2012 2019 The Sustainable Clothing Action Plan - 2020 Commitment - Wrap
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The Sustainable 2012 - Clothing Action Plan 2019 2020 Commitment Report on Progress November | 2020
Vision / Targets / Focus on Focus on Focus on Working Behaviour Re-use & Extending Sustainability What What’s
Commitment Results Carbon Water Waste Collaboratively Change Re-cycling Clothing Life Metrics Difference? Next?
Foreword
To create a world where This year’s annual review of the Sustainable Pioneering businesses began this
Clothing Action Plan (SCAP) is of marked journey together in 2012, together with
resources are used importance. 2020 is the final year of governments, knowledge partners and
sustainably requires SCAP and coincides with a period when citizens. SCAP has demonstrated the
the textiles sector faces major business benefits of pre-competitive collaboration
action: sustained, challenges as a result of the pandemic. As since its launch. In 2020, despite the
collaborative action. such, the data collected for this report will ravages of COVID-19, the priority now
reflect the last year in which signatories must be to ensure continuity of the global
were operating as normal. climate effort and the UK’s place within it.
We urgently need the whole UK fashion
There is therefore an opportunity to and textiles sector to come together, both
reflect back on the progress that has by implementing a ‘target, measure, act’
been made since 2012. The data show Marcus Gover,
approach, and sharing our expertise and
we have delivered tangible reductions in CEO, WRAP
resource to transform this sector into a
carbon, water and waste. Together we are circular success story.
exceeding the SCAP targets for carbon
and water. However, the slower progress We thank signatories, advisors, funders and
on textile waste makes it clear we have no colleagues for the commitment and energy
cause for resting on our laurels. As SCAP they have given to SCAP. We now need to
draws to a close, it’s time to renew our bring our combined voices to the table when
efforts and build on its legacy - to harness governments are agreeing priorities for
what we’ve learned and take action with the textiles sector in the UK - to inspire our
increasing urgency during the next ten customers to buy differently, and to develop
years. It is time for a fundamental shift away new business models to build a sustainable,
from a ‘take, make, dispose’ textiles model flourishing new sector, a prosperous
to a more sustainable, circular future. UK economy and a planet fit for future
generations.
WRAP | Sustainable Clothing Action Plan 2020 Commitment Contents 2
Contents
We love the wealth
The SCAP of knowledge and
Focus on Focus on Focus on
Vision and expertise within the
Carbon Water Waste
Commitment SCAP organisation and
within its members.
Mint Velvet
SCAP Consumer Design for
Targets and Working Re-use and
Behaviour Extending
Results Collaboratively Re-cycling
Change Clothing Life
LINKS
SCAP Legacy: SCAP Technical Report
What’s next SCAP website
Sustainability What Difference
for sustainable
Metrics Did We Make?
textiles in the
UK?
WRAP | Sustainable Clothing Action Plan 2020 Commitment Contents 3
Vision / Targets / Focus on Focus on Focus on Working Behaviour Re-use & Extending Sustainability What What’s
Commitment Results Carbon Water Waste Collaboratively Change Re-cycling Clothing Life Metrics Difference? Next?
SCAP – The Vision and Commitment
SCAP is a collaborative 1 Use the SCAP footprint
Actions support the following targets
framework and voluntary calculator to measure impacts
for reducing the carbon, water, and
of all products sold and track
commitment to deliver waste footprints of clothing against a
changes over time
industry-led targets for 2012 baseline:
reducing the end-to-end 2 Make changes in fibre and
-15%
use of resources to provide fabric selection that reduce
our clothing. the environmental footprint of
clothing products
Over 90 organisations, including CARBON FOOTPRINT
brands & retailers representing 3 Work with supply chain partners to
reduce the environmental impact
more than 48% of UK clothing
of manufacturing processes
-15%
sales volume, have made the
voluntary SCAP Commitment to 4 Extend the useful life of clothes
collectively reduce the impacts and reduce the impact of clothing
WATER FOOTPRINT
of products by taking action in in use through product design and
seven key areas. services
-3.5%
5 Use effective messaging to
influence consumer behaviours
that will reduce environmental
impacts from clothing WASTE FOOTPRINT
6 Increase re-use and recycling to
-15%
recover maximum value from
used clothing
7 Develop actions to keep clothing CLOTHING IN HOUSEHOLD WASTE
out of landfill
WRAP | Sustainable Clothing Action Plan 2020 Commitment Contents 4
Vision / Targets / Focus on Focus on Focus on Working Behaviour Re-use & Extending Sustainability What What’s
Commitment Results Carbon Water Waste Collaboratively Change Re-cycling Clothing Life Metrics Difference? Next?
Introduction
SCAP 2020 uses collective action Together, signatories have: This report for the period 2012 - 2019
to minimise the environmental outlines how WRAP’s pioneering industry-
• Used the SCAP footprint calculator to led action plan has delivered positive
impact of our clothes. measure and report on the carbon, environmental and economic outcomes
WRAP’s voluntary agreement has brought water and waste impacts of products for forward-looking UK fashion and textiles
together fashion brands and retailers, placed on the market organisations at all levels of the industry.
charity retailers, textile recyclers and It highlights examples of best practice,
• Set group and individual impact
industry experts in long-term collaboration describes the impact of some of the
reduction targets
to successfully reduce the water, waste and signatory actions, and the ‘SCAP legacy’.
carbon impacts of clothing. Finally it considers how to take the learning
• Carried out improvement actions to
from SCAP forward into the 2020s and the
reduce the impact of products
next steps for UK fashion and textiles.
• Invested in new techniques and This is a high-level summary report of SCAP
pilot programmes to improve the progress to date – the full technical data
sustainability of textiles report is available here.
• Developed sustainability metrics
• Carried out industry and
consumer research
• Developed tools to encourage
consumer behaviour change
WRAP | Sustainable Clothing Action Plan 2020 Commitment Contents 5
Vision / Targets / Focus on Focus on Focus on Working Behaviour Re-use & Extending Sustainability What What’s
Commitment Results Carbon Water Waste Collaboratively Change Re-cycling Clothing Life Metrics Difference? Next?
Who signed up?
SCAP Signatories and Supporters
SCAP signatories are industry-leading
fashion brands, retailers, manufacturers,
recycling, re-use and waste management Being part of SCAP has enabled us to work
companies. As active participants in the collaboratively with other UK brands and
90
textiles industry, signatories are on the retailers and enact change within our own
front line, setting targets, measuring business. I would encourage all who want
their impacts and taking action: changing to be part of a more sustainable clothing
their business practices and putting SCAP signatories and industry to join.
research into action.
supporters Alan Wragg
SCAP supporters are trade associations, F&F Technical Director, TESCO
academic organisations, researchers,
innovators, NGOs and campaigning
53
groups. SCAP supporters influence the
textiles industry – providing expertise,
support and guidance to the ideas and
targets of SCAP. academic
and industry
supporters
8 48%
year of retail sales
commitment by volume
WRAP | Sustainable Clothing Action Plan 2020 Commitment Contents 6
Vision / Targets / Focus on Focus on Focus on Working Behaviour Re-use & Extending Sustainability What What’s
Commitment Results Carbon Water Waste Collaboratively Change Re-cycling Clothing Life Metrics Difference? Next?
Targets and Headline Results for end-2019
The SCAP industry-developed
targets are to achieve, between
RESULTS
2012 and 2020
-15.9% -19.5% -2.3% -4%*
• 15% reductions in the carbon and
water footprints of clothing placed carbon water waste clothing in
on the market by SCAP retailers footprint footprint footprint household waste
and brands, measured per tonne of
garment sales
• 3.5% reduction in waste arising
over the product life cycle across
SCAP signatories
• 15% reduction in clothing waste
going to landfill and incineration in
the UK
AGAINST A
TARGET OF
TARGETS
-15% -15% -3.5% -15%
carbon water waste clothing in
footprint footprint footprint household waste
WRAP | Sustainable Clothing Action Plan 2020 Commitment *2018 report Contents 7
Vision / Targets / Focus on Focus on Focus on Working Behaviour Re-use & Extending Sustainability What What’s
Commitment Results Carbon Water Waste Collaboratively Change Re-cycling Clothing Life Metrics Difference? Next?
Our Approach: Target, Measure, Act
SCAP Footprint Calculator
Using the SCAP footprinting tool we have
Target: Reporting in SCAP is designed to calculated that we have reduced the carbon
support group and individual goals. footprint of our own operations by 25%.
Measure: Signatories calculate their
impacts by reporting product data through
the SCAP footprint calculator which then
displays the carbon, water and waste
footprint of the portfolio of products
they sell.
The guidelines, support and tools that SCAP
Act: Signatories use the output of provides makes it a great place for any
the calculator to model scenarios for brand starting their sustainable journey.
improvement, for example by switching
to fibres with recycled content.
WRAP | Sustainable Clothing Action Plan 2020 Commitment Contents 8
Vision / Targets / Focus on Focus on Focus on Working Behaviour Re-use & Extending Sustainability What What’s
Commitment Results Carbon Water Waste Collaboratively Change Re-cycling Clothing Life Metrics Difference? Next?
Improvement Actions
58
SCAP retailers are asked to report Fibre substitution actions
improvement actions that they have replace conventionally sourced fibres
taken in the past year when they enter with lower impact fibres. We’re relatively new to measuring the
their data in the footprint calculator. IMPROVEMENT ACTIONS IN 2019 impact of our business, but having access
These are modelled as a switch from Example: replacing conventional cotton to the footprint calculator has given us
conventional to more sustainable fibres, with organic cotton which avoids confidence that we’re on the right track. The
208
lower impact production techniques synthetic pesticides, herbicides and ability to run different scenarios has been
and increased recycling and re-use to fungicides, providing an associated a powerful tool enabling us to quantify the
keep fibres and garments in circulation reduction in water, pollution and impacts of the sustainable changes we can
for longer. From a zero score in 2012, carbon emissions. IMPROVEMENT ACTIONS SINCE 2012 and do make.
signatories have reported a significant
Efficient production actions
increase in improvement actions year on
55%
introduce more efficient means of
year throughout the SCAP agreement.
producing yarn, fabric or garments.
Fifty eight fibre substitution, efficient
production and re-use actions were
Example: improved dyeing techniques
taken in 2019. OF COTTON SOLD IN 2019 IS
including spin dyeing of viscose and
MORE SUSTAINABLE
dope dyeing of synthetic fibres.
Re-use actions focus on what
happens when the first consumer has
finished with a garment, so it can be
used again.
95,000
TONNES OF IMPROVED FIBRES THIS YEAR
Example: hire and repair services, or
an increase in collection for re-use
and recycling.
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Commitment Results Carbon Water Waste Collaboratively Change Re-cycling Clothing Life Metrics Difference? Next?
Focus on Carbon
Progress: This review of SCAP progress What are the ‘other’ carbon reduction
to date shows that the carbon target has factors in this graph?
been met and exceeded, with a reduction
5% The SCAP footprint calculator is updated to
of 15.9% against a target of 15%.
reflect the impact of changing consumer
This progress has been achieved by a behaviour. Since 2012, the SCAP Consumer
0% Behaviour Group and signatory businesses
combination of factors: Changes in the
proportions of different fibres used in have worked with WRAP to influence
clothing; increased use of sustainable -5% 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 2019 consumer behaviour at key moments in
sources of cotton; changes in citizens’ the fashion product life cycle (purchase,
laundry behaviour, and changes to the use and end-of- life of garments). WRAP’s
10% consumer survey 2017 results indicate that
way grid electricity is generated have all
contributed to the reduction in carbon clothes washing behaviour has changed
associated with signatories. 15% in relation to washing frequency, washing
temperature, and machine drying and this
Improvement actions: The most has had an impact on the product footprint.
impactful factor for the reduction in 20% Another background factor is a change in
carbon footprint was the shift in fibre mix the emissions intensity of the UK national
away from carbon intensive fibres such as grid which is powered differently in 2019
acrylic and wool. than when SCAP launched in 2012.
The most used improvement actions by
SCAP retailers are the uptake of recycled
polyester, lyocell and organic cotton. Key Carbon - Other Carbon - Improvement actions
Signatories have also begun to introduce
lower impact factory processes such as
improved dyeing techniques and these Carbon footprint reduction per tonne of garments sold; effect of improvement actions
have made a smaller contribution.
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Commitment Results Carbon Water Waste Collaboratively Change Re-cycling Clothing Life Metrics Difference? Next?
Recycling and Innovation for Carbon Reduction
Signatory improvement
actions that reduce carbon
include: use of improved
Recycled Polyester and Nylon Dope Dyeing Polyester and Viscose Cold Pad Batch Dyeing
fibres, collecting garments
for recycling and re-use, and At F&F, we have focused on switching We moved product from piece We’ve introduced cold pad batch dyeing
the fabrics we use to more sustainable dyed to dope dyed polyester and of synthetic fibres across some of our
starting to introduce lower
options. For example: virgin polyester viscose to deliver improved colour core ranges, directly contributing to
impact factory processes to recycled, virgin nylon to recycled, water and energy savings.
consistency and shade matching, which
such as lower impact dyeing viscose to lyocell and conventional is particularly important within our
technology. cotton to BCI or organic. Menswear tailoring department where
our customers can buy each part of a
In doing so we have been able to
suit separately.
demonstrate over 30% reduction
in water and almost 20% reduction Dope dyeing provides a less energy
in carbon. and water intensive method of
colouring the fabric than piece dyeing Collecting Garments for
as the colour pigment is added during Re-use and Recycling
the polyester chip production. We
SATCoL has been a signatory to SCAP
encourage our suppliers to produce
since 2011. In that time we have
dope dyed polyester and viscose where
increased/near doubled the quantity of
possible and have been able to measure
second hand clothing we collect each
the quantity of fibre used by Next as
year at recycling banks from our large
dope dyed and included this within our
supermarket customers and charity
SCAP fibre footprint.
shops. We now collect around 50,000
tonnes of clothing, textiles and other
items each year.
WRAP | Sustainable Clothing Action Plan 2020 Commitment Contents 11Vision / Targets / Focus on Focus on Focus on Working Behaviour Re-use & Extending Sustainability What What’s
Commitment Results Carbon Water Waste Collaboratively Change Re-cycling Clothing Life Metrics Difference? Next?
Focus on Water
This review of SCAP progress to date
shows that the water target has been met
and exceeded, with a reduction of 19.5% SCAP’s expertise and textile fibre data has
0%
against a target of 15% for the period provided the knowledge to help us plan and
2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 2019
2012 – 2019. migrate to more sustainable fibres through
collaboration with our suppliers.
The production of cotton fibres is by
-5%
far the largest contributor to the water
footprint of clothing and the increased use
of more sustainable cotton was the biggest
factor in achieving the SCAP water target. -10%
Signatories switched to fibres with
reduced environmental impact at farm Our biggest achievement by far was
level including Organic Cotton, BCI Cotton,
-15% reducing our water impact by more than
Cotton Made in Africa, REEL or recovered 32% by swapping to lower impact cotton.
cotton. Of these, the highest contribution
to achieving the target has been the -20%
increased use of BCI cotton by SCAP
retailers, which was used by 7 out of 11
reporting retailers and in absolute terms
-25%
remains the most used improved fibre.
Future actions to reduce the water Key Water - Other Water - Improvement actions
footprint of textiles are likely to continue to
focus on improving cotton growing if they
are to be effective. Water footprint reduction per tonne of garments sold, effect of improvement actions
WRAP | Sustainable Clothing Action Plan 2020 Commitment Contents 12Vision / Targets / Focus on Focus on Focus on Working Behaviour Re-use & Extending Sustainability What What’s
Commitment Results Carbon Water Waste Collaboratively Change Re-cycling Clothing Life Metrics Difference? Next?
Fibre Switching for Water Reduction
Cotton has the largest water footprint
of materials sold by SCAP retailers. On
average the water footprint per tonne We’ve switched our key fibres to lower At M&S, we’ve been working on the adoption
of garments sold has reduced by 19.5% impact alternatives. These include of more sustainable materials and dyeing
between 2012 and 2019. Multiple factors conventional cotton to BCI, virgin polyester processes in our Clothing and Home
are responsible for the reduction, but a to recycled and viscose to lyocell. Switching products. Since 2012, our hard work has
notable action is the widespread shift to to BCI cotton alone has seen a reduction of demonstrated a 29.6% reduction in water
lower impact cottons, which are typically over 70% in our water footprint. and 11.4% reduction in carbon. Reaching
farmed in a less water intensive way. 100% more sustainable cotton throughout
our clothing ranges was a key driver of
this achievement, and now we’re scaling
switching to more sustainable alternatives
for our other priority fibres.
We’ve achieved 14% organic cotton in
2019 – with more than 80% of cotton
now more sustainably sourced.
Positive results from SCAP’s footprint
analysis has confirmed that we are
significantly reducing our environmental
impacts through the expansion of the
Primark Sustainable Cotton Program
(PSCP), which uses CottonConnect’s REEL
methodology.
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Commitment Results Carbon Water Waste Collaboratively Change Re-cycling Clothing Life Metrics Difference? Next?
Focus on Waste
The SCAP waste footprint target aims Charity and commercial recycling Waste (tonnes)
to achieve a 3.5% reduction in waste signatories collect, sort and distribute
arising over the product life cycle across used clothing directly for re-use in the
0 50,000 100,000 150,000 200,000 250,000
SCAP signatories. The 2019 footprint UK and elsewhere. Charity retailer data
shows a 2.3% reduction. Whilst there contribute to SCAP waste footprint Cotton
has been a marked improvement in targets by increasing the rate of reuse of
the waste footprint in recent years, it is garments sold by signatories. However, Wool
unlikely that the target of 3.5% will be commercial recycler data is calculated
Silk
met by the end of 2020. separately to avoid double counting
(where textiles are transferred between Flax/Linen
The SCAP waste footprint includes signatory organisations).
disposal from the supply chain as well Cellulosics
as finished garments disposed at the Read more about the SCAP footprint
end of the first use (consumer) phase. methodology here Polyester
As the bar chart opposite indicates,
SCAP reporting has highlighted some Acrylic
cotton and polyester are the two largest
contributors to waste, as they are the of the challenges of calculating and Pa/Nylon
most used fibre types. SCAP retailers addressing textile waste. With long,
achieved a 1.6% reduction in waste, complex supply chains, it is not easy PE/PP/E
predominantly by moving away from to obtain accurate data on waste at
Other
higher waste materials, including wool the fibre production and processing
and acrylic. stages of product lifecycles. Working
with supply chain partners to reduce
the environmental footprint of Key Fibre production Processing In use Disposal
manufacturing has begun, but it is a
long term process.
Waste footprint of garments sold by SCAP retailers in 2019, showing the footprint by life
cycle stage and fibre type
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Commitment Results Carbon Water Waste Collaboratively Change Re-cycling Clothing Life Metrics Difference? Next?
Focus on Clothing in Household Waste
The most recent National Household Possible explanations for the SCAP has begun the work needed to
Waste Composition Study (2019) discrepancy between the target and address textile waste at a systemic
indicates a 4% reduction in clothing reported reduction in household level. In addition to research and
waste to landfill or incineration between waste textiles are the 3% increase in work on influencing citizen behaviour
2012 and 2018. It seems likely that the clothing consumption in the UK each change, there are many examples
target of a reduction by 15% will not be year, along with the rise in population of positive progress in signatory
met by 2020. by over 2 million during the period of action and changes in consumer
SCAP. As a result, it might be expected behaviour which indicate that with
that more clothing would find its way concerted focus and continued
into household waste bins. collaboration, there is a clear direction
of travel towards a more circular
The data may not present the textile economy.
complete story however, as they omit
other end-of-first-use routes that have Read about how SCAP is influencing
gained popularity in recent years, such consumer behaviour on waste here
as online resale platforms, informal
exchange with family and friends and
vintage clothing which potentially stays
in circulation for much longer than a
typical garment.
SCAP research has examined
the attitudes, circumstances and
WRAP’s recent research on clear out of
behaviours that lead people to use
unwanted textiles and clothing during
‘the bin’ or to prefer charity donations.
lockdown has reassured us that Primark’s
These data provide insights into how
in-store recycling scheme will make recycling
to tackle the problem of clothing in
clothes easier for customers.
household waste.
WRAP | Sustainable Clothing Action Plan 2020 Commitment Contents 15Vision / Targets / Focus on Focus on Focus on Working Behaviour Re-use & Extending Sustainability What What’s
Commitment Results Carbon Water Waste Collaboratively Change Re-cycling Clothing Life Metrics Difference? Next?
Action on Consumer Waste
Several signatories identified ways
to extend the life of clothing and
reduce consumer waste that support Our bespoke customer repairs service allows Business support from SCAP enabled We conducted several swap shop events
their business models and are relevant us to extend the life of Whistles products, us to develop several new concepts and across our boutique stores early this year
to their market segment. Here are diverting faulty items from landfill and giving innovations. We were able to develop a where customers could bring pre-loved
some examples of signatory action garments a new lease of life. new charity retail concept – large floor items and swap them with other preloved
including repair, resale, clothing space, vehicle accessible ‘Donation items- prolonging the life of garments and
REPAIR SERVICES:
collection, charity donation and Centres. keeping them out of landfill.
peer-to-peer clothes swapping.
The research that was presented SWAP SHOP EVENTS:
identified several innovative circular
activities for the Donation Centres
We’ve used SCAP to report our resale and
and made the business case for
vintage sales through ASOS Marketplace,
each. Since this research, we have
which launched in 2010 and helps us
successfully opened 15 new Donation
support the use of pre-loved clothing and
Centres throughout the country with
extended garment lifecycles.
a programme to develop many more
RE-SALE: including two trial ‘Super Donation
Centres’ which are scheduled to open
in Autumn 2020.
CLOTHING DONATIONS:
Since 2008, we’ve also helped customers
to donate 35 million unwanted garments
through our Shwopping clothes exchange
partnership with Oxfam. This has
prevented over 18,000 tonnes of waste.
CLOTHING COLLECTIONS IN-STORE:
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Commitment Results Carbon Water Waste Collaboratively Change Re-cycling Clothing Life Metrics Difference? Next?
Working Collaboratively
One of the achievements of SCAP Over an eight-year period, SCAP
has been the way it has effectively signatories and supporters have
mobilised many of the most influential worked together as a steering group We appreciate the progress that The groups enable SCAP signatories to build
organisations in the fashion and and in topic-specific work groups. Major SCAP and the signatories to the agreement knowledge in an effective and efficient
textiles industry to come together retailers, brands, recyclers, sector have made, including the development and manner as well as helping to drive a
over an extended period of time in bodies, NGOs and charities have shared use of the SCAP Calculator. GOTS welcomes common approach across the signatories.
pre-competitive groups, creating a expertise and collaborated to take action the opportunity to interact with and learn
positive and fertile environment for in four key areas: from the brands and retailers around the
collaboration and learning. table, several of whom have achieved their
ambition of certification to GOTS.
INFLUENCING
We value the opportunity to feed into the
CONSUMER BEHAVIOURS An important determinant for us joining
SCAP strategy.
the agreement was that it was underpinned
by a credible scientific evidence base. We
DESIGN FOR EXTENDED were given the opportunity to input into
CLOTHING LIFE the content and outputs of the research
programme. SCAP has kept us
informed on many relevant sector-wide
issues, including levels of consumer interest
RE-USE The SCAP Working Groups have been hugely
in sustainable textiles, reuse and recycling
& RECYCLING helpful in tackling shared sustainability
and significant technology developments.
challenges with other brands and retailers.
They’ve helped us understand emerging
METRICS FOR issues in the industry and stay up to date on
SUSTAINABILITY regulatory changes.
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Influencing Consumer Behaviours
The most significant opportunity for The SCAP Consumer Behaviour
reducing the environmental impact of group has worked together with WRAP
clothing lies in increasing the active life on ways to influence consumers to take
of the clothes we wear. SCAP 2019 data action and reduce the environmental Up to date information, campaigns and WRAP’s consumer insight reports have
demonstrate how changes in consumer impacts at key points in the clothing tools for the industry and general public, provided valuable insights, helping us
behaviour have delivered significant life-cycle: purchase, use (wash, care and a central point to direct people to inform and shape our sustainability
reductions in the carbon, water and and repair) and end-of-life (discard, and organisations to knowing that the program accordingly.
waste impacts of fashion and textiles. recycle). Brands and retailers play a role information is correct.
in engaging and educating customers
via a range of communication tools,
for example by offering resources
on care and repair and using laundry
labels to influence less frequent, lower
temperature washing.
Communicating with consumers
through SCAP members to influence
behaviours.
We have published two garment care
Sharing industry insight
guides, promoting the longevity of
into consumer behaviours.
our products.
Launching ‘Love Your Clothes’
with a suite of resources to help
consumers to make small conscious
changes to reduce the impact of
clothes on the environment.
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Commitment Results Carbon Water Waste Collaboratively Change Re-cycling Clothing Life Metrics Difference? Next?
Re-use and Recycling
The Re-use and Recycling group is
focused on diverting textiles from landfill Textile collection guidance for
by improving collection and separation local authorities and partners
systems, and developing markets for This is an interactive guide designed The SCAP team has enabled us to bring
re-use and recycling. Participants to help local authorities and textiles circular thinking into SATCoL and has
including industry body the Textile collectors such as charities, waste helped us form several new business
Recycling Association have noted the management companies and textile innovations and partnerships which we
value of these groups in building up merchants, increase textile re-use otherwise might not have been able to.
an influential network of partnerships and recycling. >
Tony Hosking,
across the UK and the global clothing
Business Development Director
supply chain, to help promote re-use
and recycling, addressing actions that Re-use potential of household
need to be taken at national and global bulky textiles
level, and increasing the media profile of This research looks at the composition
the environmental impacts of clothing. and re-use potential of bulky household
textile materials like carpets, rugs and
Activity has included:
underlay.
>
• Developing systems and initiatives
(including consumer communications)
for improving collection of clothing Textile product flow and market
development opportunities
• Separation of clothing for re-use and
This set of reports analyses the various
recycling, where re-use of clothing is
sources and collection methods for
preferred to recycling
textiles within the UK and assesses
market opportunities to divert textiles
• Market development for re-use
from the waste stream.
and recycling of clothing and lower >
material grades
WRAP | Sustainable Clothing Action Plan 2020 Commitment Contents 19Vision / Targets / Focus on Focus on Focus on Working Behaviour Re-use & Extending Sustainability What What’s
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Design for Extending Clothing Life
WRAP research shows that extending The information and learning has been
the life of clothes by nine extra made available to the wider textile The Extending Clothing Life Protocol
months can reduce carbon, water community on the WRAP website is a technical support tool for companies
and waste footprints by around including the following resources: wishing to embed consistent quality
4-10% each. standards of good practice across their
product ranges, complementing specific
Retailers and brands can make a The Sustainable Clothing Guide
design innovations such as anti-fading
significant difference by making small is a free resource for brands and
and anti-pilling technologies. It provides
changes to increase the durability of manufacturers that shares simple
a structured approach for development
clothing during both the design and steps to best practice on how to design,
teams and a workable testing regime
production process. An important produce, and sell sustainable clothing
to support consistency.
aspect of SCAP over the past eight years that lasts longer, and that can easily >
has therefore been the collaboration be repaired and re-used. >
between WRAP, SCAP signatories
and supporters to develop a bank of
knowledge and guidance materials to
inform best practice. The Clothing Knowledge Hub
showcases new initiatives, processes
The SCAP Design for Extending Clothing and technologies which can reduce
Life group has looked at aspects the environmental impact of clothing.
of clothing from design through to With research, information and
manufacture, and has tested and trialled guidance on textiles from raw materials
process improvements that can increase through to final disposal, the hub
the length of time before a particular enables organisations make changes
garment type fails or is discarded. that reduce their carbon, water and
waste impacts. >
WRAP | Sustainable Clothing Action Plan 2020 Commitment Contents 20Vision / Targets / Focus on Focus on Focus on Working Behaviour Re-use & Extending Sustainability What What’s
Commitment Results Carbon Water Waste Collaboratively Change Re-cycling Clothing Life Metrics Difference? Next?
Metrics for Sustainability
When signatories and supporters joined Prior to SCAP it was not possible for
SCAP they became part of a pioneering organisations to easily measure the
initiative that has changed the landscape Scope 3 greenhouse gas emissions Identifying important metrics to improve
of sustainability in UK fashion and from their textile products without sustainability as a group strengthens the
textiles. Central to the success of the significant investment in time collective progress we can make as an
initiative is the science-based footprint and specialist resources. Very few industry.
calculator and the robust methodology organisations were in a position to
and peer-reviewed assessment process address this issue in 2012. The success
that lies behind the reporting. of an initiative like SCAP depends on
wide engagement and participation of
Click here to view the SCAP Data businesses: tools therefore need to be
and Methodology accessible and effective for as wide a The footprint calculator tool, and the
range of businesses as possible. expertise behind it is one of the unique
SCAP has been particularly effective benefits of the SCAP collaboration as it
because of its early and consistent level allows us to measure the impact of the
of sector involvement in its steering changes we make, as the ability to measure
and working groups. changes is only becoming more important
and helps to support our own Responsible
Signatory and support members of the Sourcing Strategy.
Metrics group worked with experts from
WRAP to develop the SCAP Clothing
Footprint Calculator, which enables
companies to measure their baseline
footprints, identify opportunities for
improvement and monitor the results.
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Commitment Results Carbon Water Waste Collaboratively Change Re-cycling Clothing Life Metrics Difference? Next?
How Well has SCAP Performed?
SCAP signatories represent almost Data suggest that SCAP signatories are
half of the UK clothing market by somewhat behind the global market
volume. The SCAP Progress Report tests in the use of recycled polyester (10%
the overall performance of SCAP against SCAP v. 14% global). However, SCAP The Government must ensure that
non-SCAP signatories, and compares signatories are using a much higher WRAP’s Sustainable Clothing Action
the use of improved and recycled fibres proportion of more sustainable Plan is adequately funded to provide
within the SCAP agreement to estimated cotton than their global peers. For its services to any retailer that wants to
usage in the global market. example, 55% of SCAP signatories’ improve its sustainability performance –
cotton is from a more sustainable regardless of its size…. We recommend
source, whereas Textile Exchange’s that compliance with SCAP targets
global report indicates that only 25% of should be made mandatory for all
cotton is sourced this way globally. SCAP retailers with a turnover of more than
signatories are also slightly ahead of £36 million.
the global market for use of lyocell at
ENVIRONMENTAL AUDIT
5% versus 4.3%.
COMMITTEE, 2019 REPORT Fixing
The robust progress demonstrated Fashion: Clothing Consumption
by SCAP signatories has been and Sustainability
highlighted in the 2019 Environmental
Audit Committee’s investigation
into clothing consumption and
sustainability. Amongst the outputs
of the investigation was a call to action
for governments to ensure that such
a programme is accessible to all
retailers, and a suggestion that they
should consider mandatory participation
in SCAP.
WRAP | Sustainable Clothing Action Plan 2020 Commitment Contents 22Vision / Targets / Focus on Focus on Focus on Working Behaviour Re-use & Extending Sustainability What What’s
Commitment Results Carbon Water Waste Collaboratively Change Re-cycling Clothing Life Metrics Difference? Next?
Conclusions: The SCAP Legacy
What Difference did we Make?
SCAP is reaching its endpoint, but its Successes to celebrate: Learning and a call to action:
momentum continues in the actions
of its signatory organisations, the • Significant joint progress against an • Data indicate that waste targets
heightened awareness of clothing ambitious set of targets – carbon and are unlikely to be met by the
consumers, robust evidence for water targets are met. The water target end of 2020, particularly reduction
the most impactful interventions, is exceeded due to a widespread shift to in landfill/incineration, although a
and businesses’ ability to measure more sustainable materials – particularly number of SCAP signatory repair,
greenhouse gas emissions and water lower impact cottons re-sale, collection and recycling
footprints. initiatives are underway
• Measurement: the SCAP footprint
calculator provides a science-based and • SCAP provides knowledge and
transparent approach to measuring impetus for UK-focused action in the
sustainability, tracking progress against next 10 years. Research and learning
targets and selecting strategies about the challenge of textile waste
reduction show a clear line of
• Collaboration: eight years of bringing UK travel from progress made in
fashion and textiles businesses, academic, SCAP towards a circular textiles
industry and research organisations economy in the UK. This will be a
together to collaborate in a uniquely priority for WRAP’s new voluntary
pre-competitive way, developing common agreement: Textiles 2030
insight into priorities and sharing learning
from both successes and failures
• Consumer influence: SCAP
signatories are in a position to influence
and educate consumers; SCAP data
provide evidence that citizen behaviour
change is contributing to lower carbon
impacts – e.g. washing less frequently
and at lower temperatures
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Commitment Results Carbon Water Waste Collaboratively Change Re-cycling Clothing Life Metrics Difference? Next?
What’s next for Sustainable Fashion
and Textiles in the UK?
The UK Government has agreed an WRAP is developing a new voluntary
ambitious target to reach net-zero agreement – Textiles 2030 – that will
carbon emissions by 2050, and the harness this energy along with the Fashion shouldn’t cost the Earth, but it
textiles sector needs to be ready to play knowledge and experience gained from is on track to consume a quarter of our
its part in a cleaner, greener form of SCAP. The new agreement will bring carbon budget by 2050. The industry has a
economic growth. the whole UK fashion and textile sector responsibility to set out how it will be a
together to identify priorities, introduce net-zero carbon emitter.
COVID-19 has damaged the economy, changes, measure progress, influence
with many fashion and textiles MARY CREAGH, CHAIR, ENVIRONMENTAL
government policy and fast-track
businesses struggling. But despite the AUDIT COMMITTEE 2019
circularity – with a focus on hitting the
tough economic climate, brands and UN’s 2030 climate targets.
retailers continue to demonstrate a
commitment to sustainability, with many Textiles 2030 will be the UK’s trailblazer
leaders seeing it as key to business for national initiatives on circularity in
success in the next decade. Across the other countries, developed in tandem
industry we see new business models, with WRAP’s new template and pilot for
technical innovations, materials research a replicable Circular Clothing Action Plan.
and an upsurge of interest in lease Both will be coordinated with relevant
hire, re-use, re-cycling and the circular global initiatives to give businesses
economy. The pandemic has heightened worldwide a practical pathway to
consumer demand for climate action implementing the targets they adopt
and sustainability from the brands for climate and sustainability.
they purchase.
WRAP | Sustainable Clothing Action Plan 2020 Commitment Contents 24Vision / Targets / Focus on Focus on Focus on Working Behaviour Re-use & Extending Sustainability What What’s
Commitment Results Carbon Water Waste Collaboratively Change Re-cycling Clothing Life Metrics Difference? Next?
Textiles in the Circular Economy
As the climate emergency intensifies, Collaborative work with SCAP signatories Designing products for longer life
and the global textiles industry has helped identify WRAP’s priority areas and recyclability
expands, the need for faster, effective, of focus for Textiles 2030.
collaborative action on climate change • Making products that are physically
Adopting business models that use a and emotionally more appealing
is greater than ever. With Textiles 2030,
product for longer to the user (e.g. retaining ‘as-new’
WRAP is already developing a new phase
of transformation for the UK textile appearance for longer supporting
• Adopting a variety of resale models, multiple washes or re-sale)
sector, focusing on a move away from such as peer-to-peer, resale by
‘take, make, dispose’ towards a circular charities or brands, rental, buy- • Designing products to be readily
business model. back/reward and clothing service/ recycled at the end of usable life,
subscription which may involve technical changes
and consumer engagement
Closing the loop on materials
Being part of SCAP enables the Textile
• Adopting chemical or mechanical
Recycling Association to influence important
recycling of materials back into
interventions along the entire UK clothing
textile fibres
supply chain that helps to improve the
re-use and recyclability of clothing and
• Creating demand through
textiles and ultimately will help to deliver
design specification
a truly sustainable and circular economy
for the industry.
ALAN WHEELER – DIRECTOR, TEXTILE
RECYCLING ASSOCIATION
WRAP | Sustainable Clothing Action Plan 2020 Commitment Contents 25Vision / Targets / Focus on Focus on Focus on Working Behaviour Re-use & Extending Sustainability What What’s
Commitment Results Carbon Water Waste Collaboratively Change Re-cycling Clothing Life Metrics Difference? Next?
Textiles 2030
What is Textiles 2030? With an official launch in April 2021, the Textiles 2030 is a voluntary agreement.
new voluntary agreement builds on the It is funded by its signatories and
Textiles 2030 is WRAP’s new learning and success of the Sustainable government. Signatories will be in
ground-breaking, expert-led initiative, Clothing Action Plan and aims to engage a position to contribute to national
harnessing the knowledge and the majority of UK fashion and textiles textiles policy discussions, responding
expertise of UK leaders in sustainability organisations in collaborative action: to government proposals to shape
to accelerate the whole industry’s Extended Producer Responsibility and
move towards circularity and system • Experienced sustainability leaders, other critical regulatory developments.
change in the UK. recycling and re-use organisations
and SCAP signatories will collaborate The UK textile sector
as ‘Partners’ on fast-tracking the UK collaboration making rapid,
Circular Economy science-based progress on
circularity and climate action.
• Other fashion and textiles Brands
and Retailers can sign up as ‘Member’
signatories and benefit from WRAP’s
support in achieving a ready-made,
science-based, robust climate strategy
and measuring their GHG emissions
• Innovators, Ground-breakers,
Researchers, Academics and Industry
membership groups can join as
Affiliates to contribute their expertise
WRAP | Sustainable Clothing Action Plan 2020 Commitment Contents 26Vision / Targets / Focus on Focus on Focus on Working Behaviour Re-use & Extending Sustainability What What’s
Commitment Results Carbon Water Waste Collaboratively Change Re-cycling Clothing Life Metrics Difference? Next?
Technical Note on Methodology and Assurance
Full details of the Footprinting: SCAP signatories report Quality assurance: on signatory data
product impact data to WRAP annually is carried out by WRAP and the annual
reporting methodology using the SCAP calculator, which is designed progress report is peer-reviewed for
is provided in the to enable participants to estimate carbon, integrity before publication.
water and waste impacts in a consistent
technical report, here: way, and to plan and quantify the potential Consumer behaviour: WRAP developed
a methodology for establishing the average
SCAP 2020 commitment: savings from improvement actions. It also
lifespan of clothing as part of its 2012
quantifies environmental savings directly
Progress 2012-2019. attributable to actions they have taken, report Valuing our Clothes which informs
relative to a baseline year. The footprint the SCAP calculator, and periodically carries
calculator can be used by retailers and out surveys on consumer behaviour and
recycling/re-use organisations to model attitudes to clothing during purchase,
further improvements on how to achieve wearing, washing, repair, re-use and
their climate targets. It will be developed disposal. Where relevant, results are used to
further throughout Textiles 2030. update the footprint calculator.
WRAP collates and reports the overall Clothing in Household Residual Waste:
carbon, water and waste savings across Signatory data are not used to evaluate
all signatories. In measuring progress, a this target which refers to separate waste
lifecycle assessment approach is taken, composition analysis at a UK national level.
with four stages in scope: Fibre Production, Sensitivity analysis: To improve
Processing, Use, and End of Life, following understanding of the results, a sensitivity
the general principles of the ISO 14040 analysis is carried out to understand the
standard for LCAs. Life cycle assessments potential for assumptions and proxy data to
are informed by secondary data which are have a disproportionate effect on results.
also quality checked.
WRAP | Sustainable Clothing Action Plan 2020 Commitment Contents 27What’s
next?
Thank you
SCAP concludes on 31 December 2020. WRAP’s vision is a world in which resources are
used sustainably. Our mission is to accelerate
WRAP would like to thank all the brands, retailers,
the move to a sustainable resource efficient
recycling organisations, research organisations and
economy through re-inventing how we design,
individuals who have contributed expertise, time and
produce and sell products; re-thinking how we
resource to its development and implementation.
use and consume products; and re-defining what
At this critical moment for the planet and our climate, is possible through re-use and recycling. Find out
there can be no pause in our efforts to reduce the more at www.wrap.org.uk
impacts of textiles production and consumption. WRAP
While we have tried to make sure this report
calls on colleagues across the textiles and fashion
is accurate, we cannot accept responsibility
industry to collaborate anew on Textiles 2030 – with
or be held legally responsible for any loss or
a circular focus and an ambitious 10 year goal to
damage arising out of or in connection with this
transform how we buy and consume clothing in the UK.
information being inaccurate, incomplete or
www.wrap.org.uk/SCAP misleading. This material is copyrighted. You can
copy it free of charge as long as the material is
Contact SCAP scap@wrap.org.uk accurate and not used in a misleading context.
Contact Textiles 2030 textiles2030@wrap.org.uk You must identify the source of the material and
acknowledge our copyright. You must not use
Company Registration No: 4125764 material to endorse or suggest we have endorsed
Charity No: 1159512 a commercial product or service. For more details
please see our terms and conditions on our
WRAP
website at www.wrap.org.uk
Second Floor, Blenheim Court,
19 George Street, Banbury, Oxon, OX16 5BH
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