Bikepacking in Eritrea - Where the bicycle is religion
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Bikepacking in Eritrea Where the bicycle is religion by Gregor Mahringer (Photos by Thilo Brunner and Gregor Mahringer)
cities in a large circle. We’ll ride our gravel our relief, our route has their blessing, and we Top: Bike repair in
bikes with bikepacking equipment. celebrate with a very palatable Asmara beer. Asmara. Every village
has a shop, so basic
Traveling to Asmara is no problem. Howev- The three of them then tell us how cycling
repairs are no problem.
er, for all other Eritrean cities, we’ll need travel came to Eritrea, and why people are so enthu-
permits from the Ministry of Tourism. Will siastic about the sport. As early as 1889, the Middle: Every morning,
the streets around the
it be possible to obtain permits for a bicycle Italian colonialists brought bicycles to Eritrea
capital are full of young
trip? Reports about long processing times and as postal vehicles. In 1937, the first race was cyclists. Their dream is
arbitrary allocation worry us. held in Asmara, at first only for Italian riders. to become professional
Via Instagram I contact locals in Asmara. Two years later, Eritreans were also allowed to and be able to leave
A few weeks later Metkel, a professional take part. The victory of Ghebremariam the country legally.
cyclist, answers: “Ohhhhh that’s good. All riders Ghebru shocked the arrogant colonialists and Bottom: Gasoline,
are welcome. We can help u. Don’t worry just tell filled the Eritreans with incredible pride. In the cars and even buses
me when u ready to go.” It’s promising to have a following years, cycling became almost a substi- are not affordable for
contact in the country! tute for religion. To the present day, races are most Eritreans. But
that doesn’t keep them
But I also know that we cannot rely solely organized in Asmara almost every weekend.
from dreaming.
on the help of locals, however enthusiastic they “We just have cycling in our blood,” says
may be. For the next two weeks, I spend every Merone. Then they have to go. A message
free minute with Google Earth satellite images, from the coach of their Malaysian team just
old Russian maps, and GPS tracks to prepare came in: For tomorrow, hard interval training
every imaginable variant of our trip. is on the program.
Four weeks later, we fly first to Cairo and
then on to Asmara. Considering that we are
traveling to what is supposed to be the ‘North
Taking a taxi from the
Asmara airport: Three
bikes fit on the roof,
A fter several bike trips to Iran, I was look-
ing for an experience that would turn
my view of the world upside down in a similar
Korea of Africa,’ the arrival and entry into
Eritrea is smooth. In Asmara, we go directly to
the Ministry of Tourism. We’re pretty excited.
one in the trunk, and
the riders and luggage way. Then a report about Asmara, the capital This is where the fate of our trip is decided.
go inside. of Eritrea, fell into my hands. The photos Our experience is the opposite of what we
showed an incredibly beautiful and clean expect: a friendly smile instead of suspicious
city with relaxed people. This did not fit my questions. A few hours later, we have all travel
picture of an isolated country with a troubled permits for our desired route. What a relief!
past and present. Perhaps the recent peace treaty with Ethiopia
Above all, the many bicycles on the streets will finally allow tourism to develop here.
aroused my interest. I continued my research For the next two days, we explore the capi-
and came across the Giro d’Eritrea, a bike race tal and get used to the 2,300 meter (7,600 ft)
steeped in history that started during the days elevation. Cafés and restaurants line wide
of the Italian colonial occupation. The reports boulevards with palm trees. There are few cars,
about the race all agree: Nowhere else in Africa but all the more bicycles. The Italian colonial
are bicycles so ubiquitous. Nowhere else is the rule, as terrible as it was, has left an indelible
enthusiasm for cycling so great as in this small impression on the culture: We enjoy an excel-
northeast African country on the Red Sea. So lent espresso and perfect pasta, and we marvel
that’s where I will go! at a modernistic architecture that is unique in
In June 2018, happy news comes from Africa. This has even put Asmara on the list of
Eritrea: Eighteen years after the end of the world heritage sites.
war, there is finally a peace treaty with Ethio- For dinner, we meet with our Instagram
pia. The conditions for my journey seem ideal. contact Metkel. He brings with him Meron,
Despite great concerns of family and friends, also an international cycling professional, and
three adventurous riders agree to join me: Thomas, who guides tourists through Eritrea.
Toni, Luigi and Thilo. The rough plan: Start in Together we go through our planned route to
Asmara and then connect the country’s larger clear up our last questions and concerns. To
8 B I C Y C L E Q U A R T E R LY
As we leave, they present us with a very spe- Above: All packed and
cial gift: a local SIM card. This is the only way ready to go! Gravel
bikes with bikepacking
to use your mobile phone in Eritrea, and it’s not
equipment worked
available for tourists. A new feeling of security well in Eritrea.
overcomes us and gives a huge boost to our mo-
Left: Bicycle-loving kids
tivation. Our new friends promise to contact us
in front of a bike shop
every evening to check if everything is going well. in Asmara.
The next morning, we start. We are about
Opposite: The author,
90 km (55 miles) from Keren, the second larg-
Gregor, and local
est city in Eritrea that is famous for its camel cycling pro Metkel
market. As we leave Asmara, we see countless Eyob first met on
young cyclists on their morning training rides. Instagram.
We are surprised how popular the sport is here! of the population suffers from a harsh national
We think of our conversation with Met- service that can last up to 20 years. No one is
kel and Merone: The bicycle as a symbol of legally entitled to take leave from this. This
national pride. In addition, the ideal training potential way to freedom may be another rea-
conditions almost year-round help explain the son why Eritrea has produced some of the best
local passion for cycling. But what they didn’t racing cyclists in the world in recent years.
mention: For successful cyclists, it’s possible to The further we go, the more the landscape
leave the country legally. In contrast, the rest meets our mental image of Africa: thatched
SUMMER 2019 11
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