A FRESH LOOK AT CLEAN BEAUTY - A PSFK Research Paper
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A FRESH LOOK
AT CLEAN BEAUTY
A PSFK Research Paper42 Bond St, 6th Fl, NYC
(646) 520-4672 | psfk.com
RESEARCH PAPER OVERVIEW
This research paper explores how cosmetic and beauty retailers are repurposing and highlighting
the use of natural ingredients within their skincare offerings. Brands are creating cosmetic
offerings that appeal to increasingly health and environmentally-conscious beauty fans. Although
the beauty industry has traditionally relied on expected formula for its product offerings, shifting
consumer behaviors are mandating new cosmetic ingredients, benefits and products.
Industry Shifts
By 2020, full ingredient transparency is the objective for beauty, personal care, baby care and
household items even for fragrance, the compounds in which the federal government doesn’t
require be disclosed.
“Target Boosts Selection of Natural Beauty Products.” WWD, 2017
“One reason the biggest brands are getting in the game is that an ever-growing list of
mega-retailers like Nordstrom, Neiman Marcus, Sephora, and Target have begun carrying natural
options, as the demand from consumers has risen. For starters, big companies such as Procter &
Gamble and Estée Lauder have acquired or invested in cool, clean brands, knowing their giant
manufacturing processes can’t just take out a few parabens and call it a day. Other companies,
namely Unilever, have started completely from scratch, creating their own new skin-care and
hair-care lines, with even more to come in the new year.”
“The Skin-care Sea Change: Inside Big Beauty’s Massive Move To Non-toxic And Natural
Products.” Well + Good, 2017
Industry News
“Mega beauty corporation Procter & Gamble announced that they’re going to be transparent
about what’s truly in their fragrances by the end of 2019 —which is a huge move considering
‘fragrance’ is an umbrella term that can include a myriad of chemicals, which are not legally
required to be disclosed.”
“P&G Has Acquired Cult-fave Deodorant Brand Native.” Well + Good, 2017
“Nordstrom just announced that this month it will open ‘natural beauty outposts’ in 46 of its
brick-and-mortar stores...This means part of the beauty floor will be devoted to so-called natural
brands, which Nordstrom is loosely defining as not containing parabens, sulfates, or phthalates.
There is also a separate menu for natural beauty on the retailer’s website.”
“Nordstrom Is Betting On Natural Beauty.” Racked, 2017
“Target has expanded its natural beauty selection, thanks to a double-digit percentage lift in
sales last year. By 2020, Target is banning phthalates, propylparaben, butylparaben,
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formaldehyde, formaldehyde donors and nonylphenol ethoxylates from beauty, personal care,
baby care and household product formulations.”
“Target Boosts Selection of Natural Beauty Products.” WWD, 2017
“Unilever recently acquired Schmidt’s Naturals for its millennial-friendly natural deodorants, and
now the Portland-based startup is taking on another bathroom shelf staple: Toothpaste.
“This Natural Toothpaste Comes In Charcoal And Coconut Flavors. Can It Take On Colgate?”
Fast Company, 2018
“CVS Pharmacy announced in a press release that it would remove chemicals like parabens,
phthalates and specific formaldehyde donors – compounds that release formaldehyde as it
decomposes in products – in approximately 600 beauty and personal care products.”
“Health Buzz: CVS Is Taking Chemicals Out of Its Makeup.” U.S. News, 2017
Sephora has sold botanical, chemical-free cosmetics for years and now offers a “Naturals”
landing page showcasing hundreds of items.
sephora.com/natural
Stats + Quotes
“Consumers have always had a really unique relationship with beauty. They want the value
proposition to be true. We’re now living in a consumer renaissance where consumers have
infinite options. They expect the product to be wonderful, the branding to be fantastic and the
brands to be accessible. They also expect the ingredients now to be more thoughtful,
conscientious and natural.”
PSFK Interview: Birchbox Co-founder and CEO Katia Beauchamp
“A sharp consumer demand for products vouching chemical-free ingredients, with 51% of
households considering ‘natural’ an important aspect. Data shows that personal care products
with a natural label claim grew 9.1% in 2017 from the previous year, despite only driving 3% of
total sales when compared to conventional products.”
“This Natural Toothpaste Comes In Charcoal And Coconut Flavors. Can It Take On Colgate?”
Fast Company, 2018
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Food Additives
Cosmetic brands are repurposing food and other edible ingredients within skincare and cosmetic
products, surprising customers with unconventional creations while capitalizing on untapped
benefits.
Le Prunier
Le Prunier Plum Beauty Oil is a patent-pending blend of plum varietals from a
100-year-old California family farm, the world's largest grower and producer of organic
plums. From start to finish, Le Prunier maintains the highest ingredient authenticity and
quality since everything is grown, harvested, cold-pressed and produced directly on the
farm. The products are free of sulfates, fragrance, or chemicals; it's certified vegan; and it
doesn't clog facial pores.
leprunier.com
ZEAL’s Adsorb
Japan-based ZEAL Cosmetics created a skincare brand called Adsorb that uses antibody
technology to extract ostrich egg yolks, which contain a high percentage of antibodies.
Without harming the Ostrich, the yolks are processed to reveal the antibodies and put into
the products to help serve as a defense mechanism for the skin. This proprietary
technology provides a multi-faceted treatment to help fight and reverse the visible signs
of skin aging. Adsorb Beauty is the first brand in the world that has combined the refined
Ostrich egg yolk extract with potent peptides and clinically proven hydrators to create a
unique anti-aging treatment.
adsorbbeauty.com
FRUU
U.K. startup FRUU makes natural cosmetics using ingredients derived from fruit
by-products, turning potentially unused materials into fruit-based skin products. Through
its commitment to recycling fruit waste and creating zero waste in the process, FRUU
purchases the fruit waste from farmers, who get an extra source of income from the
exchange. Its lip balm collection is made from more than 15 types of organic fruits and is
composed of 70% fruit-based ingredients. The balms are made to order, so FRUU also
avoids having unwanted stock go to waste.
psfk.com/FRUU
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Plant-Based Solutions
Beauty manufacturers are leaning on plant-based and vegan ingredients, rather than
conventional synthetics and chemicals, for natural products that appeal to an increasingly
health-conscious consumer base yearning for ingredient simplicity.
Cannabliss Organics
Cannabliss Organic skincare is made with naturally rich hemp oil to provide numerous
healing benefits. The full spectrum hemp oil is grown organically in Colorado and has
been shown to work wonders on dry skin, acne, wrinkles, scars, sunspots, eczema, and
psoriasis. Chemists start with an organic natural carrier oil as a base, and then add
powerful hemp and essential oils for the perfect formulation. The nourishing formulas are
also infused with ancient Korean herbs like Mulberry Bark and Panax Ginseng to enhance
the effectiveness of our products and breathe new life into your skin.
bit.ly/2H0b9LQ
Cult Beauty
Cult Beauty has partnered with MGC Derma's cannabidiol skincare products to become
the major international retailer’s first cannabis-based cosmetic line. The skincare and
anti-aging products are formulated with high-purity Cannabidiol (CBD) and natural active
ingredients to cleanse and hydrate skin, and protect against wrinkles and ageing. Cult
Beauty is also set to launch the US-based label, Marley Natural.
cultbeauty.co.uk
Snow Fox
Beauty brand Snow Fox is a 100% plant-based, professional grade skincare line that was
originally designed for hypersensitive skin types. The formula was created especially for
issues such as redness, environmental irritation, oily T zones, dry patches,
hyper-pigmentation and clogged pores. While it was initially formulated for hypersensitive,
troubled skin, consumer trials have shown amazing efficacy on all skin types, and the
skincare line is also cruelty free.
snowfoxskincare.com
L'Oréal
Cosmetics company L'Oréal created a vegan hair dye called Source, for plant-based hair
colouring. Until now, the company’s researchers have struggled to come up with
alternatives to hair dyes that could eliminate ammonia and other chemicals while still
delivering a professional result.
bit.ly/2FXnO0L
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Sustainable Cosmetics
Beauty companies are creating organic products that minimize the carbon footprint of traditional
manufacturing methods, appealing to both environmental advocates and health-conscious
consumers.
The Organic Skin Company
The Organic Skin Company is a skincare company that uses organic and natural
ingredients to make its products, with a strong commitment to planet Earth. The products
are BioGro, cruelty-free, and vegan certified, and many of the ingredients are sourced
from farms in India, where organic farms have helped revitalize rural villages. Additionally,
for every product purchased, The Organic Skin Company plants one tree to combat
deforestation.
theorganicskinco.com
KINN
London-based KINN is a plant-based organic lifestyle brand that sells skincare and
cleaning products that are Soil Association COSMOS certified organic, eco-friendly,
non-toxic and vegan. Based on heritage aromatherapy-based family recipes, Kinn’s
product are kind to skin and naturally effective. The company’s packaging is also fully
recyclable, sustainable, and all fully-traceable, ethically-sourced and made in Britain.
kinnstudio.com
ZAK IK
ZAK IK is an alluring and lush naturally-inspired artistic boutique. Located in Tulum,
Mexico, the ZAK IK Boutique is a space dedicated to local artists, designers and creators
who celebrate traditional and innovative craftsmanship through their work. The stunning
interior design is organic and artistic, utilising natural elements like wood, plants and
stone. The store’s theme promotes sustainable practices, eco-friendly items and the local
culture, making this a hub artistic endeavours as well as retail.
bit.ly/2G2ptlT
Lush
UK-based cosmetics retailer Lush partnered with The Ocean Legacy Foundation, an
organization that collects plastic wastes from the Pacific Ocean, to start reusing ocean
plastic in its packaging. Lush incorporates the recovered plastic into its black and clear
bottles, combining it with consumer-grade plastic materials. This combination makes the
packaging entirely recycled, although not all of it comes from the ocean. Products sold in
the packaging include the Plum Rain Shower Gel, Whoosh Shower Jelly, Dirty Springwash
Shower Gel and Charity Pot Lotion. In the future, Lush plans to expand the recycled
plastic into other product containers and have the bottles contain more ocean plastics
than consumer-grade material.
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psfk.com/cosmetics-plastic
DIY Apothecary
DIY-focused brands help customers make their own bespoke products while facilitating
ingredients and expertise—celebrating individual creativity while committing to product
transparency and maintaining effective results.
Follain
Follain is an ecommerce beauty product supplier platform that sells natural beauty brands
once it tests and approves the products to ensure they deliver on their promises. Follain is
very selective about picking brands—it only stocks 57 of them, and only a couple of each
brand’s products. Online customers can take a quiz on the Follain website to receive a
personalized skincare routine and customized recommendations. The site also seeks to
education consumers about product information, as well as the important of naturall,
organic ingredients.
Follain.com
LOLI Beauty
Monthly subscription service LOLI Beauty communicates product transparency by
stripping their cosmetics down to natural ingredients and educating consumers on how to
blend the ingredients on their own, at home. Each monthly LOLI Beauty kit contains
natural ingredients and recipes with a different focus: face, body, hair or bath. LOLI, which
stands for Living, Organic, Loving Ingredients, focuses on naturally-sourced, seasonal
compounds and introduces subscribers to new and exotic ingredients when they are
available.
lolibeauty.com
Ktchn Apothecary
Skin care brand Ktchn Apothecary ensures potency by instructing customers to mix the
products’ active ingredients at home. The delivered DIY kit includes precise
measurements of pure ingredients such as aloe, essential oils and natural beeswax. The
kit offers three clear instructions for mixing (pour, heat, stir) to create a solution in ten
minutes. Ktchn Apotehcary’s at-home process allows for a more potent product that
doesn’t need the dilution or chemicals that keep other moisturizers shelf-stable.
ktchnapothecary.com
Oleum Vera
DIY beauty brand Oleum Vera connects fans with raw beauty ingredients and multiple
recipes to create their own custom products. Oleum Vera kits contain an assortment of
essential oils, natural products and creation accessories, as well as a recipe book that
highlights different ways to mix ingredients to create 8-10 products per kit. By providing
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raw ingredients and education, Oleum Vera offers customers the knowledge to
re-appropriate their body care routine and tailor it to meet their unique needs.
oleumvera.com
Brandless
Brandless is offering a DIY beauty bundle that includes six product ingredients for
homemade moisturizers, scrubs and more. The antioxidants found in olive oil make it a
great moisturizer for hair, skin, and nails. Coconut oil can be used for cleaning makeup
brushes or moisturizing dry skin, and brown sugar is a natural exfoliant that can be mixed
with oil to act as a scrub. Adding organic agave nectar to a homemade beauty mask help
moisturize skin, and apple cider vinegar can be used as a skin toner and soother when
diluted with water, since it’s highly acidic. Lastly, mixing steel cut oats with honey and
olive oil can be used as a gentle, moisturizing face scrub.
brandless.com/beauty
Cyclical Care
Cosmetic brands are looking to women’s monthly periods for specifically targeted products that
help their skin and other physical changes adapt to hormonal cycles.
Amareta
Natural-skincare startup Amareta creates products that compliment the cyclical hormonal
changes women experience in the form of facial cleansers, moisturizers, oils and masks.
The products and are clean and plant-based, and mild yet effective, providing skin with
the appropriate nutrients for each hormonal related skin condition, and creating healthy
skin environment for it to restore itself. Since all women go through hormonal phases
throughout their 28-day cycle, and life as a whole, Amareta aims to address everything
from greasy and acne-prone skin to dry, dull and normal skin that occurs as a result.
bit.ly/2G1HTDm
C'est Moi
C'est Moi (or "It's Me") is a clean beauty brand that sells skincare and cosmetics products
suited for younger skin types, focusing on safe products for delicate skin. The clean,
fragrance-free formulas are created to gently cleanse, balance moisture and protect skin,
and includes education for each consumer to learn how to properly treat and take care of
their skin with their own regimen.
bit.ly/2G1gDok
Freda
UK-based Freda is an organic, eco-friendly feminine care line that uses artificial
intelligence to determine the right time for each customer’s box to be delivered, ensuring
customers receive products at time of their period. Customers can choose from the starter
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box, teen box or create their own custom box, choosing from offerings such as tampons,
pads and pantyliners.
bit.ly/2G3ghOd
Sustain
Sexual wellness brand Sustain offers a range of 100% cotton pads, liners and tampons,
along with a bimonthly subscription box that allows women to mix and match period
products. Sustain’s products are organic, vegan, fair trade and sustainably made, and the
company also donates 10% of its profits to the 20 million women in the U.S. who lack
access to women’s health services.
sustainnatural.com
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Published February 9, 2018
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