Glamour and Gilt The old-world charm of The Ritz London still endures in the 21st century - Amazon S3
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The destination U.K. Glamour At afternoon tea, mellow strains of the piano and harp mingle with the golden splendour of The Palm Court at The Ritz London. The spread includes freshly baked scones and Gilt and Cornish clotted cream. The old-world charm of The Ritz London still endures in the 21st century By Prachi Joshi XXXXXXXXXXXX (XXXXXXXXX) XXXXXXXXXXXX (XXXXXXXXX) 86 national Geographic Traveller INDIA | May 2019 may 2019 | national Geographic Traveller INDIA 87
B The destination U.K. London. To me, the hotel was the embodiment of the city itself—luxury, elegance, and a certain Englishness (its French chateau-style architecture notwithstanding). I remember taking time out from traipsing up and down Piccadilly to gawk uckingham Palace, Tower of London, at its signature blue awnings, and the white-gloved doormen in gold-striped penguin tuxedos. Since then, I have travelled Hyde Park, Westminster Abbey— to London several times but my chance to experience The Ritz only came last year. on my first trip to London nearly a Making of an icon In May 1906, Swiss hotelier César Ritz opened The Ritz decade ago, I played the quintessential London eight years after he established the equally glamorous Ritz Paris. The hotel was built in the neoclassical style to resemble a classy Parisian block of flats, over arcades inspired tourist, checking off many of the usual by those of Rue de Rivoli in Paris. It quickly became a symbol of London’s high society, gaining a reputation as one of the attractions. But my must-see list also most prestigious hotels in the world. In the past 100-plus years it has hosted royals, celebrities, and political figures (Winston Churchill, Dwight Eisenhower, and Charles de Gaulle met in had an unusual entry—The Ritz the hotel’s Marie Antoinette Suite to discuss WWII strategies). In 2002, it became the first (and to date the only) hotel to receive a Royal Warrant, which was awarded by His Royal Highness, the Prince of Wales. As a member of the Leading The Ritz London enjoys pride Hotels of the World, The Ritz London’s impeccable pedigree of place in Piccadilly. It lies and iconic status in the hospitality world is unparalleled. right next to Green Park, and a 10-minute walk from Buckingham Palace. Luxury redefined One step through its revolving doors and onto the plush (and appropriately faded) floral-patterned carpet, and you enter a different world. The Belle Époque interiors scream luxury with gold chandeliers, gold-bordered walls, a sweeping red-carpeted staircase flanked by a full-length wall mural depicting a French garden, and bronze sconces casting an From scoring West End tickets to eclectic shopping suggestions, incandescent glow. The many-chandeliered Long Gallery is Head Hall Porter Michael De Cozar is your Man Friday at the adorned with immense bouquets of the fragrant Ritz rose, a Ritz London. unique breed of rose created exclusively for the property. I take the lift—hand-painted with Regency-era women—to the buffet pulls out all the stops—tables heave with breads my fourth-floor suite. Each of the 112 rooms and 24 suites is and viennoiserie, juices, and cereals, and of course there’s done up in one of four signature colour schemes: salmon pink, the à la carte English breakfast with eggs, sausage, bacon, rose pink, butter yellow, and powder blue. Mine is decked mushrooms, and grilled tomato. out in salmon pink and Louis XVI-style décor with antique The space transforms into a Michelin-starred restaurant for furnishing, gold crown mouldings, cascading jacquard and dinner, helmed by Executive Chef John Williams (MBE) who damask silk drapes, and a marble-topped fireplace. My gives British ingredients a distinctive French flair. The menu favourite bit is the vintage cream-coloured vanity table with changes seasonally but you can expect dishes like langoustine a gilt-edged three-sided mirror, and a pink-upholstered à la nage (in a savoury broth) and Bresse-style duck (poached round pouffe stool. Another highlight is the gleaming marble and roasted so you get juicy meat and crackling brown skin). bathroom with its deep bathtub, Asprey bath products, and Afternoon Tea at the Ritz is a London institution, served in luxuriously thick towels and bathrobes inscribed with the deep the glittering many-mirrored Palm Court decorated with Photo Courtesy: The Ritz London (building & man) Previous spread: Imagedoc/Alamy/indiapicture blue Ritz lion. chandeliers, gilt trellises, and floral drapes. Penguin-suited butlers flit about bringing you tier stands of crust-less finger Classic fare sandwiches, airy pastries, and warm scones with Cornish The Ritz Restaurant is possibly one of the most decadent clotted cream and jam. Choose from a selection of 18 loose- dining rooms I have eaten in. Marble columns line the wall, leaf teas curated by a certified Tea Sommelier, as the resident gilded neoclassical statues abound, floor-to-ceiling windows pianist serenades you (he played a little Kal Ho Na Ho ditty for XXXXXXXXXXXX (XXXXXXXXX) overlook the neighbouring Green Park, and a mirrored wall my benefit). adds to the feeling of light and space. I look up and my jaw Apart from this, there’s the Rivoli Bar, an intimate Art Deco drops at the sight of the gold chandeliers and the gilded cocktail lounge, and The Ritz Club, an underground casino bronze garland circling the ceiling that’s painted with a pale in a dazzling setting. If you’re a cigar aficionado, head to Ritz blue sky and plump white clouds. Breakfast is served on London Cigars, the only five-star indoor sampling lounge cerulean crockery accompanied by proper silverware, and and cigar shop in Central London that opened just last year. 88 national Geographic Traveller INDIA | May 2019 may 2019 | national Geographic Traveller INDIA 89
The destination The hotel retains its old-world aura with a strict dress code and jeans and sneakers are not allowed in the public areas and restaurants. I dine at the Ritz Restaurant one last time surrounded by gentlemen in jackets and ties (as is required), and ladies togged up in their finest dresses and jewellery (I’m glad I decided to throw on a string of pearls before heading down to dinner). The lighting is low, the conversation is at a gentle murmur, and I see several special occasion celebrations and a couple of dinner dates. It’s no surprise that the final scenes of the acclaimed British period drama Downton Abbey was filmed at The Ritz with the cast all dressed up in 1920s glamour. Yes, The Ritz London is unabashedly old school, but in an ever-changing world, there’s a case to be made for traditions (and nostalgia). Essentials The Ritz London is at the heart of London, at 150 Piccadilly. The hotel lies 25 km/40 min from Heathrow Airport The Michelin-starred Ritz Restaurant gives a modern spin to classic (theritzlondon.com; doubles from £425/ `38,000). French cuisine. R eta il T h er a py Alan Spedding/Moment Open/getty images (food), Luis Davilla/agefotostock/dinodia photo library (shop) Bespoke shirts by the 130-year-old Turnbull & Asser have dressed the likes of Sean Connery and Prince Charles. Michael De Cozar, Head Hall Porter has British institution for more than 300 it, stock up on ties, collars, pocket been with Ritz London for 45 years and years. Shop for teas, marmalades, squares, and other accessories; 71-72, is a concierge par excellence. Here he condiments, cakes, biscuits, and more, Jermyn St; turnbullandasser.co.uk offers his recommendations on the best all of which are made exclusively for Berry Brothers & Rudd is Britain’s shopping spots near the hotel. All stores the store; 181 Piccadilly; fortnumand- oldest wine merchant with an are royal warrant holders, a mark of mason.com unbeatable choice of wine and spirits. De recognition for shops that supply to HM Turnbull & Asser is the place to get Cozar recommends a bottle of Château The Queen and other royal households. a bespoke shirt made, even Prince Haut-Brion, a perfect gift to bring back Fortnum & Mason has been a Charles swears by it. While you’re at home; 3 St. James’s St; bbr.com 90 national Geographic Traveller INDIA | May 2019
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