SEATTLE CONFERENCE ISSUE - WINTER 2019 - Les Dames d'Escoffier ...

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SEATTLE CONFERENCE ISSUE - WINTER 2019 - Les Dames d'Escoffier ...
WINTER             2019

S E AT T L E C O N F E R E N C E I S S U E
SEATTLE CONFERENCE ISSUE - WINTER 2019 - Les Dames d'Escoffier ...
On the cover:
    Seattle Chapter. Front row, L to R:
    Jerilyn Brusseau, Cathy Conner,
    Catherine Hazen, Karen Binder, Sheri
    Wetherell, Jamie Peha, Patricia Gelles,
    Beverly Gruber, Lisa Nakamura,
    Pam Montgomery. Back row, L to
    R: Katherine Kehrli, Marcia Sisley-
    Berger, JoAnne Naganawa, Alison
    Leber (behind), Jane Morimoto,
    Kate Ruffing, Nancy Leson, Bridget
    Charters, Cynthia Nims, Cheri Bloom,
    Pascha Scott, Linda Augustine,
    Martha Marino, Anne Nisbet, Alice
    Gautsch Foreman, Naomi Kakiuchi.
    Right: Photo of Marion Nestle and
    Hayley Matson-Mathes: Lisa Stewart.
    Other photos: Susan Slack.

                                                    FROM THE EDITOR
                                                    Seattle Conference 2018—
              WINTER                2 O 1 9         An Encore Performance
                                                    “The creation of a thousand forests is in one acorn.”
                                                                                                        Ralph Waldo Emerson

    IN THIS ISSUE                                     Bravo, Seattle Chapter, for a Conference well done! The power
                                                    of the encore is considerable. Flashback to 2003: Seattle’s first
                                                    Conference “Gathering on the Rim,” was, by all reports, a terrific
    F E ATU R ES                                    success. When Abigail Kirsch (NY) and Rosemary Kowalski (San
                                                    Antonio) tied for the Grande Dame Award, Renie Steves (Dallas)
     6       Pre-Conference Tours                   and Pat Mozersky (San Antonio) issued a bon mot, “doubling your
                                                    pleasure and doubling your fun!” Over 1,000 Dames belonged to

    11       Leadership Meeting
                                                    23 chapters, which included Adelaide, Australia, and an association
                                                    with Le Donne Del Vino—women in Italian wine. (There are cur-
                                                    rently 42 chapters and a membership of over 2,200 strong.)
    12       Salishly Delicious                       In an encore performance, Seattle brilliantly hosted its second inter-
                                                    national Conference, “Grey Skies, Bright Ideas,” October 11-14, 2018.
    13       M.F.K. Fisher Awards                   Over 300 registrants attended educational sessions, tours, and saw
                                                    product displays from LDEI partners who lead in food and beverage
    14       Concurrent Sessions
                                                    industries. We celebrated women who merited awards, and explored Se-
                                                    attle’s rich, multicultural history that benefits local culture and cuisine.
                                                        During post-conference tours, Dames learned about Eastern
    18       Partners' Showcase Luncheon            Washington wines and the character and striking diversity of
                                                    Vancouver’s market scene. Judy Rusignuolo (D.C.) says, “Our BC
    22       Global Culinary Initiative Breakfast   Dames could not have been more welcoming and generous, sharing
                                                    their professionalism and diverse culinary expertise with enthu-
    23       Grande Dame Award                      siastic Dames from many chapters. The action-packed, two-day
                                                    journey was thoroughly delightful!"

    25       Legacy Awards Luncheon
                                                      The Conference garnered many accolades. First-time attendee, Edin-
                                                    burgh-based Fiona Richmond (London) comments, “Most striking
                                                    was the warmth, friendliness, and openness of fellow members and
    26       Under the Big Top                      a strong sense of everyone working together for the common good.
                                                    The…mutual respect, willingness to share ideas and support the
    27       Post-Conference Tours                  reverence for luminaries such as Carol Brock;…together, we must
                                                    keep moving forward, adapting, and staying relevant to the world
                                                    we live in today.” First-timer Jen Kulick, Charleston’s president,
    D E PA RTMEN T S                                adds, “I attended a seminar on communication and management
                                                    skills that was really eye opening, and I came away with a new skill.”
    28       Chapter Programs                       Seattle President Lisa Nakamura shares, “We feasted on oysters, were
                                                    tickled pink by rosé, found our common visions through appreciative
    35       Green Tables
                                                    inquiry, and affirmed what we know—that food changes lives.”
                                                      Women are hardwired to connect and according to research, they
                                                    are “collegiate, collaborative, and inclusive.” If you haven’t attended
    36       Member Milestones                      Conference, this issue will inspire you to understand the possibili-
                                                    ties when Dames connect.” Lisa sums it up best, “Grey skies, bright
    39       Submission Guidelines                  idea + the power of Dames truly equals unstoppable.”
                                                                              —Susan Fuller Slack, Editor, Winter Quarterly
2                                                                             Les Dames d’Escoffier International
SEATTLE CONFERENCE ISSUE - WINTER 2019 - Les Dames d'Escoffier ...
PRESIDENT'S MESSAGE                                                                                             2019 LDEI BOARD
                                                                                                                OF DIRECTORS
The Transformative Power of Connection                                                                          The mission of the LDEI Board is to
                                                                                                                foster the growth and success of
                                                                                                                the organization by supporting the
                                                                                                                development of new and existing chapters
Ann Stratte (Washington, D.C.)                                                                                  and by implementing program initiatives.
                                                                                                                It provides leadership, guidance,
  “It was so wonderful to meet fellow Dames! As a                                                               education, connectivity, and effective
caterer working night and day for so many years, I                                                              communication among LDEI members.
never had a moment to attend the Conferences but                                                                President
I plan to in the future. I am thrilled that a Chapter                                                           ANN STRATTE
has opened in Paris, too! I am there often so will                                                              Lobster and Lox LLC
                                                                                                                100 Severn Avenue, #506
reach out to their members on my next trip!”                                                                    Annapolis, MD 21403-2622
   —Dame Ann Kirsebom, British Columbia,                                                                        (410) 903-2682 | annstratte@gmail.com
first-time LDEI Conference attendee                                                                             First Vice President
                                                                                                                BEV SHAFFER
  I continue to bask in the afterglow of the                                                                    Owner/COOK.WRITE.TRAVEL.REPEAT.
Seattle Conference where a year of achievements                                                                 Culinary Consultant | Recipe Development
and awards were celebrated at LDEI’s Annual                                                                     R&D | Food & Travel Writer
                                                                                                                3433 Blake Road
Meeting. We were treated to an extraordinary                                                                    Seville, OH 44273
experience making both lifelong friends and                                                                     (330) 441-2706
cherished memories. Thank you to Co-Chairs                                                                      bev.foodwithattitude@gmail.com
Naomi Kakiuchi, Catherine Hazen, Cynthia                                                                        Second Vice President
Nims, and all the Seattle Dames for organizing                                                                  DANIELLE WECKSLER
                                                                                                                Plateful Solutions
this amazing event. The superb content provided                                                                 326 Bayview Drive
from the Tours and Sessions links us to a myriad                                                                Mt. Pleasant, SC 29464
of new ideas to ponder.                                                                                         (843) 647-9902 | danielle@platefulsolutions.com
  My first day as president                                                                                     Third Vice President
                                                                                                                BETH VLASICH PAV
of LDEI, I connected with                                                              long-term, positive      Owner/Chef,
old and new friends on the                                                              impact on LDEI.         Cooking by Design, LLC
“Dames Do Canada” post-                                                                   The opportunity       5606 Stage Stop Circle
                                                                                                                Austin, TX 78738
conference tour, hosted by the                                                          to spend time with      (512) 431-8751 | beth@cookingbydesign.com
British Columbia Chapter.                                                                Dames from all         Secretary
Wining, dining, touring, and                                                             over the world is      JENNIFER GOLDMAN  
sharing experiences made this                                                            truly the highlight    Bal-Core Business Advisors
north-of-the-border experience                                                                                  6732 Vanderbilt St
                                                                                         of my year, and        Houston, TX 77005
very special, and we all left                                                             I can’t wait to       (843) 224-0198 | jgoldmansc@gmail.com
wanting more.                                                                             celebrate again in    Treasurer
  I look forward to joining more                                                          Nashville: Rhythm     SHARON OLSON
of you in a few weeks during                                                               & Roots, October     Culinary Visions Panel
                                                                                                                445 W. Erie Street, Suite 107
the third south-of-the-border                                                              24-27. Come with     Chicago, IL 60654
adventure, Flavors of Mexico,                                                              us next year and     (312) 280-4573 | sharon@culinaryvisions.org
in Oaxaca, March 6-9. The                                                                   see for yourself!   Chapter Board Liaisons
incredible Mexico Chapter will                                                               I am so            DREW FAULKNER
                                                                                                                Culinary Instructor
make you feel more connected                                                                grateful to hold    7407 Honeywell Lane
than ever to this beautiful area of                                                         the esteemed        Bethesda, MD 20814-1019
their country. I encourage you to                           position of LDEI president and look forward         Home/Office 301-986-8540
join in the adventure of a lifetime.                    to meeting with as many of you as possible              drewcooks@mac.com

  The growth of our international organization          throughout the year. Thank you all for this             STEPHANIE JAEGER
                                                                                                                Pear Tree Restaurant
to 42 chapters and over 2,300 members gives             tremendous opportunity.                                 1504 Appin Road
us exponential opportunities to unite and make            A final “thank you” to two women who were             North Vancouver, BC V7J 2T5
an impact. It is incumbent on your LDEI                 instrumental in moving our organization forward         (604) 299-2772 | ssjaeger@shaw.ca
Board to continue to improve the means for our          last year. Immediate Past President Hayley              GINA BURCHENAL
membership to communicate and collaborate                                                                       Gina's Kitchen
                                                        Matson-Mathes, thank you for your grace,                4036 Church Creek Point
with one another. Stay tuned as we work to              vision, and leadership. And to our founder Carol        Largo, FL 33774
provide a platform intended to encourage                Brock—you continue to be a role model and an            (512) 658-0338 | kgburchenal@gmail.com
connection and interaction among members.               inspiration to all of us every single day.              Immediate Past President
  Much appreciation to our Quarterly editors,                                                                   HAYLEY MATSON-MATHES
                                                        Salut,                                                  Owner/Culinary Consultant
Susan Slack and CiCi Williamson, and the
                                                        Ann                                                     2333 Kapiolani Boulevard #3516
many Dame contributors and photographers                                                                        Honolulu, HI 96826
who made the winter issue so special. The stories                                                               (808) 941-9088 | hayleymm@hawaii.rr.com
and photographs in these pages illustrate the                                                                   Executive Director
                                                                                                                GREG JEWELL
many layers of connection made at Conference.                                                                   President, AEC Management Resources
We are a diverse group of women who come                Dames Ann Stratte and Carol Brock with                  P.O. Box 4961
together to build meaningful relationships that         Carla Hall during the James Beard House dinner,         Louisville, KY 40204
add value to these connections, and they create a       “Carla Hall’s Soul Food.”                               (502) 456-1851 x1 | info@ldei.org

W I N T E R Q U A RT E R LY 2 019                                                                                                                           3
SEATTLE CONFERENCE ISSUE - WINTER 2019 - Les Dames d'Escoffier ...
Thank You
 What an enormous honor it was for our Seattle Chapter to
host this year’s LDEI Conference. We can’t thank enough all
those who made the trip to be part of those few days. You all
contributed to a dynamic energy of learning and engagement
that was so rewarding to experience as your hosts.
 We hope there are some bright ideas lingering from your
time in Seattle—a spark resulting from compelling workshops,
inspiring speakers, and the powerhouse Dames you encountered
while here. That and delicious memories of your time exploring
the city. There is no replacement for the value of time spent in
each other’s company. We look very forward to our next grand
gathering in Nashville!
Catherine Hazen, Naomi Kakiuchi, and Cynthia Nims
Seattle Conference Co-Chairs

Front Row, L-R: Seattle Conference Co-Chairs Catherine Hazen, Naomi
Kakiuchi, and Cynthia Nims. Back Row L-R: 2019 Seattle President Lisa
Nakamura, 2018 Past President Alison Leber, and Past President Jamie Peha.

S E AT TLE CO N F E R E NC E COVE R AG E

“I would highly recommend
attending Conference!
The educational experience was
priceless, and it was a fantastic
way to brainstorm with other
members and chapters.”                                                       Photo: Lisa Stewart.
Lisa Stewart (Dallas)

2019 LDEI BOARD OF DIRECTORS
L-R: Chapter Board Liaison (CBL) Bev Gruber (Seattle);
Third VP Beth Pav, in back (Austin); Second VP Danielle
Wecksler (Charleston); Secretary Jennifer Goldman
(Charleston); Past President Hayley Mathes-Matson
(Hawaii); President Ann Stratte (Washington, D.C.); Vice
President Bev Shaffer (Cleveland); CBL Drew Faulkner
(Washington, D.C.); Treasurer Sharon Olson, in back
(Cleveland). Not pictured: CBL Stephanie Jaeger (British
Columbia). Photo: Mike Mathes.

4                                                                                                   Les Dames d’Escoffier International
SEATTLE CONFERENCE ISSUE - WINTER 2019 - Les Dames d'Escoffier ...
Photo: CiCi Williamson.

 Alice G. Foreman Offers Incentive to Brock Circle Members
       ircle      By Hayley Matson-Mathes (Hawaii)                                 City Cirque, Seattle. She explained, “Our goal is 100 mem-
     kC                                                                            bers, so we could use your support with additional referrals!
                  LDEI Immediate Past President
Broc

                                                                                   We have $323,508 in our Brock Circle investment account
                   I am pleased to share some exciting news regarding the Brock    and a total of $560,000 pledged towards our million-dollar
  D               Circle. Dame Alice G. Foreman, co-founder of the Seattle         goal.” The Brock Circle is 56 members strong, with seven
 L

      EI
                  Chapter, created a very generous special incentive program       members joining in 2017-2018: Alison Awerbach, Kathy
                  designed to encourage completion of Brock Circle donations.      Gold, Barbara Hanley, Tina Krinsky, Sharon Olson, Mar-
                   Alice shared her vision for the accelerated payment plan and    garet Happel Perry, and Margaret Norfleet Neff.
                  explained its importance. “The incentive plan will enhance        Stacy shared 2018 examples of the Brock Circle’s Impact:
                  LDEI’s financial stability while giving individuals and chap-    • Webinar featuring Dr. Connie Mariano, “The White House
                  ters a handsome dividend. We will build capital more quickly,      Doctor,” (available on the LDEI website) offering leader-
                  enriching the work and outreach of the Brock Circle for            ship and life lessons for highly accomplished professionals
                  the benefit of all members.” The incentive offer is limited to
                  $5,000 and ends June 30th.                                       • Membership brochure updated electronically and available
                   See the formula below to calculate your individual or chapter     for download (twenty-five copies mailed to each chapter)
                  reward for completion of your Brock Circle commitment:           • LDEI Conference Session workshop “Up Your Communi-
                                                                                     cation Game” focusing on the compassionate and strategic
                     • Payment in full of $5,000 (or more) gives
                                                                                     communication skills needed to navigate difficult situations
                       the donor a $500 credit toward a Nashville                  • Marketing for the Trends Report (250 thumb drives,
                       Conference registration                                       uploaded with trends data, were distributed to conference
                                                                                     attendees)
                     • Payment in full of $4,000 gives the donor a $400
                       credit toward a Nashville Conference registration            The purpose of the Brock Circle is to ensure the fiscal health
                                                                                   of the organization by providing a resource—in alignment
                     • Payment in full of $3,000 gives the donor a $300
                                                                                   with the LDEI mission—to support strategic needs and special
                       credit toward a Nashville Conference registration
                                                                                   conference enhancements. Our goal is 100 members pledging
                     • Payment in full of $2,000 gives the donor a $200            $10,000 (payments can be prorated over ten years or made in
                       credit toward a Nashville Conference registration           full). Consider the stock donation program which allows for
                                                                                   donation of stocks, bonds, or mutual funds directly to LDEI.
                                                                                    Learn how you can join the Brock Circle, hayleymm@
                   Past President Stacy Zeigler welcomed Brock Circle mem-
                                                                                   hawaii.rr.com
                  bers to a VIP LDEI reception on October 13 at the Emerald

       H O S P I TA L I T Y
       ROOM

W I N T E R Q U A RT E R LY 2 019                                                                                                                    5
SEATTLE CONFERENCE ISSUE - WINTER 2019 - Les Dames d'Escoffier ...
PRE-CONFERENCE TOURS

[ Tour 1 ]
Rustic & Elegant—
A Countryside Culinary Adventure
By Barb Pires (Atlanta)                been producing the power neces-
                                       sary to run a hydroelectric plant
  One of the big decisions I make
                                       since 1899. We were in luck and
every year about Conference
                                       able to see the beauty of what
is choosing a Pre-Conference
                                       nature has created—one never
tour. It’s always a
                                       knows if the mist and fog will
tough decision,
                                       obscure the view.
and no mat-
                                         After a short ride we arrived at
ter which one I
                                       Carnation Farms, a nonprofit,
have chosen in
                                       818-acre organic property that
years past, they
                                       grows vegetables, fruits and
all have been
                                       flowers, and raises poultry for
worthwhile. This year’s Rustic
                                       local markets and stands. The
& Elegant tour was just amaz-
                                       farm has come a long way from
ing—beginning at Snoqualmie
                                       the days of producing evapo-
Falls, then to Carnation Farms
                                       rated milk and Friskies. The
for a visit and lunch, and on to
                                       summer camps and field trips,
the final stop at Chateau Ste.
                                       designed by dietitian Martha
Michelle Wine Estates. The
                                       Marino, show kids what it takes           Carnation Farms scenic vista. L-R: Resident chef Caprial Pence and Dame
perfect weather, breathtaking
                                       to raise, prepare, and cook what          Martha Marino. Chateau Ste. Michelle Wine Estates.
views, commentary presented
                                       they grow. They can also attend
by the Seattle Dames during the
                                       sessions on public speaking
bus ride, delicious lunch with                                                   the farm tour, we headed up             50th anniversary. After an edu-
                                       and working in a food bank.
wines, and “sensory sojourn”                                                     the mountain for a delicious            cational and tasting tour of the
                                       The farm’s adult internships
wine-tasting class could not have                                                farm-to table-lunch prepared            winery, we experienced a “sensory
                                       give farmers-in-training the
been better.                                                                     by Caprial Pence—James Beard            sojourn.” We were asked to blind
                                       knowledge to run organic farms,
  It was a chilly 40 degrees when                                                award winner for Best Chef in           taste seven different wines as well
                                       to raise chickens humanely,
we arrived at the majestic Sno-                                                  the Northwest.                          as smell seven different scents
                                       and market what is produced.
qualmie Falls; you could feel the                                                  Next and final stop was at Cha-       to determine what we perceived
                                       Unfortunately, we didn’t see
energy that this mini Niagara                                                    teau Ste. Michelle. The Chateau         the wine to be—from Sauvignon
                                       the gang of approximately 75
generated. The Falls were created                                                has recently undergone a $7 mil-        Blanc to a mystery wine that was
                                       elk that usually visit daily. After
during the Ice Age and have                                                      lion renovation celebrating their       Erath Merlot. It was a good day!

[ Tour 2 ] Coffee, The Hot Stove Society and Chocolate
By Belinda Smith-                                                                                                        coffee beans being roasted on site,
Sullivan (Charleston)                                                                                                    in towering, copper roasting silos
                                                                                                                         attended by master roasters. No
  Our tour defi-                                                                                                         wonder this is the number three
nitely started out                                                                                                       tourist destination in Seattle.
on the right note.                                                                                                        The group had the opportunity
The Starbucks Re-                                                                                                        to spend some time with the
serve Roasteries,                                                                                                        site manager learning about the
in the Capital Hill                                                                                                      art and craft of blending and
area of Seattle,                                                                                                         roasting coffee. We did a taste
is truly Starbucks on steroids!!                                                                                         comparison of three varietals
                                       Seattle’s Starbucks Reserve Roasteries. Artisan bread at Starbucks. Photos:
It’s not just a place to sip a latte   Belinda Smith-Sullivan                                                            of coffees including Honduras,
anymore; you can get whatever                                                                                            Jamaican Blue Mountain, and
your heart desires from coffee to      sandwiches, artisan breads, and           bar! And in the middle of it all, it
an awesome collection of pastries,     more. It even boasts a full-size          was very exciting to observe the
                                                                                                                         continued ON NEXT PAGE

6                                                                                                               Les Dames d’Escoffier International
SEATTLE CONFERENCE ISSUE - WINTER 2019 - Les Dames d'Escoffier ...
[ Tour 3 ]
To Market, To Market
Dames get an inside look at the
iconic Pike Place Market
By Elaine T. Cicora                                 from an assortment of vendors.
(Cleveland)                                          Our tour stepped off with hot coffee and
                                                    buttery biscuits from a relative newcomer to
 Which of the following is true?                    the market, Honest Biscuits; moved on to
 1.   Founded in 1907, Se-                          Chukar Cherries, where owner Pam Mont-
      attle’s Pike Place Market                     gomery has been selling her products since
      is the oldest continu-                        1992; swung by Daily Dozen Doughnut
      ously operating market                        Company to feast on mini bacon-maple
      in America.                                   doughnuts; made a layover at the circa-1930
 2.   Pike Place Market is the                      Pike Place Fish Co., for their world-famous,
      only historic district in                     sustainably sourced, alderwood-smoked salm-
      the nation to have been established by        on and a signature fish-tossing performance
      public vote.                                  from the mongers; and concluded at family-
 3.   Beyond being home to seafood, pro-            owned Indi Chocolate, an artisanal bean-to-
      duce, and fabulous flower bouquets,           bar manufacturer specializing in single-origin,
      the market was chartered by the City of       dark chocolates.
      Seattle to provide an array of social ser-     Diving in and out of the warren of multi-
      vice programs that support more than          story buildings, narrow alleys, and brick-
      11,000 vulnerable children, families,         paved plazas that make up the vast 9-acre
      and seniors every year.                       market, we passed by dozens of farmers’ stalls,
 4.   All of the above.                             scores of crafters, more than 200 unique
                                                    owner-operated shops, and over 80 restau-
  If you answered No. 4, “All of the above,”        rants. Good thing the market is open 363
give yourself a Star(bucks). Those are just         days per year: It could easily take that long to
a few of the facts learned by the Dames             see everything!
and their guests who took part in a pre-             The morning concluded with a brief bus ride
conference, early-access, VIP tour of Seattle’s     to Orfeo restaurant for a taste of Northwest
historic market on Oct. 11, 2018.                   bounty from Chef Kevin Davis, plus a Q&A
  Clocking in at nearly three-hours, our            with Seattle Dames whose decades-long ties         Dames and a guest at Indi Chocolate in Pike
curated stroll was provided by Savor Seattle        to the market run deep; among them was             Place Market, L-R: Sophia Fischer (Savor Seattle
Food Tours. For ease of communications, our         Kristi Drake (Le Panier); Pam Montgomery           Tours), Ashley Freeman, Sylvia Ganier, Marilyn
little mob of 29 was divided into two smaller       (Chukar Cherries); and Angela Shen (Savor          Freundlich, Elaine Cicora, Brad Albing (guest),
groups, each with their own knowledgeable                                                              Patty Erd, Julie Chernoff, Darla Crask, Holly
                                                    Seattle Food Tours).                               Chute. Tour guide Patrick Allcorn (in baseball
guide. Patrick Allcorn was our group’s leader,       Thanks to them—and to all the Seattle             cap) provided plenty of information. Dame Pam
and he graciously filled our heads with facts       Dames—for sharing the flavors of their won-        Montgomery of Chuckar Cherries dropped by to
while filling our tummies with delicious treats     derful city!                                       greet us. Photos: Elaine Cicora

T O U R 2 continued
Starbuck Reserve Pantheon              school operated by restaurateur       • Spice egg and herb salad           to the production lab where we
Blend. We discussed the differ-        Tom Douglas, who owns 13 fine         • Coconut cream pie bites            observed the step-by-step process
ence between coffee makers and         dining restaurants in downtown         A selection of fine wines was       that transforms the cacao pods
how each effects the flavor of         Seattle. Our host was Bridget         paired perfectly to this meal fit    from “bean to bar.”
coffee. Our three takeaways:           Charters, chef instructor,            for Dames!                            Theo Chocolate is very proud
• Before drinking coffee in the        culinary producer of wine, food        We ended our tour at Theo           of its sourcing practices, starting
  morning, drink water with            festivals, and Emmy award-            Chocolate, the first organic pro-    with building long-term “Fair
  lemon to wake up the taste buds.     winning cooking shows. Chef           ducers of chocolate in the U.S.      Trade” relationships with cacao
• Coffee should be drunk luke-         Charters and assistants prepared      Our tour of the Theo factory         farmers around the world. This
  warm—not hot—to release the          for us a very delicious lunch feast   and retail store started with an     practice ensures that farmers have
  full flavor.                         consisting of:                        introduction to chocolate and a      positive working conditions and
• Serve chocolate with coffee to       • House pita served alongside         tasting to experience the differ-    competitive prices for their crop,
  eliminate sugar or cream.               Greek yogurt with cucumber         ence between 45 percent, 70          which allows them to grow their
 The next stop on our tour was            and herbs                          percent, and 85 percent chocolate    businesses and send their children
the Hot Stove Society, a cooking       • Mint and Onion Boreks               composition. We then moved           to school.

W I N T E R Q U A RT E R LY 2 019                                                                                                                     7
SEATTLE CONFERENCE ISSUE - WINTER 2019 - Les Dames d'Escoffier ...
PRE-CONFERENCE TOURS

                                                                                                       [ Tour 5 ]
[ Tour 4 ] Hip & Historic Georgetown                                                                   Traditions &
By Marsha Palanci (New York)                             Fran’s is a family affair with Andrina run-
                                                       ning the business side, her brother and
                                                                                                       Tastes of Seattle’s
  Dave, our “Elvis” bus driver, described
Georgetown as Seattle’s second oldest
                                                       CIA-graduate, Dylon, developing recipes and
                                                       managing production, and their mother, the
                                                                                                       International District
neighborhood dating from
                                                       namesake and soul of the chocolate kingdom.     By Susan F. Slack
1851. Now, its industrial
                                                         Late, we dashed to our next appointment
brick warehouses make up a                                                                             (Charleston)
                                                       at nearby Charles Smith Wines Jet City
lively community of wineries,
                                                       winery. Overlooking Boeing’s airstrip, the        Seattle’s International
micro-breweries, distilleries,
                                                       former Dr. Pepper bottling plant and later      District was the destination
coffee shops, and affordable
                                                       pornography film studio is now one of           for 17 Dames and guests led
housing for local hipsters. It
                                                       Seattle’s most-talked-about wineries.           by expert tour guide Naomi
is also the home of Fran’s “chocolate factory.”
                                                         Winemaker Brennan Leighton described          Kakiuchi. The richly diverse neighborhood
  With Dame Fran Bigelow away in Japan
                                                       owner Charles Smith’s non-conventional          consists of Chinatown, Japantown (Nihon-
opening a new store, her daughter and
                                                       foray into the wine business following a        machi), and a Filipino community. There is
CEO, Andrina, hosted us at their 32,000
                                                       career as a rock band promoter in Denmark.      also a significant Vietnamese (Little Saigon)
square foot facility. We put on hair nets
                                                       Considered a newcomer and maverick              and Korean presence. Their histories and
and white lab coats to enter Fran’s world
                                                       in the wine business, Charles’ “wines of        ethnic traditions have blended seamlessly
of smooth, creamy, sweet chocolate. One
                                                       substance”—many with astonishingly high         into one multiethnic community—unique
could not help but recall images of Lucy and
                                                       ratings—are produced from grapes grown          in the continental United States. A sizable
Ethel at the conveyor belt frantically stuff-
                                                       in Eastern Washington using sustainable or      portion of the area is listed on the National
ing candy in their mouths to keep up with
                                                       biodynamic practices.                           Register of Historic Places.
production. Not the case at Fran’s where
                                                         Even after selling his namesake wine brand      To learn about Seattle’s earliest immigrants,
precision, control, and quality dominate.
                                                       to giant Constellation for $12 million in       Naomi guided us to the Wing Luke Museum
  Our group salivated watching the hand
                                                       2016, Charles Smith remains the third           of the Asian Pacific American Experience—
production of Fran’s sinfully delicious fleur
                                                       largest producer in Washington. Today he        the first Smithsonian affiliate in the Pacific
de sel chocolate caramels. President Obama
                                                       makes 450,000 cases under his remaining         Northwest. The three-story museum is housed
fell in love with them too and commis-
                                                       brands, which include K Vintners, SIXTO,        in the East Kong Yick Building, built in 1910.
sioned her to create a special gift box with
                                                       Vino, Casa Smith, B. Leighton, and Charles      It honors Wing Luke, Seattle’s first Asian
his Presidential seal as VIP inaugural gifts.
                                                       & Charles.                                      American elected to public office. Through
Catapulted into the spotlight from that,
                                                         Priced between $12-$140 a bottle, the         exhibits, archival photographs, and presenta-
Fran’s is now considered one of the country’s
                                                       same meticulous wine-making process is          tions, the immigrant stories came to life.
preeminent chocolatiers.
                                                       used for the entire range. Charles believes       On the top floors, once the Freeman Hotel,
  Andrina taught us how to taste chocolate
                                                       in “bringing the vineyard to the bottle”        we saw rooms with artifacts once rented to
like a pro. Between bites, we looked for an
                                                       by keeping each batch of fermented juice        itinerant workers for 25 cents. A large room
exterior shine, then a cracking sound when
                                                       in separate barrels, manipulating the           with a pressed tin ceiling was used by the
we bite into the chocolate—both indicators
                                                       wines minimally, and never blending. The        Gee How Oak Tin Family Association for
of the proper chocolate tempering. Then,
                                                       winemakers’ magic touch was evident as we       meals, meetings, and mah jong. Dr. Sun
a rich coating on the tongue, and finally, a
                                                       tasted through different wines including his    Yat-Sen—first president of the Republic
lingering taste sensation on the palate. Fran’s
                                                       most expensive, Royal City Syrah, before        of China—spoke here in the 1920s. From
chocolates met all these criteria of excellence.
                                                       heading to lunch.                               the windows, we saw brick buildings with
                                                                                                       elaborately decorated balconies like those
                                                                                                       in Southern China, often signifying clan
                                                                                                       organizations and social clubs.
                                                                                                         Leaving the museum, we strolled to Tsue
                                                                                                       Chong Company, Inc., where Rose Brand
                                                                                                       Chinese noodles and fortune cookies are
                                                                                                       produced for restaurant and grocery distri-
                                                                                                       bution in the Pacific Northwest.
                                                                                                         We were greeted by 4th generation family
                                                                                                       member Brian Louie, a cousin of President
                                                                                                       Tim Louie. The business was started in 1917
                                                                                                       by their immigrant great grandfather, Gar
                                                                                                       Hip Louie, from South China. We watched
                                                                                                       as dough was run through sheeters then
                                                                                                       cut into various shapes for fresh noodles
Elvis, the taxi driver. Dames in hairnets—on the chocolate trail.                                      continued ON NEXT PAGE

8                                                                                                        Les Dames d’Escoffier International
SEATTLE CONFERENCE ISSUE - WINTER 2019 - Les Dames d'Escoffier ...
T O U R 5 continued                                 crisp, and delicious.
                                                                                                             We returned to the Wing Luke Museum
                                                       and dumpling wrappers. On the third floor,          and the Tateuchi Story Theater where Denise
                                                       noodles were air dried, deep fried, and             Moriguchi, the 4th generation CEO of
                                                       steamed cooked. Rice noodles, a top seller,         Uwajimaya, shared the history of the Asian
                                                       are made daily.                                     grocery retailer—the largest and oldest in the
                                                        Tsu Chong’s fortunes rest on cookies as well       Pacific Northwest. We tasted vegetarian Bánh
                                                       as noodles! Brian and Tim’s grandmother             Bôt Loc, chewy tapioca dumplings steamed
                                                       Eng Shee Louie began making fortune cook-           in banana leaves—a specialty of Hue in
                                                       ies in the 50s. It is likely they were first pro-   Central Vietnam.
                                                       duced by Japanese Americans in California.            For lunch, we divided into groups to visit
                                                         Grandmother Louie’s batter included               two neighborhood businesses owned by
                                                       pastry flour, vanilla, and coconut oil and          women: Ping's Dumpling House and Szech-
                                                       was baked in 48 small griddles. She could           uan Noodle Bowl, where we relished the va-
                                                       shape and stuff fortunes into 13 cookies per        riety of Chinese dumplings. After lunch, we
                                                       minute. Broken pieces were sold as “unfor-          met at Hing Hay Park, the site of a colorful
                                                       tunates” in the retail shop. With high-speed        Chinese pavilion that was a gift from the city
                                                       automation, over 7,000 cookies are now              of Taipei. Under the ginkgo biloba trees, we
                                                       produced per hour. Fewer are broken, but            ate exquisite Japanese wagashi, (traditional
                                                       demand remains high, so the Louie family            tea sweets) resembling fan-shaped ginkgo
                                                       continues to produce them on older ma-              leaves. Each piece mirrored the golden-yel-
                                                       chines. We received a bag of vanilla-scented        low ginkgo leaves hanging over our heads.
                                                       fortune cookies from Naomi; they were thin,
Freshly made Chinese noodles drying on a rack. Naomi Kakiuchi and Brian Louie sample "unfortunate" cookies. Photos: CiCi Williamson. We ate plump pork
and chive dumplings and vegetable dumplings with scallion pancakes at the Szechuan Noodle Bowl. Traditional Japanese wagashi made from mochi and
anko (red bean paste). Photos: Susan Slack.

[ Tour 6 ] Cutting Edge—Where Technology Meets Food
By Beth Pav (Austin)                                    stories of her love of doughnuts, collaboration
                                                        with Amazon, and building a restaurant empire.
  “Look up and look around” were the first words
                                                        Sugar high and caffeine buzzed, we met Ama-
we heard as Dames stepped off the bus into what
                                                        zon’s chief horticulturist and plant whisperer,
is referred to as “Amazonia;” really,
                                                        Ron Gagliardo. In groups, we toured each floor
it’s downtown Seattle. Looking
                                                        of The Spheres.
closely, we saw thoughtfully
                                                          Moving upwards on stone footpaths, we
designed landscapes and intricate
                                                        were enveloped in over 40,000 plant varieties
architecture. Hence, we begin our
                                                        from regions in over 30 countries. Significant
LDEI pre-conference tour.
                                                        is a 3-panel plant wall holding 25,000 plants
  In the shadow of The (Ama-
                                                        3 stories high. We walked along a suspended
zon) Spheres, tour guides Molly Hancock, VP
                                                        bridge leading to a man-made “birds nest” where
Programs FareStart, and Danielle Custer, Bon
                                                        employees nestled comfortably on benches. At
Appetite Management, begin with an overview
                                                        every turn, flora and water features mimicked
of Amazon Go, The Spheres, General Porpoise,
                                                        tropical eco-systems in explosions of color and
and FareStart. “Look around—Amazon’s culture
                                                        texture. Our guide shared Amazons’ philosophy
begins right here,” Molly says. “See that dog park
                                                        that a connection to nature makes you feel
over there?” Not a few steps away was a beauti-
                                                        good. Therefore, The Spheres are a place to learn,
fully designed city dog park made especially for
                                                        be curious, recharge, and inspire.
Amazon employees. Moving through the morn-
                                                          Thusly inspired, our tour moved across the
ing bustle of employees, we petted some friendly
                                                        street to one of Amazon’s newly funded expan-
dogs and made our way to Amazon Go.
                                                        sions holding FareStart, a nonprofit providing
  Amazon Go is a grocery store that uses several
                                                        national culinary job-training programming.
technologies to automate the shoppers’ experi-
                                                        Danielle explained how Amazon’s philanthropy
ence. We downloaded the app, perused pre-
                                                        touches people and business through food service
package foods, beverages, and various sundries,
                                                        partnerships. FareStart, through adult and youth
shopped, and left! Next thing you know, our
                                                        programming, is transforming the personal lives
purchase receipts were emailed to us. It was the
                                                        of the homeless and impoverished. Stepping
perfect technological, hands-on, in-and-out
                                                        through their kitchens and speaking with ap-
shopping experience! Next stop—The Spheres.
                                                        prentices, we viewed first-hand the difference this
  The Spheres are an architectural wonder of glass                                                              L-R: Dianne Hogerty, Mindy Merrell, Beth
                                                        programming is making in individual lives. After
and steel built specifically as a tropical biosphere                                                            Pav, Fern Yoshida, Karen Dar Woon, Cindy
                                                        the tour, we enjoyed a delicious apprenticed-
workspace for Amazon employees. We gathered                                                                     McGann, Margaret Norfleet Neff, Mary
                                                        made luncheon in the FareStart restaurant. Spe-         Kimbrough, Audrey Nelson. Coffee and
for doughnuts, coffee and conversation with
                                                        cial thanks to our tour guides for this exceptional     doughnuts at General Porpoise with Dame
James Beard award winner and General Porpoise
                                                        tour, which was a wonderful experience! For             Renee Erickson.
owner Renee Erickson. She regaled us with
                                                        additional information, visit: www.farestart.org.
W I N T E R Q U A RT E R LY 2 019                                                                                                                          9
SEATTLE CONFERENCE ISSUE - WINTER 2019 - Les Dames d'Escoffier ...
“I left Conference
understanding the
importance of the
organization and
feeling inspired.
I also made some
great connections
and learned
about new brands
to potentially
partner with.”
Ashley Strickland
Freeman
(Charleston)

     An Evening of Aloha: The LDEI President’s Dinner                                                  Renee Erickson, award-winning James
                                                                                                       Beard chef, chats with Carol Brock.
                                                                                                       President Hayley recognized Executive
     During Conference, 2018 International President Hayley Matson-Mathes (Hawaii) hosted
                                                                                                       Director Greg Jewell, president of AEC
     a President’s Dinner at Renee Erickson’s General Porpoise restaurant for the outgoing and         Resources, for 17 years of invaluable
     incoming Boards, past presidents, Conference co-chairs, and special guests. A welcoming           service to LDEI (since Nov. 1, 2002).
     “aloha spirit” was evident in the flower arrangements, fragrant lei, and thoughtful gifts         Then-President Renie Steves said an
     of appreciation for the guests. Once reserved for royalty, the lei is given for many reasons      association with AEC and Greg would
                                                                                                       increase the organization’s efficiency
     including aloha, hospitality, and respect. The occasion was also an advance birthday
                                                                                                       and facilitate a strong connection
     celebration for LDEI founder Carol Brock (New York), soon to turn 95-years-young. Carol           among chapters.
     was honored with a special cake and showered with well wishes and appreciation for
     impacting the lives of countless women.

      F I R S T-T I M E
      AT T E N D E E S

10                                                                                                  Les Dames d’Escoffier International
Leadership Meeting Inspires
                                                                                 Learning and Sharing
                                                                                 By Sharon Olson                       ment of new members.
                                                                                 (Chicago)                               The advice from Deborah was
                                                                                                                       to seek out and recruit members
                                                                                   Learning from experts has           who can contribute substan-
                                                                                 always been a hallmark of the         tially to the organization. She
                                                                                 leadership meet-                      offered to share the details of
                                                                                 ing at the Annual                     the New York process with any
                                                                                 Conference. This                      interested chapters.
                                                                                 year’s Conference                       Blanca Aldaco shared the con-
                                                                                 took advantage of                     vivial yet professional nature of
                                                                                 the experts among                     the San Antonio Chapter’s board
                                                                                 our members                           meetings which are typically
                                                                                 who have invested their time          fully attended. San Antonio is
                                                                                 and passion in building their         another chapter that understood,
                                                                                 chapters.                             from the very beginning, the
                                                                                   Debra Kaminski, found-              need for diversity and focused on
                                                                                 ing president of the Portland         recruiting beyond current profes-
                                                                                 Chapter, shared her story of          sional friends.
                                                                                 the struggles and triumphs of           Working together toward a
                                                                                 building their new chapter. From      charitable endeavor in the lo-
                                                                                 the very beginning, she made a        cal community unites chapter
                                                                                 commitment to recruit members         members. There is a clear un-
                                                                                 from diverse professional disci-      derstanding among members of
                                                                                 plines and to not only focus on       the San Antonio Chapter that
                                                                                 the tight circle of her established   membership in Les Dames is
                                                                                 professional networks.                much more than an item to put
                                                                                   Building membership one             on a résumé.
                                                                                 Dame at a time was Debra’s              Insight from the presentations
                                                                                 strategy, and it often led her to     and discussions that followed:
                                                                                 make cold calls and personal
                                                                                 visits to prospective members.        • Recruit members from
                                                                                 It was not uncommon to find               diverse backgrounds and
                                                                                 her sitting in a restaurant long          professional disciplines.
                                                                                 after her meal, waiting to talk       • Clearly communicate the
                                                                                 with the chef at the end of the           advantages and responsibili-
                                                                                 evening. The next challenge was           ties of membership.
                                                                                 creating a board with vision          • Member surveys and effec-
                                                                                 and the ability to execute. Three         tive communication help
                                                                                 significant learnings helped this         chapters build member
                                                                                 chapter grow: do not give up              value.
                                                                                 when things do not work out as        • Maintain positive, produc-
                                                                                 planned, do not be discouraged,           tive communication with
                                                                                 and do not be hesitant to ask             chapter members.
                                                                                 for support from International
                                                                                 Board members and particularly        • Chapter management is
                                                                                 Chapter Board Liaisons.                   running a business.
                                                                                   Deborah Mintcheff, past             • Reach out for advice, sup-
                                                                                 president of the large and well-          port, and guidance.
                                                                                 established New York Chapter,         • Let set-backs be learning ex-
                                                                                 shared the journey of her chap-           periences to build a stronger
                                                                                 ter in re-evaluating its member-          future.
                                                                                 ship process to assure that the
                                                                                                                       • Enjoy the experience.
                                                                                 chapter maintains its vibrancy
                                                                                 and relevance. The challenge           As one first time attendee and
                                                                                 this chapter faced was member         chapter president shared at the
                                                                                 engagement. As the chapter’s          conclusion of the meeting, “it
                                                                                 membership process was evalu-         was wonderful to have a forum
                                                                                 ated, critical points were recon-     where all of our burning issues
                                                                                 sidered. These included: sponsor      were addressed in such a sup-
Leadership speakers, L-R: Blanca Aldaco, Deborah Mintcheff, and Debra Ka-
minski. Julie Chernoff. Photo by Lisa Stewart. L-R: Drew Faulkner (Washington,   responsibility, a communicative       portive environment.” Everyone
D.C.) and Stephanie Jaeger (BC). Seattle Dame Alice Gautsch Foreman. Photo:      and transparent recruitment           adjourned from the meeting
Lisa Stewart. Photos of roundtable discussions on leadership by Lisa Stewart.    process, and immediate engage-        with a new sense of optimism
                                                                                                                       for the future of their chapters.
W I N T E R Q U A RT E R LY 2 019                                                                                                                     11
Top row: The Pike Brewing Company. Jackie
                                                                                                           Cross, owner of Prosser Farm, chats with
                                                                                                           Hayley Mathes. Jackie and Tom Douglas,
                                                                                                           her husband, supply vegetables for Tom
                                                                                                           Douglas Restaurants. Photo: Lisa Nakamura.
                                                                                                           Salmon smoked on handcrafted red cedar
                                                                                                           planks with dried sugar kelp flakes and bull
                                                                                                           kelp mignonette. Middle row: Seattle Culi-
                                                                                                           nary Academy students from Seattle Central
                                                                                                           College. Photo: Lisa Nakamura. Fin River
                                                                                                           Cider. Penn Cove Thai-Style Mussels. L-R:
                                                                                                           Seattle Conference Co-Chair Cynthia Nims
                                                                                                           with Seattle Dame Linda Chauncey. Photo:
                                                                                                           Lisa Nakamura.

Bottom row: Seattle
Dames, L-R: Pascha
Scott, Anne Nisbet,
Jamie Peha. Photo: Lisa
Nakamura. Dame Maria
Coassin (L) of Gelatiamo
with a helper. Executive
Chef Tom Douglas won
the 2012 James Beard
Outstanding Restau-
rateur award. Photos:
Susan Slack, unless noted
otherwise.

Salishly                                         and the Puget Sound. Its major port cities are
                                                 Seattle, Vancouver, Tacoma, Bellingham, Port
                                                 Angeles, and Victoria, which make up part of
                                                                                                  Shell with Sugar Kelp Mignonette.
                                                                                                   The seafood offerings were paired with an
                                                                                                  array of wines, ciders, and beers from local

Delicious—                                       the megalopolis extending from West Vancou-
                                                 ver, BC, to Olympia, Washington.
                                                  According to scientists, there are at least
                                                                                                  vineyards, farms, and breweries. Dame Kay
                                                                                                  Simon poured her Chinook Wines; others
                                                                                                  were provided from Chateau Ste. Michelle,
A Seafood Feast                                  253 identified species of fish and bivalves
                                                 inhabiting the regions of the Salish Sea, and
                                                                                                  Buty Winery, DAMA Wines, and Baer Win-
                                                                                                  ery. There was San Pellegrino Sparking Water,
                                                 the feasting Dames got to sample quite a few     cider from Finn River Cider, and craft beer
By Irene Moore (South Florida)                   of them. The dinner featured an amazing          served by Pike Brewing Company that was
 On Thursday evening, October 11, many           showcase of Pacific Northwest clams, oysters,    generously donated by the company’s owner,
of the Dames and guests who attended the         mussels, salmon and more, as well as several     Dame Rose Ann Finkel.
Opening Reception—the                            non-seafood offerings.                            Another treat was Squash with Bacon-Onion
traditional Conference kick-off                   When we arrived, Chef Tom—a winner of           Agrodulce from Prosser Farms. To wrap up
—took a brisk walk afterwards                    the James Beard Best Chef of the Northwest       dinner with a sweet ending, Maria Coas-
in the crisp, autumn air to Tom                  award—was preparing Cedar Plank Smoked           sin served refreshing gelato from Gelatiamo
Douglas’ Palace Ballroom to                      Salmon. Once inside, we were offered samples     accompanied by an assortment of bite-size
attend the Seattle Chapter’s                     as well as a delicious harvest soup to warm us   pastries and cookies.
benefit dinner, Salishly Deli-                   up. Tom Douglas Catering also passed minia-       “The evening’s proceeds benefitted the Puget
cious. During the lavish event, guests feasted   ture crab cakes. From the shellfish farm Hama    Sound Restoration Fund, which works to re-
on shellfish and finfish straight from the       Hama, we ate fresh oysters on the half-shell     store marine habitat, water quality, and native
Salish Sea.                                      and steamed Manila clams with Honeycrisp         species in Puget Sound. The Fund is commit-
 Never heard of the Salish Sea? You would        apples, Guanciale, Celery Leaf, and Finn         ted to a vision of keeping the Sound clean and
have if you lived in the Northwest. It’s the     River Apple Cider. Penn Cove Shellfish served    healthy, productive, full of life, and sustaining
network of coastal waterways encompassing        Mussels Meuniere Style with Prosser Leeks        the local ecosystem. The Restoration Fund
the northwestern portion of the state of Wash-   and White Wine, and also Thai-Style Mussels      rebuilds populations of oysters, abalone, and
ington and the southwestern portion of British   with Coconut Green Curry and Thai Basil.         kelp—all key to maintaining a healthy ecosys-
Columbia. Comprising the Salish Sea are the      Chelsea Farms Oysters & Clams featured           tem and helping to keep the waters pristine
Strait of Georgia, the Strait of Juan de Fuca,   Geoduck Crudo, and Oysters on the Half           and bountiful for generations to come.”

12                                                                                                   Les Dames d’Escoffier International
M . F. K . F I S H E R AWA R D S , 2 0 18

                                                           Cleveland Dame
                                                           Elaine Cicora Wins
                                                           the Grand Prize
                                                           By Mary Ellen Griffin
Role model Lori Matsukawa purposely navigates the
road that lies ahead of her, and she considers all the
                                                           (New York)
possibilities when opportunity comes her way. But            Sixty or so years ago,
sometimes, taking a look back through the rear view
mirror to snap a group selfie can be great fun!
                                                           Dame Elaine Cicora
                                                           dined at an Italian
                                                           restaurant whose chef-
KEYNOTE SPEAKER                                            owner went on to be
                                                           known as Chef Boyard-
Living Your Best Life—                                     ee. She confides, "I impressed our waiter
                                                           with my capacity for scarfing down
A Conversation with                                        spaghetti…I’ve often chuckled at the
                                                           memory of being praised by our slim,
                                                           elegant, Italian server for being such a
Award-Winning News                                         good little eater! No wonder I became a
                                                           restaurant critic!"
Anchor Lori Matsukawa                                        And this little tyke went on to win
                                                           the 2018 M.F.K. Fisher Grand Prize              2018 M.F.K. Fisher Chair CiCi Williamson
By Katherine Newell Smith                                  winner for “Me & Chef Boyardee: How             and Elaine Chicora, Grand Prize and Print
                                                           Cleveland’s first celebrity chef made me        Category Winner. CiCi Williamson and Ea-
(Washington, D.C.)                                         the woman I am today,” a warm and               granie Yuh, First Prize Winner for the Internet
                                                                                                           Category.
  “Life is all about choices,” Lori Matsukawa              humorous article which appeared in the
said. “We make them and we live with the re-               Summer 2017 issue of Edible Cleveland.          And she made a special call out, which
sults.” Lori, the news anchor for Seattle’s NBC-             Elaine went on to explain that Ettore         we all echo, thanking CiCi Williamson
affiliate King 5 TV, described her                         Boiardi was an immigrant from Italy, like       (Washington, D.C.) who has worked
life of fortunate choices, not all                         her grandfather, who came to the United         tirelessly to make the M.F.K. Fisher
of them obvious at the time, dur-                          States via Ellis Island in 1914. "The chef’s    Awards the success story it is today.
ing her keynote speech at LDEI’s                           story appealed to me for so many reasons:         Commenting on the importance of the
Seattle Conference.                                        the bonds of a shared Italian heritage, the     M.F.K. Fisher Awards: "In an era when
  Growing up in Hawaii, with                               fact that (he) went on to become, as one        newspapers and magazines have been
educators as parents, she was a socially awkward           of his acquaintances put it, “the American      hemorrhaging both readers and their
girl with braces and glasses. So, as a 15-year-old         success story personified…”                     most experienced and talented staff,
wallflower with a lot of time on her hands, she              On presenting the award at this year's        and novice writers are routinely urged
decided to take piano lessons. A quick study, her          Annual Conference, Hayley Matson-               to write “for exposure” rather than for
musical abilities soon led to a successful audition        Mathes (Hawaii) quoted another word-            money, awards programs like this one,
to become the accompanist for her high school              smith, Antonia Allegra (San Francisco)          that formally recognize works of merit
choir. She even dreamed of becoming a piano                who penned her reflections on her close         and encourage writers to strive to meet
teacher.                                                   friend, M.F.K. Fisher, to share at this         the highest standards, are vital to keep-
  During that same year, while walking home on a           Conference: "Thinking of Mary Frances           ing the field of culinary writing strong
seldom-traveled street after a piano lesson, Lori was      (you did not truly "know" her if you            and relevant." That this contest specifi-
assailed by a “short, burly man” with a gun. She           called her M.F.K.), I gladly share these        cally solicits and recognizes the work
resisted as best she could as he pulled her toward         reminiscences of that goddess of the pen        of women writers is more meaningful
a house. Miraculously, a passing car carrying a            and the pan. Not that she was a cook            still." Congratulations, Dame Cicora!
soldier and his wife stopped. The soldier got out,         who prepared elegant dishes in the style
yelled at the man to let Lori go, which he did and         of Escoffier—in fact, she spent more             The M.F.K. Fisher Awards celebrate
fled. Lori escaped to the safety of the soldier’s car as   time considering the guests and how they        excellence in culinary writing in the cat-
the police were called. The soldier’s choice to stop       would feel at her table. Her food? I'd call     egories of book, print, and internet. Of the
and intervene may have saved Lori’s life.                  it "simple country fare," accompanied           nine winners chosen to receive an award
  Lori continued her musical training and                  by local wines or those vintages brought        in 2018, five were Dames. In addition to
participation in the high school choir which,              in hand by visitors." Her curiosity about       Grand Prize winner Elaine Cicora, they
being in Hawaii, had two programs: American                others in her life, or those new to her life,   were Eagranie Yuh (British Columbia),
standards and a Polynesian show. When the choir            truly made Mary Frances click…I'm cer-          Cat Neville (St. Louis); Jamie Schler
performed its Polynesian repertoire, a pianist was         tain that were she with all of you today,       (Philadelphia and Paris); and Heather
not required. However, as it happened, Lori had            she'd be encouraging the writers."              Arndt Anderson (Portland). Eagranie
studied ukulele and hula as a child and could                Our 2018 winner graciously thanked            Yuh won First Prize, Internet Category
                                                           all the people—Les Dames d'Escoffier            for her story: Vancouver’s Wildly Popular
continued ON PAGE 39                                       International Board, the anonymous              Dinner Series is Helping Syrian Women
                                                           judges, several Cleveland Dames, her            Settle into a New Home.” It is published
                                                           family, her husband, and her readers.           at Saveur online. Susan Slack, Editor.
W I N T E R Q U A RT E R LY 2 019                                                                                                                      13
CONCURRENT SESSIONS

                                                                                         Up Your Communications
                                                                                         Game with Appreciative Inquiry
Oysters Are a                                                                            By Marie Kelley (San Diego)
Reason for a Party!                                                                       “At the end of the day people won't remember what you
                                                                                         said or what you did, they will remember how you made
By Dorothy Colby                                                                         them feel.” Maya Angelou..."
(Hawaii)                                                                                  Back by popular demand, Anne Marie
                                                                                         Smoke challenged Conference partici-
 Oyster farmers
                                                                                         pants to ask themselves how they would
Lissa James Monberg,                        raw oysters. Lissa noted that she did        deal with conflict in a relationship? How
marketing Director of                       not eat raw oysters growing up, and          do I give and receive feedback? How
Hama Hama Oysters,                          her father may not have eaten a raw          can I better communicate for effective,
and Shina Wysocki,                          oyster to this day. In the 1970s, Hama       productive results?
vice president of                           Hama opened a retail store to sell their
Chelsea Farms, shared their history         excess products. After noticing the "car      Feedback is a difficult conversation. People want to be
and passion for the oysters of Wash-        shuckers"—people buying, shucking,           recognized for what they do well. It's important to rec-
ington. Along with moderator Renee          and eating the raw oysters in the park-      ognize our own gifts as well as the gifts of others. Most
Erickson, Chef/Owner of Sea Crea-           ing lot—they put up tents and called it      of the time people give you feedback, it’s because it has
tures Restaurants, they highlighted         a restaurant. In 2014, they opened the       to do with them. Anne Marie shared Three Essential
what makes this region so unique and        Oyster Saloon restaurant to showcase         Elements of Feedback:
spectacular for oyster farming. Renee       their oysters to the community.              1. TRUST
opened the session by declaring,              Growing up, Shina noticed there              Lay a foundation of trust, honesty, building rapport,
"Oysters are a reason for a party!"         was more of an oyster culture in other       respect, smiling, compliments, apology, and showing
 Lissa's fifth generation family oyster     locations than in her own community.         an interest. When receiving feedback, establish equality
farm was built on hard work and clean       To reestablish the connection between        and mutual interest, obtain as much information as
water. Started as a timber company          their oysters and the community, they        possible, and don't be defensive or place blame. When
in the 1890s, Hama Hama is now              opened the Chelsea Farms Oyster Bar.         giving feedback say, "I thought you did this well. I
a family-owned sustainable tree and         "When people eat something, they             think you can do this better." Don't presume—ask. Fo-
oyster farm. They manage both sides of      become more connected to it," Shina          cus on what's working. Leave "buts" behind (negativ-
the tideline, ensuring the health of the    says. "Oysters are at the forefront          ity), and use "and" instead as part of the solution.
upstream water source for the oysters.      of knowing where your food comes
Lissa summed it up, "The oyster is          from...they are traceable to time and        2. ACTIVE LISTENING
an honest creature, it will tell us if we   place. Restaurants can put the names          Listen to understand. Don’t react; hold your reply.
are doing a bad job." Hama Hama             of farms on their menus because as           Body language controls emotions. It's “not about me"
grows two varieties at their home           farmers, we were already labeling our        equals “focus on the speaker.” To legitimize, say "I hear
farm: beach-grown Hama Hamas and            oysters this way."                           you." Summarize by saying, "Let me be sure I heard
tumble-farmed Blue Pools.                     Of course the highlight of an oyster       what you said."
 Shina's parents started sustainable        class is the oyster tasting! Dames           3. POSITIVE REINFORCEMENT
shellfish farming as Chelsea Farms in       sampled the Olympia, Hama Hama,                Apply the Principals of Appreciative Inquiry. Ap-
1987, initially focusing on geoduck         Blue Pool, and Chelsea Gem. One by           preciative Inquiry (AI) is an elegant way to minimize
diving. Her father, John Lentz, in-         one, the oysters were savored and their      complexity by moving away from problem solving
vented the tide tumbling rack system,       flavors pondered. As with wine tasting,      and steering toward achieving a vision. It is a “change
whereby the bags of oysters move by         it is important to consider the many         management” tool for discovery with a focus on the
themselves with the tide. Prior to this     sensory aspects of the oyster. First look    positive. Three Principles of Appreciative Inquiry are:
invention, Shina's mother Linda Lentz       at the oyster's appearance to judge its        1. When you inquire, you intervene, frame the situa-
was the one to do the heavy labor of        size, shape, shell's cup depth, and shell    tion, guide the conversation. Set a vision/goal.
tumbling them by hand. This helped          surface. Don't swallow your oyster              2. Positive thoughts guide positive progress. Think
keep the family in business and the         whole, chew it to savor the different        about the best possible outcomes. Positivity breeds
invention has helped the entire oyster      flavors of the entire animal. What is        positivity. "By praising good in people and ignoring the
industry as well. Shina, along with         the intensity of the brininess, and is       bad, the good is reinforce, and the bad withers away."
her brother Kyle Lentz, carry on their      it brief or lingering? What flavors do         3. People have assets and strengths that can be lever-
parents' vision of sustainable farming      you detect? Are they earthy, mineral,        aged and encouraged. Legitimize people by focusing
and growing and reinvigorating the          buttery, or sweet? And finally, is the       on their assets. What's your vision? Emphasize a shared
endangered native Olympia Oyster.           texture firm, chewy, crunchy, or soft?       vision and goals.
Their attention and care for the water        To fully enjoy the taste of raw oysters,     The group engaged in an exercise that presented
allows them to grow their Chelsea           Lissa, Shina, and Renee shared these         real life situations with creative solutions for positive
Gem, Bonita, and Olympia Oyster,            final tips (or perhaps, pleas): "Don't       change!
along with clams and geoduck.               douse your oysters in hot sauce, and           Editor’s Note: This popular, educational session was
 It wasn’t long ago that the culinary       please don't drink red wine with your        funded by The Brock Circle.
culture was centered on cooked, not         oysters. Drink anything but!"

14                                                                                                    Les Dames d’Escoffier International
The Impact of Visual Storytelling
By CiCi Williamson                      documentary project chronicles
(Washington, D.C.)                      the rise of women working in
                                        agriculture around the world
  “Advancements in electronics          and gives a powerful voice to the
have put high-quality cameras in        fastest growing demographic in
everyone’s pock-                        agriculture, the female farmer.         Madeline Puckette is an author,         misused category; data easily
ets,” said Hsiao-                       Audra is also the co-executive         designer, sommelier, and entre-          misrepresented.
Ching Chou                              producer of the in-production          preneur “I create greater impact       • Photos. Most powerful to con-
(Seattle), Author,                      documentary film, “Women’s             with visual communication than           textualize human experience,
Chinese Soul Food,                      Work: The Untold Story of              with written language,” she said.        and emotions
and moderator.                          America’s Female Farmers.”             Her Wine Folly blog became             • Time-based Visuals. Show
“The ever-growing                        Audra said, “I believe in visual      known for its educational info-          cause and effect; outline morals
landscape of startups and app de-       storytelling as the impetus for        graphics, writing, and products;         and lessons; incite action.
velopment has democratized our          change, and 91% of consum-             she uses visual storytelling to
ability to infuse graphic design                                               create a brand. " Her book, Wine        Madeline gave steps for making
                                        ers prefer visual contact. People                                             an effective design.
into everything from a text to a        want to connect. The best visual       Folly, The Master Guide, takes a
blog post. But there is no app          stories contain these four ele-        deep dive into wine education us-      1. Determine the real problem
that can easily teach us how to         ments: (1) They entertain; (2)         ing powerful visual tools to help         you’re trying to solve. Know
harness these advancements in a         educate; (3) instill values; and       beginners learn wine quickly."            what the person may or may
meaningful way.”                        (4) proliferate culture.”               “There are five different types          not know and give them the
  To advance our education were          Audra recommends using a              of visual communications to get           basics.
Audra Mulkern, a photogra-              variety of formula shots to tell       your point across. Each type can       2. Define the "who": Find out
pher and writer, and Madeline           your story.                            be used to better express your            who cares about this problem.
Puckette, an award-winning wine                                                message.”                                 Focus in on who your cus-
                                        • Wide – sense of place
blogger known for her educa-                                                   • Maps. Provide place, scale,             tomer is.
                                        • Medium – general-purpose;
tional infographics.                                                             distance, perspective, and           3. Select the best visual commu-
                                           most shots
  The founder of The Female                                                      direction.                              nication method for the job.
Farmer Project™, Audra “took an         • Detail – fill the frame with
                                                                               • Diagrams and Drawings.               4. Define the box: How and
image of a female farmer with              something up close
                                                                                 Simplify information, provide           where will your visual commu-
my phone and realized that pho-         • Portrait –human, bird, any-            focus, prioritize importance,           nication be used? Plan for vari-
to was the most powerful image             thing with character                  and create a hierarchy.                 able conditions. A good rule of
and storytelling tool in agricul-       • Action –move story, show             • Graphs and Data Visualiza-              thumb is to make the design as
ture today.” Her multi-platform            work.                                 tion. Define factual data;              large as possible.

    Changing Lives Through Food                                                    ferent FareStart Kitchens.
                                                                                   These participants receive
                                                                                                                    opened multiple eateries in the
                                                                                                                    South Lake Union that serve
    By Pat Ward                           graders feature after-school             support in housing, food,        as training sites. See how lives
                                          programs, spring/summer                  transportation, counseling,      were changed at www.farestart.
    (Philadelphia)                                                                 recovery, and legal support      org.
                                          camps, and evening cooking
      Leaders in the                      classes. Students take home              even after getting a job.         In 2010, FareStart launched
    march against                         foods they’ve cooked as well as      • Youth Barista Program and          Catalyst Kitchens—a thriv-
    hunger—Dame                           fresh vegetables. Laura shared           Youth Culinary Programs          ing alliance of more than 60
    Molly Han-                            videos of kids arriving at sum-          offer young people a path        organizations across the U.S.
    cock, Laura                           mer camp, walking through the            to success including support     and Canada—working to end
    Dewell, and                           garden with a master gardener,           for housing, counseling, life    joblessness, poverty, and hun-
    Renée Martin—shared how Se-           cooking, and enjoying a meal             skills, paid training stipend,   ger. Renée suggested seeing the
    attle-based nonprofits brought        together. New tastes, flavors,           and high school credit.          map at www.catalystkitchens.
    nutritious food, culinary skills,     and friends—it’s all about food.     • Community & School                 org for locations. If you wish
    job training, and meal sharing        Check out Foodie Empire                  Meals Programs feed people       to start a new program/service
    to its poorest communities.           Videos at www.greenplatespe-             in shelters, hospice care, or    in your area, check out the
      “It disturbed me that few           cial.org.                                educational organizations        Catalyst Consulting section. It
    young people connect where             FareStart, founded in 1992,             365 days a year.                 offers research/evaluation tools
    food comes from and eating            transforms lives by empower-         • Guest Chef Night gives             and proven strategic services—
    it,” says Laura. In 2011, she         ing the homeless and disadvan-           students the opportunity         and more.
    founded Green Plate Special           taged to achieve self-sufficiency        to work with community            To get involved in your com-
    with its mission to inspire and       through life skills, job training,       chefs.                           munity, check out existing
    empower young people to               and employment in the food            And launched in July 2017,          programs. Be a guest chef or
    experience food in new ways,          service industry. Molly Han-         a six-month, first-of-its-kind       speaker. Connect. Volunteer.
    through growing, cooking, and         cock described current core          Foodservice Apprenticeship           Donate. Support. Employ.
    eating together.                      programs:                            Program featuring paid profes-       There’s much to do, but to-
      Its curriculum-based units          • Adult Culinary Program             sional and technical skill train-    gether we can change lives with
    for fourth through eighth                 trains adults in several dif-    ing. Simultaneously, FareStart       food, one person at a time!

W I N T E R Q U A RT E R LY 2 019                                                                                                                      15
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