Decker Dispatch - Back Country Horsemen of Montana
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www.bchmt.org/wp/ The Newsletter of the Back Country Horsemen of Montana - 945 Members June 2021 Decker Dispatch Bandits of the Back Country By Arnold D. “Smoke” Elser, Missoula Back Country Horsemen Leave No Trace of your passing is ning ahead. Traveling through today’s a very old concept and practice dating back country dictates a special behav- back hundreds of years. Explorers, Na- ior, a mind set that this will take you and tive Americans and trappers, such as Jim your animals and move them through this Bridger, all practiced the art of Leave No country, taking only memories, pictures Trace in their passing. Their very surviv- and peace of mind and leaving no trace of al frequently depended on this. Leaving your passing, We must educate ourselves Photo by Kari Schiffman, Bitter Root BCH clues that they were in the area, such as and develop special practices that will al- campfires (fire rings), scarred trees, heav- low us to be the trappers, explorers and OUR PURPOSES ily used campsites and even tracks could Native Americans of today. • To perpetuate the common mean their very lives were in danger if Through many years of wilderness sense use and enjoyment of horses found by less friendly intruders. and back country camping and packing in America’s back country, roadless back country and wilderness areas. Traveling through the wilderness with mules and horses, I have found some • To work to ensure that public areas and back country took a very spe- equipment that helps leave no trace on lands remain open to recreational cialized ability and a keen sense of your the landscape. The use of lighter weight stock use. surroundings and how to leave them so equipment and materials, which have • To assist the various govern- that there was no trace. This concept has been developed in recent years, such as ment and private agencies in their come of age again in our back country, aluminum stoves and pack boxes, lighter maintenance and management of wilderness areas and wild lands. Today’s weight fabrics for tents, and some de- said resource. explorers, campers, fishermen, hunters hydrated foods, etc. have allowed me to • To educate, encourage and so- and horsemen must also revive and prac- use fewer animals and, therefore, reduce licit active participation by the gen- tice with diligence the age old art of Leave the pack animal wear and tear on the eral public in the wise and sustaining No Trace. Our wild lands are getting more ground. Because of the use of these kinds use of the back country resource by pressure by a more diverse population of equipment, you do not have to reduce horses and people commensurate who have little or no experience in the art all of the comforts that are allowed when with our heritage. of Leaving No Trace. you use pack animals in the back coun- • To foster and encourage for- Traveling with one or more thou- try. Planning is still a major prerequisite mation of new state Back Country sand pound backpackers, such as horses to any trip going into the back country Horsemen organizations. or mules, requires even more skill and with stock. It is a good practice to pack all • To seek out opportunities to training in minimum impact to the land stock with their optimum load, not max- enhance existing areas of recre- and leaving no trace. It requires special- imum and not minimum, but their opti- ation for stock users. ized training and maybe even special mum load carrying capacity. This is 1/5th equipment. Above all, it requires plan- of the animal’s weight, a formula that is [continued inside] Decker Dispatch 1
BCHMT Contacts Bandits of the Back Country Chair By Arnold D. “Smoke” Elser, Missoula Back Country Horsemen Sherri Lionberger [continued from front page] 208.691.6218 chair@bchmt.org based on information from the Manual of and high line areas. Of course, I firmly believe Vice-Chair Pack Transportation by Mr. H. W. Daly, Chief that’s one of the reasons that a pointed toe Wade Murphy 406.431.1717 Packer for the U.S. Army in the early 1900’s. cowboy boot was developed! It works great wadeandlonnie@hotmail.com This manual states that a pack animal could for kicking the manure and scattering it out. Treasurer travel twenty-five miles per day year round, Once while I was practicing this technique, Matt Pederson with his optimum load, if fed, watered and I remember kicking a fairly large clump and 406.490.7478 treasurer@bchmt.org cared for properly. This is a practice that I fol- hearing it make a funny “splat” sound against Secretary low and it has reduced my number of stock, as one of my more sophisticated elderly clients! Keni Hopkins well as made me develop, find, and purchase With a red face, I apologized, but I have been 406.253.4673 mtladyhop@gmail.com specialized equipment for my horse packing much more careful of my aim since! Scat- National Directors trips into the wilderness. tered manure returns to the soil much fast- John Chepulis 406.581.6507 One of the most important things that er and leaves a campsite much cleaner. As barcdiamond@gmail.com everyone must do when entering the wil- you mount your horse and leave a campsite Mark Himmel 406.771.8252 derness or the back country with stock, is to with your pack stock it is always a good idea markahimmel@gmail.com know the land, study trail conditions, camp- to look back and ask yourself, “Is this how I Brad Pollman (Alt) 406.546.6491 bpollman20@aol.com site areas and, of course, collect all the infor- would like to see this campsite next year?” BCHA Vice Chairman mation possible from previous users, govern- Keeping some of the above basic ideas Mark Himmel 406.771.8252 ment agencies and others who may know the and practices in mind, each individual horse- markahimmel@gmail.com country well. A poor campsite on wet ground, man must look at his own equipment, stock Advisory Rich Carl 406.899.5248 near the lake shore or the stream bank, is al- and practices and adjust them according to btr@3rivers.net ways a fatal stockman’s mistake. These lands the country he is planning to visit. We need to Education heal, but usually do not heal quickly and al- be constantly on the lookout for better ways Kathy Hundley 406.363.8230 ways heal with evidence of your passing, to protect our wilderness and back country montanakath@yahoo.com scars that may last for many years. Drier resources, and we must develop the right Expansion/Membership Brad Pollman 406.546.6491 campsites and carefully selected trails al- mind set to Leave No Trace of our passing. bpollman20@aol.com ways lead to a better outcome in Leaving No Several years ago while traveling over one Horse Safety Trace on our precious back country. Careful- of the higher passes in the Bob Marshall and Smoke Elser 406.549.2820 telser2820@aol.com ly selecting the site to hold your stock over- coming down a series of steep switchbacks, Issues night is vital. Selecting a site that has grass looking out over many thousands of acres of Chuck Miller 406.961.5453 that horses will eat, and by turning your pristine wilderness, I overheard a guest ner- circlemr@cybernet1.com stock loose as much as possible, away from vously talking to his steed. “Now easy, now Membership List (BCHA) your campsite, the main trail, running water, watch what you’re doing, now don’t put your Nancy Pollman 406.546.6492 npollman20@aol.com and any major attraction, will allow your an- foot too close to the edge.” Coming to a sharp Membership List (BCHMT) imals to utilize the landscape very much like switchback, his horse stopped and surveyed Nancy Pollman 406.546.6492 elk and deer. Pre-training at home is a must. the horizon before turning sharply and con- npollman20@aol.com Determine your ring leaders among your an- tinuing down the trail. I heard my guest say, MOUs Mark Himmel 406.771.8252 imals, and learn to picket or secure those an- “You scenery loving son of a gun, get back on markahimmel@gmail.com imals and allow the rest to roam free. This is the trail!” Later that night as we sat around Newsletter Editor an excellent practice. Of course, when in the the campfire, he remarked, “That was a great Deborah Schatz 406.314.1084 back country always use tree saver straps adventure and a day’s experience that I will deborah.bcha@gmail.com and high lines to secure your animals for never forget.” The next morning while leav- Public Relations Scott Kiser 406.260.8398 long periods of time. They must be trained to ing camp, he noticed my packer carefully scottkiser.mt@gmail.com this practice, as well, prior to heading to the cleaning up the campsite and remarked that Travel Plan mountains. Here again, select your site care- it is right that we not leave tracks across this Mack Long 406.644.7889 alpenglowranch.mack@gmail.com fully. It should not be too near (100 to 200 beautiful country. Volunteer Hours Reporting feet) trails, water, campsite locations, or soft Today’s back country users, whether with John Chepulis 406.581.6507 ground. When leaving a back country camp stock or hiking, must practice to be “bandits”, barcdiamond@gmail.com you must be sure to clean up after yourself stealing the wilderness experience and plea- Webmaster (such as fire rings, fire wood, human waste, sure, and leave no trace. If we are bandits, Dan Marsh 406.587.7578 webmaster@bchmt.org and any camp construction). You must also then we must leave no trace or clue of our Youth Program clean up after your “thousand pound back passing, leaving the land in all its beauty the Greg Schatz 406.261.5450 packers” (your stock). Clean up any picketed way it has been for centuries. gregschatzbuilder@gmail.com 2 Decker Dispatch
Letter from the Chair By Sherri Lionberger, Last Chance Back Country Horsemen Chair, BCH Montana I would first like to thank the board of officers that has our members. This past winter’s served with me this last year through these interesting/try- wind events likely played havoc with ing times. I very much appreciate their consistent commu- many trails; our help clearing them nication via phone and email. I’m also very happy to serve is always appreciated by the public with them all again for another year and looking forward to who uses them. resuming our in-person meetings starting this month in Deer We have a committee working Lodge. Congratulations also to our re-elected National Di- on a gathering in August at Monture rector (John Chepulis) and alternate (Brad Pollman). They Ranger Station near Ovando. While our Deer Lodge meet- and Mark Himmel do a tremendous job representing Mon- ing in May is always open to members, this gathering is for tana at the National level, and many of their efforts go un- everyone – not just directors, and I hope to see many of you seen by us. Thank you to all. there. Stay tuned for more information on that. At our May meeting I hope to hear that chapters are able Happy trails. to get work projects lined out with the Forest Service for this coming season. Last summer was slow for a number of chapters and getting people back to doing what we do best Sherri – clearing trails, packing crews/gear is needed to re-engage Contact Sherri at chair@bchmt.org A Girl and a Horse By Casey Drishinski, East Slope Back Country Horsemen This morning, three of our hors- looking to start out in 4-H. But as my the opportunity to learn some of life’s es were grazing in the yard. Stevi, our husband saddled her and stepped up most valuable lessons – patience, re- 15-month old, squealed with delight on her for the first time in many years, sponsibility, confidence, and dedication when she saw them out the window and it was clear she was not the beginner – from a horse. it got me thinking. horse her 22 years might suggest. When When my husband’s daughter we got home, he called Gabby and told – now 24 – was just a toddler, they her that he didn’t think Peanut was a brought home a chestnut weanling filly. good fit for a kid horse. “Well,” Gabby Gabby named her Peanut, prescient- said, “I guess she better come live here.” ly foretelling, as only children can, the So my husband loaded her up and drove serious allergy – to the nut, not the her to her new home, and back to her horse - she would develop in the com- first rider. When Gabby called the oth- ing years. When Gabby was eight years er day, she was riding Peanut, moving old, Peanut became her first 4-H horse. some new pairs out to pasture. As Gabby grew, Peanut carried her on Several weeks ago, we brought her first pack trip into the Bob Marshall. home a bay filly named Rose. Every- When Peanut had a colt named Twister, one was excited for a new baby on the he became the first horse Gabby got to farm, especially Stevi. As a new mom, break and train. sudden bursts of overwhelming emo- A few years back, Gabby was away tion prompted by thoughts of my sweet at college and Peanut stepped over little girl growing up so fast are not un- a barbed wire fence, rubbing a nasty common. But then I thought of Peanut wound on the inside of her back leg. I and Gabby and realized that this new Stevi and Peanut think most folks might have looked at horse is literally going to see my child a serious injury like that on an older transform from barely walking baby to horse and decided that was the end of grown up woman out on her own. Well, the story for poor Peanut. But someone anyway. knew that Peanut had more life to live Every once in a while I lament living and my husband patiently nursed her so far from town, and from all the fun back to health. “city” things that I grew up with – the Gabby is now teaching agricultural zoo, the roller rink, the amusement park education in Grass Range. She and her - that Stevi is going to miss out on. But boyfriend have a little place with a few those thoughts don’t last long. When I cows and are making a real go of things. look out the window to see the horses A few months ago, Gabby thought she grazing in the yard, I am filled with pure might sell Peanut to another young girl gratitude that my child is going to have Gabby and Peanut Decker Dispatch 3
Horsemen Safety Refresher, April 25, 2021 By Judy Fossum, Judith Basin Back Country Horsemen The JBBCH chapter of Lewistown eral over-the-saddle panniers systems. area conducted a Horsemen Safety Her reasons for using this method are Workshop on April 25, 2021, at the Pa- less impact on the environment, con- vilion at the Fergus County Fairgrounds centrate on safety, cost of equipment, in Lewistown. We covered the syllabus and more time to enjoy the environ- for the Horse Safety Program whose ment. Candy stressed she practices purpose is to help members be safe in safety first by conditioning the horse or the backcountry with their horses or mule mentally and physically. She dis- mules. We had about 25 members at cussed how much weight an animal can the workshop ranging in age from our carry based on their body weight, how youngest, teenager Quincy Workman, to balance the weight on each side, and to active members 80 plus. how to safely tie the load down. She also The first item was to have all mem- stressed practicing ponying the pack bers demonstrate their proficiency in animal before the start of each trip. safely loading and unloading a horse After lunch we played in the pavilion in a trailer. We practiced staying in the on our horses with various obstacles, safety zone, loading them without them some simulating what we experience lunging uncontrollably into the trailer, on our trips into the wilderness, wheth- how to properly tie, and how to unload er on a trail work detail or for a trail also staying in the safety zone. Gregg ride. We had gates to open, a wooden Morse, Henry Gottardi and Brad Fogle bridge to cross, tarps to cross (probably checked us off on each successful com- won’t find many of those in the wilder- pletion. ness but they are noisy and scary), a pile Following that was a question and of poles like fallen down trees, narrow answer session during which Sharon places to back through and/or in which Gottardi presented us with situations to turn around. And don’t forget to pick and allowed members to relate their up the mail out of the mailbox! experiences, both positive and nega- Although our Back Country Horse- tive, and to share tips we’ve learned men of Montana Horse Safety cards are through experiences. good for three years, we decided as a Candy Phillips gave a demonstra- chapter to offer this workshop every tion on Interactive Educational Packing spring in order to include any new mem- which she uses for day trips and over- bers, and as a refresher for the rest of night stays. She calls it “Pack it Light, us. It is an opportunity to get together Pack it Easy.” (Non-Traditional Equine with our horses to play, eat and laugh. Packing 101) She demonstrated sev- The Charlie Russell Back Country Horsemen By Rich Carl, Charlie Russell Back Country Horsemen The Charlie Russell Back Country The $15,687 grant enabled us to public participation in wise and sus- Horsemen are a fortunate bunch. We hire contractors to do more work in a taining use of horses and use by people have hundreds of miles of trails through week than we could over the course of commensurate with our heritage and majestic mountains and scenic land- several years. In 2019 we maintained the back country resource. scapes to enjoy from our saddles. and cleared 80 miles of trails. The grant The grant enables us to help achieve But, as President Kennedy once will be used for trail maintenance, im- all our stated goals. said, “For those to whom much is given, provements to trails and trail recon- We conduct monthly meeting to in- much is required.” struction. form and educate our members. Amid From the very beginning, our group, Included in our efforts is the remov- the COVID-19 pandemic, meetings be- established in 1985 and made up of 19 al of downfall and leaning trees. We do came more challenging and were con- families and 11 singles, has been ready, all aspects of trail maintenance from ducted via ZOOM, willing and able to give back through clearing to erosion control. We look forward to getting back to- trail maintenance projects. Our mission statement states: The gether in person and on horseback soon While we have never shied away purpose of this organization shall be (1) and we will be back out there clearing from clearing trails, a grant for work to perpetuate the commonsense use trails. on the CDT trail system from the Rec- and enjoyment of horses in the back Charlie Russell Back Country reational Trails Program (RTP) through country/wilderness and (2) to assist the Horsemen are also proud of Mark Him- Montana Fish, Wildlife & Parks has various government agencies in their mel, BCHA’s new Vice Chairman. Great made our chore easier over the past maintenance of said resources and (3) job, Mark. three years. to educate, encourage and solicit active 4 Decker Dispatch
National Director’s Column By John Chepulis (Beartooth BCH) barcdiamond@gmail.com National Director, BCH Montana Back Country Horsemen of • Posting on Facebook America Board Members met for the • Better communication second time April 25-28, via Zoom, Wednesday, April 28th, Scott Walker, Chairman of Back to conduct its Annual Board Meet- Country Horsemen of British Columbia, gave a very interest- ing. It was supposed to be held in ing presentation about BCHBC, which was founded in 1989. person at Kansas City, MO, but was They have 21 chapters and 800 members at present. Look canceled for the second time because of the COVID pandem- them up at www.bchorsemen.org. ic. Hopefully we can meet in person again at the 2022 Con- Next was a discussion by past BCHA chairmen address- vention which will be held April 10-13, 2022, in Kansas City, ing the history of BCHA during their time in office. This dis- MO. cussion was very entertaining and educational. Sunday afternoon, April 25th, all National Directors The Lifetime Achievement Award was presented to were asked to participate in a call to get familiar with Zoom Mike McGlenn, past BCHA chairman from Washington, and and then to review our responsibilities and governance pol- the Double Diamond Award was presented to BCH of Virgin- icy. We then reviewed our meeting documents which were ia, Golden Horseshoe Chapter. available on the new BCHA shared Google Drive, and be- The 2021 – 2022 Budget Proposal was approved, then came familiar with them. After a question and answer period final nominations and elections. Elected were: we were excused for the day. Chairman-----------------Sherry Copeland, MO Monday, April 26th, the BCHA meeting officially began Vice Chairman-----------Mark Himmel, MT with the agenda being presented, a memorial to our depart- Treasurer-----------------Latifia Rodriguez, CO ed members, the 2020 National Board Meeting minutes, ex- EC Non-Director--------Brad Pollman, MT ecutive committee reports, treasurer report, then on to com- EC Director--------------Jim Allen, SD mittee reports which took up the better part of the day. All Congratulations to all. John committee reports are posted to the BCHA Shared Drive on Google. New Business discussed on Monday: • Governance Policy changes to change the name of the Public Liaison Committee to Dana P. Damron the Partnership Committee and to refine its shares his makeup and operation. expertise and • Investment Policy Statement, investing the insights on riding Legacy Fund with Stifel. on some of the • 2021 – 2022 proposed budget. most scenic trails • No resolutions. in the world. The • Voting will take place on Wednesday. There was no unfinished business. Parks’ vast trail Tuesday, April 27th began with Essential Knowl- systems were edge for a Successful Back Country Horsemen. After- created with horse words there was a director round table discussion by riders in mind. regions consisting of: This guidebook • Southwest, (AR, AL, FL, GA, KY, NC, SC, TN, is designed VA), for novice and • Northeast (IA, IL, IN, KS, MI, NM, MO, NY, experienced WI), horseback trail • Rockies (CO, MT, ND, NM, SD, UT, WY), riders alike; • Far West (AK, AZ, CA, ID, NV, OR, WA) with detailed I attended all, and participated in the Rockies region discussion. These are just some of the items information about discussed. the best trails for • E-bikes horses, trailhead • Mountain bikes parking, and tips • What can BCHA do for me for a safe and • What can you do for BCHA Available for $15.95 from enjoyable ride for • Be good collaborators with other user groups www.farcountrypress.com both horse and • Attending work days in different States rider. • Major changes this past year Order yours today! • If you have questions, who do you call? Decker Dispatch 5
Save the Date August 19-22, 2021 Please join us for the BCHMT Monture Gathering With the past two conventions cancelled due to Covid, we have missed you. The BCHMT officers and state directors invite you to join us at the Monture trailhead. Everyone is welcome and can join us for any part of the weekend that they are able. Thursday: arrive after noon and ride Friday: ride, socialize around the campfire Saturday: ride, dinner and campfire The Monture Guard Station is about 8 miles north of Highway 200 near Ovando, MT. It is a trailhead for the south end of the Bob Marshall Wilderness Complex. We have permission to use the guard station and there is a very nice public trailhead. The public trailhead has several corrals as well as feed bunks and hitchrails. There are several trails in the area for all riding abilities. We are still in the planning process. Wade Murphy will teach a half-day horse train- ing clinic. He can have up to 10 riders so if you would like to ride in his clinic please let him know, 406.431.1717, wadeandlonnie@hotmail.com. Everyone is welcome to watch if they are interested. We will also have a packing demonstration. If you have a talent that you would like to demonstrate please let Greg Schatz know, 406.261.5450, gregschatzbuilder@gmail.com, and we’ll see if we can get you in the schedule. Dinner Saturday evening will be $10. All other meals are on your own. Please fill out the registration form found on the BCHMT website and send your registration and $10 to us before August 5, 2021. Watch bchmt.org for more details. 6 Decker Dispatch
Devils Creek By Jim Thramer, Back Country Horsemen of the Flathead With the effects of an unknown The original road to the trailhead until October when trail use declined virus circulating the country last year, was a single lane that dead ended and and started the dirt work by remov- we were unsure if we could accomplish was difficult, if not impossible, to turn ing tree stumps, bringing in a dozer to any projects. But, as the year went on, it a six-horse or living quarters trailer rough-in the loop and an excavator to was determined that with proper social around or allow the larger trailer to park load dump trucks with debris. The win- distancing we were able to complete a overnight. Also adding to the problem ter weather finally put a stop to finish- major trailhead improvement on the were hikers who would park in front of ing till spring when we will be adding Middle Fork of the Flathead River. the hitch rails or in the turnaround area. gravel as needed, seeding with grass- The trailhead is along Highway 2, This made it extremely hard to navigate es, installing parking signs and getting which winds between the scenic south- with a horse trailer. signed off with the Forest Service. ern border of Glacier National Park and Our plan was to make a pull- We have one more trailhead im- the Great Bear Wilderness. The trail- through road to loop back and allow provement on the South Fork of the head is called Devils Creek and access- trailer parking overnight, as well as a Flathead this summer on Logan/Baptist es the Great Bear Wilderness, which signed area for hiker parking. trailhead with a new location to be able is part of the Bob Marshall Wilderness One of our members in the building to access both trails from one trailhead complex. Our chapter was able to win trades had some equipment contrac- with a loop road to be better for the big- a RAC grant the year before to help im- tors willing to help with the dirt work ger trailers. prove several trailheads in the area. for a low cost for the BCHF. We waited Nonprofit Bookkeeping [part three] By Carey Monson, Treasurer, NorthWest Montana Back Country Horsemen The youth program Use accounting software • Accept donations committee would like designed for nonprofits • Connect donation apps One of the best decisions you can • Sync with your bank to thank the following make to help the committees is invest- • Customize reports ing in a nonprofit-specific accounting • Track grants for their generous software solution. This is an inexpensive solution with donations. Bookkeeping for nonprofits differs all the features needed to get up and from that of for-profit organizations; running; however, you may find it limit- so why would you want to use the same ing as the organization begins expand- software for each of them? The unique ing. needs of nonprofits require a special- Intuit QuickBooks makes it easy ized set of tools from accounting soft- to automate custom reports for your ware. organization. This helps your organiza- Small organizations who are just tion facilitate the transfer of effective getting started may be able to get away internal reports between departments. with a general accounting software Specifically, custom reports keep you solution. However, they will likely out- on track with your regular meetings Shannon Friex grow it incredibly quickly and start with your development department. looking for a new software investment. Intuit QuickBooks is a great bookkeep- The best bookkeeping software for ing software for nonprofits who are just nonprofits will come with key features getting their start. Because it is a small such as: solution, many organizations choose • FASB-ready reporting tem- to use this while finding their footing. plates Keep in mind that you will probably • Internal controls to protect fi- outgrow this solution quickly and need nancial data to invest in a new solution soon. • Multi-year budget storage Conclusion • Human resources and payroll Nonprofits are unique. Therefore, functions (not needed for BCH). bookkeeping for nonprofits is also Intuit QuickBooks unique. Taking steps like educating QuickBooks has been trusted by yourself about the subject and invest- for-profit organizations for years. The ing in effective software will help your comprehensive solution has expand- BCH chapter become more and more Beartooth ed to include a nonprofit solution. This effective. Back Country Horsemen software allows you to: Decker Dispatch 7
Mustang Chronicles: Training Chica (part two) By Sandra O’Brien, Bitter Root Back Country Horsemen Sometimes, looking at my mus- tang Chica with the herd of domestic horses we have, other than a yearling mustang who I don’t believe has spent much time, if any, in the wild, I imag- ine she is the same as the rest of her adoptive herd. But she isn’t. She came with a different language. It’s like she speaks Spanish Basque and the rest of the herd a kind of Standard English. A very wild dash of something in a group of horses who accept me hanging over their backs, or lifting a back leg without donning a halter or pulling a tail to help stretch a back. She came speaking a totally differ- ent language. Some will say a horse is a horse. But when Chica came to live here, she didn’t really seem to want to interact and even now is kind of like that stranger who doesn’t quite fit in and looks awkward when the other horses are close. Like someone who’s moved into the neighborhood and has strange customs. She is shy approach- ing the lowest gelding in the herd for a mutual neck scratching, or tolerating one of the mares, who pushes over to say hello. She appears to be frustrat- ed by some interactions and maybe the small nod she gives to acknowledge the lead gelding isn’t even seen by him. And and hard footed. I had her DNA test- the instructions correctly, but she was maybe she double-barreled the other ed and her top three breeds are, in or- my hero, working diligently at each task mare because she is a domestic dullard der – Peruvian Paso, Rocky Mountain, presented. We trotted over poles and and moved in on the hay when Chica and Mountain Pleasure. Though from over the bridge, over a blue tarp and was clearly claiming it. In her language. a line of gaited horses, she is not gait- then forward and backward through She picked up my dog Baxter when he ed. She moves like water over stones the “L”, side-passed both ways over a didn’t pay attention to her signals. She though, and I can imagine that we will pole and then pivoted both ways in a left no marks or bruises. She simply one day be loping in Montana meadows box. She stood still while I requested a surprised him because he wasn’t pay- and clambering over stony paths in the “hold” and walked completely around ing attention. A reminder that we are Montana Wilderness. her and then she trotted snakelike bound to have moments of miscommu- We are still working on our rela- through the cones to a stop. nication. tionship in movement. Step by step, by What language do we use? A nod, I still have not accomplished getting step, we are exploring tuning our part- a hip, a crouch, and lots of laughter, a trim for my mustang Chica. She is still nership to a finer level. I can ask for a together and separately, acknowledg- somewhat fearful of other people, and circle around me, her wrapped around, ing the differences, and yawns and lip I am not fearless when it comes to her as if in a body hug. We have moved licking and big smiles recognizing our feet; unless they are moving. When she from a walk, to a trot, and now we are sameness and our desire to connect. moves, she is like music. She wears her practicing a canter. She has learned to hooves down when I work her each day come to a call, across the arena. She Sandra O’Brien is a member of Bitter Root in the pebbly sand of the arena, so she will also come over barrels or whatever Back Country Horsemen and served as is not too overgrown, but I know that is in front of her, to arrive at my shoul- its chapter’s treasurer in 2020. She has a deep-rooted love for horses and has been one of these days I will have to brave der. We even competed, she and I. We involved with them for nine years in Alaska’s working on those beautiful, big boned braved the world of technology and and Montana’s wilderness areas. feet. Mustangs in the wild survive be- videoed ourselves to compete at liber- cause of their feet. She is thick boned ty. We didn’t place because I didn’t read 8 Decker Dispatch
Carrying on a Tradition of Volunteering to Preserve Our Wild Places By Henry Glenn, Gallatin Valley Back Country Horsemen It all began in 1864 when many in about 14-16 miles. Hellroaring Cabin, was an early settler to the region and the United States began to realize that built in 1925, sits at 6,650 ft elevation was quite the character and the subject our wild places were worth preserving on Hellroaring Creek about 15 miles of a future article. for future generations. Visionaries of east of Jardine, MT and about four miles Now that we have described the that period could foretell what might north of the YNP line. It is the largest of cabins in slight detail we will tell you happen if there weren’t protections the three cabins and has three rooms. It about work that Gallatin Valley Back implemented. As land was cleared is the only cabin to have a kitchen and Country Horsemen (GVBCH) have for railroads and the settlers that fol- bedroom along with a large living space. done and continue to do to maintain the lowed, the idea that natural resources All cabins are equipped with wood cabins. It all began in September 2010 were not inexhaustible began to ger- stoves for heat and cooking. Hellroar- when Clark Kinney organized a trip to minate. George Perkins Marsh pub- ing Cabin has both a cookstove and a Hellroaring Cabin to oil the cabin and lished a book in 1864 titled MAN AND stove in the living space for heat. replace the tack shed roof. NATURE that spoke directly about the Buffalo Fork Cabin sits in the Buf- In 2011 we went to Slough Creek issue of exploiting and overusing Amer- falo Fork Creek drainage to the east of to rebuild a portion of the trail between ica’s natural resources and extolled the Hellroaring Cabin about a day’s ride and the park line and the cabin that Slough philosophy of “responsible steward- about four miles north of YNP. It sits in a Creek had washed out. The Nine Mile ship” of public lands. Marsh’s words beautiful valley with lush meadows and Pack Train and several volunteers built later helped to spawn the “conserva- timber. This cabin has a loft and two punchins and hauled 81,000 lbs of grav- tion movement,” a period from 1890 to stoves. It is the highest and oldest cabin, el to reestablish the trail. 1920 when numerous Congressional being built in 1913 and sitting at 7,730 In 2013 we made a trip to Buffa- acts aimed at government management ft of elevation. To get from Hellroaring lo Fork and over Bull Creek Divide to and protection of America’s natural re- to Buffalo Fork you have to cross the Slough Creek in early September, clear- sources were passed. divide into Telephone Basin with stun- ing trails and inventorying both cabins. Through his efforts and others at ning views in all directions. Telephone We also made a trip packing in supplies the time came the USDA Forest Service Basin is a very high basin with water to Hellroaring Cabin leaving from YNP in about 1905. In the beginning rangers and grass and is a place for the wildlife and crossing the Hellroaring swinging stayed out in tents and had to provide to escape the heat and bugs of summer bridge over the Yellowstone River. their own food, supplies, horses, and while grazing on the lush grass that is In 2014 GVBCH helped with a big many other necessities. Soon the For- found there. From there you drop down project to replace a sill log that had rot- est Service could see that to properly into Buffalo Fork drainage over a very ted at Buffalo Fork Cabin. We cooked manage the forest there would need abrupt edge and wind your way down for a large crew and finished the work to be “comfortable” accommodations via the many switch backs in the trail. in a week. We also went back a week provided. It took until 1964 for peo- If you arrive late the sun will already be later to clean up and repair the pas- ple to realize that forest management gone from the valley floor. ture fence and the tack shed. In that alone would not protect the very wild Slough Creek Cabin was built in same year we helped pack the Montana and special places. That year congress 1920 and sits at 6,800 ft. It is still fur- FWP’s wolf biologist in to do research passed the Wilderness Act to protect ther east and lies at the south end of and reconnaissance on wolf numbers in exceptionally wild and special places Frenchy’s Meadow, again about a day’s the A-B Wilderness that turned into the in perpetuity. Montana is blessed with ride from Buffalo Fork and four miles trip from hell with a horse accident with several designated Wilderness areas. north of YNP. But to get there from the wolf biologist and her horse. Left us The Absarokee-Beartooth Wilderness, Buffalo Fork Cabin you have to cross a bit shaken but all survived and made a which this article is about, was estab- Bull Creek divide on Lookout Moun- full recovery. lished in 1978. Gallatin Valley Back tain which correctly received its name In 2015 we made two trips. The first Country Horsemen was established because of the stunning views it pro- trip was to Buffalo Fork Cabin to repair in 1985 as a chapter of Back Country vides. Leaving the Buffalo Fork val- the foundation and wood box that a Horsemen of Montana and eventual- ley you have a very steep climb with porcupine had gnawed on. We had an- ly part of Back Country Horsemen of breathtaking views of the valley as you other horse wreck with a pack horse, America. wind your way up to the divide north of but no people or horses were injured, So this story begins with three cab- Lookout Mountain. Then it is off down well maybe a little pride. In September ins built by rangers in the early part of Bull Creek, a heavily forested drainage of 2015 we packed supplies into Slough the 20th Century. These three cabins that has old growth timber and, fre- Creek from YNP via the wagon trail up lie north of Yellowstone National Park quently, lots of blown down timber so Slough Creek. We then went across (YNP) in the Absarokee-Beartooth Wil- bring a good crosscut and know how Bull Creek Divide going west to Buffalo derness area. In those days the cabins to use it. After Bull Creek flows into Fork. What a day that was. We sawed so were located so that a ranger on horse- Slough Creek you are now in Frenchy’s many trees in the old growth timber of back could ride from trailhead to cab- Meadow about five miles north of the Bull Creek that we finally gave up. We in or cabin to cabin in one day, usually Slough Creek Cabin. Frenchy Duret made it to Buffalo Fork Cabin at dark. 10 Decker Dispatch
That day ended with a sore pack horse to clear the trail and tried fishing for forget the experience. They will always from a twig getting under his blanket. a couple of hours but no one caught a have a little bit of the wilderness in Since we had unloaded the freight at fish. In September we went to Hellroar- their heart and it will always remind us the cabin we were able to put his pack ing Creek Cabin to clear trails. We also of those who had the vision and were saddle on an empty pack mule and let wanted to go to Carpenter Lake to fish wise enough to set this beautiful part him go out without a saddle. one day. We headed out and immedi- of God’s creation aside to remain un- In 2016 GVBCH made three trips ately were inundated with down tim- changed for generations to come. with the main event being to replace ber on the trail. We arrived at the lake the south sill log on Hellroaring Cab- about 2pm, too tired to fish and it was in. After making a supply run to stock too windy to cast a fly, so we took a nap up on supplies for the upcoming crew and headed back to the cabin via anoth- that was replacing the log, we dug a er route and only encountered a couple new toilet hole and installed cribbing to downed trees across the trail. keep the varmints from digging under- In 2019 we started the season out neath the toilet. We then skidded in a with a trip to Buffalo Fork and on the new sill log to the cabin. It was 42 feet way in I was sawing a big blow down long and without Lawrence VanDyke’s out of the trail when I got bee stung. mules Clyde and Marvel it would have We were going in to finish chinking the not happened. Lots of hard work this cabin so the varmints could not get in. trip. The second trip was to support the We were up on ladders working on the large crew lead by Dusty Burns of the gable end logs to fill all the holes. We Forest Service. We fed a total of 11 men also repaired the foundation by chink- and women for most of a week. Later ing some small holes with cement we in September we went back to finish had packed in. We also discovered that chinking the foundation with cement. the tack shed had five broken rafters Lawrence and I had packed in sand from from a heavy snow load so we set about a sand bar about five miles from the repairing them. Since we didn’t have a cabin on Hellroaring Creek. jack with us we had to improvise and In August of 2017 three members use poles to jack up the roof and scab of GVBCH left for Buffalo Fork Cab- some old lumber onto the rafters to in. Seems as though a porcupine had hold them until we get back to make a gnawed into the tack shed floor and had proper repair. We also repaired several played havoc with everything inside. broken corral poles and replaced about We were able to put hardware cloth 10 of them. We cleared the trail to Tele- under the boards we used to repair the phone Basin of a lot of blow downs from floor with and keep Mr. Porcupine out. a recent wind storm. On the pack out We also made a trip to Slough Creek we followed a mama grizzly and her two to prepare to rebuild the pasture fence cubs for a couple of miles. The tracks and to put new siding on the tack shed were so fresh that I kept thinking we that the Nine Mile crew had packed in might catch up to them but we did not. In the fall before. early September we packed a trail crew Starting in August of 2018 we into Buffalo Fork and cooked for them were back working on the tack shed at while they cleared trails in the area. We Slough Creek cabin. It has a heavy slid- then packed them over the Bull Creek ing door that is bear proof and it need- Divide and down into Slough Creek. We ed to be removed so we could replace cut 43 trees that day and it rained most the siding on that end. We then rehung of the day. We were all very happy to the door. We did not have the proper see the Slough Creek Cabin as we had tools or supplies to complete this the ridden 14 miles in the rain. It was still year prior. In late August we went to raining when we packed out the next Buffalo Fork to pack supplies and to try day. In addition to the work mentioned to keep a pack rat out of the cabin who above, on every trip you have to clean had gained entrance last winter. What the cabins and cut firewood to fill the a mess we found. It took four of us two wood boxes. They are always left ready hours to clean the cabin to even get in to use for the next group. and think about cooking and sleeping Each person who enters the Absa- in there. We rode up to Hidden Lake rokee-Beartooth Wilderness will never Decker Dispatch 11
NONPROFIT ORG Back Country Horsemen of Montana U.S. POSTAGE 2130 9th Street W. #109 PAID Columbia Falls, MT 59912 BUTTE MT PERMIT NO 593 Back Country Horsemen of Montana State Chapters Beartooth BCH Mile High BCH If you would like to join us, please contact a PO Box 614, Absorakee, MT 59001 PO Box 4434, Butte, MT 59702 chapter in your area. Bitter Root BCH Mission Valley BCH Find more information on our website: PO Box 1083, Hamilton, MT 59840 PO Box 604, Ronan, MT 59864 www.bchmt.org/wp/ Cabinet BCH BCH of Missoula PO Box 949, Libby, MT 59923 PO Box 2121, Missoula, MT 59806 Charlie Russell BCH NorthWest Montana BCH PO Box 3563, Great Falls, MT 59403 PO Box 23, Kalispell, MT 59903 Schedule for chapters’ East Slope BCH Selway-Pintler Wilderness BCH news article submissions PO Box 967, Conrad, MT 59425 PO Box 88, Hamilton, MT 59840 E-mail to: deborah.bcha@gmail.com Winter Issue: articles due January 5th BCH of the Flathead Three Rivers BCH Beartooth, Bitter Root, Cabinet, Mission PO Box 1192, Columbia Falls, MT 59912 PO Box 251, Dillon, MT 59725 Valley, Three Rivers, Upper Clark Fork, Wild Horse Plains, and convention hosting Gallatin Valley BCH Trout Creek BCH chapter. PO Box 3232, Bozeman, MT 59772 PO Box 1435, Trout Creek, MT 59874 Spring Issue: articles due May 5th Upper Clark Fork BCH Charlie Russell, East Slope, Flathead, Judith Basin BCH PO Box 725, Deerlodge, MT 59722 Gallatin, and Judith Basin. PO Box 93, Lewistown, MT 59457 Fall issue: articles due September 5th Last Chance BCH Wild Horse Plains BCH Last Chance, Mile High, Missoula, PO Box 4008, Helena, MT 59604 PO Box 640, Plains, MT 59859 Northwest Montana, Selway-Pintler Wilderness, and Trout Creek. 12 Decker Dispatch
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