertain just what the truth about this remarkable structure is. According to historic records it is believed that Wall building was a common form of defense, especially in northern China. During a period of history known as the “Warring States” (475 – 221 B.C.) China was broken up into many competing kingdoms. Walls were constructed in many of the northern kingdoms as a means of defense. Unifying China, the State of Qin conquered the remaining states in 220 BC. The emperor (the Qinshihuangdi) then began to link up these wall systems forming what we call the “Great Wall”. Subsequently, through Chinese history, the Wall has been expanded, contracted, surfaced and worked on – a reflection of the fears that each different dynastic period had for the threat of invasion by the nomadic steppe peoples (the Mongols, Khitan, Jurchen, etc. who lived beyond the Wall in present day Inner and Outer Mongolia and Manchuria). Mutianyu and many of the Beijing area access points were refurbished during the Ming dynasty (1368 – 1644) when the Beijing area was constantly threatened by rapid strikes. Upon arrival at the Wall, have ample time to walk along sections of the Wall and take in the stunning panorama, the mountains and the distant valleys. Jamie will accompany the group, so ask questions and consider Jamie’s comments about the reasons that the Wall was built and its significance in Chinese culture and history. Mutianyu offers several different ways to access the Wall – there is a cable car, a chair lift, and stairs – for those who wish to earn former Chairman Mao’s praise, “if you have not climbed up onto the Wall then you cannot be considered a hero,” then it is up the 1,156 steps! Next, enjoy lunch at Xiao Long Pu, a local restaurant serving some of the best Chinese cuisine in Beijing. After lunch, transfer to the Ming Tombs. The drive to the Ming Tombs reveals just how fast and far Beijing has expanded in the past decade. The Ming Tombs mark the vast sweep of land where 13 of 16 Ming emperors and their families are buried. Burial practices have a long and highly symbolic meaning in Chinese culture and the Ming Tombs are a good representation of these traditions. Feng Shui (Wind and Water) is a term that refers to the balance of natural forces in order to achieve harmony. This belief, derived from Daoism applies to burial practices – to bring balance and harmony to the living and dead, the proper maintenance of the final resting place must be observed. The forces of Yin and Yang must be considered – the mausoleum should be situated between water and higher ground (a hill or mountain). The quality of the soil, the plants that grow in the area all contribute to the final appeasement of the elements. While this may seem obscure and unusual to visitors from the West, Feng Shui continues to be believed by the Chinese. Begin with a walk on the Sacred Way (the Shen Lu in Chinese), an avenue over which all imperial personages, especially the emperors, were carried en route to their burial site. This avenue is lined with a series of striking marble sculptures that are lined up to pay their respect to the departed emperor – a representation of his authority over the world of man and animal. There are figures of elephants, horses, lions, soldiers, court officials and even mythological creatures. The 5
beginning of the avenue is marked by a large tower in which is housed a massive stele set on the back of a marble turtle (itself an auspicious symbol of longevity). The stele is carved with details about the Ming Tombs. Visit the Changling Mausoleum which houses a collection of funerary objects discovered by archeologists in the 1950s. These were removed from the tomb of the emperor, Wan Li (ruled 1573 – 1620) and placed on view in this mausoleum. The objects are dazzling and include gold and silver eating utensils, jade, and precious jewelry, gold and silver ingots, armor, royal headgear and the exquisite reproductions of dragon robes (garments badly deteriorated). Later this afternoon return to Beijing for dinner at the hotel. GRAND MERCURE BEIJING DONGCHENG (B, L, D) Day 5 ~ Sunday, January 13, 2019 BEIJING/PINGYAO Morning transfer to the Beijing train station for a high speed journey from Beijing to Pingyao. Upon arrival into Pingyao Ancient City Train Station transfer to the Yunjincheng Hotel. After freshening up, explore a local market and stroll along the bustling Qing Ming Street, heart of commercial life in Pingyao. With streets lined with local shops and food stalls, here one can purchase a variety of local goods, including embroidered shoes and paper cuts, for which Pingyao is particularly famous. Visit Madame Wen Hao’s Papercut Studio for a class in traditional paper cutting. Paper cutting is one of the most beloved of traditional Chinese arts, with a history of more than 2,000 years. The intricate patterns and pictures formed from paper cuts are a popular home decoration, often adorning doors and walls during the Chinese New Year period. This evening enjoy dinner at a local restaurant where you can sample some of the local delicacies for which Pingyao and Shanxi province are famous for. Beef, especially a tasty cured variety, is considered one of the culinary highlights of the city. Dried fruits, wheat noodles, steamed dumplings, and potatoes are other favored dishes. YUNJINCHENG HOTEL (B, L, D) Day 6 ~ Monday, January 14, 2019 PINGYAO This morning, following breakfast, enjoy a full day exploring the many ancient wonders of Pingyao. Today a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Pingyao is among the most stunning portals to China’s magnificent past. With over 4,000 structures dating to the Ming (1368 - 1644) and Qing (1644 - 1911) dynasties, Pingyao exudes a sense of antiquity found nowhere else in China today. Its cobble lanes, grey brick houses, elegant courtyards, and forbidding city wall suggest another world, a time of imperial splendor. Walk the ramparts of the Ming period City Wall, dating to the 15th century, which still encloses the original city. Designed in the shape of a tortoise, harbinger of good fortune and longevity, the wall is mounted with battlement towers and a beautiful moon tower that offered views of the full moon in ancient times. Built using rammed earth inside and faced with brick and stone outside, the ancient city walls measure 10 meters in height and 6.2 kilometers in total circumference. It has four main gates in each of the cardinal directions (north, south, east, and west) with two additional side gates, all featuring gate towers. A total of 72 watchtowers line the walls, located 50-100 meters away from each other. The parapets, each measuring 2 meters high, were built along the outside edges, with 3,000 mouths left open for defense shooting. Visit the well-preserved County Government Office, named Yamen in Chinese, the office and official residence of the city magistrate/civil representative during the Qing dynasty. This 300 room complex consists of an archway, ceremonial gate, various offices, and a prison with a collection of ancient handcuffs and chains used to secure prisoners, a court, meeting rooms, a residential area, and a garden. Interestingly, the county government continued to operate from this location until 1997, when it was moved to new facilities outside the city walls. Continue to the Daoist Temple, one of the many temples that dot the city landscape, considered one of the most beautiful architectural wonders of the city. Located on the eastern side of the city, the temple served as the “Temple of the City Deity” (Cheng Huang Miao). Here, the local deity is enshrined and worshipped. According to legend, the temple entrance was made especially low so that devotees would need to bow while entering.
Onto Risheng Chang which is also called, “China’s First Bank” – this 19th institution grew out of the prosperity that Pingyao enjoyed in the 18th and 19th centuries when local businessmen achieved great wealth through trade – Pingyao was an important depot for trade from northern China and because money was often in the form of silver and gold ingots there grew a need to store these and thus the first form of bank was established. Today the bank and its attendant buildings and grounds have been nicely preserved and visitors can better understand what the function of this compound was. Following lunch, continue to explore Pingyao and will visit the Piao Fang which is affiliated with the Rishengchang – it was an early “security firm” that provided the services of body guards and other protective arrangements for wealthy individuals and companies. Stop at the Armed Escort Museum, a fine exhibition of ancient Chinese weaponry. This evening, enjoy a local opera performance and dinner, before transferring back to the hotel. YUNJINCHENG HOTEL (B, L, D) Day 7 ~ Tuesday, January 15, 2019 PINGYAO/XI’AN Morning transfer to the Pingyao Ancient Train Station for a high speed journey from Pingyao to Xi’an. Upon arriving at the Xi’an Train Station, meet guide to set off for the Yangling Excavation. The Yangling Excavation dates to the year 1990 when a group of archeologists were called to the airport area to conduct a series of soil sample analysis on a part of the road being constructed to link the city to the then new airport – road workers had dug up some pottery fragments that appeared to come from a tomb or burial chamber and the government was anxious to have these analyzed. The result of those first tests in 1990 suggested that the site was part of the burial or funerary grounds of the 4th emperor of the Western Han dynasty (206 BC – 25 AD) Jing Di, who had died in the year 141 BC. Since those initial sample tests – over the past 16 years – the excavations at Yangling (headed by archeologist, Professor Wang Baoping) have resulted in some 100 satellite tomb digs yielding more than 100,000 artifacts including terra-cotta soldiers, animals (horses, cows, pigs, goats, sheep, dogs, etc.), gold and silver pieces, lacquer ware, bronze implements (weapons, pots, measurement instruments), and much more. The Yangling Excavation has become a major source of information for scholars throughout China and around the world who research and write about life in the Han period (Western Han – 206 BC – 25 AD and Eastern Han, 25 AD – 220 AD) one of the great “golden age” periods of Chinese history. The Han dynasty was contemporary to the great Roman Empire of the West and both enjoyed a strong commercial interaction along the trade routes we now call the “Silk Road”. During the Han and the later Tang (618 – 907) dynasties China was “Seres”, the land of silk, and the people of Rome became infatuated with the exquisite textiles of this mysterious empire. It has even been speculated that a regiment of Roman Legionnaires were captured by the Parthians (a Persian kingdom) and sent to China where they settled in an region of what is now Gansu province (western China). Sightseeing today will end with a visit to the current city wall. This wall dates to the early Ming period (built between 1374 – 1378) and is the third major city wall in the Xi’an area. There was a wall built during the Han dynasty (2nd century B.C.) and then another during the Tang dynasty (618 – 907). The present wall is magnificent – in fact it is one of the few extant walls left in China. The city wall once had four main gates (in each of the cardinal directions) but today, in light of the increased traffic flow there are now 16 gate entrances into and out of the old city. The wall is faced with brick and mounted by battlement towers that once stood watch over the city. Up until the early part of the 20 th century the city walls were an important mode of defense against attack. Dinner this evening is a Xi’an tradition – the many flavors and fillings of dumplings. These are steamed, boiled, baked and fried and reflect a culinary tradition that separated the north and south of China. Traditionally in the warmer, wetter regions south of the Yangzi River, rice was cultivated and eaten while in the drier and colder north wheat was the staple. Wheat flour made into dumplings, steamed breads and noodles were the chief fare of the northern Chinese. The dumplings of Xi’an are a tasty testament to the regional differences that make China such a unique society. GRAN MELIA (B, L, D) 7
Day 8 ~ Wednesday, January 16, 2019 XI’AN Following breakfast, meet with archeologist Professor Wang Xueli to learn about archeology in China and more locally in the Xi’an area. Xi’an is the capital of Shaanxi Province that is one of the great centers of early Chinese civilization. Like Egypt or Mesopotamia (Iran/Iraq) the Xi’an region was where civilization flourished and early in the scale of human history. In addition, it continued to flourish for several thousand years making it an important area of research, fieldwork and study for archeologists. Professor Wang, now retired, has enjoyed a long and fulfilling career in archeology. He was one of the first directors of the Terra-Cotta Warriors and Horses dig (from 1976 – 1989) and later led the Yangling Dig (1990 – 1996), visited on arrival into Xi’an. Professor Wang will supplement his talk with slides of dig sites in the province. The Terra-Cotta Warriors and Horses dig can rightfully be called the greatest of all archaeological sites in China, and, perhaps the most important archeological discovery of this century anywhere in the world. The dig lies 46 kilometers to the east of the city of Xi’an and is now made easily accessible by a new highway. The drive includes a view of the fertile loess fields of Shaanxi; an ever-replenished supply of soil which has been the foundation of civilization. For millions of years the annual flow and deposition of mineral rich dust or loess soil over a region of north central China (Shaanxi, Shanxi, and Henan provinces) has provided farmers with a renewable source of nutrients for grain crops for thousands of years. The Terra-Cotta site is made up of three distinct dig “pits”; the Bronze Chariot Museum; and a theater in the round, which shows a short film on the history of the First Emperor of the Qin dynasty (220 B.C.- 209 B.C.) and the construction of his mausoleum. The site was rediscovered by accident in 1974 when a local farmer, Yang Zhifa, and his production team were digging a well. They accidentally unearthed some pieces of terra-cotta figures (not a head as is commonly said), which were turned over to the local archaeological authorities. The archaeologists quickly understood the significance of this find. Records written by the Han historian, Sima Qian, in the first century B.C. clearly confirmed that the massive burial complex of the first emperor of the Qin dynasty lay in this region. A full brigade of archaeologists and technicians were sent to the site and over the ensuing years thousands of figures, warriors and horses, were unearthed, cataloged and restored. They were put back into their original situation and eventually provided researchers with a clue to the meaning of this extraordinary find. The site represents just a portion of a greater funerary site - which would include the tomb and satellite tombs of the emperor and his retinue. The current dig is made up entirely of military figures, which Professor Xueli says represents a classic example of 2nd century B.C. Chinese military might. Pit One: The largest of the pits containing over 6,000 warriors and horses (of which approximately 1,200 figures have been fully or partially restored) is believed to present the actual imperial bodyguard (of the Qin period) in full battle formation. They include the front vanguard, side flanks protecting the infantry and charioteers. Theories abound but it is thought this formation was meant to safeguard the emperor’s passage to the afterlife and additionally protect his kingdom during the Warring States period (481 B.C.- 220 B.C.) and it was the kingdom which succeeded in overthrowing and annexing the 6 rival eastern states. Therefore it is believed the east-facing situation of the army is a symbol of defense against the threat from the eastern states. Pit Two: Opened in October 1994, this pit represents what is believed to be a Qin period military encampment. Continued excavation has yielded a number of chariots, weaponry, and what appear to be tent-like structures. A large section of the pit conforms to a Qin period military playing field and the presence of archers further attests to the validity of the military encampment theory. Pit Three: The smallest of the pits unearthed, this is believed by archaeologists to represent the army’s strategic headquarters, its central field command. Sixty-eight military figures have been unearthed along with the remains of deer antlers and bones, suggesting a place of ceremonial sacrifice. In ancient China, as in many ancient cultures, sacrifices were made before going into battle. Pit number three is the best preserved of the pits and is the only one not to have been razed by fire. Historians speculate that at the end of the Qin period (209 - 207 B.C.) the armies of the peasant rebels under Liu Bang and Xi’ang Yu (which lead to the founding of the Han dynasty in 206 B.C. – 220 A.D.) reached the burial site and sacked what they could get their hands on. Pits One and Two both show evidence of fire damage and physical destruction of the terra-cotta figures. Fire does not appear to have reached Pit Three but another interesting mystery intrigues researchers. Most of the figures in the pit are of high-ranking generals, most with their heads missing. One possible theory is that the invading armies did not have time to set the pit on fire but instead, in an act of symbolic disgrace to the defeated enemy removed the heads of the generals.
The Bronze Chariot Museum Complex (opened in 1999) exhibits two exquisite funerary chariots unearthed near the tomb mound in 1980/1981. Smashed into over 3,000 pieces, both have been painstakingly put back together providing, yet again, another exceptional example of the tremendous skill and artistic sophistication of ancient Chinese artisans. The visit will also include a film that summarizes the history of the site. Following our visit to the Terra-Cotta Warriors & Hoses Excavation we will enjoy lunch at The Terra-Cotta Warriors & Horses Museum Restaurant in a private room. Stop at the Great Mosque of Xi’an, one of the most beautiful and unusual of structures in Xi’an. First constructed in the years 742 – 743 by Persian merchants who traveled to Xi’an (then called Changan) by the caravan routes on the Silk Road, the mosque has been moved from its original site. The Chinese Muslims in Xi’an are generally of the Hui Minority group. The Hui, who speak Chinese and read character script, trace their descent through two waves of migration into China. They first occurred during the Tang dynasty with the intermarriage of Chinese women to Persian merchants. The second and more important migration came in the 14th century with the arrival of thousands of central Asian soldiers who served in the armies of the Mongol Empire. These devout Muslims (from Samarkand and the Golden Horde) also intermarried with Chinese women further strengthening the position of Islam in China. The Hui adhere to the strict tenets of Islam abstaining from pork and alcohol. The area around the mosque is generally considered to the Muslim quarter and their white skullcaps distinguish the Hui faithful. During the evening hours the area comes to life as a bustling night market with colorful stalls selling flavorful Muslim snack foods including spicy shish kebab, flat breads, piquant lamb dumplings, and hand thrown noodles. China has an estimated population of 18 million Muslims, overwhelming non-Han, who lived in some of the most sensitive frontier regions of the country (especially in the far northwest). The establishment of the newly independent Turkic countries from the former soviets of Soviet Central Asian republics (including Turkmenistan, Uzbekistan, Kyrgyzstan and Kazakhstan) has led to an aspiration by Chinese Muslims to increase direct relations with these countries. They share cultural and religious ties that are steeped in the historic development of central Asia. During the visit to the mosque, meet the Imam or “Ahong” (a word derived from Persian) and tour the exquisite prayer hall which has all 30 books of the Qur’an carved in Chinese and Arabic on its walls. Spend the rest of the afternoon at one of Xi’an’s experimental high schools meeting and mixing with students and faculties. Affiliated with a research institute, the high school draws on the city’s top students and is respected for its progressive academic teaching methods and focus on English. Sit down and talk to the students to learn something about a young person’s life in one of China’s more typical heartland cities. Dinner this evening is at the hotel. GRAN MELIA (B, L, D) Day 9 ~ Thursday, January 17, 2019 XI’AN/CHENGDU Morning transfer to Xi’an North Train Station for a high speed journey from Xi’an to Chengdu. Chengdu is among the fastest growing cities in China and represents a great model for the future growth and development of the country. First, visit the Chairman Mao Statue, located in Tianfu Square. The monument stands 30 m (98.4 ft) tall and depicts Mao Zedong with an outstretched arm. Before 1967, the site was occupied by an ancient palace from the Shu Kingdom of ancient Sichuan. The palace was destroyed by Red Guards and the moat around it filled in to make an air raid shelter in 1967. Then, onto Wu Hou Park, lovely park/temple that honors two of China’s most important figures from ancient Chinese history, Liu Bei (the founder of the Han dynasty) and Zhu Geliang, the great prime minister and thinker from the Shu Kingdom (which was in Sichuan province). Zhu Geliang was the personification of noble character and intelligence. Memorial architectures erected in many places after his death include a famous one in Chengdu. Located in the south suburb of Chengdu, the temple covers 37,000 square meters (398,277 square feet). The date of its establishment is unclear, only that it was built next to the temple of Liu Bei, the emperor of Shu. It was combined with the Temple of Liu Bei at the beginning of the Ming Dynasty; consequently, the entrance plaque reads 'Zhaolie Temple of Han Dynasty' (Zhaolie is the posthumous title of Liu Bei). The current temple was rebuilt in 1672. Surrounded by old cypresses and classical red walls, it evokes nostalgia. 9
This evening, enjoy a traditional Sichuan style dinner before attending a performance of local Sichuan opera that includes “Face changing” performance. China has an abundance of 1,300 local operas, Sichuan opera is one of China’s oldest local operas and is popular in Sichuan province and some regions of Yunnan and Guizhou provinces. It is the most significant and most interesting opera form from Southwestern China. As a stage entertainment, it conveys the idea of time and space to the audience through performances. The opera is characterized by its unique solo singing, refined acting, rich percussion and irresistibly funny comedians; Sichuan opera also displays its unique skills: the changing faces, spitting fire, and rolling light. Numerous Sichuan opera troupes are active throughout the province, both in the countryside and in the cities and the troupes in Chengdu are rated artistically the top level. SOFITEL TAIHE CHENGDU (B, L, D) Day 10 ~ Friday, January 18, 2019 CHENGDU This morning, following breakfast visit the Giant Panda Research Centre – to be accompanied by a resident expert. Sichuan is home to more pandas than any other province or region of China (there are believed to be some 900 wild Giant Pandas in Sichuan) and the Research Centre is a leading facility for the study and protection of both the GIANT and LESSER PANDA species. In addition to having the expert provide commentary there will be time to have some up and close and personal contact with the centre’s wonderful residents – this is the single best place, on earth, to experience the wonder of the Giant Panda. This visit will also include a visit to the enclosure that houses the “Lesser” or “Red” Pandas and the nursery. Continue to a local martial arts school to enjoy both training sessions and an actual performance done by the students. Next, visit The Jinsha Museum which is seldom visited by foreign visitors. This remarkable museum exhibits artifacts excavated from a dig that was accidentally discovered in 2001 when a section of Chengdu was being developed for a real estate project. The artifacts represent the last phase of a great Bronze Age culture that flourished in and around Chengdu between the period from 1,2000 BCE – 650 BCE – the culture is named “Jinsha” after a river that flows in the area. The Jinsha Culture remains somewhat of a mystery but the treasures that they left to posterity are stunning and reflect an artistic sensibility that was refined for its antiquity and unlike anything else (stylistic) contemporary with it in other parts of China. There is a rich variety of metals used from bronze work to gold and silver as well as some exquisite use of ivory which suggests either the presence of elephants in Sichuan (there are still about 300 wild Asiatic elephants found in neighboring Yunnan province) or trade with areas of ivory like Southeast Asia or the kingdoms that once existed in Yunnan. Return to the hotel to freshen up before dinner at a local restaurant this evening. SOFITEL TAIHE CHENGDU (B, L, D) Day 11 ~ Saturday, January 19, 2019 CHENGDU Today, travel to Leshan for a full day excursion. Leshan is the site of the world’s largest stone carved Buddha image that dates to the Tang dynasty (618 – 907). The statue is 71 meters in height (233 feet) and depicts the Maitreya Buddha (the future incarnation) seated facing Mount Emei (78 kilometers to the west), one of the most sacred of all Buddhist mountains in China. The statue was carved into a cliff face at the confluence of three rivers: the Minjiang (a tributary of the Yangzi River), the Dadu River, and the Qingyi River. The statue was initiated by a Tang period Buddhist monk, Haitong, in the year 713 but threatened by limited funds the project was stopped and not completed until 803 when funds were found through the patronage of a wealthy donor and the disciples of Haitong continued his work to completion. The statue was built not only to honor Buddhist philosophy which had reached its apex of influence in China during the Tang period but also because it was hoped and believed that Maitreya could calm the turbulent waters of the three rivers thereby making shipping safer and reduce the threat of floods. The construction required such a huge volume of rock removal that the rocks were dropped into the river thereby altering its flow in such a way that it did reduce the turbulence. A sophisticated system of piping was also laid to held divert waters from the statue to reduce weathering and a large wooden scaffold shelter was constructed around and over the image to protect it from rain. The structure was destroyed in the 13th century during the Mongol invasions into China. Then, return to Chengdu and visit China’s Lane (also known as Kuan Zhai Street. Kuan Zhai Street is one of the three key preservation areas in Chengdu. It consists of Kuan Lane (Wide Lane), Zhai Lane (Narrow Lane) and Jing Lane of which there are three parallel arranged traditional streets and Siheyuan (courtyard houses). Meanwhile, it is the only area
which recorded rich architectural and social characteristic feature about the residential building from Qing Dynasty (1644-1911) till now. Enjoy a traditional Sichuan style hot pot dinner this evening. SOFITEL TAIHE CHENGDU (B, L, D) Day 12 ~ Sunday, January 20, 2019 CHENGDU/HANGZHOU This morning following breakfast, transfer to Chengdu Airport for flight to Hangzhou. One of China’s most attractive cities – while this capital of Zhejiang province is a thriving international business city with a population of almost 7 million (3.5 million in the city), Hangzhou remains first and foremost a beautiful city rich in history and culture. The Chinese have a popular saying to describe Hangzhou, “In heaven there is paradise, on earth there is Su Hang.” Su refers to Suzhou while Hang is Hangzhou. Upon arrival in the city enjoy lunch at a local restaurant before visiting the Hu Xue Yan House. The Hu Xue Yan House is the largest traditional Chinese compound in southern China (i.e., south of the Yangzi River) that was the residence of the banker and business leader, Hu Xueyan (1823 – 1885) who rose from working as an assistant in a local bank to becoming one of the wealthiest men in China. His home is a testament to his vision – a stunning collage of images drawn from the traditions of Chinese architectural design. The house incorporates the traditional garden style used in the scholars’ gardens of Suzhou as well as embellishments and accent pieces from the West. As a wealthy man of his times (the 19th century) western styles became a popular affectation in home construction and design. Enjoy dinner in the city before transferring back to the hotel. SOPHIA HOTEL (B, L, D) Day 13 ~ Monday, January 21, 2019 HANGZHOU/SHANGHAI Enjoy an optional morning walk or bike ride along the lakeshore. Regardless of the season or the weather, local residents get out and exercise (run, walk, dance, or cycle) around the lake. This is the best way to experience how a day in Hangzhou begins. Next, experience one of Hangzhou’s great products: tea, particularly Dragonwell green tea (Longjing Cha). Hangzhou is blessed with a warm and humid climate with surrounding hills ideal for the cultivation of tea bushes. The well-drained hill slopes near Hangzhou have been planted with tea bushes for over 1,000 years and many clans (families) continue this lengthy history of tea cultivation. Chief among these is the Mei family who reside in the Meijia Wu or Mei Clan village located in a lovely green valley planted in tea. Learning about the significance of tea – especially green tea – to the people of the region, as well as its healthful benefits. First, visit the terraces on which the tea bushes are grown. Tea bushes or trees are members of the Camellia family and it is believed the original tea trees originated in China’s Yunnan province in mountain forests near the borders of Burma and Laos. Tea spread across the warmer regions of China by the Tang dynasty (618 – 907) when it became the most popular beverage prized both for its flavors and also for its medicinal benefits. Green tea refers to the teas picked and naturally process as opposed to Black or White teas that are fermented and treated before being served. Green teas are considered to be the most refreshing, and are also high in antioxidants, considered helpful in the fight against cancer. The tea is picked in spring and autumn with spring teas being the most valued. The first pickings of spring are the most prized with fresh spring green tea of the Long Jing variety fetching remarkable prices. Connoisseurs will pay the equivalent of hundreds of dollars for a kilogram (2.2. pounds) of the finest grade spring tea. See how the leaves are picked, then warmed in a wok to extract oils, and, finally, how the tea should be served and savored. The balance of the day will be one of sites and sights. Begin with a visit to the Ling Yin Temple, a magnificent 4th century Buddhist temple that is an important center for Buddhist belief in Hangzhou. The temple has, in addition to its halls and gardens, a striking rockery featuring a series of Buddhist and Chinese folk lore image carvings that date to the Yuan dynasty (1279 – 1368), the period of Mongol rule over China. 11
Board a private boat for a sunset cruise on the waters of West Lake. Celebrated by the Chinese for centuries, the lake and its verdant shores embody the delicate beauty of Hangzhou, a city where man and nature co-exist in unique harmony. Visit the Hu Qing Yu Herbal Medicine Pharmacy, established by Hu Xueyan in 1867 and continues to be one of the most popular traditional medicine dispensaries in Hangzhou. The building retains its Qing dynasty (1644 – 1911) ambiance with a cavernous lobby where pharmacists busily work filling subscriptions and drawing dried herbs and concoctions from a magnificent series of wooden drawers that line the walls of the pharmacy. The building also has a good exhibition of the historic development of Traditional Chinese Herbal Medicine as well as workshops where the medicine is processed. Transfer to the Hangzhou Train Station to board the “bullet” train to Shanghai. On arrival at the Shanghai Hong Qiao Train Station, meet guide and transfer to hotel. FOUR SEASONS PUXI (B, L, D) Day 14 ~ Tuesday, January 22, 2019 SHANGHAI Meet with Patrick Cranley, a noted historian and longtime Shanghai resident for will give a presentation and tour of Shanghai. Patrick Cranley is a China hand of long standing - he has lived, studied, and worked in China since the late 1980s and has become a self-educated expert on the history and development of Shanghai between the years 1842 until the end of the Second World War. His focus is on the foreign presence and influence this had on the city and the outlook of her people. Patrick will begin the tour with a general overview of the earliest history of the city after the settlement of the First Opium War in 1842 and the establishment of the International Settlement and the French Concession. After Patrick’s opening talk, depart the hotel for an orientation tour devoted to introducing Shanghai through some of the city’s most historic districts and neighborhoods. This will include the former French Concession and the International Settlement, highlighted by a walk along the Bund. The French Concession marks the territory held by the French after they seceded from the Shanghai Municipal Council in 1863 – they also built east to west from the Huangpu River front westward to the rural reaches of the city. The French Concession is often thought to be Shanghai’s most attractive district as it melds an eclectic number of housing styles set on lovely tree lined streets interspersed with gardens. It remains a wonderful escape from the frenetic high-rise buildings in the city center and over, across the Huangpu River, in Pudong. The lovely sycamore-lined lanes with their brick houses and gated parks are unique to Shanghai. The most interesting fact about the French concession and its influence was that in spite of French laws, French design, schools, etc., the district’s French population never exceeded 3,000; the Chinese population of the district (as well as Russian) far outnumbered actual French residents. The International Settlement marked the first foreign enclave in Shanghai – it grew to become the sphere of influence for both British and American interests in Shanghai – the famous section of the riverfront in Puxi, “the Bund” represents the apex of commercial power in old Shanghai. Today this sweep of late 19th and early 20th century buildings reminds all of past power in Shanghai while, across the river, modern Pudong heralds China’s promising commercial success for the future. Patrick’s tour will go into many of the city’s most interesting and historic areas and will offer insight into the different influences that shaped this most cosmopolitan of Chinese cities. Following the tour with Patrick, transfer to the Old Town and enjoy lunch Lubolang. Enjoy a walk through “Lao Cheng”, the Old Town and original Chinese settlement of Shanghai. The Old Town was established during the Ming dynasty (1368 – 1644) and was originally walled, built in 1553 to defend the city against the frequent raids made by Japanese pirates. In 1911, the wall was pulled down to allow for expansion from within the crowded warren of alleys that had developed within the area. The Old Town evokes the flavor of Ming Shanghai – a warren of alleys running in all directions, crowded shops and stalls selling goods and stately buildings with sweeping, swallow-tail roofs, typical of southern China. The Old Town is centered around a beautiful garden that was constructed between the years 1559 – 1577 by a rich merchant who dedicated the garden to his parents. This act of filial piety was typical of Chinese social behavior.
Confucian philosophy stressed the importance of relationships with the family – notably children to parents – as the most important relationship (in a network of relationships) holding together society. Continue to the Bund, China’s most celebrated waterfront promenade. The term “Bund” is an Anglo-Indian term meaning “quay or embankment”. During the early years of Shanghai’s growth in the late 19th century, English engineers built up the Huangpu Rivers banks to receive cargo ships and freighters that became known as “bunding”. The term Bund became associated with the waterfront area. Today the city government has refurbished the riverfront walkway and enhanced the existing park areas. On one bank stands the majestic colonial buildings (built between the years 1863 – 1943), symbols of Shanghai’s treaty port past while on the eastern bank of the Huang Pu River stands Pudong, Shanghai’s city of tomorrow. Less than 11 years ago Pudong was a quiet piece of land planted in rice and supporting some local farm villages. A decade later, primed by a massive amount of government investment, a dazzling Oz-like apparition has arisen. Gleaming office towers, swank new hotels and ribbons of express highways indicate a future focused on high tech, high finance and high stakes. Walking down the Bund leads to the venerable Peace Hotel, formerly the Cathay Hotel, Shanghai’s grand dame of hotel properties. Built in 1926 by the Sassoon Family, the Peace (renamed after the 1949 founding of the People’s Republic of China) has become a favorite of visitors who can relive the glory days of old Shanghai while walking through the hotel’s charming Art Deco atmosphere. Walk through Shanghai’s old Chinese quarter to the lovely Yu Yuan garden, a 16th century Ming Dynasty private garden and residence. Despite Shanghai’s crowded lanes and teeming masses, the garden remains an oasis of tranquility. Its deceptive size, laid out with many corners and breezeways to give one the illusion of size, houses in exquisite harmony the essential elements of a Chinese garden – pavilions, water, vegetation, rock formations, and bridges. Continue to the Shanghai History Museum, located on the Pudong side, featuring an interesting series of diorama presentations that highlight Shanghai’s historic development, especially during its Treaty Port period from 1842 – 1945. Late afternoon visit to the World Financial Center, currently the tallest building in the city. Located on the Pudong side of the city, the building is situated in the tip of Lujiazui on the east shore of Huangpu River. Looking from the other side of the river is the New Bund. The tower is 492 meters (1,615 feet) in height, making it the world’s third tallest building. The building was designed by Kohn, Pederson, and Fox, and was developed by the Mori Group of Tokyo, Japan. The building includes the Park Hyatt (from the 79th through 93rd floors; the world’s second highest hotel after the Ritz Carlton, Hong Kong). This evening, break up into smaller groups and set off for an evening in a local home. Each family has a child or children of a similar age with a good working command of English. Following dinner, transfer back to the hotel. FOUR SEASONS PUXI (B, L, D) Day 15 ~ Wednesday, January 23, 2019 SHANGHAI Morning departure for Zhujiajiao, a remarkable treasure trove of Qing period history located within close proximity to the urban might of modern Shanghai. Situated just 40 minutes to the west, northwest of Shanghai, Zhujiajiao is an enclave of tradition – cobble lanes, quiet canals, bustling markets and temple fairs. Perhaps it was serendipity or the protective guardianship of the Zhu Clan Ancestors that have saved this lovely town from the march of redevelopment. For whatever reason, local government authorities now recognize the urgency to preserve and conserve some reminder of the region’s rich historic and cultural roots. Zhujiajiao provides a wonderful, living example of the traditions, architecture and lifestyle of late 19th and early 20th centuries in China. Set forth on a walking tour of the town’s historic district, taking in the local street markets, apothecary shop and temple compound where the festivities and auspicious dates marked by the ancient lunar calendar still provide the guiding hand for most community activities. Within one hour of Shanghai, this portal to the past proves a striking contrast to all the modern achievements for which Shanghai is heralded. Zhujiajiao is a much-needed balance to the yin and yang of today’s Shanghai. Following lunch, continue to the world famous Shanghai Museum, first opened in 1952 and with three different buildings housing the collection since its inception. The most recent (and the current) building was opened in October 1996 and is located on 13
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