Santa Barbara DELHI KUMAIL NANJIANI LAS VEGAS
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DELHI • KUMAIL NANJIANI • LAS VEGAS
THIS MAGAZINE
HAS BEEN
TREATED WITH AN
ANTIMICROBIAL
PROCESS
NOVEMBER 2021
Three
Perfect
Days
Santa
Barbara Where you
can take in the
city’s defining
Spanish
Colonial Revival
architecture at
the Ritz-Carlton
Bacara
001_HEMI_1121_Cover_v6.indd 1 03/10/2021 14:34
Three
Perfect
Days
Santa
Barbara
Santa Barbara is known as the American Riviera, and it’s easy to see why.
At its feet, the brilliant blue Pacific laps up on sandy beaches; at its back,
the sharp peaks of the Santa Ynez Mountains shoot skyward. Downtown
is a Spanish Colonial architectural fantasy, while tony Montecito has
drawn celebrity residents such as Oprah Winfrey and Jeff Bridges. But
the city and its surroundings are more than just a Californian Cannes.
Milpas Street is lined with humble yet acclaimed taquerias. To the north,
the Santa Ynez Valley and Paso Robles boast some of the finest vineyards
in the country. A few miles offshore, whales and dolphins frolic amid
the Channel Islands. To top it off, over the last decade, downtown SB’s
Funk Zone has exploded with restaurants and bars, seriously raising the
city’s hip quotient. Who knew that paradise could be improved upon?
B y J u s t i n G o l d m a n • P h o t o g r a p hy b y N a t a s h a L e e
66 67
1
DAY
► Hiking through fog
and drinking with
renegade winemakers
I
t ’s m o r n i n g o n t h e
California Coast, and if
you’ve ever lived here,
you know what I’m look-
ing at: fog. I’m standing on the
boardwalk that r uns along
the bluff above Moonstone
Beach, just to the west of the a n d w h i le I ’m lo o k i n g be any sun glinting off the I finish my stroll and hop s h a c k a nd s p e c i a l i z e s i n mackerel. L et ’s toss t hose approach i ng Pa so Roble s .
tiny town of Cambria. The for ward to strol ling dow n water, but as I walk up and back in the car to drive south smoked seafood. I mosey up bad boys in the smoker! The world has known about
number one mistake visitors Memory Lane in Santa Bar- down the coast, I am able to on Route 1. Half an hour later, to t he cou nter to order a For t i f ied for t he a f ter- Napa’s wines for decades, and
to Pacific beaches make is to bara, I’ve decided to ma ke spot a few t hings t hrough I reach the three-block-long couple of salmon tacos, which noon, I turn onto Old Creek about Santa Barbara’s since
Opening spread,
from left: house
dress for summer, but as a UC a road trip out of this visit and the marine layer. The dark, main drag of Cay ucos. The c ome l aden w it h let t uc e , Road, which w ind s up Sideways, and Paso has
transportation Santa Barbara alum (class of check off a few Central Coast pebbly beach is littered with clock has just struck 11 a.m., tomato, celery, carrot, apple, t h roug h a na r row c a nyon recently staked its own claim
at the Rosewood
Miramar Beach; artful
2003), I came prepared, with sights I missed back then— driftwood, while the water so Ruddell’s Smokehouse is and mu st ard aioli. I chow dotted with oaks. When I hit to fame. I’ve driven through
presentation at Six Test a thick surf hoodie. starting with this stretch of is f u l l of wet suit–wear ing open. A local favorite for 20 down as I watch a fisherman Highway 46, the golden hills ma ny t i mes, but never
Kitchen in Paso Robles;
this spread: Moonstone
It h a s b e en ne a r ly t wo beach about two hours north sur fers lin ing up to catch years, the restaurant is run at the end of the Cayucos Pier beg i n to be st itched w it h stopped to smell the rosés;
Beach in Cambria decades since I graduated, of t he cit y. There may not the waves. out of a sma l l beach f ront reel in a couple of good-size g rapev ines, so I k now I’m today, I make amends.
68 69
Pe r h ap s t he pl a c e t h a t winemaker Vailia From pours “It’s ver y rela xed,” From Spruce, and Aziza before com-
This page, from
left: Vailia From at “From pours me
Desparada Wines;
best capt ures t he spir it of me a sample of her Wayf in- responds, laughing. “I love ing home. While his dining
the historic Ah Louis t his reg ion is Tin City, an der ch a rdon n ay wh i le we Napa and Sonoma, but I really a chardonnay room feels like something you
Store in what was
i nd u s t r i a l c omp o u nd on w at c h u n s u s pec t i n g f l ie s ap pr e c i a t e w h a t we h ave might find South of Market, a
once San Luis Obispo’s while we watch
Chinatown; opposite the edge of downtown Paso land on the Venus flytrap on here. We have an incredibly lot of local love goes into it.
page: decor at the
Hotel San Luis Obispo
that houses more than t wo t he table. When I t ur n my diverse area where we’re not unsuspecting “The g uy that we get our
dozen wineries, breweries, recorder on, she warns me, tied to certain varietals, so I fish from, I literally grew up
flies land on the
and restaurants. I have a few “I drop a lot of F-bombs.” I see everything being made. I across the street from him,”
minutes before dinner, so I note t hat t his seem s to be think we’re really lucky.” Venus flytrap Odbert says. “The person we
poke my head into Desparada a common trait among the Spe a k i n g of luc k y, I’ve get our produce from, I went
on the table.”
Wines. On the back porch, vintners here. scored one of the 12 counter to high school with her broth-
ers. I’ve known these people
forever, which I wouldn’t get
DAY T R I P : T H E C H A N N E L I S L A N D S seat s at Si x Test K itchen, anywhere else.”
wh ich opened in Tin Cit y I’m ready for bed now, and
Few places in America are astonishing mega-pod of Ben Spring, led my group including one of the largest in 2019. The space is small, there’s one waiting for me
quite as wild as Channel Islands hundreds of dolphins swam through a kelp forest, where in North America. but t he t a st i ng menu i s just on the other side of the
National Park. Comprising alongside the boat. we saw a frolicking harbor After paddling back to the mighty. I quickly lose track of Cuesta Grade. I glide down
five of the eight Channel Upon reaching Santa Cruz, seal and an orange Garibaldi beach, you’re free to spend the number of courses, but the hill, and before I know it
Islands, which some call meet with a guide from Santa (California’s state marine fish). the rest of the afternoon the highlights include hama- I’m pulling up to the Hotel San
“North America’s Galápagos,” Barbara Adventure Company We also passed cormorants swimming, hiking, or looking chi sashimi with a salad of Luis Obispo. The two-year-
the park is almost totally for a sea kayaking or snorkeling perched on the cliffs and for the bushy-tailed island tomato, cucumber, and basil; old hotel is on the street that
undeveloped and is part of a excursion. My kayaking guide, went into several sea caves, fox. I recommend taking the ch icken liver topped w it h was once the center of SLO’s
UNESCO biosphere reserve. In scenic bluff-top trail to the plum slices on an anise cake; C h i n atow n . I n t he 1870 s,
fact, the Santa Barbara Channel Potato Harbor overlook, but grilled fish head chawanmushi during the constr uction of
boasts one of the world’s be sure to mind the time: If with koji butter; and house- the railroads, the small city
most impressive collections of you don’t get back to the dock d r y- a g e d p or k loi n w it h had the largest Chinese pop-
marine life, including blue and before the scheduled departure, peach, bulgur wheat, mustard ulation in California, and the
humpback whales, orcas, and the boat will leave without you. grain, and a grilled shishito. property pays homage to that
tens of thousands of dolphins. Adult round-trip day fare It ’s no wond e r t he pl a c e history with a latticed terra-
iStock/Getty Images (Channel Islands)
Book a 60-to-90-minute ferry to Santa Cruz Island, $63, received a star in the 2021 cotta facade. I have a good
ride from Ventura Harbor to islandpackers.com; sea California Michelin Guide. view of it from the balcony of
Santa Cruz Island (the largest kayak tour from $118, After dinner, I buttonhole my third-floor room, where I
landmass in the archipelago) sbadventureco.com; advance chef Ricky Odbert, who grew can also watch the fog creep-
with Island Packers, and you’ve reservations are essential, up in nearby Arroyo Grande, ing around the volcanic hills
got a good shot at spotting and there are no concessions t hen cooked i n Sa n Fra n- that surround town. Where
some sea life; on my trip, an on the island. cisco kitchens such as Masa’s, did I put that hoodie?
72
2
DAY
remembrances of things past as Paul Giamatti’s Miles did
that I’m about to experience. (less quietly) in Sideways.
► A Danish detour and a
Back in the car, I follow There are plenty of wines
101 south for a few miles, but I will drink, though. First, I
surprising Indian feast
instead of making straight for pop into Story of Soil. Wine-
Santa Barbara, I take a detour maker Jessica Gasca—who,
into the Santa Ynez Valley. in cutoff jean shorts, a white
My first stop on the side-trip button-down, and a straw hat,
is Solvang, a village that was looks like Sandra Bullock if she
founded in 1911 by a group were a Wine Enthusiast cover
A
of Danes who built a town model—pours me a taste of
ny self-respecting center straight out of a Hans
col lege tow n has Christian A ndersen stor y:
a hip coffee shop windmills, steep gabled roofs,
or t wo, a nd t he old-fashioned clocktowers.
home of Ca l Poly San Luis Just 10 more minutes on a
Obispo is no exception. I start quiet country road brings me
my mor n ing w it h a st rol l to Los Olivos, a small town
a r o u nd t he M i s s ion S a n that’s not only the nexus of
L u i s O b i s p o d e To l o s a , Santa Barbara wine country,
which was founded in 1772, but also the setting of one of
and over to Kreuzberg Cal- my favorite films. After park-
ifornia. Named for an artsy ing the car, I make a small
district in Berlin, the spa- persona l pilgrimage, wan-
This page, from top:
cious café is decorated with dering past the tasting rooms
Jessica Gasca at bold murals and portraits of on Gr a nd Ave n u e t o t he
Story of Soil; portraits
of artists at Kreuzberg
writers and artists. I order alley next to the Los Olivos
California; opposite a l at t e a nd a n a ç a í b owl Wine Merchant Café, where
page: Scandinavian-
style architecture
and sit under an image of I quietly mutter, “I am not
in Solvang Proust, preparing for all the drinking any f ****** merlot,”
74
her earthy Duvarita Vineyard yourself to somebody, you
Clockwise from above:
winemaker Greg Brewer;
pinot noir, and we sit in front
“The brilliant blue can sur render to t hat per-
Refugio State Beach;
shaved yellow beets of a chalk map of the Central Pacific is on my son, right? I surrender to this
at S.Y. Kitchen
Coast’s appellations and chat landscape. So the award wasn’t
about the land and the people
right, and I pull about me. It goes to everyone
who work it. off to get some who came before, everyone in
“At harvest, you wake up at the game now, those that will
the crack of dawn, get to the
sand between my come later—we all own that
vineyard, and a ll of a sud- toes at Refugio award, because I’m this place.”
den you’re in nat ure, with Lunch is in the Old West–
an incredible group of peo-
State Beach.” style town of Santa Ynez, at
ple t h at a r e wor k i n g t he S.Y. Kitchen, an acclaimed
land. It’s magical.” As both a Brewer, who la st year wa s restaurant run out of a ranch
Mexican American and the named winemaker of the year hou se by t he It a l ia n chef
president of the Santa Barbara by Wine Enthusiast. The honor brothers Luca and Francesco
Vintners Foundation, Gasca doesn’t seem to have gone to Crestanelli. I sit on the brick
makes a point to take care of his head: He’s dressed casually, patio, where I can smell the
those people. “We were able to in a black V-neck that reveals wood burning in the outdoor
bring mobile medical units arms tattooed with bamboo pizza oven. Duly inspired, I
into the vineyards and vac- and an octopus, and as we sip a order the special, a black truf-
cinate more than a thousand beautiful 2015 3D pinot noir in fle pizza that I would put up
workers. I feel like we forget his Japanese-inspired tasting against any pie in New York,
that we have wine to drink room, he describes the recog- along with a salad of yellow
only because of the people nition as being for the region, beets shaved paper-thin and
who work the land.” not himself. a spaghetti alle vongole burst-
Nex t, I wa l k a couple of “I’ve only worked in Santa ing with fresh clams. It’s way
block s to Brewer-Cli f ton, Barbara,” Brewer tells me. “It’s too much food—and I want
where I’m greeted by Greg like when you really commit seconds of all of it.
76
Discover
Beckmen Vineyards
Family owned and operated,
Beckmen Vineyards has been
This page, clockwise Feeling great about t hat Bacara, a 78-acre resort just signature massage, basically good everything is; 20 years
from above: Palihouse
detour, I head back to 101 and north of Isla Vista, where many consists of a therapist spend- “This feels like ago, there was nothing like this crafting critically acclaimed wines
Santa Barbara; the bar
at Venus in Furs; curries slalom toward the coast. The of my friends worked during ing 80 minutes using two hot the kind of place in Santa Barbara. since 1994. Visit our 40-acre working
at Bibi Ji; opposite page:
brilliant blue Pacif ic is on college. I take in the clifftop stones to grind me down to I’m a l mo s t t ap p e d out ,
Spanish Colonial Revival
buildings on State Street my right for this stretch, and view of the ocean and the off- Goldman dust—a very relaxed, Lou Reed might but there’s one other trendy
estate vineyard, and enjoy a curated
I pull off to get some sand shore oil rigs—Jim Morrison’s satisfied Goldman dust. have frequented newcomer that needs investi- tasting overlooking our vines.
between my toes at Refugio inspiration for “The Crystal As beautiful as the Bacara gating. Venus in Furs, opened
when he was in Open daily for wine tastings.
State Beach. Ship”—and then make for the is, tonight I’m staying down- last year by the owners of the
My next stop on Memory 42,000-square-foot spa. My town, at the Palihouse Santa the mood for best cocktail bar in the city, Reservations recommended.
L a ne i s The R it z- C a rlton c hoic e of t r e a t me n t , t he Barbara. The decor is quint- The Good Lion, is a different
essential Spanish Colonial something a kind of wine bar. The name is
2670 Ontiveros Road | Los Olivos, CA 93441
Revival: white stucco walls, little softer.” a Velvet Underground refer-
(805)688-8664 ext 201
arched door ways, ex posed ence, the soundtrack is new
wood beams, red clay roof wave rock, and the tasting www.beckmenvineyards.com
tiles. This style defines Santa purple-haired server, Alvaro, notes are more tong ue-in-
Barbara, in particular on the for some guidance. “The dal c he e k t h a n no s e -i n- g l a s s
main drag, State Street, which is my favorite,” he replies. “I (“silky as ur nonna’s nighty”).
owes its uniform appearance recommend dr in k ing t hat I sip a Stolpman syrah blend
to having been rebuilt after an t h roug h a st r aw.” I order w h i le c ont e mpl a t i n g t he
earthquake struck in 1925. that, along with mysore bonda Indian-st yle mura l of pea-
While the buildings may (p ot a t o -p e a f r it t e r s w it h c o c k s i n t he j u n g le t h a t
lo ok t he s a me a s whe n I okra raita) and halibut moilee ador n s t he back ba r. Th i s
l ived here, m a ny of t hem (lightly fried loca l ha libut feels like the kind of place Lou
now house hipper tenants, with curry sauce). I think I Reed might have frequented
such as the three-year-old, can’t possibly eat anymore, when he wa s i n t he mood
M ic he l i n-r e c om mende d until Alvaro delivers an order for something a little softer.
Indian restaurant Bibi Ji. I sit of uni, served on the spiny half Maybe I could say that about
on the back patio and ask my shell. I’m astonished by how all of downtown SB?
78
3
DAY I’m about to take a mode Being a mar iner is hard
of transportation that’s more work, and I think I’ve earned
dated t han t hat Bel A ir: a lunch. Upon docking, I drive
charter cruise with the Santa over to Milpas Street, long the
Barbara Sailing Center. I meet main drag for Santa Barbara’s
my skipper, Larry, at the har- Mexican community. A lot
bor, and he leads me out on the has changed in this town in
dock to the 42-foot Calafia. As recent years, but some things
the yacht pulls away from the have justif iably stayed the
marina, he tells me to take the same, including La Super-
wheel. “The person at the helm R ica Taquer ia . The sm a l l
is always the skipper,” he says. restaurant became famous
“Now aim for those kayakers for being Julia Child’s favorite
over there—we’ll scare the crap place in town, and that notori-
out of them.” ety resulted in an ever-present
I don’t ram any kayakers, line. I queue up outside, grum-
or the buoy occupied by bark- bling, but when I see an old
ing sea lions, but as we cruise woman in the kitchen shap-
to open water Larry dispenses ing fresh masa into tortillas,
wisdom about life at sea (“If I know it’ll be worth the wait. I
you have to fight the wheel, order the Super-Rica Especial,
you have too much sail out”) cheese-stuffed pasilla peppers
and on land (“I got on a plane served with marinated pork
to Santa Barbara in 1971, and and those tortillas. The food
I never looked back”). There’s is creamier t han standard
not much wind, so when we t aquer ia fa re—perh aps
cut the engine we mostly bob ex plaining why A mer ica’s
in place, looking back toward most fa mou s French chef
East Beach and the Santa Ynez loved it so. And who am I to
Mountains. In the back of my argue with Julia Child?
mind I hear Jimmy Buffett: Next, I’m off to an even more
Mother, mother ocean, I have venerable local landmark: the
heard you call… Old Mission Santa Bárbara.
► Setting sail from the
harbor and dining at
a pair of old favorites
I
want to keep last night’s
trendiness going, so I
st a r t my mor n i n g at
A le s s i a P at i s s e r ie +
Cafe. The bright space, which
opened in Ju ly, feels bot h
modern and classic, with its
display case of architectural
pastries and playlist of chan-
teusey jazz. As I sit by the
window, drinking a latte and
eating a fantastic chocolate
croissant, I watch a two-tone
This page: enjoying
a cruise with the
’50s Chevy Bel Air park across
Santa Barbara Sailing the street in front of the 1782
Center; opposite
page: the Old Mission
El Presidio de Santa Bárbara.
Santa Bárbara What century am I in, again?
80 81
The church has been through archways at an Anish Kapoor
Clockwise from above:
La Super-Rica Taqueria;
a few, a hem, resurrections
“When I see an s c u lp t u r e on t he s e c ond
the new contemporary
art gallery at the Santa since it was established in old woman in the f loor; t he wa l ls around us
Barbara Museum of Art;
1786 (two of them following are lined w it h ever y t hing
breakfast at Alessia
Patisserie + Cafe e a r t hq u a ke s i n 181 2 a nd
kitchen shaping f r om e a r l y-20 t h- c e n t u r y
1925). On t he sel f- g u ided masa into American paintings to pre-
tour, I soak up the histor y: Columbian pottery.
the 1808 Moorish fountain,
tortillas, I know “I k ind of li ke t he non-
t he l a v an d e r í a whe r e t he it’ll be worth h ierarch ica l a spect of t he
Chumash people did laundry, salon-style hang,” Kahng says,
the 130-year-old Moreton Bay
the wait.” “because you have a dialogue
fig tree in the cemetery, the between different cultures.”
A s for t he show-stoppi ng
pictures of the von Trapp fam- center piece? “When I f irst
ily visiting in the early 1950s. arrived 10 years ago, Hermes
Not quite as old is the Santa was almost at human level, but
Barbara Museum of Art. The the original would have been
80-year-old museum, which is elevated. It completely changes
mostly housed in a 1912 post your relationship to him. He’s
office building, fully reopened a god,” she adds, laughing, “so
i n Aug u st , fol low i ng a of course he should be looking
$50 million renovation. The down at you.”
mu seu m’s d i rec tor, L a r r y I feel like a god myself when
Feinberg, and deputy director I check into my hotel, t he
and chief curator, Eik Kahng, Rosewood Miramar Beach, a
meet me in the reimagined seaside estate in posh Mon-
ent r y way. St a nd ing below tecito, just east of downtown.
a 2nd-cent u r y C E Rom a n Then I hop a cab back to the
stat ue of Her mes, we look Funk Zone for happy hour.
up through a trio of restored Split by railroad tracks, this
82
This page: the
Rosewood Miramar
Beach; opposite
page: the patio at
La Paloma Café
S A N TA B A R B A R A ,
I N YO U R P O C K E T
Why not save all the
must-go places in this
Santa Barbara Three Perfect
Days to Urbaniser?
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The Santa Barbara venues
featured here have been
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download and keep forever
on the free Urbaniser app. formerly industrial district winemaker Lenny Germano, day has been spent visiting the end of the meal, Josh, who
Just scan our QR code.
at the bottom of State Street is a New Jerseyite gone native, SB classics, and La Paloma
“Much of my loved the previous incarnation
replete with graffiti murals, p o u r s me a t e mpr a n i l lo. Café is the one closest to my day has been of this place even more than
hip restaurants, and, natu- “When I nabbed this spot, it hea r t . It f ir st opened a s a I did, matter-of-factly says, “I
rally, an urban wine trail. I was a dark little hole,” he says. Mexican restaurant in 1940—
spent visiting do not miss the Paradise.”
start with a glass of pinot noir “I’ve really watched this area w it ness t he A z tec-t hemed SB classics, and As we all hop in a car and
at the grandest of the tast- change in the last five years. mura l above t he ba r—a nd head back to the Rosewood
ing rooms, Margerum Wine The city gets it—they like the later beca me t he Pa rad ise
La Paloma Café for a nightcap, I feel myself
Company, which is attached funkiness of it.” Café. I loved the Paradise and is the one closest getting a little misty. I spent
to the swank Hotel Califor- I’ve been enjoying the wine was devastated when it closed some of the best years of my
nian, and then pop a block so much t hat I rea lize I’m last year, but I was heartened
to my heart.” life here, with these people,
ove r t o t he mor e u nd e r- about to be late for my din- when Acme Hospitality, the and while neither the city nor
t he-rad a r Sk yenna , where ner reservation. Much of my owners of my other favorite restaurant in town, The Lark, my friends have remained the
broug ht it back u nder it s same, we’ve grown up and—
original name. dare I say—become cooler. As
W H E R E T O S TAY I’ve been looking forward we sit on the hotel veranda,
to this meal all weekend, and look i ng at t he l ig ht f rom
Hotel San Luis Obispo Palihouse Rosewood The Landsby making it even more special inside glinting off the pool,
Santa Barbara Miramar Beach is that my three college room- I hear a train whistle. A sin-
Opened in 2019, this 78-room- Want to spend the night in mates, Matt, Josh, and Rob, gle track r uns through the
and-suite hotel offers the This 24-room residential-style Set along one of the Central the Santa Ynez Valley to are joining for an impromptu property, and as the boxcars
sleekest lodgings in SLO, but hotel from Los Angeles–based Coast’s loveliest stretches of maximize your tasting time? reunion. We sit on the ter- pass by, due south, I wonder
it hasn’t forgotten its roots: Palisociety opened in sand, the Rosewood evokes Stay at this 51-room hotel raced patio and get to work on where we’re all headed. One
Designers incorporated a March in a building that was the mansions of its tony in the heart of Solvang. a pitcher of the eponymous thing I don’t wonder, though,
number of elements to honor once the Santa Barbara School neighborhood, Montecito, with While the design has a hint cock t a i l (tequ i l a , Aperol, is where I feel most at home.
the site, in what was once of the Arts. Sip a house white its central Manor House. The of Scandinavian flavor, lime, agave, grapefruit) before
Chinatown, including a sangria in the central courtyard, 136 rooms and suites are spread the architectural lines are goi n g nut s on t he menu :
vintage “Chop Suey” sign. which is lined with bougainvillea across 16 manicured acres, and cleaner and more contemporary raw Kumai oysters, grilled Fly to the American Riviera in
Take in views of the city and climbing vines, lounge the property also boasts über- than at some of the town’s artichoke, vegetable pozole, One Stop or Less: Santa Barbara
from the rooftop High Bar, by your room’s gas fireplace, high-end retail (including a shop traditional inns. Enjoy the c e v ic he m ade f r om lo c a l is only a nonstop flight away
and don’t miss a meal at the or get out on the town: The curated by James Perse) and wine-country cuisine at f ish, slow-cooked pinquito from Chicago O’Hare, Denver,
Michelin-approved modern property is just three blocks dining (try the ceviche at The Mad & Vin, then relax by the beans, smoky Santa Maria– Los Angeles, and San Francisco.
steakhouse Ox + Anchor. from bustling State Street. Revere Room). From $1,995, firepits in the courtyard. st yle wag y u tr i-tip, tender Book your trip on united.com or
From $350, hotel-slo.com From $395, palisociety.com rosewoodhotels.com From $229, thelandsby.com pork-shoulder carnitas. At the United app.
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