2020 UIAA GENERAL ASSEMBLY - A GUIDE TO
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TABLE OF CONTENTS WELCOME 4 2019 Edition published 21 President’s Message 5 2019 Carbon Footprint Report 22 GA PRACTICAL INFORMATION 8 UIAA STRATEGY PROCESS 23 GA 2020: A Guide 8 An Update 23 Voting Procedures 8 UIAA IN 2020 24 Programme Overview 10 GLOBAL MOUNTAIN NETWORK UIAA during Covid-19 24 Agenda 12 UIAA Statement 28 ELECTIONS 16 Impact on UIAA Ice Climbing World Tour 30 President 16 Safety 32 Executive Board 17 Alpine Summer Skills Handbook 34 Management Committee 18 UIAA Annual Awards 36 MEMBER ASSOCIATIONS 20 Membership updates 20 UIAA Commissions 38 ANNUAL REPORT 21 UIAA Office & Communication 42 Credit Cover Image: Rémy Duding - www.remyduding.ch 3 Note: Some information is subject to change and updates will be provided by the UIAA Office.
2020 UIAA General Assembly PRESIDENT’S MESSAGE Address from UIAA President Frits Vrijlandt As I embark on my final weeks as UIAA President, I wanted to share my appreciation for the eight years we have spent together. We, like true mountaineers, have conquered many challenges and have always done so as a team. When I leave the UIAA in October it is the people I will miss the most. I’m very sad not to be able to see you all in person to say farewell, but circumstances dictate that holding the GA online is the most sensible and responsible option. My hope is that during one of the first in-person meetings next year that I will have a chance to see as many of you as possible. This digital guide to the General Assembly (and related One of the biggest tasks this year will be electing my supporting documents) are designed to help you best successor. I wish this person all the best in a challenging prepare for the various sessions and meetings. The and deeply rewarding role. With the full support of an international and passionate Executive Board, they will online format will herald a different kind of meeting achieve great things. so absorbing as much information as possible before the GA will help you prepare any questions and make In the meantime and until the GA, here are some informed decisions. reflections on my time with the UIAA. 4 5 AIA ©U
2020 UIAA General Assembly On Covid-19 On Becoming President Challenges This has been one of the biggest challenges we have faced over the In 2012 at the GA in Amsterdam, the choice for President was between myself The role has been demanding and not always easy. The UIAA is an organisation Future past eight years. I feel very blessed to be healthy. Covid-19 has had and another extremely prepared candidate. When it was confirmed that I had with a lot of different responsibilities, projects and visions. As a mountaineer from a severe impact on the world, on our communities and federations, received the most votes I was very happy but also aware of the scale of the task I hope to be able to continue my relationship with the UIAA in some a ‘flat country’ I am used to travelling to go climbing and absorbing different and on our climbing and mountaineering activities. We need to to serve our member federations. My first responsibility, the morning after the capacity. For now it is time for a new leader and for me to take a break. opinions and viewpoints and above all respecting them. There are areas where focus on supporting each other. elections, was to organise the roles in the Executive Board and to be briefed we could have done better. However with the relatively limited funding available I Should they seek my advice or support, I am always available. by our Executive Director on ongoing matters. There have been many changes These are challenging times and circumstances. Many of our over the past eight years, both in the EB and the Office, and I think we now have believe we deliver great value. One of my biggest regrets is the departure of the Thank you to all of our member associations, EB, MC, Commission activities have paused until better times. Climbers and mountaineers a team which has worked better than ever. Italian Alpine Club (CAI) from the UIAA after 85 years as a partner and one of our founding federations. I hope they return. Presidents and members, Office staff, partners, sponsors, athletes and all are flexible and creative people and able to handle challenges. Achievements and Memories delegates for your support over the past eight years. This is shown in the work and response of our Commissions and There have been many fine memories and successes. The return of the DAV Strategic Plan federations. and OAV to the UIAA was a significant moment. I also fondly remember the The UIAA should remain the global voice of climbers and mountaineers The main impact is that currently it is not an option to organise General Assembly in Flagstaff, Arizona (2014) organised by our honorary for sustainability, mountain protection, access, safety and general international gatherings. In a recent statement , we advised our member Bill Putnam who passed away a few months later. Other moments climbing and mountaineering activities. The UIAA Safety Label remains members to enjoy climbing and mountaineering locally as travel which stand out are the UAAA (Union of Asian Alpine Associations) gatherings, See you restrictions due to Covid-19 apply for many countries in the world. recognising Reinhold Messner and Injeong-Lee as Honorary Members, the the highest, global standard and one we should continue to promote in the mountains, We stay regularly updated on the global situation and continue to realisation of the Respect the Mountains projects, the UIAA Mountain Protection and evolve. More than ever, in age of information overload, promoting share knowledge and information with our federations through our Award ceremonies, the adding of new translations of our technical climbing safe and responsible climbing is key. I believe we should continue to communication platforms and Covid-19 portal. Despite the slowdown handbook with The Petzl Foundation, the great support for the development of offer leadership in mountain protection on a global stage, support ice on some of our activities I am confident we will pick things up again ice climbing from the late Han DongSoo, Governor of Cheongsong County and climbing athletes in their Olympic dream, and provide a platform for our with great energy as soon as it is possible. Indeed, a lot of good of Mr Sung KiHak, Chairman of Youngone Corporation, the UIAA Ice Climbing Commissions to deliver their excellent work. The UIAA is as valid and and productive work has not halted. The UIAA has been agile in World Cup events in China, Europe and America together with the showcase Frits Vrijlandt important today as it was when founded nearly 90 years ago. Discussions finding new ways of working and moving forward. I also want to take at the Olympic Games in Sochi and the celebrations – through the Nepal UIAA President this opportunity to thank the volunteers and staff who make up the Mountaineering Association - of the first ascents of the highest Himalaya peaks about the next Strategic Plan of the UIAA will form an integral part of this Covid-19 Crisis Consultation (CCC) Taskforce. They have done some in Nepal. But mostly I treasure the warmth and great moments shared with the year’s GA. Please be prepared to contribute – your input in the future of excellent work in steering the UIAA through these troubled times. climbers and mountaineers of the world. the UIAA is essential to its continued success. 6 7
2020 UIAA General Assembly VOTING GA Practical Information PROCEDURES Voting Protocol GA 2020: A GUIDE The General Assembly will have a Each UIAA member association must designate a voting delegate by indicating the name and email address through the GA registration form sent by the UIAA Office. Elections: For multiple choice ballots, the number of votes must correspond to the number of open seats (as indicated), if more votes than seats are indicated the ballot will be invalid. chance to VOTE for the approval of Due to the Covid-19 pandemic, the GA 2020, originally scheduled to take place The designated voting delegate will receive a voting code Voting results will be handled by designated UIAA Office staff the online meeting at the start of prior to the GA, which will need to be kept handy. In order on 24 October in Antalya, Turkey, organised by the Turkish Mountaineering to submit a vote, the designated voting delegate will need to members, who will sign a declaration of secrecy prior to the GA e-meeting. Federation, will now be held virtually. This decision was based on the the GA 2020. At this time, two votes enter the voting code, along with his/her first and last name. recommendation of the UIAA Management Committee Meeting on 5 June 2020 and will be held: On the day of the GA, the designated voting delegate will Once voting results are validated by the designated UIAA receive the meeting agenda containing all voting links, Office staff members, the voter's information will be erased. was communicated to member federations on 9 June 2020. based on the voting rights of the respective UIAA member The resulting anonymous data will be kept for 30 days after association (e.g. full versus associate members). the GA, as per Swiss Law. As identified in the accompanying agenda and programme, the online format of the GA A vote to APPROVE that the will see the traditional format split into sessions on both Friday 23 and Saturday 24 October. UIAA General Assembly The voting links will only be open during the time slot of At any point, should technical problems arise, please contact the GA e-meeting and exact start and end times will be office@theuiaa.org will be held online the UIAA Office at immediately. Furthermore, the Commission Presidents and Management Committee meetings will be communicated during the meeting by the meeting chair. Further instructions will be given via email. held the weekend prior. This is to enable the meetings to be spread out, to accommodate A vote to APPROVE the Proxy votes will not be accepted. E-Meeting The UIAA Office will hold training sessions on set days prior to different time zones and to make the online format less intense. proposed Voting Protocol For each agenda item, the designated voting delegate the GA, during which the voting procedure can be tested. All Platform & Security must submit his/her vote only once. Should more than one delegates are encouraged to join one of the training sessions Registration submission be received only the last submission within the to allow a smooth running of the GA e-meeting including The platform chosen for the GA is allotted time frame will count as valid. voting. GA registration must be completed using the online questionnaire form which is Zoom, one of the easiest tools to open in the Members Area on the UIAA website (the same area where supporting set up and use. The UIAA Office has E-Meeting Training 25/09 documents are uploaded). been keeping on top of protocol and Training for delegates will be provided before the meeting. The training dates and times Federations may select ONE voting member and two additional delegates to attend the best practices to ensure a safe and are listed on the programme with corresponding links (see page 10). Links to the sessions online GA. You will be asked to indicate this when you register. Only the voting member DEADLINE are provided in the version of the Agenda available on the Members’ portal. UIAA staff secure meeting. * For added security will receive a ballot that will be sent directly to the delegate shortly before the General for GA registration will be available to run you through the voting and meeting procedures. We recommend Assembly. For security reasons only delegates who register for the GA will be sent the link only registered members will receive that your attending delegates attend one of these sessions. Please contact the UIAA Office to the GA meetings. Additional guests may watch a stream of the GA live on YouTube. links to meetings. if you any specific questions. 8 9
2020 UIAA General Assembly MEMBER FEEDBACK & CONTRIBUTIONS FRIDAY, 23 OCTOBER E-Meeting, 13.00 – 17.00 CET Live on YouTube Agenda Item Questions Presentations, Q&A and Town Hall with For member federation Please send any questions concerning agenda items, supporting documents and e-meeting PROGRAMME OVERVIEW candidates for UIAA President guests (not voting protocol that you would like to be addressed at the General Assembly by 14 October. These SATURDAY, 24 OCTOBER delegates or active meeting questions should be sent to office@theuiaa.org . E-Meeting, 13.00 – 17.30 CET participants), the UIAA GA UIAA GENERAL ASSEMBLY 2020 Registration: 12.00 – 13.00 CET will be streamed live on YouTube. Access details will Questions for Presidential Candidates & Commissions be provided in due course by A moderated Town Hall will be held during the 23 October session where members will have the the UIAA Office. opportunity to hear introductions from candidates running for UIAA President and participate in live question and answers. Mon, 12 Oct Tue, 13 Oct Wed, 14 Oct Thu, 15 Oct Fri, 16 Oct Sat, 17 Oct Sun, 18 Oct Would your federation like to ask a question to the candidates nominated for the seat of President, Executive Board or Management Committee? You may also may send questions to UIAA Online Training Online Training Executive Board Management Meeting 13.00 – 17:00 09.00 – 13:00 Meeting Committee Meeting Commission Commissions. Please send any questions for consideration here . 13.00 – 16.00 13.00 – 17:00 Presidents/EB/MC 13.00 – 15.00 Best Practices & Climate Change The UIAA Office has sent out information for members to share details about their best practices Mon, 19 Oct Tue, 20 Oct Wed, 21 Oct Thu, 22 Oct Fri, 23 Oct Sat, 24 Oct Sun, 25 Oct Sat, 26 Sep and successful projects which could benefit other UIAA members and vice versa. Please use the Best Practices Questionnaire to tell the UIAA about one project your association is particularly proud of. Online Training Online Training Online Training GENERAL GENERAL Executive Board Management 13.00 – 17:00 09.00 – 13:00 13.00 – 17:00 ASSEMBLY ASSEMBLY Meeting Committee and The UIAA will use the information to present some case studies at the 2020 UIAA General Assembly Presentations, Registration 13.00 – 15.00 Commission and assure your work is duly recognised. In the same spirit, all UIAA member associations pledged Q&A and Town Hall 12.00 – 13.00 Presidents with candidates for Meeting 13:00 - 17:00 CET their support of the Climate Change Initiative presented at the 2019 General Assembly by the UIAA President 13.00 – 17:30 (Zurich Time) German Alpine Club (DAV). Please use the Climate Change Initiative Questionnaire to update the 13:00 – 17:00 UIAA about your association’s efforts to combat climate change. 10 11
2020 UIAA General Assembly AGENDA Item Type Who Documents Friday, 23 October 2020 Commission and WG projects and activities, 2nd sequence: Tarquin Cooper Mountain Protection Commission Carolina Adler Item Type Who Documents TBC UIAA Initiative on Climate Change A 8. Moderated Panel Reports Everest and Kilimanjaro Working Group – sustainable Greg Moseley A 1. Welcome and opening remarks by the UIAA President Information Frits Vrijlandt and responsible mountaineering Eduard Cayon New initiatives and ideas from member federations Stein Tronstad A 2. Introduction to e-meeting procedures Information Carol Kahoun Protocol A 3. Annual Report 2019 Presentation Peter Bourne Annual Report A 9. Unit Member report: International Skyrunning Federation (ISF) Presentation Silvio Calvi Report Commission projects and activities, 1st sequence: Peter Farkas Commission and CCC Taskforce projects and activities, 3rd sequence: Tarquin Cooper Mountaineering Commission Steve Long Safety Commission Amit Chowdhury Training Standards JJ Ibáñez Ice Climbing Commission Carlos Teixeira A 10. Moderated Panel Reports A 4. Access Working Group Presentations Martín Pavlos Georgiades Reports Anti-Doping Commission Marija Andjekovic Youth Commission Anne Arran Medical Commission Urs Hefti Rock Climbing Stéphane Lozac’hmeur COVID-19 Crisis Consultation Taskforce – update and member feedback Françoise Jaquet Petzl Foundation Arben Lila Continental A 11. Continental Reports Presentations Annual Report Finance Representatives Results Result 2019, auditor’s report and discharge to the Executive Board Presentation A 5. Peter Muir Forecast Result 2020 forecast Q&A Budget Nominations Budget 2021 Presentations Candidates for UIAA President Nominees and UIAA Strategy Candidates for Executive Board Frits Vrijlandt A 12. re-nominees A 6. Update Presentation Lode Beckers Proposal Candidates for Management Committee Tarquin Cooper Candidate files Decisions ahead Moderated Town Hall – Questions and Answers Presentations Q&A Candidates for UIAA President A 7. UIAA Court and Code of Ethics report Information Pierre Humblet Annual Report A13. Other Business All 12 13
2020 UIAA General Assembly Saturday, 24 October 2020 Item Type Who Documents Item Type Who Documents 1. Welcome and opening remarks by the UIAA President UIAA Strategy Information Frits Vrijlandt 7. Votes Lode Beckers Proposal 1.1. Members present and apologies for absence Decisions items Carol Kahoun 1.2. Introduction to e-meeting procedures and test vote Frits Vrijlandt 1.3. Voting rights, declaration of voting members present and majority Vote Elections and Nominations UIAA President 8. Vote Nominees and 2. Approval of the agenda Vote Frits Vrijlandt Agenda Executive Board members 8.1. Vote Frits Vrijlandt re-nominees Management Committee members 8.2. Vote Candidate files 3 Approval of the minutes of the 2019 General Assembly in Larnaca, Cyprus Vote Frits Vrijlandt Minutes 8.3. Words of Farewell and Thanks UIAA President’s report 4. (Commissions, Office, Marketing, Communication 9. New UIAA President Welcome Address UIAA President Vote Frits Vrijlandt Annual Report reports: Refer to UIAA 2019 Annual Report ) Future General Assemblies 10. 5. UIAA Membership GA 2021: 23 October 2021, Trabzon, Turkey Vote Vote Applications 10.1. Application (re-confirm host, previously selected for 2020) Vote Nils Glatthard 5.1. New applicants, change of membership category 10.2. documents Information Lode Beckers GA 2022, candidate: Canada Vote 5.2. Good governance: conflict of interest, signing of declaration 10.3. Information List GA 2023, candidate: Malta 5.3. Non-payment of membership fees and consequences 11. Other Business 6. Finance Vote Annual Report 6.1. Result 2019, auditor’s report and discharge to the Executive Board Information Peter Muir Forecast 6.2. Result 2020 forecast Vote Budget 6.3. Budget 2021 14 15
2020 UIAA General Assembly Elections EXECUTIVE BOARD PRESIDENT Amit Chowdhury CANDIDATES (2-3 open seats) Françoise Jaquet CANDIDATES (1 seat) India (**) Re-election Switzerland Indian Mountaineering Foundation Swiss Alpine Club (SAC) ©UIAA (IMF) Martín Lascano González Central & South America Representative UIAA – Managment Committee Re: UIAA Management Committee Re-nomination Amit Chowdhury Martin Lascano Peter Farkas Dear collegues, Argentina India Hungary Indian Mountaineering Federaciòn Argentina Hungarian Mountaineering and Sport Foundation The growth of the practice (IMF) of mountaineering and its de Ski y Andinismo (FASA) Climbing Federation (MHSSZ) universality is not a coincidence. The advancement of Name: Wang Yongfeng technology, the media and social networks show us that Date of Birth: 18/10/1963 today there are no limits, mountains and their natural environment are increasingly within reach. Position: Vice President of CMA EB Member of UIAA Hélène In this constant change, the UIAA mustDenis continue to be the engine to strengthen sports Wang Yongfeng University: China University of Geosc growth, without neglecting the natural environment and respecting the values that Peter Muir France mountaineering has taught us: Mountaineering ethics, camaraderie, the importance of style Education: Master of Geology China Climbing Finished the 7 continents Canada and respect, above successFédération Française or the summit itself. des Clubs Chinese Mountaineering Experience: Summits in 12 years Alpins et de Montagne (FFCAM) (**) Association (CMA) – Re-election (**) Alpine Club of Canada These values are what have shaped me as a mountaineer. My passion and commitment to Mt. Carstensz Pyramid(5030m the mountains is over 30 years old. Starting with climbing on all types of terrain, on national (ACC) Mt. Kilimanjaro(5963m), 1998 expeditions and as a mountaineering professor, to continue for the last 20 years as a sports 16 manager. Within the mountain club that taught me to climb, in the Argentine Federation Mt. Elbrus(5633m), 199717 and the UIAA itself, in the Safety Commission and the Management Committee. Where I Mt. Aconcagua(6962m), 1994 contributed this passion and commitment; and over the years, the experience gained.
2020 UIAA General Assembly MANAGEMENT Martín Lascano González COMMITTEE CANDIDATES (8 open seats) Jean Miczka Stein Tronstad (*) also nominated for EB position / (**) Re-election Central & South America Representative Norway UIAA – Managment Committee Steve Long France Re: UIAA Management Committee Re-nomination Mountaineering Instructor and International Mountain Guide Fédération Française des Norwegian Climbing Federation (NTK) Anne Arran Martin Lascano * Tan yr Onnen, Clubs Alpins et de Montagne (FFCAM) Dear collegues, UK Brynrefail, Argentina 01286 871140 British Mountaineering Council Caernarfon, Federaciòn Argentina (BMC) The growth of the practice of (**) mountaineering and its Gwynedd. de Ski y Andinismo (FASA) (**) steve.guides@freeuk.com universality is not a coincidence. The advancement of LL 55 3PE Greg Moseley Reza Zarei technology, the media and social networks show us that South Africa Iran st, 2020 today there are no limits, mountains and their natural environment are increasingly within reach. Mountain Club of Iran Mountaineering & Sports In this constant change,Kul Bahadur the UIAA Gurung must continue to be the engine to strengthen sports Steve Long South Africa (MCSA) (**) Climbing Federation (MSFI) (**) fice growth, without neglecting ustrasse 61 Postfach Nepalthe natural environment and respecting the values that UK mountaineering has taught us: Mountaineering ethics, camaraderie, the importance of style Switzerland and respect, above success or the Nepal summit itself. Mountaineering British Mountaineering Council (BMC) 0 Association (NMA) I have been President of the MCSA for the last four years and have been on the Management These values are what have shaped me as a mountaineer. My passion and commitment to Committee of the UIAA as the Africa Continental Representative for that same time. I have taken an and the mountains is over 30 years old. Starting with climbing on all types of terrain, on national Phil initiative active part in the MC meetings and have assisted in the “High Mountain” Powers aimed at dealing with mountain issues as the emerge. I feel that I have unfinished business that I am very keen to lleagues: expeditions and as a mountaineering professor, to continue for the last 20 years as a sports complete. I have built up a good network of friends and like-minded United States both within and colleagues manager. Within the mountain club that taught me to climb, in the Argentine Federation outside the formal UIAA structures. I am still active in the mountains! andthe apply for a place on theUIAA UIAA itself, in the Safety Management Commission and the Management Committee. Where I Committee. American Alpine Françoise contributed this passion and commitment;Jaquet * years, the experience gained. and over the Seiichiro Simon Maru Club (AAC) een the chair (nowCentral president) of the and South Training America Panel is one Switzerlandof thefor 14 pending great years (since 2006) challenges for and UIAA,have whichtaken I have a strong role Japanin Georges Elziere Juan Garrigos i Toro ng the aims and objectives of this assumed four very years ago,active group. achieving We have effective found that and permanent training has with communication become UIAA an increasingly France Spain nt factor in the motivation memberfor joining countries the and UIAA Swiss those expressed Alpine that ClubMy are not. by (**) (SAC) new new members. challenge is that theIncountries, intend to fromcontinue this leading thisMountaineering & Sports Japan m: r a few more years,part andofalso to continue that areworking on training come toprojects UIAA andwhen international travel greatbecomes viable Climbing Association (JMSCA) Fédération Française des Federación Española se Deportes ter the world, not members want to be part of our Clubs Alpins et de Montagne (FFCAM) de Montaña y Escalada (FEDME) of 18 mountain family. It would be an honor to be able to continue the work already started. 19 End ike to take a moreSincerely, active role in the managementI am of the UIAA Seiichiro goals Simon andand Maru, delivery. I believe as the Vice that President as an active of JMSCA, I have carried out the
Annual Report 2020 UIAA General Assembly The DIGITAL Member Associations The online directory of UIAA member associations VERSION of this MEMBERSHIP UPDATES can be found here. Members are encouraged to use 2019 EDITION Annual Report is available at: PUBLISHED the platform to share details of climbing in their Application for membership to the UIAA respective countries and regions. Contents include: The UIAA published its 2019 Annual Report in May 2020. • President’s Annual Message The digital report provides easier access to key resources – such as Costarican Federation of National Adventure Association of UIAA news articles, video content and online resources. Mountain Sports (FECODEM) Malaysia • A Review of 2019 A printed version of the report will be distributed to UIAA member has applied to change its Observer has applied to change its Observer Membership (as of 2015) • UIAA General Assembly 2019 Membership (as of 2019) to Full Membership to Full Membership associations over the coming weeks and months. • UIAA Strategy Process http://www.fecodem.org/ https://www.facebook.com/KEMBARANEGARA/ • UIAA Financial Report Federación Mexicana de Saudi Climbing & • Details on UIAA member associations Deportes de Montaña y Hiking Federation Escalada A.C. • UIAA Office, Communication & has applied for Full Membership has applied for Full Membership Sponsorship reports https://climbing.sa/ • Reports from every UIAA Commission (Access, Anti-Doping, Ice Climbing, Mountain Club of Western Caspian University, Azerbaijan International Commission for Alpine MedCom, Mountaineering + Training, Rescue (ICAR) Mountain Protection, Safety, Youth) as has applied for Associate Membership has applied for Observer Membership well as the UIAA Rock Climbing Working https://www.wcu.edu.az/ Group and Unit Member, International http://www.alpine-rescue.org/ Skyrunning Federation. 20 • Reports from the UIAA Continental bodies21
2019 2020 UIAA General Assembly UIAA Strategy Process CARBON FOOTPRINT AN UPDATE Next Steps REPORT The first Strategic Plan of the UIAA for the 21st Century covered the period between 2012 - 2016. The plan was revised in 2014 in order to clarify some goals and to ensure that the • The UIAA Management Committee (MC) and Commission At the close of 2019, and as part of its commitment to tackling climate change objectives were in accordance with the so-called SMART criteria (Specific, Measurable, Presidents are reviewing the Assignable, Realistic, Time-bound). proposal and providing feedback. and reducing its own CO2 emissions, the UIAA published its first annual The next Strategic Plan was drawn up for the years In the months following the meetings in • An additional MC online meeting Carbon Footprint Calculation. will take place on 26 September 2017 - 2020. It defined the goals the UIAA sought Cyprus, the UIAA Executive Board presented to achieve by 2020, based on member surveys and to the Management Committee and to to further discuss and recommend This report, covering 2018, outlines the ongoing results of monitoring and reporting of the UIAA’s carbon a SWOT analysis. For the years 2017 – 2020, it has the Commission Presidents an updated the proposal to the GA. At the footprint, which is in response to its signed commitment in early 2019 and participation under the United served as a basis for UIAA Commissions to prepare formulation of the UIAA’s vision, objectives same meeting, the MC will review Nations Framework Convention on Climate Change (UNFCCC) Sports for Climate Action. As a participant in this Commission projects and activities their own plans and for the UIAA to work towards and role. Carried by the expertise which went initiative, the UIAA is required and expected to adhere to five principles these being: and discuss amended Commission those goals. into the preparation of the ‘UIAA of the 21st Century’ report, the resulting document is a Regulations. • Principle 1: Undertake systematic efforts to promote greater environmental responsibility; To prepare the UIAA strategy for the years after compilation of the input received up to now 2020, a number of documents were drawn • After the 26 September MC • Principle 2: Reduce overall climate impact; from the various bodies of the UIAA. The new up, developing a new strategy for the UIAA, meeting, the Strategy Proposal formulation is condensed in the short-form assessing every aspect of the international will be added to the GA supporting • Principle 3: Educate for climate action; document currently being discussed. federation, its activities and the support documents. • Principle 4: Promote sustainable and responsible consumption; and provided to its members. Ahead of the 2019 The proposed reworded objectives were • Members are invited to UIAA Management Committee meeting and approved at meetings of the Executive Board, contribute before and – of course – • Principle 5: Advocate for climate action through communication. the General Assembly in Cyprus, a Strategic but they will be presented for further discussion during the GA Working Group (SWG) published their findings to Management Committee members, to the The Carbon Footprint report for 2019, which is based on a more sophisticated and extensive methodology and recommendations in a report called ‘The UIAA Commissions, to former SWG members, • Please refer to page 37-38 of the than the 2018 report and takes onboard feedback from UIAA members and the UIAA Mountain ns UIAA of the 21st Century’. and to the GA-voting federations. 2019 UIAA Annual Report. itio 22 Protection Commission, will be published before this year’s General Assembly. d pe 23 Ex les aja Gr ©
ry bra 2020 UIAA General Assembly i ck l Sto Management Committee & Executive Board The UIAA Management Committee was due to The Portal has proved to be one of the most As the pandemic evolved, the UIAA focused UIAA in 2020 host its in-person meeting in North Macedonia successful initiatives launched by the UIAA in more on common themes and answering in May. This was cancelled and replaced, recent times, bringing significant traffic to the more global questions. Dedicated articles UIAA for the first time, by an online meeting. The federation’s website and acting as a precious were produced regarding the opening of format proved successful with more delegates guide and reference point through these huts in Europe, worldwide travel restrictions troubled times. and where people could climb. There was DURING attending than otherwise would have made the in-person meeting, particularly those from also specific information on climbing during Initially the focus of the Portal was on supplying Covid-19, regulations to follow particularly in outside of Europe. There was also a follow COVID-19 updates from individual UIAA members. The relation to equipment and climbing with other y up Management Committee meeting and an ar br ck pandemic has impacted different parts of the world Li St o people. © online meeting of all Commission Presidents. at different times. Learnings from initial outbreaks During the virtual MC meetings, it was decided The platform also offered an insight into the in Asia and then in Europe proved crucial for that the 2020 UIAA General Assembly would impact on UIAA Commissions and the progress countries yet to be impacted. The current pandemic has had a profound impact on everybody’s lives. For international be held online. A first for the federation in its of work. For example, both the UIAA Rock organisations like the UIAA – International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation – near 90-year history. In an effort to ensure the The UIAA has published over 70 articles Climbing Festival Award and UIAA Mountain significant changes to the way the federation has communicated and operated have been UIAA remains efficient and meets its targets, Protection Award were postponed until 2021. from members in 45 countries. Over half its implemented in the context of an ever-evolving situation. the UIAA EB has held virtual meetings on an Other Commissions, like the Training Panel, even more regular basis than pre-pandemic. membership has contributed to the platform. used the lockdown period when outdoor The UIAA’s response to Covid-19 was only when conditions allowed towards the Members were able to use the platform activity was not possible to work on new Covid-19 Portal literature and material. proactive and has taken on many different end of June. The UIAA is accustomed to to share learning, general rules and aspects. Below is a breakdown of some of the agile working so there was no great cultural One of the UIAA’s first tasks was to direct all regulations and approaches to key initiatives and changes: change in terms of the working environment. Covid-19 related updates to a dedicated dealing with issues such as The Office held weekly catch up meetings website Portal. Like similar bodies, whether in huts, climbing gyms, access Office with all members of the team to ensure the sports world or NGOs, the UIAA’s exclusive focus was on the impact of Covid-19 on its and implementing social From mid-March, staff at the UIAA Office in regular communication and the delivery of operations, projects and on its membership. distancing. Bern, Switzerland worked remotely, returning key projects. 24 25
2020 UIAA General Assembly The Portal also acted as a forum to share core professionals), this group has been able to on three continents and athletes from nearly information from wider climbing media – provide leadership on a number of subjects 30 countries, the Mountain Protection Award including mental and physical health articles as the nature of the pandemic evolves. Each and Commission projects which require and general opinion pieces on the economic meeting addresses the situation across a physical meetings and workshops, are key impact of Covid-19 the climbing world. number of different countries with reports and considerations for the coming months. findings shared on the UIAA website. The UIAA has welcomed initiatives such as the CCC Taskforce Initiatives to come out of the meetings include one recently put in place by the Mountain Club of At their 7 April e-meeting, members of the a dedicated UIAA position statement on South Africa (MCSA) to run online seminars and UIAA Executive Board unanimously decided responsible climbing, an online form for UIAA workshops, through the UIAA, to foster a greater to create a Covid-19 Crisis Consultation (CCC) members to address concerns and share sense of community. The UIAA will continue to Taskforce. Its mission was to provide fast news, a donation/fundraising resource as well encourage this kind of concept to help bring the responses to queries and Covid-19-related as articles on core subjects of interest – access climbing world closer together. issues which may arise in the coming months. to huts, general rules for returning to sport Your resource for all The UIAA understands that the current The CCC enabled the UIAA to have a dedicated and the mountains. communication related to structure in place. When approached, the pandemic will have a significant impact on its UIAA would be able to provide swift answers members whether in retaining and attracting Climbing and Covid-19: Future and guidance, mainly by promptly referring their own members, on sport competitions, https://www.theuiaa.org/covid-19/ the question for consultation to a government Mass in-person international meetings are safety and training programmes, sustainability authority, to a crisis management body, to a unlikely to take place in the near future initiatives, sponsorship and donations, huts competent national federation or to a relevant and tourism. The UIAA itself will have to meaning, as a global organisation, the UIAA UIAA Commission. absorb the consequences of the current anticipates conducting its affairs online for the pandemic while continuing to fully represent By late August, the CCC Taskforce had held and support its members at a global level. foreseeable future. Ré four online meetings. With the support m yD of experts from different UIAA areas (EB, The impact on UIAA projects such as the UIAA For everything related to the UIAA and Covid- ud ing MC, Commissions and well as medical Ice Climbing World Tour, with competitions 19 please click here. -w ww .rem 26 27 ydu din g.ch
2020 UIAA General Assembly Mountain ranges are often the natural of the topography and the difficulties in created around the world in border regions borders between countries. The recognising, for example, the watersheds and these are having a positive impact on demarcation of borders in such remote and that can be the most logical border. In some instances, tectonic forces have led to streams environmental conservation, human activity difficult geography can be contentious. This has led on occasion to diplomatic and rivers apparently ignoring the laws of and allowing the free transit of people across disputes with these border issues often geomorphology by cutting through great international borders in wild areas of the world. dating back to colonial times. The United mountain ranges. In others, the source of these drainages is complicated by the source Examples spring to mind in Southern Africa UIAA Nations Security Council recently issued a being great masses of ice with no definite, and in Europe. Therefore, it seems logical that call for countries to “redouble their efforts natural watershed being evident – as was the for peace” during this period of combating transnational parks could be created in many STATEMENT case in Patagonia. the coronavirus pandemic that has of the mountain ranges of the world. already claimed more than half a million The UIAA appreciates that often mountain The UIAA is a global body of mountain Conservation of lives. areas are of great geostrategic importance organisations dedicated to promoting safe, but as climbers and mountain travellers, we Transnational Mountain Areas In these sometimes tense border situations, consider all mountain areas to be a great responsible access to mountains and to the there are inevitably social and economic protection and conservation of the world’s resource for the uplifting of the human spirit. impacts on local communities for whom these mountain ranges. We believe that the creation They are fundamental to the very being and 15/07 areas are their traditional homes and provide of trans-border protected areas could provide existence of local communities, but are also their livelihood. In addition, access restrictions deeply valued by people around the globe. a space for cross border peaceful engagement This statement was initiated by the international result in these areas being “locked up” and The UIAA in large part, exists to promote as well as support for local communities network of organisations and climbers who form and not accessible for critical conservation and the sustainable use of mountain areas for through the economic opportunities provided support the UIAA High Mountains Working Group climate change research or for access by recreation in the true sense of that word by mountain tourism. People should not On 15 July, the UIAA published and has benefitted from the comments and expertise mountaineers and mountain travellers. – re-creation. It is sad therefore that some be excluded from such natural areas – there the following statement of members of the UIAA Management Committee, The UIAA – International Climbing and mountain ranges have been, and are, the are examples from all over the world. h ng.c Commission Presidents and Commission delegates. Mountaineering Federation – appreciates that scenes of dispute. Transnational parks in mountain border areas udi concerning the conservation of myd border areas often have a problematic and are an opportunity on a number of fronts, not w. re transnational mountain areas. The UIAA Executive Board wish to confirm its support disputed historical context. The demarcation Reflecting this deeper value to humankind least to embrace and support the elevation of -ww for the initiative and the content of this statement. ng may be complicated by the complexity a number of transnational parks have been the wider human spirit. udi 28 29 yD Rém
©U IAA 2020 UIAA General Assembly IMPACT ON UIAA ICE CLIMBING WORLD TOUR /Ka Continental competitions will be held in Asia, spa r Ke Europe and North America with new meets to be rhalle held in Canada, the Netherlands, the USA – these RELEASE OF PROVISIONAL 2020-2021 UIAA ICE CLIMBING CALENDAR sl events are an ideal platform for young climbers and competition newcomers. Sixteen events in thirteen countries currently form the provisional calendar for the 2020-2021 UIAA Ice Climbing World Tour The release of the calendar provides athletes with the opportunity to start tentatively planning their partnered by Outdoor Research. However the developing Covid-19 own seasons and offers a timely incentive for their situation may force significant changes training preparations. Like many other athletes, they have had to adapt both their professional Ranging from the pinnacle of the return to Champagny-en-Vanoise in the careers and training schedules during the Covid- Rob Adie 19 pandemic. competition arm of ice climbing – the French Alps. The World Championships UIAA Sports Events will be held in Saas-Fee, Switzerland the Coordinator Dates in the calendar are provisional and the biennial UIAA Ice Climbing World weekend after and for the first time with the evolution of the Covid-19 pandemic will also have Championships – through to Continental inclusion of the World Championships in The Covid-19 situation in many of the UIAA Ice a direct impact on the feasibility of hosting, and Cups, the calendar offers a more extensive the Combined discipline in addition to the Climbing World Cup host countries remains a travelling to, international competitions. The UIAA World Cup programme than last season regular lead and speed events. The World concern, as do international travel restrictions. is putting in place criteria for events to take place and increased opportunities for young Cup season resumes in North America with and is in regular contact with all stakeholders The UIAA Office and Ice Climbing Commission a potential date in Montreal and closes in climbers to establish a pathway in the sport. and following the advice of the World Health Kirov, Russia home of the 2019 UIAA Ice are currently working on contingency plans for an Organisation (WHO) and the International The World Cup component of the season Climbing World Championships. alternative 2021 Ice Climbing World Tour – which Olympic Committee (IOC). The UIAA criteria currently features five events. Starting will be published just after the GA in October. The with two competitions in Asia, repeating The other major event – the annual UIAA can be downloaded here. Please note that this provisional calendar is likely to be subject to massive document is subject to change. 2020’s visit to Changchun City (China, to Ice Climbing World Youth Championships be confirmed) and Cheongsong (South – is scheduled to take place in Tyumen, the changes with it seemingly very difficult to run any For the very latest on the UIAA Ice Climbing Promo: 2020-21 UIAA Ice Climbing Calendar 30 Korea). The first European stop sees a first Russian settlement in Siberia. sort of World Tour in 2021. World Tour and Covid-19 please click here. https://youtu.be/Z-IX8jLotow 31
2020 UIAA General Assembly RECALLS AND WARNINGS SAFETY Reports of recalls, equipment failures and warnings – published by manufacturers – are charted on the Recalls database. Climber Skills, Advice & Videos Safety Resources For https://www.theuiaa.org/safety-standards/recalls/ The UIAA has put together a number of Climbing Community resources related to climber safety. These include SAFETY LABEL HOLDERS belay skills videos, in partnership with The UIAA provides the German Alpine Club (DAV), guides to a number of safety Climbers can quickly view which climbing gear and equipment manufacturers are UIAA Safety Label accredited. Currently there are 76 purchasing climbing equipment online, wider services for members, companies from 21 countries. UIAA SAFETY PORTAL advice on climbing gear as well as the Skills and by extension https://www.theuiaa.org/uiaa-safety-label/safety-label-holders/ The landing page for all UIAA Safety series run by the UIAA Training Panel. the wider climbing topics has recently been revised. community. https://www.theuiaa.org/safety/ SAFETY STANDARDS Below is a reminder This portal provides direct access to of some of the key The full list of all 24 UIAA Safety Standards can be found on the dedicated all of the areas detailed below. page. assets. Contact UIAA SafeCom https://www.theuiaa.org/safety-standards/ Details on the UIAA Safety Commission can be found here: UIAA SAFETY LABEL CERTIFIED EQUIPMENT MISUSE ACCREDITED LABORATORIES https://www.theuiaa.org/safety-standards/ A brief history of the UIAA Safety Label Climbers can check for gear which has been This resource was launched in the summer of Companies interested in sending equipment for testing to UIAA Safety To apply for the UIAA Safety Label please fill in the and details regarding its relevance to fully certified according to stringent UIAA Safety 2020. Its purpose is to report unauthorised following form. Standards can view the list of UIAA accredited laboratories, currently 19 the climbing world can be found on the Standards. This database is updated in real-time. use and breaches of the UIAA Safety Label. dedicated page. companies from eight countries. For all questions related to Safety please contact the h t t p s : / /w w w. t h e u i a a . o r g /s a f e t y - s t a n d a rd s / https://www.theuiaa.org/uiaa-safety-label/ UIAA Safety Label team. https://www.theuiaa.org/uiaa-safety-label/ certified-equipment/ misuse/ https://www.theuiaa.org/uiaa-safety-label/accredited-laboratories/ 32 33
ALPINE SUMMER SKILLS HANDBOOK 2020 UIAA General Assembly • Czech: translation with the Czech Mountain Translations in progress Leader Association, in accordance with Jan Almost done: Update on Progress of UIAA Alpine Handbooks Bloudek, from the Czech Mountaineering For further details on Association. Published in 2019 the UIAA’s training • Mongolian: Mongolian National Climbing programmes and The annual update on the progress of the UIAA Summer Skills Alpine Handbook, produced in collaboration Federation materials please click • Korean: Korean Alpine Club. Published in with The Petzl Foundation, will be provided during the GA. Below is a summary of the progress made in 2017. • Chinese (Taiwan): Chinese Taipei here. recent years and a reminder of how members can get involved and best use the resource. Mountaineering Association • Turkish: the first translation after the English The original book ‘Memento’ was produced in French before being section has been completely rewritten by expert meteorologists. The one. Printed in 2017. • Iranian (Farsi): Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation Purchase: translated into English and then in several other languages following chapter on leader-placed protection has been expanded, following • English: Translation by the Canadian Alpine Alpine Handbook agreements with UIAA member associations. Print versions are available feedback from UIAA honorary member Reinhold Messner. Advanced bulk Club (ACC) in 2015. In progress: exclusively through UIAA members. orders are invited from member organisations, to minimise delivery costs. • French: First version of the Handbook, • Macedonian: Mountaineering Federation A Canyoning chapter is also being produced for - currently it is only in Reminder: Purchase Digital Handbook the “Memento” was created by the Petzl of North Macedonia French. It will be translated by the Canadian Alpine Club (ACC). The digital version of the English translation can be purchased online Foundation in 2013. • Indonesian: Indonesia Sport Climbing and here. Prices are subject to exchange rate changes. The book can currently Mountaineering Federation Creation of Winter Skills Handbook be downloaded for less than five euros (a little over five USD). The guide Almost published was developed specifically as a reference document for trip leaders and A Winter Skills Handbook could soon be launched, in collaboration with • Catalan and Spanish: Federació d’Entitats • Romanian: Alexandru Paun, President of the instructors of club and federations within the UIAA – an aide memoire the ACC and the Petzl Foundation. Excursionistes De Catalunya (FEEC) Romanian Alpin Club (CAR) and UIAA Ice for climbers and mountaineers who attend training courses delivered by instructors and guides who have gained qualifications accredited by the Climbing Commission member, has worked • Greek: Pavlos Georgiades, UIAA Youth Languages already published on the Romanian edition. The book will be Commission President, proposed translating UIAA. • Japanese: Japan Mountaineering and Climbing Federation. Printed printed this autumn. the document with the Mountaineering, this year. See article. Climbing and Orienteering Federation of Alpine Summer Skills Handbook: New Content • Albanian: Translation by Arben Lila and Cyprus (KOMOAAP) To purchase the DIGITAL VERSION of the A new English language edition of the Alpine Skills Handbook is almost • Serbian: Nenad Dikic, former President of the UIAA Anti-Doping Teuta Bicaj / Kosovo Mountaineering and UIAA Alpine Skills Handbook (in English), ready for print publication. This contains significant additions, including Commission, worked with students on a translation into Serbian. Alpinist Federation. Almost finished, should • Arabic: Jordan Tourism Board started work including any future updates to the digital new sections on GPS navigation and summer avalanche. The weather Published in 2019. be printed soon. but this is currently on “hold”. version, click here. 34 35
ons 2020 UIAA General Assembly diti xpe les E ra j a PAST MPA WINNERS G to: UIAA Mountain Protection Award Pho • 2019 Following consultation between various parties whom have many other priorities and concerns Swiss Alpine Club – Mountain Protection Commission (MPC) Switzerland at present,” explains Dr Carolina Adler, MP delegates, the Award Assessment Team, the Commission President. • 2018 UIAA Executive Board, UIAA Office and Community Action Nepal main sponsor Bally – the UIAA MPC took the “Equally we need to respect limitations on travel to UK decision in May to postpone the evaluation and the mountains for non-essential purposes as many UIAA ANNUAL AWARDS prize designation for the 2020 UIAA Mountain of the projects showcased as part of the MPA require • 2017 Protection Award to 2021. Mount Everest Biogas ongoing physical presence in mountain regions. Project Furthermore, the 2020-2021 Award will provide a The application portal – live since 1 March – remains USA The UIAA General Assembly is normally the occasion open for proponents to submit projects and platform to help aid the recovery and regeneration of many projects significantly impacted by the where the Mountain Protection Award and Rock Climbing initiatives for the 2020-2021 Award. Assessment • 2016 current crisis.” Mountain Wilderness Festival Award are both presented. Owing to Covid-19, the will commence in mid-2021 and the Award winner announced at the 2021 UIAA General Assembly, France 2020 editions of both UIAA platforms have been extended The UIAA will continue to showcase the Mountain currently scheduled for the autumn of that year. The Protection Award throughout 2020 and early 2021. • 2015 into 2021. deadline to submit applications will be confirmed An upcoming communication series will share KTK-BELT Studio at a later date. information on the progress made by past winners Nepal UIAA Rock Climbing Festival Award of the Award in fulfilling their goals and ambitions. “After several online meetings and exchanges, • 2014 Part of the platform’s very core is to support and The 2020 Award was scheduled to open in March 2020 and welcome the decision to postpone the Award to 2021 follow the progress of nominees and provide Pamir Horse Adventure applications from festivals in Oceania and South-East Asia. The Award has been Tajikistan has been taken to demonstrate our solidarity to inspiration for tangible actions and initiatives that postponed until 2021. Application opens in the spring. can be taken to see better outcomes for mountain • 2013 UIAA members, partners and those organising regions worldwide, not least given the need to Menz-Guassa Community For further information please contact rockclimbing@theuiaa.org or visit the mountain-based sustainability projects during prioritise new development models in light of this Conservation Area dedicated pages on the UIAA website. this unprecedented global pandemic. All of pandemic. Ethiopia 36 37
2020 UIAA General Assembly UIAA COMMISSIONS MedCom planned to hold a short meeting in June 2020 alongside the International Society in May 2020, the Commission with its main partner Bally agreed to extend the 2020 MPA to Mountaineering Progress in 2020 for Mountain Medicine (ISMM) Congress in 2021 and accept applications throughout. The Peter Farkas Interlaken, Switzerland. Whilst the congress adapted timeline will be published by the end UIAA Commission Presidents will present progress made in 2020, and in the context of Covid-19, during the A full review of projects is ongoing including the and the adjacent meeting were cancelled, the of August 2020. A remarkable effort has gone accident report project (closed down, data to General Assembly. To aide delegate preparations for the Plenary Session, brief details of Commission work Commission invested time and resources in into drafting and finalising a Memorandum of be analysed); ISO certificate project and a Style from the publication of the 2019 Annual Report to August 2020 are provided below. joining the CCC Taskforce. The remainder of Understanding with UN Environment. As a first and Ethics initiative, which will focus on a review, the year will be used to lay out future work and output, the MPC together with UN Environment and potential face lift, of some existing UIAA closely monitored. The UIAA has published Medical projects of the Commission. Alongside the and IFMGA will hold a workshop to update the Anti-Doping declarations. specific criteria in relation to the hosting of regular updating of MedCom recommendations, standing Environmental Guidelines. Maria Andjelkovic events. An online Commission meeting was held Urs Hefti the Commission aims to publish an advice papers The Mountaineering Commission also has two on 9-10 May. Amongst other subjects, the Based on the signed commitment to adhere to on water and one on women in the mountains in Given the current freezing of competition Commission discussed the negative impact Since his election as President at the spring sub-groups, Access and Training. the coming years. Furthermore, a combination a set of five principles under the UNFCCC Sport sport, any in-competition testing has been that the cancellation of events has had in the MC in 2019, Urs Hefti has focused on the of meeting and medical training are planned for For Climate Action Framework, the Mountain put on hold. Out of competition testing may past and will seek to rectify this issue in the restructuring of the Commission and its Access continue. The Commission is primarily focusing future. activities and has called for UIAA member 2022 in Africa. Protection Commission works on systematically on compliance with the upcoming changes federations to provide greater clarity regarding displaying climate leaderships on the UIAA’s path Juan Jesus Ibanez Martin The Commission also discussed its future and is to WADA (World Anti-Doping Agency) the work they would like MedCom to focus on Mountain Protection to carbon neutrality. A first step has been achieved currently in the process of resetting its strategic The main priority is the Access WG’s integration regulations. (notably recommendation papers). in calculating the UIAA’s carbon footprint. The goals and developing a structure which will Carolina Adler Commission now aims at providing guidelines into the Mountaineering Commission. Access will ensure adequate human resourcing across all Ice Climbing of its projects. Furthermore, this will guarantee The Commission, with the support of also be an increasingly important and contentious The 2020 UIAA Mountain Protection Award , and for events and activities of the UIAA in the form some new members, published a paper in Carlos Teixeira that strategic goals can be developed Respect the Mountains (RTM) The 2020 UIAA of a climate mitigation policy, which encourages issue when lockdown rules are relaxed or adapted 2020 ‘Preacclimatisation for expeditions to and pushed forward by members of the in different countries. The UIAA continues to extreme altitude’. It tackles the subjects of Mountain Protection Award, and Respect the to avoid, reduce, substitute, and compensate for The 2019-2020 UIAA Ice Climbing World Tour Commission who are motivated and have the Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) prevention Mountains (RTM) Movement were launched emissions created by the UIAA as an insitution monitor issues related to Everest (Covid-19 has concluded before lockdown. However, the skill sets required to achieve these objectives impact on next season’s calendar, which was towards the continued future development of and intermittent normobaric hypoxia in the beginning of the year. Both were put on and report on these results as part of the UIAA’s stopped progress) and Kilimanjaro (currently no published in July (see pages 30-31), is being ice climbing. preacclimatisation and can be viewed here. hold due to Covid-19. During its virtual meeting commitment on taking climate action. updates). 38 39
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