2020 UIAA GENERAL ASSEMBLY - A GUIDE TO

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2020 UIAA GENERAL ASSEMBLY - A GUIDE TO
A GUIDE TO THE
2020 UIAA GENERAL ASSEMBLY
2020 UIAA GENERAL ASSEMBLY - A GUIDE TO
TABLE OF CONTENTS
                                                                                                 WELCOME                     4   2019 Edition published                   21

                                                                                                 President’s Message         5   2019 Carbon Footprint Report             22

                                                                                                 GA PRACTICAL INFORMATION    8   UIAA STRATEGY PROCESS                    23

                                                                                                 GA 2020: A Guide            8
                                                                                                                                 An Update                                23

                                                                                                 Voting Procedures           8
                                                                                                                                 UIAA IN 2020                             24

                                                                                                 Programme Overview         10
                                                                       GLOBAL MOUNTAIN NETWORK                                   UIAA during Covid-19                     24
                                                                                                 Agenda                     12
                                                                                                                                 UIAA Statement                           28
                                                                                                 ELECTIONS                  16
                                                                                                                                 Impact on UIAA Ice Climbing World Tour   30
                                                                                                 President                  16
                                                                                                                                 Safety                                   32
                                                                                                 Executive Board            17

                                                                                                                                 Alpine Summer Skills Handbook            34
                                                                                                 Management Committee       18

                                                                                                                                 UIAA Annual Awards                       36
                                                                                                 MEMBER ASSOCIATIONS        20

                                                                                                 Membership updates         20   UIAA Commissions                         38

                                                                                                 ANNUAL REPORT              21   UIAA Office & Communication              42

Credit Cover Image: Rémy Duding - www.remyduding.ch
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Note: Some information is subject to change and updates will be provided by the UIAA Office.
2020 UIAA GENERAL ASSEMBLY - A GUIDE TO
2020 UIAA General Assembly

                                                                                                 PRESIDENT’S MESSAGE

            Address from UIAA President
            Frits Vrijlandt

            As I embark on my final weeks as UIAA President, I wanted to share my appreciation
            for the eight years we have spent together. We, like true mountaineers, have conquered
            many challenges and have always done so as a team. When I leave the UIAA in October
            it is the people I will miss the most. I’m very sad not to be able to see you all in person to
            say farewell, but circumstances dictate that holding the GA online is the most sensible and
            responsible option. My hope is that during one of the first in-person meetings next year
            that I will have a chance to see as many of you as possible.

            This digital guide to the General Assembly (and related   One of the biggest tasks this year will be electing my
            supporting documents) are designed to help you best       successor. I wish this person all the best in a challenging

            prepare for the various sessions and meetings. The        and deeply rewarding role. With the full support of an
                                                                      international and passionate Executive Board, they will
            online format will herald a different kind of meeting
                                                                      achieve great things.
            so absorbing as much information as possible before
            the GA will help you prepare any questions and make       In the meantime and until the GA, here are some
            informed decisions.                                       reflections on my time with the UIAA.

4                                                                                                                                   5

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2020 UIAA GENERAL ASSEMBLY - A GUIDE TO
2020 UIAA General Assembly

    On Covid-19                                                             On Becoming President                                                               Challenges
    This has been one of the biggest challenges we have faced over the      In 2012 at the GA in Amsterdam, the choice for President was between myself         The role has been demanding and not always easy. The UIAA is an organisation
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        Future
    past eight years. I feel very blessed to be healthy. Covid-19 has had   and another extremely prepared candidate. When it was confirmed that I had          with a lot of different responsibilities, projects and visions. As a mountaineer from
    a severe impact on the world, on our communities and federations,       received the most votes I was very happy but also aware of the scale of the task                                                                                            I hope to be able to continue my relationship with the UIAA in some
                                                                                                                                                                a ‘flat country’ I am used to travelling to go climbing and absorbing different
    and on our climbing and mountaineering activities. We need to           to serve our member federations. My first responsibility, the morning after the                                                                                             capacity. For now it is time for a new leader and for me to take a break.
                                                                                                                                                                opinions and viewpoints and above all respecting them. There are areas where
    focus on supporting each other.                                         elections, was to organise the roles in the Executive Board and to be briefed
                                                                                                                                                                we could have done better. However with the relatively limited funding available I      Should they seek my advice or support, I am always available.
                                                                            by our Executive Director on ongoing matters. There have been many changes
    These are challenging times and circumstances. Many of our              over the past eight years, both in the EB and the Office, and I think we now have   believe we deliver great value. One of my biggest regrets is the departure of the
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        Thank you to all of our member associations, EB, MC, Commission
    activities have paused until better times. Climbers and mountaineers    a team which has worked better than ever.                                           Italian Alpine Club (CAI) from the UIAA after 85 years as a partner and one of our
                                                                                                                                                                founding federations. I hope they return.                                               Presidents and members, Office staff, partners, sponsors, athletes and all
    are flexible and creative people and able to handle challenges.
                                                                            Achievements and Memories                                                                                                                                                   delegates for your support over the past eight years.
    This is shown in the work and response of our Commissions and
                                                                            There have been many fine memories and successes. The return of the DAV             Strategic Plan
    federations.
                                                                            and OAV to the UIAA was a significant moment. I also fondly remember the
                                                                                                                                                                The UIAA should remain the global voice of climbers and mountaineers
    The main impact is that currently it is not an option to organise       General Assembly in Flagstaff, Arizona (2014) organised by our honorary
                                                                                                                                                                for sustainability, mountain protection, access, safety and general
    international gatherings. In a recent statement , we advised our        member Bill Putnam who passed away a few months later. Other moments
                                                                                                                                                                climbing and mountaineering activities. The UIAA Safety Label remains
    members to enjoy climbing and mountaineering locally as travel          which stand out are the UAAA (Union of Asian Alpine Associations) gatherings,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       See you
    restrictions due to Covid-19 apply for many countries in the world.     recognising Reinhold Messner and Injeong-Lee as Honorary Members, the               the highest, global standard and one we should continue to promote
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       in the mountains,
    We stay regularly updated on the global situation and continue to       realisation of the Respect the Mountains projects, the UIAA Mountain Protection     and evolve. More than ever, in age of information overload, promoting
    share knowledge and information with our federations through our        Award ceremonies, the adding of new translations of our technical climbing          safe and responsible climbing is key. I believe we should continue to
    communication platforms and Covid-19 portal. Despite the slowdown       handbook with The Petzl Foundation, the great support for the development of        offer leadership in mountain protection on a global stage, support ice
    on some of our activities I am confident we will pick things up again   ice climbing from the late Han DongSoo, Governor of Cheongsong County and           climbing athletes in their Olympic dream, and provide a platform for our
    with great energy as soon as it is possible. Indeed, a lot of good      of Mr Sung KiHak, Chairman of Youngone Corporation, the UIAA Ice Climbing
                                                                                                                                                                Commissions to deliver their excellent work. The UIAA is as valid and
    and productive work has not halted. The UIAA has been agile in          World Cup events in China, Europe and America together with the showcase                                                                                                                                                   Frits Vrijlandt
                                                                                                                                                                important today as it was when founded nearly 90 years ago. Discussions
    finding new ways of working and moving forward. I also want to take     at the Olympic Games in Sochi and the celebrations – through the Nepal                                                                                                                                                     UIAA President
    this opportunity to thank the volunteers and staff who make up the      Mountaineering Association - of the first ascents of the highest Himalaya peaks     about the next Strategic Plan of the UIAA will form an integral part of this
    Covid-19 Crisis Consultation (CCC) Taskforce. They have done some       in Nepal. But mostly I treasure the warmth and great moments shared with the        year’s GA. Please be prepared to contribute – your input in the future of
    excellent work in steering the UIAA through these troubled times.       climbers and mountaineers of the world.                                             the UIAA is essential to its continued success.

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2020 UIAA GENERAL ASSEMBLY - A GUIDE TO
2020 UIAA General Assembly
                                                                                                         VOTING
    GA Practical Information                                                                             PROCEDURES                             Voting Protocol

    GA 2020: A GUIDE                                                                                     The General Assembly will have a
                                                                                                                                                Each UIAA member association must designate a voting
                                                                                                                                                delegate by indicating the name and email address through
                                                                                                                                                the GA registration form sent by the UIAA Office.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                 Elections: For multiple choice ballots, the number of votes
                                                                                                                                                                                                                 must correspond to the number of open seats (as indicated),
                                                                                                                                                                                                                 if more votes than seats are indicated the ballot will be invalid.
                                                                                                         chance to VOTE for the approval of
    Due to the Covid-19 pandemic, the GA 2020, originally scheduled to take place                                                               The designated voting delegate will receive a voting code
                                                                                                                                                                                                                 Voting results will be handled by designated UIAA Office staff
                                                                                                         the online meeting at the start of     prior to the GA, which will need to be kept handy. In order
    on 24 October in Antalya, Turkey, organised by the Turkish Mountaineering                                                                   to submit a vote, the designated voting delegate will need to
                                                                                                                                                                                                                 members, who will sign a declaration of secrecy prior to the
                                                                                                                                                                                                                 GA e-meeting.
    Federation, will now be held virtually. This decision was based on the                               the GA 2020. At this time, two votes   enter the voting code, along with his/her first and last name.

    recommendation of the UIAA Management Committee Meeting on 5 June 2020 and                           will be held:                          On the day of the GA, the designated voting delegate will
                                                                                                                                                                                                                 Once voting results are validated by the designated UIAA

                                                                                                                                                receive the meeting agenda containing all voting links,          Office staff members, the voter's information will be erased.
    was communicated to member federations on 9 June 2020.                                                                                      based on the voting rights of the respective UIAA member         The resulting anonymous data will be kept for 30 days after
                                                                                                                                                association (e.g. full versus associate members).                the GA, as per Swiss Law.
    As identified in the accompanying agenda and programme, the online format of the GA                           A vote to APPROVE that the
    will see the traditional format split into sessions on both Friday 23 and Saturday 24 October.                UIAA General Assembly         The voting links will only be open during the time slot of       At any point, should technical problems arise, please contact
                                                                                                                                                the GA e-meeting and exact start and end times will be                                   office@theuiaa.org
                                                                                                                  will be held online                                                                            the UIAA Office at                                  immediately.
    Furthermore, the Commission Presidents and Management Committee meetings will be                                                            communicated during the meeting by the meeting chair.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                 Further instructions will be given via email.

    held the weekend prior. This is to enable the meetings to be spread out, to accommodate                       A vote to APPROVE the         Proxy votes will not be accepted.                                                                                                     E-Meeting
                                                                                                                                                                                                                 The UIAA Office will hold training sessions on set days prior to
    different time zones and to make the online format less intense.                                              proposed Voting Protocol
                                                                                                                                                For each agenda item, the designated voting delegate
                                                                                                                                                                                                                 the GA, during which the voting procedure can be tested. All
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      Platform & Security
                                                                                                                                                must submit his/her vote only once. Should more than one         delegates are encouraged to join one of the training sessions

    Registration                                                                                                                                submission be received only the last submission within the       to allow a smooth running of the GA e-meeting including
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      The platform chosen for the GA is
                                                                                                                                                allotted time frame will count as valid.                         voting.
    GA registration must be completed using the online questionnaire form which is                                                                                                                                                                                                    Zoom, one of the easiest tools to
    open in the Members Area on the UIAA website (the same area where supporting
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      set up and use. The UIAA Office has
                                                                                                                                                E-Meeting Training

                                                                                                     25/09
    documents are uploaded).
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      been keeping on top of protocol and
                                                                                                                                                Training for delegates will be provided before the meeting. The training dates and times
    Federations may select ONE voting member and two additional delegates to attend the                                                                                                                                                                                               best practices to ensure a safe and
                                                                                                                                                are listed on the programme with corresponding links (see page 10). Links to the sessions
    online GA. You will be asked to indicate this when you register. Only the voting member
                                                                                                         DEADLINE                               are provided in the version of the Agenda available on the Members’ portal. UIAA staff                                                secure meeting. * For added security
    will receive a ballot that will be sent directly to the delegate shortly before the General      for GA registration                        will be available to run you through the voting and meeting procedures. We recommend
    Assembly. For security reasons only delegates who register for the GA will be sent the link                                                                                                                                                                                       only registered members will receive
                                                                                                                                                that your attending delegates attend one of these sessions. Please contact the UIAA Office
    to the GA meetings. Additional guests may watch a stream of the GA live on YouTube.                                                                                                                                                                                               links to meetings.
                                                                                                                                                if you any specific questions.
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2020 UIAA GENERAL ASSEMBLY - A GUIDE TO
2020 UIAA General Assembly

                                                                                                                                                                                      MEMBER FEEDBACK & CONTRIBUTIONS
                                                                                                   FRIDAY, 23 OCTOBER
                                                                                                   E-Meeting, 13.00 – 17.00 CET                        Live on YouTube                Agenda Item Questions
                                                                                                   Presentations, Q&A and Town Hall with
                                                                                                                                                       For member federation
                                                                                                                                                                                      Please send any questions concerning agenda items, supporting documents and e-meeting

PROGRAMME OVERVIEW
                                                                                                   candidates for UIAA President
                                                                                                                                                       guests (not voting
                                                                                                                                                                                      protocol that you would like to be addressed at the General Assembly by 14 October. These
                                                                                                   SATURDAY, 24 OCTOBER                                delegates or active meeting
                                                                                                                                                                                      questions should be sent to office@theuiaa.org .
                                                                                                   E-Meeting, 13.00 – 17.30 CET                        participants), the UIAA GA
UIAA GENERAL ASSEMBLY 2020                                                                         Registration: 12.00 – 13.00 CET                     will be streamed live on
                                                                                                                                                       YouTube. Access details will   Questions for Presidential Candidates & Commissions
                                                                                                                                                       be provided in due course by
                                                                                                                                                                                      A moderated Town Hall will be held during the 23 October session where members will have the
                                                                                                                                                       the UIAA Office.
                                                                                                                                                                                      opportunity to hear introductions from candidates running for UIAA President and participate in
                                                                                                                                                                                      live question and answers.

     Mon, 12 Oct       Tue, 13 Oct       Wed, 14 Oct       Thu, 15 Oct       Fri, 16 Oct           Sat, 17 Oct                Sun, 18 Oct                                             Would your federation like to ask a question to the candidates nominated for the seat of President,
                                                                                                                                                                                      Executive Board or Management Committee?            You may also may send questions to UIAA
     Online Training                     Online Training                     Executive Board       Management                Meeting
     13.00 – 17:00                       09.00 – 13:00                       Meeting               Committee Meeting         Commission                                               Commissions. Please send any questions for consideration here .
                                                                             13.00 – 16.00         13.00 – 17:00             Presidents/EB/MC
                                                                                                                             13.00 – 15.00
                                                                                                                                                                                      Best Practices & Climate Change
                                                                                                                                                                                      The UIAA Office has sent out information for members to share details about their best practices
     Mon, 19 Oct       Tue, 20 Oct       Wed, 21 Oct       Thu, 22 Oct       Fri, 23 Oct           Sat, 24 Oct                Sun, 25 Oct       Sat, 26 Sep                           and successful projects which could benefit other UIAA members and vice versa. Please use the Best
                                                                                                                                                                                      Practices Questionnaire to tell the UIAA about one project your association is particularly proud of.
                       Online Training   Online Training   Online Training   GENERAL               GENERAL                   Executive Board    Management
                       13.00 – 17:00     09.00 – 13:00     13.00 – 17:00     ASSEMBLY              ASSEMBLY                  Meeting            Committee and                         The UIAA will use the information to present some case studies at the 2020 UIAA General Assembly
                                                                             Presentations,        Registration              13.00 – 15.00      Commission                            and assure your work is duly recognised. In the same spirit, all UIAA member associations pledged
                                                                             Q&A and Town Hall     12.00 – 13.00                                Presidents
                                                                             with candidates for   Meeting                                      13:00 - 17:00 CET                     their support of the Climate Change Initiative presented at the 2019 General Assembly by the
                                                                             UIAA President        13.00 – 17:30                                (Zurich Time)                         German Alpine Club (DAV). Please use the Climate Change Initiative Questionnaire to update the
                                                                             13:00 – 17:00
                                                                                                                                                                                      UIAA about your association’s efforts to combat climate change.

10                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            11
2020 UIAA GENERAL ASSEMBLY - A GUIDE TO
2020 UIAA General Assembly

AGENDA                                                                                                                                              Item                                                                  Type                Who                          Documents

Friday, 23 October 2020                                                                                                                             Commission and WG projects and activities, 2nd sequence:                                  Tarquin Cooper
                                                                                                                                                    Mountain Protection Commission                                                            Carolina Adler
            Item                                                                 Type            Who                        Documents                                                                                                         TBC
                                                                                                                                                    UIAA Initiative on Climate Change
                                                                                                                                            A 8.                                                                          Moderated Panel                                  Reports
                                                                                                                                                    Everest and Kilimanjaro Working Group – sustainable                                       Greg Moseley
     A 1.   Welcome and opening remarks by the UIAA President                    Information     Frits Vrijlandt                                    and responsible mountaineering                                                            Eduard Cayon
                                                                                                                                                    New initiatives and ideas from member federations                                         Stein Tronstad
     A 2.   Introduction to e-meeting procedures                                 Information     Carol Kahoun               Protocol

     A 3.   Annual Report 2019                                                   Presentation    Peter Bourne               Annual Report   A 9.    Unit Member report: International Skyrunning Federation (ISF)         Presentation        Silvio Calvi                 Report

            Commission projects and activities, 1st sequence:                                    Peter Farkas                                       Commission and CCC Taskforce projects and activities, 3rd sequence:                       Tarquin Cooper
            Mountaineering Commission                                                            Steve Long                                         Safety Commission                                                                         Amit Chowdhury
            Training Standards                                                                   JJ Ibáñez                                          Ice Climbing Commission                                                                   Carlos Teixeira
                                                                                                                                            A 10.                                                                         Moderated Panel                                  Reports
     A 4.   Access Working Group                                                 Presentations   Martín Pavlos Georgiades   Reports                 Anti-Doping Commission                                                                    Marija Andjekovic
            Youth Commission                                                                     Anne Arran                                         Medical Commission                                                                        Urs Hefti
            Rock Climbing                                                                        Stéphane Lozac’hmeur                               COVID-19 Crisis Consultation Taskforce – update and member feedback                       Françoise Jaquet
            Petzl Foundation                                                                     Arben Lila
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              Continental
                                                                                                                                            A 11.   Continental Reports                                                   Presentations                                    Annual Report
            Finance                                                                                                                                                                                                                           Representatives
                                                                                                                            Results
            Result 2019, auditor’s report and discharge to the Executive Board   Presentation
     A 5.                                                                                        Peter Muir                 Forecast
            Result 2020 forecast                                                 Q&A
                                                                                                                            Budget                  Nominations
            Budget 2021                                                                                                                                                                                                   Presentations
                                                                                                                                                    Candidates for UIAA President
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           Nominees and
            UIAA Strategy                                                                                                                           Candidates for Executive Board                                                            Frits Vrijlandt
                                                                                                                                            A 12.                                                                                                                          re-nominees
     A 6.   Update                                                               Presentation    Lode Beckers               Proposal                Candidates for Management Committee                                                       Tarquin Cooper
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           Candidate files
            Decisions ahead                                                                                                                         Moderated Town Hall – Questions and Answers
                                                                                                                                                                                                                          Presentations Q&A
                                                                                                                                                    Candidates for UIAA President

     A 7.   UIAA Court and Code of Ethics report                                 Information     Pierre Humblet             Annual Report
                                                                                                                                            A13.    Other Business                                                                            All

12                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           13
2020 UIAA GENERAL ASSEMBLY - A GUIDE TO
2020 UIAA General Assembly

Saturday, 24 October 2020

            Item                                                                      Type          Who               Documents               Item                                              Type    Who                         Documents

     1.     Welcome and opening remarks by the UIAA President                                                                                 UIAA Strategy
                                                                                      Information   Frits Vrijlandt                   7.                                                        Votes   Lode Beckers                Proposal
     1.1.   Members present and apologies for absence                                                                                         Decisions items
                                                                                                    Carol Kahoun
     1.2.   Introduction to e-meeting procedures and test vote
                                                                                                    Frits Vrijlandt
     1.3.   Voting rights, declaration of voting members present and majority         Vote                                                    Elections and Nominations
                                                                                                                                              UIAA President
                                                                                                                                      8.                                                        Vote                                Nominees and
     2.     Approval of the agenda                                                    Vote          Frits Vrijlandt   Agenda                  Executive Board members
                                                                                                                                      8.1.                                                      Vote    Frits Vrijlandt             re-nominees
                                                                                                                                              Management Committee members
                                                                                                                                      8.2.                                                      Vote                                Candidate files
     3      Approval of the minutes of the 2019 General Assembly in Larnaca, Cyprus   Vote          Frits Vrijlandt   Minutes
                                                                                                                                      8.3.
                                                                                                                                              Words of Farewell and Thanks
            UIAA President’s report
     4.     (Commissions, Office, Marketing, Communication                                                                            9.      New UIAA President Welcome Address                        UIAA President
                                                                                      Vote          Frits Vrijlandt   Annual Report
            reports: Refer to UIAA 2019 Annual Report )

                                                                                                                                              Future General Assemblies
                                                                                                                                      10.
     5.     UIAA Membership                                                                                                                   GA 2021: 23 October 2021, Trabzon, Turkey         Vote
                                                                                      Vote                            Applications    10.1.                                                                                         Application
                                                                                                                                              (re-confirm host, previously selected for 2020)   Vote    Nils Glatthard
     5.1.   New applicants, change of membership category                                                                             10.2.                                                                                         documents
                                                                                      Information   Lode Beckers                              GA 2022, candidate: Canada                        Vote
     5.2.   Good governance: conflict of interest, signing of declaration                                                             10.3.
                                                                                      Information                     List                    GA 2023, candidate: Malta
     5.3.   Non-payment of membership fees and consequences

                                                                                                                                      11.     Other Business
     6.     Finance
                                                                                      Vote                            Annual Report
     6.1.   Result 2019, auditor’s report and discharge to the Executive Board
                                                                                      Information   Peter Muir        Forecast
     6.2.   Result 2020 forecast
                                                                                      Vote                            Budget
     6.3.   Budget 2021

14                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    15
2020 UIAA GENERAL ASSEMBLY - A GUIDE TO
2020 UIAA General Assembly

             Elections
                                                                        EXECUTIVE BOARD
             PRESIDENT             Amit Chowdhury                       CANDIDATES (2-3 open seats)                                                                               Françoise Jaquet
             CANDIDATES (1 seat)
                                   India                                (**) Re-election                                                                                          Switzerland
                                   Indian Mountaineering Foundation                                                                                                               Swiss Alpine Club (SAC)
©UIAA                              (IMF)                                        Martín Lascano González
                                                                                Central & South America Representative
                                                                                UIAA – Managment Committee

                                                                                Re: UIAA Management Committee Re-nomination

                                                                                                             Amit Chowdhury                                                       Martin Lascano
                                   Peter Farkas                                 Dear collegues,                                                                                   Argentina
                                                                                                             India
                                   Hungary
                                                                                                        Indian Mountaineering                                                     Federaciòn Argentina
                                   Hungarian Mountaineering and Sport                                   Foundation
                                                                                The growth of the practice         (IMF)
                                                                                                           of mountaineering  and its                                             de Ski y Andinismo (FASA)
                                   Climbing Federation (MHSSZ)                  universality is not a coincidence. The advancement of                                                    Name: Wang Yongfeng
                                                                                technology, the media and social networks show us that                                            Date of Birth: 18/10/1963
                                                                                today there are no limits, mountains and their natural
                                                                                environment are increasingly within reach.                                                             Position: Vice President of CMA
                                                                                                                                                                                                    EB Member of UIAA
                                                                                                          Hélène
                                                                                In this constant change, the UIAA mustDenis
                                                                                                                        continue to be the engine to strengthen sports            Wang      Yongfeng
                                                                                                                                                                                    University:     China University of Geosc
                                                                                growth, without neglecting   the natural environment and respecting the values that
                                   Peter Muir                                                             France
                                                                                mountaineering has taught us: Mountaineering ethics, camaraderie, the importance of style
                                                                                                                                                                                    Education: Master of Geology
                                                                                                                                                                                  China
                                                                                                                                                                                      Climbing Finished the 7 continents
                                   Canada                                       and respect, above successFédération Française
                                                                                                           or the summit itself. des Clubs                                        Chinese Mountaineering
                                                                                                                                                                                   Experience: Summits in 12 years
                                                                                                             Alpins et de Montagne (FFCAM) (**)                                   Association (CMA) – Re-election (**)
                                   Alpine Club of Canada
                                                                                These values are what have shaped me as a mountaineer. My passion and commitment to                             Mt. Carstensz Pyramid(5030m
                                                                                the mountains is over 30 years old. Starting with climbing on all types of terrain, on national
                                   (ACC)                                                                                                                                                        Mt. Kilimanjaro(5963m), 1998
                                                                                expeditions and as a mountaineering professor, to continue for the last 20 years as a sports
        16                                                                      manager. Within the mountain club that taught me to climb, in the Argentine Federation                          Mt. Elbrus(5633m), 199717

                                                                                and the UIAA itself, in the Safety Commission and the Management Committee. Where I                             Mt. Aconcagua(6962m), 1994
                                                                                contributed this passion and commitment; and over the years, the experience gained.
2020 UIAA GENERAL ASSEMBLY - A GUIDE TO
2020 UIAA General Assembly

             MANAGEMENT
               Martín Lascano González COMMITTEE                                                                  CANDIDATES (8 open seats)
                                                                                                                                                                                                                          Jean Miczka                                                               Stein Tronstad
             (*) also nominated for EB position / (**) Re-election
                        Central & South America Representative
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    Norway
                        UIAA – Managment Committee
                                                                                                                  Steve Long                                                                                              France
                        Re: UIAA Management Committee Re-nomination
                                        Mountaineering Instructor and International Mountain Guide                                                                                                                        Fédération Française des                                                  Norwegian Climbing Federation (NTK)

                                                        Anne Arran                                                        Martin Lascano *
                                                                                                                 Tan yr Onnen,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                          Clubs Alpins et de Montagne (FFCAM)

                        Dear collegues,                 UK                                                           Brynrefail,
                                                                                                                          Argentina
  01286 871140                         British Mountaineering Council                                              Caernarfon,
                                                                                                                          Federaciòn Argentina
                                       (BMC)
                The growth of the practice  of (**)
                                                mountaineering and its                                              Gwynedd.
                                                                                                                          de Ski y Andinismo (FASA) (**)
  steve.guides@freeuk.com
                        universality is not a coincidence. The advancement of                                       LL 55 3PE                                                                                             Greg Moseley                                                              Reza Zarei
                        technology, the media and social networks show us that
                                                                                                                                                                                                                          South Africa                                                              Iran
 st, 2020               today there are no limits, mountains and their natural
                        environment are increasingly within reach.                                                                                                                                                        Mountain Club of
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    Iran Mountaineering & Sports
                  In this constant change,Kul    Bahadur
                                           the UIAA            Gurung
                                                     must continue to be the engine to strengthen sports                     Steve Long                                                                                   South Africa (MCSA) (**)
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    Climbing Federation (MSFI) (**)
fice              growth, without neglecting
ustrasse 61 Postfach                      Nepalthe natural environment and respecting the values that                        UK
                  mountaineering has taught us: Mountaineering ethics, camaraderie, the importance of style
 Switzerland      and respect, above success or the
                                          Nepal     summit itself.
                                                 Mountaineering                                                              British Mountaineering Council (BMC)
0                                                      Association (NMA)
                                                                                                                                                     I have been President of the MCSA for the last four years and have been on the Management
                    These values are what have shaped me as a mountaineer. My passion and commitment to                                              Committee of the UIAA as the Africa Continental Representative for that same time. I have taken an
and
                    the mountains is over 30 years old. Starting with climbing on all types of terrain, on national                                                                                                        Phil initiative
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 lleagues:          expeditions and as a mountaineering professor, to continue for the last 20 years as a sports                                     complete. I have built up a good network of friends and like-minded   United  States both within and
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                    manager. Within the mountain club that taught me to climb, in the Argentine Federation                                           outside the formal UIAA structures. I am still active in the mountains!
                    andthe
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Annual Report
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     2020 UIAA General Assembly
                                                                                                                                                                                                                The DIGITAL
     Member Associations                                           The online directory of UIAA member associations                                                                                          VERSION of this

     MEMBERSHIP UPDATES
                                                                   can be found here. Members are encouraged to use
                                                                                                                                      2019 EDITION                                                           Annual Report is
                                                                                                                                                                                                                 available at:

                                                                                                                                      PUBLISHED
                                                                   the platform to share details of climbing in their

     Application for membership to the UIAA                        respective countries and regions.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 Contents include:
                                                                                                                                      The UIAA published its 2019 Annual Report in May 2020.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 •   President’s Annual Message
                                                                                                                                      The digital report provides easier access to key resources – such as
                      Costarican Federation of                           National Adventure Association of
                                                                                                                                      UIAA news articles, video content and online resources.
                      Mountain Sports (FECODEM)                          Malaysia                                                                                                                                                •   A Review of 2019

                                                                                                                                      A printed version of the report will be distributed to UIAA member
                      has applied to change its Observer                 has applied to change its Observer Membership (as of 2015)                                                                                              •   UIAA General Assembly 2019
                      Membership (as of 2019) to Full Membership         to Full Membership                                           associations over the coming weeks and months.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 •   UIAA Strategy Process
                      http://www.fecodem.org/                            https://www.facebook.com/KEMBARANEGARA/
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 •   UIAA Financial Report
                      Federación Mexicana de
                                                                         Saudi Climbing &                                                                                                                                        •   Details on UIAA member associations
                      Deportes de Montaña y
                                                                         Hiking Federation
                      Escalada A.C.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 •   UIAA Office, Communication &
                                                                         has applied for Full Membership
                      has applied for Full Membership                                                                                                                                                                                Sponsorship reports
                                                                         https://climbing.sa/
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 •   Reports from every UIAA Commission
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     (Access, Anti-Doping, Ice Climbing,
                      Mountain Club of Western Caspian
                      University, Azerbaijan                             International Commission for Alpine                                                                                                                         MedCom, Mountaineering + Training,
                                                                         Rescue (ICAR)                                                                                                                                               Mountain Protection, Safety, Youth) as
                      has applied for Associate Membership
                                                                         has applied for Observer Membership                                                                                                                         well as the UIAA Rock Climbing Working

                      https://www.wcu.edu.az/                                                                                                                                                                                        Group and Unit Member, International
                                                                         http://www.alpine-rescue.org/
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     Skyrunning Federation.

20                                                                                                                                                                                                                               •   Reports from the UIAA Continental bodies21
2019
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                               2020 UIAA General Assembly

                                                                                                                                          UIAA Strategy Process

  CARBON FOOTPRINT                                                                                                                        AN UPDATE                                                                                                Next Steps

  REPORT                                                                                                                                  The first Strategic Plan of the UIAA for the 21st Century covered the period between 2012
                                                                                                                                          - 2016. The plan was revised in 2014 in order to clarify some goals and to ensure that the
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   •   The UIAA Management
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       Committee (MC) and Commission
  At the close of 2019, and as part of its commitment to tackling climate change                                                          objectives were in accordance with the so-called SMART criteria (Specific, Measurable,                       Presidents are reviewing the
                                                                                                                                          Assignable, Realistic, Time-bound).                                                                          proposal and providing feedback.
  and reducing its own CO2 emissions, the UIAA published its first annual
                                                                                                                                          The next Strategic Plan was drawn up for the years   In the months following the meetings in             •   An additional MC online meeting
  Carbon Footprint Calculation.                                                                                                                                                                                                                        will take place on 26 September
                                                                                                                                          2017 - 2020. It defined the goals the UIAA sought    Cyprus, the UIAA Executive Board presented
                                                                                                                                          to achieve by 2020, based on member surveys and      to the Management Committee and to                      to further discuss and recommend
  This report, covering 2018, outlines the ongoing results of monitoring and reporting of the UIAA’s carbon
                                                                                                                                          a SWOT analysis. For the years 2017 – 2020, it has   the   Commission     Presidents   an   updated          the proposal to the GA. At the
  footprint, which is in response to its signed commitment in early 2019 and participation under the United
                                                                                                                                          served as a basis for UIAA Commissions to prepare    formulation of the UIAA’s vision, objectives            same meeting, the MC will review
  Nations Framework Convention on Climate Change (UNFCCC) Sports for Climate Action. As a participant in this                                                                                                                                          Commission projects and activities
                                                                                                                                          their own plans and for the UIAA to work towards     and role. Carried by the expertise which went
  initiative, the UIAA is required and expected to adhere to five principles these being:                                                                                                                                                              and discuss amended Commission
                                                                                                                                          those goals.                                         into the preparation of the ‘UIAA of the 21st
                                                                                                                                                                                               Century’ report, the resulting document is a            Regulations.
  •   Principle 1: Undertake systematic efforts to promote greater environmental responsibility;                                          To prepare the UIAA strategy for the years after
                                                                                                                                                                                               compilation of the input received up to now
                                                                                                                                          2020, a number of documents were drawn                                                                   •   After the 26 September MC
  •   Principle 2: Reduce overall climate impact;                                                                                                                                              from the various bodies of the UIAA. The new
                                                                                                                                          up, developing a new strategy for the UIAA,                                                                  meeting, the Strategy Proposal
                                                                                                                                                                                               formulation is condensed in the short-form
                                                                                                                                          assessing every aspect of the international                                                                  will be added to the GA supporting
  •   Principle 3: Educate for climate action;                                                                                                                                                 document currently being discussed.
                                                                                                                                          federation, its activities and the support                                                                   documents.

  •   Principle 4: Promote sustainable and responsible consumption; and                                                                   provided to its members. Ahead of the 2019           The proposed reworded objectives were
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   •   Members are invited to
                                                                                                                                          UIAA Management Committee meeting and                approved at meetings of the Executive Board,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       contribute before and – of course –
  •   Principle 5: Advocate for climate action through communication.                                                                     the General Assembly in Cyprus, a Strategic          but they will be presented for further discussion
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       during the GA
                                                                                                                                          Working Group (SWG) published their findings         to Management Committee members, to the
  The Carbon Footprint report for 2019, which is based on a more sophisticated and extensive methodology
                                                                                                                                          and recommendations in a report called ‘The          UIAA Commissions, to former SWG members,            •   Please refer to page 37-38 of the
  than the 2018 report and takes onboard feedback from UIAA members and the UIAA Mountain
                                                                                                                                     ns   UIAA of the 21st Century’.                           and to the GA-voting federations.                       2019 UIAA Annual Report.
                                                                                                                                 itio
22 Protection Commission, will be published before this year’s General Assembly.
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                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             2020 UIAA General Assembly

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                                                                                                            Management Committee & Executive Board

                                                                                                            The UIAA Management Committee was due to            The Portal has proved to be one of the most            As the pandemic evolved, the UIAA focused

                           UIAA in 2020                                                                     host its in-person meeting in North Macedonia       successful initiatives launched by the UIAA in         more on common themes and answering
                                                                                                            in May. This was cancelled and replaced,            recent times, bringing significant traffic to the      more global questions. Dedicated articles

                           UIAA
                                                                                                            for the first time, by an online meeting. The       federation’s website and acting as a precious          were produced regarding the opening of
                                                                                                            format proved successful with more delegates        guide and reference point through these                huts in Europe, worldwide travel restrictions
                                                                                                                                                                troubled times.                                        and where people could climb. There was

                           DURING
                                                                                                            attending than otherwise would have made
                                                                                                            the in-person meeting, particularly those from                                                             also specific information on climbing during
                                                                                                                                                                Initially the focus of the Portal was on supplying     Covid-19, regulations to follow particularly in
                                                                                                            outside of Europe. There was also a follow

                           COVID-19
                                                                                                                                                                updates from individual UIAA members. The              relation to equipment and climbing with other

                                                                                                        y
                                                                                                            up Management Committee meeting and an

                                                                                                   ar
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                                                                                                   ck                                                           pandemic has impacted different parts of the world

                                                                                               Li
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                                                                                               o                                                                                                                       people.
                                                                                        ©                   online meeting of all Commission Presidents.
                                                                                                                                                                at different times. Learnings from initial outbreaks
                                                                                                            During the virtual MC meetings, it was decided                                                             The platform also offered an insight into the
                                                                                                                                                                in Asia and then in Europe proved crucial for
                                                                                                            that the 2020 UIAA General Assembly would                                                                  impact on UIAA Commissions and the progress
                                                                                                                                                                countries yet to be impacted.
     The current pandemic has had a profound impact on everybody’s lives. For international                 be held online. A first for the federation in its                                                          of work. For example, both the UIAA Rock
     organisations like the UIAA – International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation –                   near 90-year history. In an effort to ensure the    The UIAA has published over 70 articles                Climbing Festival Award and UIAA Mountain
     significant changes to the way the federation has communicated and operated have been                  UIAA remains efficient and meets its targets,                                                              Protection Award were postponed until 2021.
                                                                                                                                                                from members in 45 countries. Over half its
     implemented in the context of an ever-evolving situation.                                              the UIAA EB has held virtual meetings on an                                                                Other Commissions, like the Training Panel,
                                                                                                            even more regular basis than pre-pandemic.          membership has contributed to the platform.            used the lockdown period when outdoor
     The   UIAA’s      response   to   Covid-19 was   only when conditions allowed towards the                                                                  Members were able to use the platform                        activity was not possible to work on new

                                                                                                            Covid-19 Portal                                                                                                                   literature and material.
     proactive and has taken on many different        end of June. The UIAA is accustomed to                                                                    to share learning, general rules and
     aspects. Below is a breakdown of some of the     agile working so there was no great cultural          One of the UIAA’s first tasks was to direct all     regulations and approaches to
     key initiatives and changes:                     change in terms of the working environment.           Covid-19 related updates to a dedicated             dealing with issues such as
                                                      The Office held weekly catch up meetings              website Portal. Like similar bodies, whether in
                                                                                                                                                                huts, climbing gyms, access
     Office                                           with all members of the team to ensure                the sports world or NGOs, the UIAA’s exclusive
                                                                                                            focus was on the impact of Covid-19 on its          and implementing social
     From mid-March, staff at the UIAA Office in      regular communication and the delivery of
                                                                                                            operations, projects and on its membership.         distancing.
     Bern, Switzerland worked remotely, returning     key projects.
24                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       25
2020 UIAA General Assembly

     The Portal also acted as a forum to share core   professionals), this group has been able to         on three continents and athletes from nearly
     information from wider climbing media –          provide leadership on a number of subjects          30 countries, the Mountain Protection Award
     including mental and physical health articles    as the nature of the pandemic evolves. Each         and Commission projects which require
     and general opinion pieces on the economic       meeting addresses the situation across a            physical meetings and workshops, are key
     impact of Covid-19 the climbing world.           number of different countries with reports and      considerations for the coming months.
                                                      findings shared on the UIAA website.
                                                                                                          The UIAA has welcomed initiatives such as the
     CCC Taskforce                                    Initiatives to come out of the meetings include     one recently put in place by the Mountain Club of
     At their 7 April e-meeting, members of the       a dedicated UIAA position statement on              South Africa (MCSA) to run online seminars and
     UIAA Executive Board unanimously decided         responsible climbing, an online form for UIAA       workshops, through the UIAA, to foster a greater
     to create a Covid-19 Crisis Consultation (CCC)   members to address concerns and share               sense of community. The UIAA will continue to
     Taskforce. Its mission was to provide fast       news, a donation/fundraising resource as well       encourage this kind of concept to help bring the
     responses to queries and Covid-19-related        as articles on core subjects of interest – access   climbing world closer together.
     issues which may arise in the coming months.     to huts, general rules for returning to sport                                                           Your resource for all
                                                                                                          The UIAA understands that the current
     The CCC enabled the UIAA to have a dedicated     and the mountains.
                                                                                                                                                              communication related to
     structure in place. When approached, the                                                             pandemic will have a significant impact on its
     UIAA would be able to provide swift answers                                                          members whether in retaining and attracting         Climbing and Covid-19:
                                                      Future
     and guidance, mainly by promptly referring                                                           their own members, on sport competitions,           https://www.theuiaa.org/covid-19/
     the question for consultation to a government    Mass in-person international meetings are           safety and training programmes, sustainability
     authority, to a crisis management body, to a     unlikely to take place in the near future           initiatives, sponsorship and donations, huts
     competent national federation or to a relevant                                                       and tourism. The UIAA itself will have to
                                                      meaning, as a global organisation, the UIAA
     UIAA Commission.                                                                                     absorb the consequences of the current
                                                      anticipates conducting its affairs online for the   pandemic while continuing to fully represent
     By late August, the CCC Taskforce had held                                                           and support its members at a global level.
                                                      foreseeable future.

                                                                                                                                                                                             Ré
     four online meetings. With the support

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     of experts from different UIAA areas (EB,        The impact on UIAA projects such as the UIAA        For everything related to the UIAA and Covid-

                                                                                                                                                                                                  ud
                                                                                                                                                                                                    ing
     MC, Commissions and well as medical              Ice Climbing World Tour, with competitions          19 please click here.

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2020 UIAA General Assembly

                                                                                                                     Mountain ranges are often the natural                of the topography and the difficulties in         created around the world in border regions
                                                                                                                     borders between countries. The                       recognising, for example, the watersheds
                                                                                                                                                                                                                            and these are having a positive impact on
                                                                                                                     demarcation of borders in such remote and            that can be the most logical border. In some
                                                                                                                                                                          instances, tectonic forces have led to streams    environmental conservation, human activity
                                                                                                                     difficult geography can be contentious.
                                                                                                                     This has led on occasion to diplomatic               and rivers apparently ignoring the laws of        and allowing the free transit of people across
                                                                                                                     disputes with these border issues often              geomorphology by cutting through great
                                                                                                                                                                                                                            international borders in wild areas of the world.
                                                                                                                     dating back to colonial times. The United            mountain ranges. In others, the source of
                                                                                                                                                                          these drainages is complicated by the source      Examples spring to mind in Southern Africa

                                                             UIAA
                                                                                                                     Nations Security Council recently issued a
                                                                                                                                                                          being great masses of ice with no definite,       and in Europe. Therefore, it seems logical that
                                                                                                                     call for countries to “redouble their efforts
                                                                                                                                                                          natural watershed being evident – as was the
                                                                                                                     for peace” during this period of combating                                                             transnational parks could be created in many

                                                             STATEMENT
                                                                                                                                                                          case in Patagonia.
                                                                                                                     the coronavirus pandemic that has                                                                      of the mountain ranges of the world.
                                                                                                                     already claimed more than half a million             The UIAA appreciates that often mountain
                                                                                                                                                                                                                            The UIAA is a global body of mountain
                                                             Conservation of                                         lives.                                               areas are of great geostrategic importance
                                                                                                                                                                                                                            organisations dedicated to promoting safe,
                                                                                                                                                                          but as climbers and mountain travellers, we
                                                             Transnational Mountain Areas                            In these sometimes tense border situations,
                                                                                                                                                                          consider all mountain areas to be a great         responsible access to mountains and to the
                                                                                                                     there are inevitably social and economic                                                               protection and conservation of the world’s
                                                                                                                                                                          resource for the uplifting of the human spirit.
                                                                                                                     impacts on local communities for whom these                                                            mountain ranges. We believe that the creation
                                                                                                                                                                          They are fundamental to the very being and

     15/07
                                                                                                                     areas are their traditional homes and provide                                                          of trans-border protected areas could provide
                                                                                                                                                                          existence of local communities, but are also
                                                                                                                     their livelihood. In addition, access restrictions
                                                                                                                                                                          deeply valued by people around the globe.         a space for cross border peaceful engagement
                                                             This statement was initiated by the international       result in these areas being “locked up” and
                                                                                                                                                                          The UIAA in large part, exists to promote         as well as support for local communities
                                                             network of organisations and climbers who form and      not accessible for critical conservation and
                                                                                                                                                                          the sustainable use of mountain areas for         through the economic opportunities provided
                                                             support the UIAA High Mountains Working Group           climate change research or for access by
                                                                                                                                                                          recreation in the true sense of that word         by mountain tourism. People should not
     On 15 July, the UIAA published                          and has benefitted from the comments and expertise      mountaineers and mountain travellers.
                                                                                                                                                                          – re-creation. It is sad therefore that some      be excluded from such natural areas – there
     the following statement                                 of members of the UIAA Management Committee,            The UIAA – International Climbing and                mountain ranges have been, and are, the           are examples from all over the world.
                                                       h
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                                                             Commission Presidents and Commission delegates.         Mountaineering Federation – appreciates that         scenes of dispute.                                Transnational parks in mountain border areas
                                                 udi

     concerning the conservation of
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                                                                                                                     border areas often have a problematic and                                                              are an opportunity on a number of fronts, not
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     transnational mountain areas.                           The UIAA Executive Board wish to confirm its support
                                                                                                                     disputed historical context. The demarcation         Reflecting this deeper value to humankind         least to embrace and support the elevation of
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                                                             for the initiative and the content of this statement.
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                                                                                                                     may be complicated by the complexity                 a number of transnational parks have been         the wider human spirit.
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                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   2020 UIAA General Assembly

     IMPACT ON UIAA ICE CLIMBING WORLD TOUR

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              /Ka
                                                                                                                                                               Continental competitions will be held in Asia,

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                                                                                                                                                               Europe and North America with new meets to be

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     rhalle
                                                                                                                                                               held in Canada, the Netherlands, the USA – these
     RELEASE OF PROVISIONAL 2020-2021 UIAA ICE CLIMBING CALENDAR

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        sl
                                                                                                                                                               events are an ideal platform for young climbers
                                                                                                                                                               and competition newcomers.
     Sixteen events in thirteen countries currently form the provisional
     calendar for the 2020-2021 UIAA Ice Climbing World Tour                                                                                                   The release of the calendar provides athletes with
                                                                                                                                                               the opportunity to start tentatively planning their
     partnered by Outdoor Research. However the developing Covid-19                                                                                            own seasons and offers a timely incentive for their
     situation may force significant changes                                                                                                                   training preparations. Like many other athletes,
                                                                                                                                                               they have had to adapt both their professional
     Ranging    from    the   pinnacle   of   the    return to Champagny-en-Vanoise in the                                                                     careers and training schedules during the Covid-
                                                                                                                                     Rob Adie                  19 pandemic.
     competition arm of ice climbing – the           French Alps. The World Championships
                                                                                                                                     UIAA Sports Events
                                                     will be held in Saas-Fee, Switzerland the                                       Coordinator               Dates in the calendar are provisional and the
     biennial   UIAA    Ice   Climbing     World
                                                     weekend after and for the first time with the                                                             evolution of the Covid-19 pandemic will also have
     Championships – through to Continental
                                                     inclusion of the World Championships in         The Covid-19 situation in many of the UIAA Ice            a direct impact on the feasibility of hosting, and
     Cups, the calendar offers a more extensive
                                                     the Combined discipline in addition to the
                                                                                                     Climbing World Cup host countries remains a               travelling to, international competitions. The UIAA
     World Cup programme than last season            regular lead and speed events. The World
                                                                                                     concern, as do international travel restrictions.         is putting in place criteria for events to take place
     and increased opportunities for young           Cup season resumes in North America with
                                                                                                                                                               and is in regular contact with all stakeholders
                                                                                                     The UIAA Office and Ice Climbing Commission
                                                     a potential date in Montreal and closes in
     climbers to establish a pathway in the sport.                                                                                                             and following the advice of the World Health
                                                     Kirov, Russia home of the 2019 UIAA Ice         are currently working on contingency plans for an
                                                                                                                                                               Organisation    (WHO)     and    the   International
     The World Cup component of the season           Climbing World Championships.                   alternative 2021 Ice Climbing World Tour – which
                                                                                                                                                               Olympic Committee (IOC). The UIAA criteria
     currently features five events. Starting
                                                                                                     will be published just after the GA in October. The
     with two competitions in Asia, repeating        The other major event – the annual UIAA                                                                   can be downloaded here. Please note that this
                                                                                                     provisional calendar is likely to be subject to massive   document is subject to change.
     2020’s visit to Changchun City (China, to       Ice Climbing World Youth Championships
     be confirmed) and Cheongsong (South             – is scheduled to take place in Tyumen, the     changes with it seemingly very difficult to run any
                                                                                                                                                               For the very latest on the UIAA Ice Climbing            Promo: 2020-21 UIAA Ice Climbing Calendar
30
     Korea). The first European stop sees a          first Russian settlement in Siberia.            sort of World Tour in 2021.                               World Tour and Covid-19 please click here.              https://youtu.be/Z-IX8jLotow                                       31
2020 UIAA General Assembly
                                                                                                                                                                                RECALLS AND WARNINGS

     SAFETY                                                                                                                                                                     Reports of recalls, equipment failures and warnings – published by
                                                                                                                                                                                manufacturers – are charted on the Recalls database.                          Climber Skills, Advice & Videos
     Safety Resources For                                                                                                                                                       https://www.theuiaa.org/safety-standards/recalls/                             The UIAA has put together a number of
     Climbing Community                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       resources related to climber safety. These include

                                                                                                                                                                                SAFETY LABEL HOLDERS
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              belay skills videos, in partnership with
     The UIAA provides
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              the German Alpine Club (DAV), guides to
     a number of safety                                                                                                                                                         Climbers can quickly view which climbing gear and equipment
                                                                                                                                                                                manufacturers are UIAA Safety Label accredited. Currently there are 76        purchasing climbing equipment online, wider
     services for members,                                                                                                                                                      companies from 21 countries.
                                                               UIAA SAFETY PORTAL                                                                                                                                                                             advice on climbing gear as well as the Skills
     and by extension                                                                                                                                                           https://www.theuiaa.org/uiaa-safety-label/safety-label-holders/
                                                               The landing page for all UIAA Safety                                                                                                                                                           series run by the UIAA Training Panel.
     the wider climbing                                        topics has recently been revised.
     community.                                                https://www.theuiaa.org/safety/
                                                                                                                                                                                SAFETY STANDARDS
     Below is a reminder
                                                               This portal provides direct access to
     of some of the key                                                                                                                                                         The full list of all 24 UIAA Safety Standards can be found on the dedicated
                                                               all of the areas detailed below.
                                                                                                                                                                                page.
     assets.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  Contact UIAA SafeCom
                                                                                                                                                                                https://www.theuiaa.org/safety-standards/                                     Details on the UIAA Safety Commission can be
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              found here:

     UIAA SAFETY LABEL                            CERTIFIED EQUIPMENT                                                             MISUSE                                        ACCREDITED LABORATORIES                                                       https://www.theuiaa.org/safety-standards/

     A brief history of the UIAA Safety Label     Climbers can check for gear which has been                                      This resource was launched in the summer of   Companies interested in sending equipment for testing to UIAA Safety          To apply for the UIAA Safety Label please fill in the
     and details regarding its relevance to       fully certified according to stringent UIAA Safety                              2020. Its purpose is to report unauthorised                                                                                 following form.
                                                                                                                                                                                Standards can view the list of UIAA accredited laboratories, currently 19
     the climbing world can be found on the       Standards. This database is updated in real-time.                               use and breaches of the UIAA Safety Label.
     dedicated page.                                                                                                                                                            companies from eight countries.                                               For all questions related to Safety please contact the
                                                  h t t p s : / /w w w. t h e u i a a . o r g /s a f e t y - s t a n d a rd s /   https://www.theuiaa.org/uiaa-safety-label/                                                                                  UIAA Safety Label team.
     https://www.theuiaa.org/uiaa-safety-label/   certified-equipment/                                                            misuse/                                       https://www.theuiaa.org/uiaa-safety-label/accredited-laboratories/
32                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     33
ALPINE SUMMER SKILLS HANDBOOK
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          2020 UIAA General Assembly

                                                                                                                                                               •   Czech: translation with the Czech Mountain         Translations in progress
                                                                                                                                                                   Leader Association, in accordance with Jan
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      Almost done:
     Update on Progress of UIAA Alpine Handbooks                                                                                                                   Bloudek, from the Czech Mountaineering                                                                    For further details on
                                                                                                                                                                   Association. Published in 2019                                                                            the UIAA’s training
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      •   Mongolian: Mongolian National Climbing
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             programmes and
     The annual update on the progress of the UIAA Summer Skills Alpine Handbook, produced in collaboration                                                                                                               Federation
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             materials please click
                                                                                                                                                               •   Korean: Korean Alpine Club. Published in
     with The Petzl Foundation, will be provided during the GA. Below is a summary of the progress made in                                                         2017.                                              •   Chinese      (Taiwan):      Chinese   Taipei       here.
     recent years and a reminder of how members can get involved and best use the resource.                                                                                                                               Mountaineering Association
                                                                                                                                                               •   Turkish: the first translation after the English
     The original book ‘Memento’ was produced in French before being               section has been completely rewritten by expert meteorologists. The             one. Printed in 2017.                              •   Iranian (Farsi): Iran Mountaineering and
                                                                                                                                                                                                                          Sport Climbing Federation                      Purchase:
     translated into English and then in several other languages following         chapter on leader-placed protection has been expanded, following
                                                                                                                                                               •   English: Translation by the Canadian Alpine                                                           Alpine Handbook
     agreements with UIAA member associations. Print versions are available        feedback from UIAA honorary member Reinhold Messner. Advanced bulk
                                                                                                                                                                   Club (ACC) in 2015.                                In progress:
     exclusively through UIAA members.                                             orders are invited from member organisations, to minimise delivery costs.
                                                                                                                                                               •   French: First version of the Handbook,             •   Macedonian: Mountaineering Federation
                                                                                   A Canyoning chapter is also being produced for - currently it is only in
     Reminder: Purchase Digital Handbook                                                                                                                           the “Memento” was created by the Petzl                 of North Macedonia
                                                                                   French. It will be translated by the Canadian Alpine Club (ACC).
     The digital version of the English translation can be purchased online                                                                                        Foundation in 2013.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      •   Indonesian: Indonesia Sport Climbing and
     here. Prices are subject to exchange rate changes. The book can currently                                                                                                                                            Mountaineering Federation
                                                                                   Creation of Winter Skills Handbook
     be downloaded for less than five euros (a little over five USD). The guide                                                                                Almost published
     was developed specifically as a reference document for trip leaders and       A Winter Skills Handbook could soon be launched, in collaboration with                                                             •   Catalan and Spanish: Federació d’Entitats
                                                                                                                                                               •   Romanian: Alexandru Paun, President of the
     instructors of club and federations within the UIAA – an aide memoire         the ACC and the Petzl Foundation.                                                                                                      Excursionistes De Catalunya (FEEC)
                                                                                                                                                                   Romanian Alpin Club (CAR) and UIAA Ice
     for climbers and mountaineers who attend training courses delivered by
     instructors and guides who have gained qualifications accredited by the                                                                                       Climbing Commission member, has worked             •   Greek: Pavlos Georgiades, UIAA Youth
                                                                                   Languages already published                                                     on the Romanian edition. The book will be              Commission President, proposed translating
     UIAA.
                                                                                   •   Japanese: Japan Mountaineering and Climbing Federation. Printed             printed this autumn.                                   the document with the Mountaineering,
                                                                                       this year. See article.                                                                                                            Climbing and Orienteering Federation of
     Alpine Summer Skills Handbook: New Content                                                                                                                •   Albanian: Translation by Arben Lila and
                                                                                                                                                                                                                          Cyprus (KOMOAAP)                               To purchase the DIGITAL VERSION of the
     A new English language edition of the Alpine Skills Handbook is almost        •   Serbian: Nenad Dikic, former President of the UIAA Anti-Doping              Teuta Bicaj / Kosovo Mountaineering and                                                               UIAA Alpine Skills Handbook (in English),
     ready for print publication. This contains significant additions, including       Commission, worked with students on a translation into Serbian.             Alpinist Federation. Almost finished, should       •   Arabic: Jordan Tourism Board started work      including any future updates to the digital
     new sections on GPS navigation and summer avalanche. The weather                  Published in 2019.                                                          be printed soon.                                       but this is currently on “hold”.               version, click here.

34                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 35
ons
                                                                                                                                                                                                                        2020 UIAA General Assembly

                 diti
              xpe
           les E
        ra j a
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  PAST MPA WINNERS

          G
      to:
                                                                                                  UIAA Mountain Protection Award

     Pho
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  •   2019
                                                                                                  Following consultation between various parties          whom have many other priorities and concerns                Swiss Alpine Club
                                                                                                  – Mountain Protection Commission (MPC)                                                                              Switzerland
                                                                                                                                                          at present,” explains Dr Carolina Adler, MP
                                                                                                  delegates, the Award Assessment Team, the
                                                                                                                                                          Commission President.                                   •   2018
                                                                                                  UIAA Executive Board, UIAA Office and                                                                               Community Action Nepal
                                                                                                  main sponsor Bally – the UIAA MPC took the              “Equally we need to respect limitations on travel to        UK
                                                                                                  decision in May to postpone the evaluation and          the mountains for non-essential purposes as many

                 UIAA ANNUAL AWARDS
                                                                                                  prize designation for the 2020 UIAA Mountain            of the projects showcased as part of the MPA require    •   2017
                                                                                                  Protection Award to 2021.                                                                                           Mount Everest Biogas
                                                                                                                                                          ongoing physical presence in mountain regions.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      Project
                                                                                                                                                          Furthermore, the 2020-2021 Award will provide a
                                                                                                  The application portal – live since 1 March – remains                                                               USA
                 The UIAA General Assembly is normally the occasion                               open for proponents to submit projects and
                                                                                                                                                          platform to help aid the recovery and regeneration
                                                                                                                                                          of many projects significantly impacted by the
                 where the Mountain Protection Award and Rock Climbing                            initiatives for the 2020-2021 Award. Assessment                                                                 •   2016
                                                                                                                                                          current crisis.”                                            Mountain Wilderness
                 Festival Award are both presented. Owing to Covid-19, the                        will commence in mid-2021 and the Award winner
                                                                                                  announced at the 2021 UIAA General Assembly,                                                                        France
                 2020 editions of both UIAA platforms have been extended                                                                                  The UIAA will continue to showcase the Mountain
                                                                                                  currently scheduled for the autumn of that year. The    Protection Award throughout 2020 and early 2021.        •   2015
                 into 2021.                                                                       deadline to submit applications will be confirmed       An upcoming communication series will share                 KTK-BELT Studio
                                                                                                  at a later date.
                                                                                                                                                          information on the progress made by past winners            Nepal
                 UIAA Rock Climbing Festival Award                                                                                                        of the Award in fulfilling their goals and ambitions.
                                                                                                  “After several online meetings and exchanges,                                                                   •   2014
                                                                                                                                                          Part of the platform’s very core is to support and
                 The 2020 Award was scheduled to open in March 2020 and welcome                   the decision to postpone the Award to 2021              follow the progress of nominees and provide
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      Pamir Horse Adventure
                 applications from festivals in Oceania and South-East Asia. The Award has been                                                                                                                       Tajikistan
                                                                                                  has been taken to demonstrate our solidarity to         inspiration for tangible actions and initiatives that
                 postponed until 2021. Application opens in the spring.                                                                                   can be taken to see better outcomes for mountain        •   2013
                                                                                                  UIAA members, partners and those organising
                                                                                                                                                          regions worldwide, not least given the need to              Menz-Guassa Community
                 For further information please contact rockclimbing@theuiaa.org or visit the     mountain-based     sustainability   projects   during   prioritise new development models in light of this          Conservation Area
                 dedicated pages on the UIAA website.                                             this unprecedented global pandemic. All of              pandemic.                                                   Ethiopia
36                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             37
2020 UIAA General Assembly

     UIAA COMMISSIONS                                                                                                                                          MedCom planned to hold a short meeting in
                                                                                                                                                               June 2020 alongside the International Society
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  in May 2020, the Commission with its main
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  partner Bally agreed to extend the 2020 MPA to
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                         Mountaineering
     Progress in 2020                                                                                                                                          for Mountain Medicine (ISMM) Congress in           2021 and accept applications throughout. The           Peter Farkas

                                                                                                                                                               Interlaken, Switzerland. Whilst the congress       adapted timeline will be published by the end
     UIAA Commission Presidents will present progress made in 2020, and in the context of Covid-19, during the                                                                                                                                                           A full review of projects is ongoing including the
                                                                                                                                                               and the adjacent meeting were cancelled, the       of August 2020. A remarkable effort has gone
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                         accident report project (closed down, data to
     General Assembly. To aide delegate preparations for the Plenary Session, brief details of Commission work                                                 Commission invested time and resources in          into drafting and finalising a Memorandum of
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                         be analysed); ISO certificate project and a Style
     from the publication of the 2019 Annual Report to August 2020 are provided below.                                                                         joining the CCC Taskforce. The remainder of        Understanding with UN Environment. As a first
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                         and Ethics initiative, which will focus on a review,
                                                                                                                                                               the year will be used to lay out future work and   output, the MPC together with UN Environment
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                         and potential face lift, of some existing UIAA
                                                      closely monitored. The UIAA has published             Medical                                            projects of the Commission. Alongside the          and IFMGA will hold a workshop to update the
     Anti-Doping                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                         declarations.
                                                      specific criteria in relation to the hosting of                                                          regular updating of MedCom recommendations,        standing Environmental Guidelines.
     Maria Andjelkovic                                events. An online Commission meeting was held         Urs Hefti                                          the Commission aims to publish an advice papers
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                         The Mountaineering Commission also has two
                                                      on 9-10 May. Amongst other subjects, the                                                                                                                    Based on the signed commitment to adhere to
                                                                                                                                                               on water and one on women in the mountains in
     Given the current freezing of competition        Commission discussed the negative impact              Since his election as President at the spring                                                                                                                sub-groups, Access and Training.
                                                                                                                                                               the coming years. Furthermore, a combination       a set of five principles under the UNFCCC Sport
     sport, any in-competition testing has been       that the cancellation of events has had in the        MC in 2019, Urs Hefti has focused on the
                                                                                                                                                               of meeting and medical training are planned for    For Climate Action Framework, the Mountain
     put on hold. Out of competition testing may      past and will seek to rectify this issue in the       restructuring of the Commission and its                                                                                                                      Access
     continue. The Commission is primarily focusing   future.                                               activities and has called for UIAA member          2022 in Africa.                                    Protection Commission works on systematically
     on compliance with the upcoming changes                                                                federations to provide greater clarity regarding                                                      displaying climate leaderships on the UIAA’s path      Juan Jesus Ibanez Martin
                                                      The Commission also discussed its future and is
     to   WADA      (World   Anti-Doping   Agency)                                                          the work they would like MedCom to focus on        Mountain Protection                                to carbon neutrality. A first step has been achieved
                                                      currently in the process of resetting its strategic                                                                                                                                                                The main priority is the Access WG’s integration
     regulations.                                                                                           (notably recommendation papers).                                                                      in calculating the UIAA’s carbon footprint. The
                                                      goals and developing a structure which will                                                              Carolina Adler
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  Commission now aims at providing guidelines            into the Mountaineering Commission. Access will
                                                      ensure adequate human resourcing across all
     Ice Climbing                                     of its projects. Furthermore, this will guarantee
                                                                                                            The   Commission,     with   the   support   of
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                         also be an increasingly important and contentious
                                                                                                                                                               The 2020 UIAA Mountain Protection Award , and      for events and activities of the UIAA in the form
                                                                                                            some new members, published a paper in
     Carlos Teixeira                                  that strategic goals can be developed                                                                    Respect the Mountains (RTM) The 2020 UIAA          of a climate mitigation policy, which encourages       issue when lockdown rules are relaxed or adapted
                                                                                                            2020 ‘Preacclimatisation for expeditions to
                                                      and pushed forward by members of the                                                                                                                                                                               in different countries. The UIAA continues to
                                                                                                            extreme altitude’. It tackles the subjects of      Mountain Protection Award, and Respect the         to avoid, reduce, substitute, and compensate for
     The 2019-2020 UIAA Ice Climbing World Tour       Commission who are motivated and have the
                                                                                                            Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) prevention           Mountains (RTM) Movement were launched             emissions created by the UIAA as an insitution         monitor issues related to Everest (Covid-19 has
     concluded before lockdown. However, the          skill sets required to achieve these objectives
     impact on next season’s calendar, which was      towards the continued future development of           and    intermittent    normobaric      hypoxia     in the beginning of the year. Both were put on     and report on these results as part of the UIAA’s      stopped progress) and Kilimanjaro (currently no
     published in July (see pages 30-31), is being    ice climbing.                                         preacclimatisation and can be viewed here.         hold due to Covid-19. During its virtual meeting   commitment on taking climate action.                   updates).

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